Jump to content

Donald Babcock

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    178
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Donald Babcock

  1. Nice find. 122 pounds is a good size as you can move it around easily enough as you figure out how your shop should be set up.
  2. Unless there are cracks or delamination that is a steal for that price. Might just be that the seller doesn't know what he has. Personnaly if that is the case then I would inform the seller of this and see if they wanted a more accurate price for what it is worth. Kinda the "due unto others" philosiphy. I know that if I was selling something for way under what it should sell for (because I didn't know what it should be worth) I would want to know. And based on the buyers honesty I would keep the original asking price.
  3. Not sure on the maker, but 100 lbs would be a low estamate on the weight based on the apperant size from the picture. Unless my eyes are lying to me that looks close in size to one that I've worked on at a living history place and that one weighs in at almost 200 pounds. Check on it and see if it has the weight markings on it. It will be 3 numbers, something like 1 1 15. The first marking is the "hundred weight" which is 112 pounds, the next number is quarter hundred weight or 28 pounds, then the third number is the odd weight (what ever is left over that is less then the quarter hundred weight). So for the markings in my example it would be 112+28+15 = 155 pounds. I'm not sure how much the price is but from what I've seen while looking in my area is that an anvil will run around $1-$3 per pound based on condition.
  4. Doug, you just broke my brain! Not really sure what all that means. But let me take a stab at it. The end design will have 4 wheels (for the flat platten attachement) with the motor spindle directly connected to the 4 inch drive wheel. Then there will be a 3.5 inch tracking/tension wheel, and two 2 inch idler wheels in the platen. Now with your explanation above it sounds like the motor and the grinder are not directly connected (thinking like a step pulley setup connecting the two drive shafts). In my case the main change would be the half size drive wheel (going from 8 inches to 4 inches) so this would take the belt speed from 3600 feet per minute to 1800 feet per second. Is that correct or do I need to also factor in the other wheels as well?
  5. Ok, first thing is first. I'm trying to figure some basics out before getting to deep into the planning phases. The main thing I need help with is as follows (per the manual): The motor speed is 1725 rpm,arbor size 5/8 inch with a speed of 1750 rpm, and it comes standard with an 8 inch contact/drive wheel, which gives a belt speed of 3600 feet per minute. I'm completly stumped on how to figure out what the belt speed would be with swapping out the 8 inch drive wheel with a standard 4 inch drive wheel. Would the speed be faster or slower with the smaller wheel? And if anybody knows how to figure out what the speed would be that would be great as well. Any help would be appreciated.
  6. I remember watching that show on tv with my wife. Ater about 15-20 minutes of not saying anything (just sitting there stewing) I paused the tv and had to walk away. My wife asked me why I paused it and I stated that it was utter crap. After about 5 minutes I sat back down and watched the rest of it and just couldn't help but laugh that this was being passed of as fact.
  7. Yup, lived in maine my whole life (so far). Man, those are some ugly photos. Gotta get the updated pics up to show the work that I did after I posted this. Looks better, but still haven't finished it yet.
  8. WOW, 138 views and not one comment. I take that to mean that everyone that has seen these has been speechless. On a serious note, I did kinda expect at least something for comments. Any comments/critisisms are encouraged. I can't fix things that I'm doing if I don't get corrective feedback. I know some one must have an opinion on them either good, bad, or indifferant.
  9. Very nice as always. Very nice indeed.
  10. This is a drop point with red/black dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  11. This is a drop point with red/black/tan dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  12. This is a clip point with blue/silver dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  13. This is a clip point with brown/black/tan dymondwood handle. Made from 1080, 3/16 thick at spine, 1 1/4 wide, whith brass pins and kydex sheath w/intergral belt loop. Price is $75.00.
  14. Here is my latest 4 knives. Still doing stock removal as I don't have anyplace for my forge yet. 2 clip points and 2 drop points. All with kydex sheaths. Each measures roughly 8 inches OAL, 3 3/4 to 4 inches of blade. Each done from 1080. 3/16 inch at spine and 2/16th inch at tip for drop points and 1/16th at tip for clip points. Triple normalized with decreasing heats (1400, 1350, and finally 1300). Brought to 1450 and quenched in 100 degree corn oil. Tempered for 3 hours at 475. Handles are dymondwood, pins are brass. Any comments are welcome. I'll be posting these in the for sale section soon.
  15. Thanks. Didn't know that it was a stabilized product already. Cuts down on my finishing time then.
  16. I've only recently started using this for handle material and need to figure out how to finish it.
