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Jziegenbein

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Everything posted by Jziegenbein

  1. those are nifty! kenon, i have an anvil cast from pewter on my keychain.
  2. i like it alot. alot better than the standard spike knife. the scales really set it off. did you forge out the head? or just cut it off?
  3. thanks for the replies guys. i know i normalized it at least 4 times throughout making this blade, so the grain size should be pretty small. i'm not too worried about whether it hardened well enough because i've already tested the bejesus out of this blade, and im just going to destroy it testing anyway.
  4. working on a seax blade recently, forged out of a huge old file. i think its pretty close to 1095. i edge quenched it in veg oil. i know it hardened pretty well because it skated a file and after i tempered it, its tough as anything. bends to about 25 degrees with no deflection. polished it to 400grit and gave it a wipe down with a cloth soaked in dilute FeCl. at first i saw a straight line right along where it went into the oil like i expected, but after a couple etches and sanding the oxides off, i see a little very thin hamon right on the very edge in the middle of the blade. this one is way foggier and more active. more like a hamon looks when you clay a blade, rather than an edge quench hamon. now its easier to see the little hamon than the straight hamon. i dunno if i didnt soak the blade long enough in the forge? or if its anything to worry about. what do you think made this happen?
  5. thanks guys! i should be able to post some more of my work now, (if i ever get around to finishing my projects...) now that i have access to someone who can take pictures that dont look like everythings growing fur
  6. dunno how i missed this one. Dave that looks incredible!
  7. thanks! and i think Ed Fowler uses 52100 for all his knives now, yeah
  8. This one is forged from a Nicholson file a month or two ago. the Handle is part of a block of mystery burl i got from the Blade show last year. the pattern and iridescence of it surprised me. the guard and pommel are wrought iron from some anchor chain i bought on here last year. I'm really pleased with how this one turned out. I havent made a sheath for it yet, i'll update the posting and price accordingly once i finish it. I'm asking $150 for this knife shipped anywhere in the US Thanks for looking!
  9. Made this one about 3 months ago. the blade is made from a bearing race which i think is 52100, it was a bear to forge and hardened well so i think i'm right about that. the scales are Osage orange which i stained with FeCl and neutralized with windex and then waxed. the blade is around 3" long and the handle is about the same. its a nice comfortable 3 finger utility. i'm asking $110 for this knife shipped anywhere in the US Thanks for looking!
  10. Made this one about 3 months ago. the blade is made from a bearing race which i think is 52100, it was a bear to forge and hardened well so i think i'm right about that. the scales are Osage orange which i stained with FeCl and neutralized with windex and then waxed. the blade is around 3" long and the handle is about the same. its a nice comfortable 3 finger utility. Thanks for looking!
  11. its been a while since i've posted anything, i lost my camera but now i have someone taking pictures for me. This one is forged from a Nicholson file a month or two ago. the Handle is part of a block of mystery burl i got from the Blade show last year. the pattern and iridescence of it surprised me. the guard and pommel are wrought iron from some anchor chain i bought on here last year. I'm really pleased with how this one turned out. I tried to tease a hamon out of it, but it just wouldnt come. I could see it in the oxides after the etch in dilute, but whenever i wiped the blade with steel wool it would disappear! Thanks for looking!
  12. i think it's "wrong" because its not L6, and they sold it as L6
  13. whats the point of a helmet against zombies? zombies dont bite your head, they bite everywhere else. plus helmets cut down your visibility. also, if you have long hair, cut it. or at least pull it back. the same goes with beards. theyre just convenient handles for zombies to grab on to. same with baggy clothing, if you do wear some kind of armor, make sure it's pretty close fitting. otherwise mr.zombie can get a nice handful of your shirt. and they have a strong grip.
  14. im not sure about what fiberglass resin you have available, but the kind i get at my local car parts store realy isnt that expensive. something like $15 a quart. and i use it to glue my knives. works well, but mixing up small enough amounts can be tricky. its also a little on the brittle side, but i've never had a handle break with this stuff and i've tested a few a lot.
  15. i think a peice of walnut with pewter or silver bolsters would look good. the dark wood would go well with the grey of the bevels and the bright silver would be a good contrast from the muted tones of everything else. or maybe brass for a bolster.
  16. shows how much i still have to learn...
  17. i dont mess with brass, but with copper and nickel, and copper and silver, i've used flux once. and that was one of 2 billets that never stuck. if you ever forge on side, do it at welding temp. otherwise your welds are more likely to shear.
  18. it wont matter. even if one peice was the most massive grain ever, and one was too fine to harden, there isnt a grain at welding temp, and once you cool it down both grians will be pretty big from being that hot that long
  19. Jziegenbein

    Copper

    i forge weld copper all day long when i make mokume. and i use copper pipe a lot to keep the unwelded layers together. mind, i have a propane forge, and i dont quite get it to melting temp, i do get it to where it just begins to bead up if i dont pay attention though... i did melt some copper pipe in my forge just after i'd got it, it was a big puddly mess on the floor of my forge, i let it cool and when i took it off, i broke the copper and it looked like swiss cheese cross bred with styrofoam.
  20. if you can get ahold of it, i've heard lard can work well for some steels. wayne goddard, author of the $50 knife shop, uses bacon grease, which is basically lard, to quench his knives.
  21. i hate you so much john.....
  22. that looks like a serious zombie hunting weapon. only nicer.
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