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Everything posted by Jziegenbein

  1. dont quench that knife in water. not even an edge quench. it WILL crack. 5160, which is most likely close to what you have, hardens way too fast in water and it ALWAYS cracks. i'd just go with oil to be safe. water's too dangerous to play with unless you really need a fancy hamon. or are using W series steel.
  2. sick tutorial dee! i love/hate/fear zombie stuff. its the one "mythical" creature that legitimately freaks me the hell out. probably because i can see it happening. rabies on steroids. that said, i keep a 3.5ft sharpened crowbar next to my forge, which is outside, next to some dense woods, and i usually forge at night. i always see zombies out of the corner of my vision, but they turn into cats or birds when i look at them properly. i'm always on the lookout... glad to see more people are aware of the threat and know how to deal with it.
  3. i think that the short swords of westerness that the hobbits find in the barrow are some type of damascus type metal. "of marvellous workmanship, damasked in red and gold."
  4. you can do anything with mokume that you can with damascus, i just made a billet that i accordianed, and then made into feathered W's. you can twist as well. if you have an idea just go for it.
  5. maybe a very very rough estimate could be gained, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. i've seen knives that looked like utter....well, not tasty things... sell for WAY more than i thought they were worth because someone else liked it. and then i've seen knives that are built beautifully and priced way too low, not sell for a long time just because no one who fancies it has seen it
  6. go for warm canola oil, and be prepared to have to straighten it. anything that thin is sure to warp.
  7. "when you get offended when someone asks you if you have to "fold" your knives thousands of times when u forge them." that happens all the time. "whoa, you make knives?" "yeah" "so do you fold the steel like they did in japan a thousand years ago" "..... no, i cant forge weld ye-" "well you should, that's the only way to make good swords. only 3 people in the world do it anymore" "ummm... no they dont. actually using modern steel, folding it doesnt do anythin-" "i saw a show on discovery channel and they cut through a machine gun with a real katana! the ones that people make now aren't nearly as good!" "...well, would you look at the time...id better go" :lol:
  8. i have a 2.5 cross pein and a 3.5 cross pein that i use for most everything. the larger one has a flatter face and so i use it for setting bevels and finishing tangs and flats the other one is more domed. i also have a 1.5lb cross pein that is a lot more polished that i use for light work and finish forging. if i REALLY have to move some metal, i have a splitting maul that i ground the edge off and turned into a straight pein sledge that i use. i think it's 8lbs
  9. it's obsolete, i think. they made the hot work, bloomers and buttons, and other ones to replace it. so as to get things more organized. they left the old one there so that people can still read old threads and not have a wealth of knowledge lost.
  10. larger grain ( i think) also makes the tensile strength of the knife a lot lower, meaning that it will snap a heck of a lot easier than one with a smaller grain. also, having a REALLY hard knife isnt all that good a thing either, even if the grain is a good size, if you dont temper it, 1. the knife will snap easier than a tempered knife. 2. the edge will likely chip. it'll chip easier if it's at a shallower angle too. 3. the amount of time and work it takes to sharpen a 65rc knife outweighs the slightly fewer times you have to do it. a 59rc is generally springier and easier to sharpen and should still hold a great edge. all depending on how the grain is and what steel it is. i think i heard somewhere that if you have a steel that will get harder when fully quenched and then tempered back more to the desired range, 52100 for example, that i think gets to about 67rc and is tempered to 59-60rc, is tougher and more abrasion resistant than a steel that isnt tempered as much, at the same hardness. such as a railroad spike, that hardens at 59rc if youre lucky and generally isnt tempered. is that right?
  11. i picture the lonely mountain in it's golden age and the nearby town of dale. the dwarves within talk of master crafting and smithing and create incredible works while teaching apprentices from the town of dale and other dwarves. while in the nearby town of dale, mere mortal smiths, although still those with prodigious skills in their own right craft more practical works for themselves and to trade far and wide. the whole area is far out in wilderland past the last homely house and the misty mountains. most people do not know of it, and have never been there, but a few travellers with a fire in their hearts (and in their beards) will find their way past the obstacles into the glory and peace of the mountain or town. good songs and the sounds of anvils sounds throughout the day and night through all the nearby land. hunting and fishing are plentiful while a little ways off in the forest of mirkwood, the wood elves will drop by to trade or pass news and wisdom from other lands.
  12. ouch! not unfixable though, like what's been said on here, some epoxy will do the trick. that's some pretty sick carving! i know it's a heck of a lot better than anything i could make,
  13. i love lunar strain! i really like clayman and a sense of purpose as well.
  14. nice! what albums have you heard of theirs?
  15. it makes excellent hammers, tongs, and hardys.
  16. on my hay budden, the numbers are right below the brand.
  17. when, before you actually put a stick of gum in your mouth, you "forge" it to shape with your fingers.
  18. those are both beauties as always stephan! it think you had the second one at trackrock. thanks for the pointers by the way, they've been really helpful.
  19. i like eluveitie, in flames, and nightwish.
  20. GOOD GOD!!!! that's GORGEOUS!!!!!1
  21. i vote for a langseax as well. pointy and beefy enough to chop well, and still usable as a tool.
  22. in some of my experiments recently i found that if you force a stack of 4 or 5 quarters into the mouth of copper pipe, it holds them together pretty well if anyone's having trouble keeping the stacks from tipping like me.
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