Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dsloan

  1. Gary, Great line up. Dave from diller
  2. Kent, Just an FYI. Emerson anvils are cast out of 4140. http://emersonhorseshoe.net/21-anvils They also go up to 200#s. Everyone that I know that has one says it works really well and from what I can tell they are holding up well. They are in the 48-50rc range. Dave from Diller
  3. Really nice, Thanks for sharing Dave from diller
  4. dsloan

    Grooved knife

    Very, very nice. Something about simple folders and stag. Would love to see the grooving tool also. Dave from diller
  5. I'd leave it alone for now. It seems to be coming more from the clutch linkage rather than the pulley. Dave from diller
  6. Daniel, Excellent purchase, the 3.5 pulley is just a guide line really you can set up the size a little bigger for a little more speed and it won't hurt anything. When running properly with everything oiled/greased (clutch, ram and shaft main items). There's always some slip. I once watch a 100 run with a rear clutch and stood to the rear everytime the hammer struck the clutch slipped, the extra rpm plus the hp caused it to pick up a lot more smoothly. Don't focus on getting the beat per minutes right use what works. Folks feel a hammer running to fast will be out of control. Then I always say don't step on the threadle so hard. I've got to ring a bell now for the surplus center. It's located in Lincoln NE just a short 50 miles away. It's an outstanding source for motors and other things. It's a big kids warehouse. Kind of like the "yard" in Wichita KS. (scrap aluminum, and metal in any size). The rejects of the aircraft industry. Dave from diller
  7. Save the 5hp for another project. Check the affordable 1.5hp I bet it's a 1.5 at 220v and 3/4 at 110v. Dave from diller
  8. I watched the video it's 3450rpms. He's using rpms to make up for the hp. The correct pulley size on a 50 is 3.5 inches O.D. The drive pulley look quite a bit smaller. Hence more speed smaller pulley. Still a great hammer though. Dave from diller
  9. Wow is all I can say, about a 3/4. Yes, I'd get the 2hp, but remeber to get it in the 1750rpm range. It might wake that hammer up enough to feel like a 250. Rpms and HP are important components. To making these hammers run well. Easiest way to explain it speed for the slap you hear and HP to pick it back up. You have not only the weight of the ram but the counter weight of the flyweel. Use the same drive pulley's if possible. Or get ones in the right matching sizes (O.D.). I bet this is how he got it to run so well. I once saw a gentleman that was running a 50 with 1hp motor and a 1 inch pulley. He felt this added to control. I out forged this 50 with a 3lb hand hammer. Having said the above another thought came to me 3/4hp 3450rpms. Will have to watch the video again. Dave from diller
  10. It's a good clean looking hammer. Which raises my first question. The clutch should be oiled along with all moving parts (ram guide, knuckles and such). If it was cleaned recently, okay. I'd ask about oiling and greasing. The second thing I spotted was the dies, not original and I would ask about height. Dies can be a major investment. On the plus side the arms look good no rewelds, the babbit looked good, the wobble was no issue, the ram guide looked original and it hit amazing hard. One last thought 50's need a minimum of 2hp or a 3hp motor. I have a feeling after watching it run you've met these requirements. For a reasonable price this would be an outstanding hammer for you. (If you learned on a 250# air hammer don't expect the same results instantly). Wow!!! Dave from Diller
  11. dsloan

    F. J. Richtig

    I'm sure alot of what he was doing was showmanship. But try to cut a railroad spike like he did in his demo's, at a certain point you have to have it hanging off the anvil. I've found out one thing you have to strike your and blade at a straight angle, a glancing blow will make a wreck of thing. The largest piece of steel I've tried is a 16 penny nail. Dave from diller
  12. dsloan

    F. J. Richtig

    Here's an article that was floating around FB. It's a really well writing article and informative. https://clarksonhistory.wordpress.com/2013/05/06/secrets-of-the-dead-the-richtig-knife/ Dave from Diller
  13. Yes, that's Diller Ne. The Perfect mostly needs a good going over and thighten up. Spring are in good shape. Mostly in need of a lower die. It was running when removed from the shop, but has been stored outside since. Thanks Dave from Diller
  14. I have three 50# hammers available in various states of repairs. The first is a New Style Little Giant completely rebuilt. For $5800usd. The second is an Old Style hammer with lots of new parts. For $3600usd. The third is a Perfect. In need of tender loving care. For $900usd. I do have more photos and more info if interested. Oh yeah pick up only shipping is the buyers respondsobilty. Dave from diller
  15. dsloan