  17. Especially when you are doing 8 blades all in one night. This is a big step up for me as I've never done more then 2 in a given week. Having successfully heat treated 8 knives in a row without warping or cracking has definetly upped my confidence level, but I still get nervous doing it.
  18. As already stated Twinkle and Iceingdeath (Drizzt's swords) would be at the top of my list. Although not a blade Aegis-fang (Wulfgar's hammer) would be great to see in real life. Breunor's axe although simple by description would help round out the set.
  19. Thanks for the reply guys. It was the answers that I expected. I'm gonna give Sheffields another try tomorrow and see if I can actually get in touch with someone. I really like their selection. I'll reserve final judgement based on quality (once i get it) and customer service.
  20. Does anybody know of a supplier that is a good one stop shop for bar stock, handle material, kydex, leather, brass/copper, paracord, abrassive belts (blaze series)... In the past I've gotten my bar stock from Admiral Steel. They have a great selection of stock (sizes and types) but shipping is insane and the quality of my last couple orders was a bit less then expected. Bars were warped/bent pretty bad when I opened the package and even pieces from them same bar acted differently when anealing/harding/tempering. I've checked out places like USA Knife Supply, Jantz Supply, Pop's... and they have a little bit of everything but a very limited selection of each. Additionally the bar stock prices seem very high compared to Admiral Steel. I've recently found and looked through Sheffields catalog and they seem to have a great selection of everything except the grinder belts. however, their office hours are limited and can't order online. I've tried for the past several days to get someone to answer the phone to place an order, but haven't had any luck yet.
  21. Here is what I spent my fathers day doing. Spent all day in the shop. My aim was for a kinda "forged finish" look, but without a forge. This first picture is to give an idea of how things started. Steel is from a set of old leaf springs. Last night I cut off a section 10.5 inches by 2.5 inches. I got it up to a working tempurature and straightened in, then back in for an over night cooling to annealed it in my kiln. This morning I cut it in half so 10.5 x 1.25. It is 5/16th inch thick when i first started. So definetly on the big side. This shows a better view of the preform before I started shaping. I did all the profiling with an angle grinder and draw filing. Only used the belt grinder to smooth things up quickly before going in the kiln for normalizations and heat treat. 3 normalizations (1450,1400, 1350) then a 10 minute soak at 1500. Quechned in 120 degree corn oil. Tempered at 500 degress for 1 hour (2 times). Then back to the belt grinder for finishing. Here are some more pictures. This has a temporary cord wrap handle just for practice. Going to be getting some parachute cord. This was wrapped with some scrap "Mule Tape" that I had lying around. This is the first time working with 5160 and I gotta say it is some rugged steel. Grinds pretty easy with a angle grinder, not so much with a belt grinder. Any thoughts or critiques are welcome. This is also my first time doing this style. This is based off of the raw dog line that Jason Taylor does. I know I have a long way to go before they look like his, but for a first and also being done in just one day I am proud of it.
  22. Once I find the camera I'll be taking some pics of the two that survived. I tried straightening the warped one, but I noticed that at the high points of each "wave" there was a crack going up about 1/4 inch from the edge. So I broke it in a few places. I'll be getting some pics of the grain on that one. Still have to finish polishing them, put the handles on, pin them, and sharpen.
  23. Thanks Alan. I realize now that I got confused on my steps. I did the procedure for the 5160 (old leaf springs got the bolt out but still need to cut them down to workable size) that I have. I remember now from other posts I read about not soaking the 1095. Just wait for even heat. I looked at things more on the warped one and didn't really notice any uneveness in the grinds from side to side, but the edge was very thin compared to the two that didn't warp. I remember messing up on the bevels on the warpped one and had to grind off more steel to fix the problem. I think I just went to thin.
  24. Typo on the water temp. Straight hot water from the tap. max temp 135 from the tap. then it sat in the bucket with a lid on it for about 30 minutes while doing the last normalization cycle.
  25. Steel is 1095. 3X normalization (step down of 1450, 1400, 1350). 10 Minute soak at 1500. Water quenched (water 175ish). I normally use peanut oil, but things got moved since my last heat treat and couldn't find it anymore. Looked for almost 3 hours. Turned the house pretty much upside down looking for it. I'll be posting some pics latter today or tomorrow as they are in the oven backing for 2 hours at 475. My question is what is the best way to get rid of warping? It warped the on the first quench. Put it back in and hammered it straight. Renormalized 3X as above and 10 minute soak at 1500 again. Quenched and got more warping this time. It was a straight down quench, tip first. Got like a wavey warping action on the edge from the half way point to the plunge line. Figured I'd just temper it and see how much I could straighten it afterwards. Any suggestions would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...