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Brenno

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About Brenno

  • Birthday 10/06/1976

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  • Website URL
    http://www.fableblades.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Western Australia
  1. Yep, we are creators. We can do anything we put our minds to I think if you can drill it straight could be your best bet. Either parallel holes and file, or maybe use a milling machine to slot out the shoulder end for the bulk of the tang, then run a rod to the peen, hmm you'll figure it out. Keep us posted with what you come up with.
  2. G'day Folks! Long time no post Jared thats a beautiful Aesthetic and best of luck creating it. Casting bronze can be very tricky. I havent done it but discoursed extensively about it with my colleague Jeffrey Robinson regarding the projects we collaborate on. Firstly when investment casting bronze there is shrinkage of usually 2 to 3% to account for when sculpting the waxes. The slot through the grip can be very tricky. I would recommend casting your piece in maybe three separate pieces, the fore guard, the aft guard, and teh grip, to minimise the length of the slot and to manage your warping. You can TIG weld the bronze parts together if you like. There is also a lot of warpage encountered in slots. Even a 3 or 4 cm slot will often warp, but that would be easier to correct with files. There is a special ceramic compound for cores which can help you minimise this warping of the slot, but it is very expensive and seems to be sold in bulk lots. The normal slurry is likely to break through such a long core. You can try to cast in a blank tang. But it will have to be perfectly tapered over both dimensions for any hope of removing from the finished casting. They get mega tight after the bronze shrinks onto it in cooling. And hammering on the blank will mushroom it and negate it's removal again. Yep long slots in bronze casting is a major drama I wonder if you would like to forge the fore and aft guards in steel, and make the grip out of wood with metal or bone spacers. Cheers Brendan Olszowy
  3. Thats a simply beautiful piece. And much respect for posting some inside views on how you work. Cheers!
  4. Thats fantastic, and beautiful. I don't know how you did that, but the months and many broken bits must be a clue. I can imagine that done in wax and cast, but to put it straight ino steel is something else all together. This is one of those pieces that I just know I won't forget.
  5. I have read that technique mentioned a couple of times here. I will try it for my self, and video the destruction for toughness comparison. I can't get good grain pics but will let you know what I find. Next time I will make mock blades shapes for the test, and temper it at 250C instead. I've been recommended that if I cant snap them I can notch them with a dremel wheel. Cheers PS gosh I love my new kiln :)
  6. Thanks Doug. I have been recommended 450F before, which I've read should give around 58Rc. But I'm not making knives. I make swords usually, and I'd rather have them bend than snap, for safety reasons, in case any mistakes are to be made in handling. So at 660F I'm aiming for 52-53Rc hopefully - even 50 would be fine. I may still conduct some tempering experiments on some mock up blades, to see where they snap. Hi Bruce - Well I know 870C works, without noticable grain growth or loss of durability. I might do somem further tests at temperatures between 820 and 870, and also vary soak times. I'll use skinnier pieces next time so I can hope to break them.
  7. Hey my friends. Thanks to all for the advice in previous threads on how to approach my heat treating with my newly built kiln. I thought you might enjoy my test results. Feel free to offer further suggestions too. I skirted the suggested triple quench for this round, but this is what I did do, and I got some progress: I had three flat bar offcut samples. 6mm (1/4") thick. 20mm (3/4") wide. And about 200mm (8") long. I was unsure if I would be able to snap them so I also included a knife which I forged a few months ago, but didn't like. It was only 2.5mm thick at the blade. Procedure: First I normalised all pieces thrice at 820C. I then took piece number 1: Soaked it for 10 minutes at 800C (1472F). Austentite starts at 790C (1450F) for 9260 I've been told. Then quenched in 3 lites of vegie oil. I then took piece number 2: Soaked for 20 minutes at 820C (1508F) Quenched in a different 3 litres of vegie oil. I then took piece number 3 and the knife blade. Soaked for 10 minutes at 870C (1600F). 870C being the suggested quench temp from the previous thread. Quenched again in 3 litres of vegie oil. Then they were all tempered together at 350C (660F) for 1 hour. Today I tried to snap them. Huh!. I bent them, to varying degrees. This photo shows my success. Believe me the effort put in was far increased as they got tougher from 1 -> 3. I used a 14" Pipe to bend them. Trust me it was all I could do to put that bend in #3, given my rather rickety work bench anyway. I then snapped the knife. My wifes grand dad who was originally a blacksmith and later a gunsmith inspected the grain and he was very happy with it. It's smooth and microfine. Here's a fun movie I made to show my breaking games.