    F. J. Richtig

    Alan, When you speak to the Old Farmer again thank him for his story and photo's. It's quite interesting to note how many people's lives Mr. Richtig's knives have touched. President Eisenhower even had a Richtig knife. Dave from Diller
  16. This hammer has been sold Dave from Diller
  17. This hammer is located 8 miles from Beatrice Ne. Which I can say is about half way between Los Angles and New York for those that don't want to drive all the way across the U.S. for a hammer. Thanks Dave from Diller
  18. A friend of mine recently upgraded his 50# Little Giant and asked if I'd post this one up. This is an extremely old style with many upgrades. First off the sow block has been cut to allow the use of the replacement sow blocks and also allowing you to feed your work at an angle. Originally the dies were set in line. That's the reason for the hole. Grease zerts have been added to the clutch collar and treadle pin. All bearings are in good shape with plenty of shim. Also dual treadle rods have been added for better clutch engagement. Several items to note though. Being an early hammer it has a single bolt main bearing on the front. He is not offering a motor. A piece of angle iron has been welded into rear ram guide. Having looked at this I feel it was added to keep the ram from striking the bottom of the fly wheel. Most folks just cut off the rear ear on the ram to make proper clearance, but this was an interesting fix. I've operated this hammer and it works flawlessly. He's asking $1600. Feel free to contact me. I'll be happy to answer any questions for you. Dave from Diller www.sloansknives.com
  19. Sir, Gary was right Sid's the man. Now for the bad news. I can assume from the photo with the pass through frame this is an extremely old style with the single bolt main bearing, on a fifty, these were not as strong as they needed to be. They changed they're design after a short run. Also you'll notice the cast in ram guide on the left, this has caused more than enough headaches. The hammer does look to be in good shape though, from the picture. A fifty does weight in at 1800 pounds and you should have at least that amount of concrete. The foundation plans would be accurate. I hope this helps. Dave from Diller
  20. Everyone's opinion has been spot on so far. You'll find that folks that have power hammers want presses. Or folks with small hammers want larger. The only advice I can add is that, I own a 25 and 100 lb Little Giant and a press. For the most part my 25 could do anything that I wanted to do, but it does has it's limitations. I'd just have to scale my projects down a little. Good luck, decisions, decisions, decisions. Dave from Diller
  21. Justin, Depending on your work schedule and the time difference, Sid and Keri are usually in the shop from about 9:30 till 5:30 or after Central time. I'm not sure why your emails have been returned I received one from them yesterday and replied. (If all else fails PM me and I'll put you in contact with them.) You asked about babbit bearings. Yes it does. Kind of an odd arrangement though. Owen makes a good point. If you love old hammers, we'd drive out of our way for them. If you want to plug and play, you take Sam's advice or purchase a new rebuild from Sid which either way you couldn't go wrong. Dave from Diller
  22. This is purely out of curiosity, but why do feel you need a bigger hammer? Dave from Diller
  23. Sir, One of the previous post was spot on about opinions of blacksmiths. I'd like to agree with the others too. A 250 is huge. Everything you do is going to be on the large size. From the pad to support this hammer your are going to need at least the weight of the hammer in concrete under it. Second if your planning a rebuild you'll need at least two good friend to help you or a forklift. The fly wheel and clutch are going to weight at least five hundred pounds together. One thing I'd like to point out on this hammer that might be a problem in rebuilding if you notice that one side of the ram guide is cast into the frame. This can be a major concern on a hammer of this age and can lead to problems down the road. Your raised a good point on the size, if you feel you need a hammer this size you might consider a press. If you are going to forge large billets of Damascus I'm talking over 5 inches tall and weighting over 5 pounds a 100 pounder is all you'll need. I'd question the seller about the hammer next to it. It would easier to handle and easier to rebuild and will do everything you ask of it within reason. I hope this helps. Dave from Diller
  24. I can answer your original question. About time and temp. Carbon will absorb at a rate of .006 of an inch at 1750 degrees in a 1.1 percent atmosphere of carbon per hour. Where I work we carbonize u-joints. Most programs have a soak time of 5 hours allowing us to get .040 of an inch case hardening. As for your question about 5160. It won't work. I've tried. I've carborized 5160 with no evident results. What I learned is that the given mix that alloy steels have it will not allow the absorption of any more carbon. Take a simple carbon steel with low carbon content say 1018 and you can add carbon, but you can't add more than .9 percent carbon to it. It reaches it's saturation point. By changing the mix of elements allows the steel to absorb more carbon. Hopefully this helps. It took me awhile to figure out. I just hope I can save someone else the headache. Dave from Diller
  25. I found this interesting when I received my last catalog from Rio Grande Jewelry. They make a hydraulic press for making bracelets and what not. You can find more info at http://www.bonnydoonengineering.com/ The price is high and the frames look a little weak compared to what we see here, but interesting none the less. Dave from Diller
  • Create New...