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dsloan

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Everything posted by dsloan

  1. Kent, Just an FYI. Emerson anvils are cast out of 4140. http://emersonhorseshoe.net/21-anvils They also go up to 200#s. Everyone that I know that has one says it works really well and from what I can tell they are holding up well. They are in the 48-50rc range. Dave from Diller
  2. Really nice, Thanks for sharing Dave from diller
  3. Very, very nice. Something about simple folders and stag. Would love to see the grooving tool also. Dave from diller
  4. I'd leave it alone for now. It seems to be coming more from the clutch linkage rather than the pulley. Dave from diller
  5. Daniel, Excellent purchase, the 3.5 pulley is just a guide line really you can set up the size a little bigger for a little more speed and it won't hurt anything. When running properly with everything oiled/greased (clutch, ram and shaft main items). There's always some slip. I once watch a 100 run with a rear clutch and stood to the rear everytime the hammer struck the clutch slipped, the extra rpm plus the hp caused it to pick up a lot more smoothly. Don't focus on getting the beat per minutes right use what works. Folks feel a hammer running to fast will be out of control. Th
  6. Save the 5hp for another project. Check the affordable 1.5hp I bet it's a 1.5 at 220v and 3/4 at 110v. Dave from diller
  7. I watched the video it's 3450rpms. He's using rpms to make up for the hp. The correct pulley size on a 50 is 3.5 inches O.D. The drive pulley look quite a bit smaller. Hence more speed smaller pulley. Still a great hammer though. Dave from diller
  8. Wow is all I can say, about a 3/4. Yes, I'd get the 2hp, but remeber to get it in the 1750rpm range. It might wake that hammer up enough to feel like a 250. Rpms and HP are important components. To making these hammers run well. Easiest way to explain it speed for the slap you hear and HP to pick it back up. You have not only the weight of the ram but the counter weight of the flyweel. Use the same drive pulley's if possible. Or get ones in the right matching sizes (O.D.). I bet this is how he got it to run so well. I once saw a gentleman that was running a 50 with 1hp motor an
  9. It's a good clean looking hammer. Which raises my first question. The clutch should be oiled along with all moving parts (ram guide, knuckles and such). If it was cleaned recently, okay. I'd ask about oiling and greasing. The second thing I spotted was the dies, not original and I would ask about height. Dies can be a major investment. On the plus side the arms look good no rewelds, the babbit looked good, the wobble was no issue, the ram guide looked original and it hit amazing hard. One last thought 50's need a minimum of 2hp or a 3hp motor. I have a feeling after watching i
  10. I'm sure alot of what he was doing was showmanship. But try to cut a railroad spike like he did in his demo's, at a certain point you have to have it hanging off the anvil. I've found out one thing you have to strike your and blade at a straight angle, a glancing blow will make a wreck of thing. The largest piece of steel I've tried is a 16 penny nail. Dave from diller
  11. Here's an article that was floating around FB. It's a really well writing article and informative. https://clarksonhistory.wordpress.com/2013/05/06/secrets-of-the-dead-the-richtig-knife/ Dave from Diller
  12. Yes, that's Diller Ne. The Perfect mostly needs a good going over and thighten up. Spring are in good shape. Mostly in need of a lower die. It was running when removed from the shop, but has been stored outside since. Thanks Dave from Diller
  13. I have three 50# hammers available in various states of repairs. The first is a New Style Little Giant completely rebuilt. For $5800usd. The second is an Old Style hammer with lots of new parts. For $3600usd. The third is a Perfect. In need of tender loving care. For $900usd. I do have more photos and more info if interested. Oh yeah pick up only shipping is the buyers respondsobilty. Dave from diller
  14. Alan, When you speak to the Old Farmer again thank him for his story and photo's. It's quite interesting to note how many people's lives Mr. Richtig's knives have touched. President Eisenhower even had a Richtig knife. Dave from Diller
  15. This hammer has been sold Dave from Diller
  16. This hammer is located 8 miles from Beatrice Ne. Which I can say is about half way between Los Angles and New York for those that don't want to drive all the way across the U.S. for a hammer. Thanks Dave from Diller
  17. A friend of mine recently upgraded his 50# Little Giant and asked if I'd post this one up. This is an extremely old style with many upgrades. First off the sow block has been cut to allow the use of the replacement sow blocks and also allowing you to feed your work at an angle. Originally the dies were set in line. That's the reason for the hole. Grease zerts have been added to the clutch collar and treadle pin. All bearings are in good shape with plenty of shim. Also dual treadle rods have been added for better clutch engagement. Several items to note though. Being an early hammer it
  18. Sir, Gary was right Sid's the man. Now for the bad news. I can assume from the photo with the pass through frame this is an extremely old style with the single bolt main bearing, on a fifty, these were not as strong as they needed to be. They changed they're design after a short run. Also you'll notice the cast in ram guide on the left, this has caused more than enough headaches. The hammer does look to be in good shape though, from the picture. A fifty does weight in at 1800 pounds and you should have at least that amount of concrete. The foundation plans would be accurate.
  19. Everyone's opinion has been spot on so far. You'll find that folks that have power hammers want presses. Or folks with small hammers want larger. The only advice I can add is that, I own a 25 and 100 lb Little Giant and a press. For the most part my 25 could do anything that I wanted to do, but it does has it's limitations. I'd just have to scale my projects down a little. Good luck, decisions, decisions, decisions. Dave from Diller
  20. Justin, Depending on your work schedule and the time difference, Sid and Keri are usually in the shop from about 9:30 till 5:30 or after Central time. I'm not sure why your emails have been returned I received one from them yesterday and replied. (If all else fails PM me and I'll put you in contact with them.) You asked about babbit bearings. Yes it does. Kind of an odd arrangement though. Owen makes a good point. If you love old hammers, we'd drive out of our way for them. If you want to plug and play, you take Sam's advice or purchase a new rebuild from Sid which either way
  21. This is purely out of curiosity, but why do feel you need a bigger hammer? Dave from Diller
  22. Sir, One of the previous post was spot on about opinions of blacksmiths. I'd like to agree with the others too. A 250 is huge. Everything you do is going to be on the large size. From the pad to support this hammer your are going to need at least the weight of the hammer in concrete under it. Second if your planning a rebuild you'll need at least two good friend to help you or a forklift. The fly wheel and clutch are going to weight at least five hundred pounds together. One thing I'd like to point out on this hammer that might be a problem in rebuilding if you notice that on
  23. I can answer your original question. About time and temp. Carbon will absorb at a rate of .006 of an inch at 1750 degrees in a 1.1 percent atmosphere of carbon per hour. Where I work we carbonize u-joints. Most programs have a soak time of 5 hours allowing us to get .040 of an inch case hardening. As for your question about 5160. It won't work. I've tried. I've carborized 5160 with no evident results. What I learned is that the given mix that alloy steels have it will not allow the absorption of any more carbon. Take a simple carbon steel with low carbon content say 1018 and
  24. I found this interesting when I received my last catalog from Rio Grande Jewelry. They make a hydraulic press for making bracelets and what not. You can find more info at http://www.bonnydoonengineering.com/ The price is high and the frames look a little weak compared to what we see here, but interesting none the less. Dave from Diller
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