  8. Thanks for the info Bruce. It's so good to be able to pick the brains of more experienced makers. What did we do 10 years ago before the net? I'll watch how the temp shifts on my quench tube and see about a bigger one. My friend Jeff uses a 100lb gas bottle with the top cut off, filled with used ATF from mechanics. I understand about the counter intuitive reasoning behind the prewarmed oil, now. Hey Cris. That pic was on my mind. I couldn't believe that those grains on the right are so big and so look kind of sand sized. The blades I've broken looked like that middle section - a powdery texture, looking very fine, and not discernable to the eye. Hence I couldn't tell if they had 'grown' or not. And with a thin outer crust which hasn't broken quite with the body, just like you can see on yours. I'm kind of safe that I was HTing those knives on brickettes which struggled to get my steel to orange, let alone yellow, so there wasn't a big danger of overheating. I now have Coke which gets way hotter, but I'll be using my kiln for HTs so that will be safer. Having a pyrometer (thermometer) on it takes alot of the guess work out of it too. The electric kiln was easy to build, though very time consuming. It cost about $550 in parts. I did it in 2 sections each 550mm (22") internal height - so I can do knives or stack it for swords. The blades hang in from above. I saw Howard Clark's kiln on the Discovery Channel show Weapon Masters (those guys were loose hey?). So I know I'm on the right track. There's a thread at SBG forum where my friend Jeff showed us how to build one, then I added my experiences. Has anyone else done anything like this? Cheers Brendan
  9. Gotcha. Thanks for that Fellas, I'm sure that amount of guidance should save any intelligent person from steering off a cliff. I will set about doing a bunch of test pieces shortly and figure out what works best first hand. I have previously snapped a few knives I quenched from the forge, trying to straighten them, and have found a nice fine grain structure so far. Never any sand size crystals. But getting some direct comparisons will be great. As quench speed is paramount would y'all mind chiming in with a few pointers on my quench tube. It is 2" x 6" wide, and 44" deep. Which means it holds a little over 2 gallons of oil (8.25 litres). Does that sound like a fair size? I haven't located any supplier in Western Australia of dedicated quenching mediums like Parkes etc. So I have been using canola oil as I know it has a high flash point. It seems to have worked pretty good so far. Does that sound like a good setup? Our ambient temperatures are pretty warm, about 25C (77F). Do you support preheating the oil with a couple of bars considering the 9260 steel? I see most people have their quenchant at about 50C (120F). I will enjoy the trials as the best way, but being on the right road to begin with will help me to my destination. Thanks for all the input fellas. Brendan
  10. There you go, 870 it is. Thanks Red and Bruce. I don't know how I'll go with maneuvering a red hot 4ft sword from the kiln into a narrow quench tube in less than a second, but I'm sure it'll go fine with a bit of leeway on that.
  11. Thanks Bruce Thats a little more than I found. 870-930C seems a little high to quench from.
  12. Thanks Mike I'm using XK9258S, which is very similar to 9260. Is there anywhere I can go to find information regarding the treatment of that specific steel type? I've done a tonne of searches, but come up short. It's qualities are: Carbon. = 0.55 - 0.65 Si = 1.6 - 2.2 Mn = 0.7 - 1.05 P = Max 0.04 S = Max 0.04 Cr = Nil Thanks for any help you all can offer. I am building a kiln right now, and will be wanting to heat treat swords and knives pretty soon, so all info is appreciated. Previously I quenched my knives from the forge and tempered at 280C in the oven. Swords were sent to a suspension factory, but they kept stuffing them up. My kiln will be in two (570mm high) halves, and the blades will hang vertically. Thanks friends
  13. What bruce said above clearly makes sense. But I have a question. I was reading on Wikipedia , and also found this refered to on ther sites. It states that temper embrittlement is more likely to happen when tempering between 500 & 700F. I would think that tempering at that range would be good for swords, giving around 52-57Rc. Is it true that that range is more likely to give temper embrittlement?
  14. It is a beauty, and it's not the most crazy complex knife in the world, it's elegant, and done with heart. A great choice. Well Done!
  15. Woah. I think someones spiked my drink coz I am seeing colours. Seriously though Peter that is beautiful, and so meticulous. Very worthy showpieces. Well done.
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