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About jlkilpatrick

  • Birthday 02/24/1966

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  • Location
    Boaz, Alabama USA
  • Interests
    Metalwork, Pottery, Woodworking, Wild Turkey, Camel cigarettes, (Real Camels, mind you. Not those filtered things..)<br />
  1. Yeah, the thing's amazing. I just finally realized I'm never going to be more than a hobbyist, so a tool like this is just massive overkill, for me. I'm confident some good 'smith around these parts will find a place for it, though. Luke
  2. |----------------------| |------- Sold! -------| |----------------------| Howdy, folks A few years ago, I was working for a fellow who turned out to be a machine shop foreman. When he found out I was into bladesmithing, he asked if I wanted this oven. The next day, I watched as they pulled it from its stand, and installed a new, larger one. He told me that the oven was a little temperamental, but that it was in regular use. The oven is 240/480v 1-phase, and weighs, I'm guessing 400lb or more. The cavity is 5"x5"x21.5" with the door closed. (note, I removed the back panel to show the electrical components. It isn't missing. It comes with 3 new replacement elements, and their supports, as pictured. I paid $150 for it, and that's what I'm asking for all of it. This oven is a brute, and will require a pickup truck to haul it away. I live in Boaz, AL, about an hour south of Huntsville. If interested, please email me at: jmskilpatrick@gmail.com Have a good day! Luke Edit to add: The model is Blue M 2015D-2
  3. That's the best advice I've heard all day! Shawn, unless you're hurting for the cash, Brandon is right. You've obviously put a lot of TLC into that forge. It'll make a dandy stand for your new gas forge, and it'll be there when you need to go with solid fuel. Of course, sometimes we need cash more than even good tools, but it usually ends up being a regrettable choice. Either way, good luck! Luke
  4. Ted, if you have some detailed shots of that suit, like the gauntlets, please post them. I know I'm not alone in wanting to see more of it. Beautiful work! Luke
  5. Man, tell me about it! My "Pending Experiments" file is so big, sometimes I just hide under the covers and refuse to get out of bed! Luke
  6. I'll just bet it was time consuming!! If that was a job for a paying customer, I hope you charged enough to cover yourself. If it was for a friend, you're a prince, and I hope he realizes that! Luke
  7. I recall reading a metallugry text that made it clear that lower temperatures held for longer periods achieved exactly the same end results in the tempering process. I don't remember it quite as clearly, but I sort of recall the author making a case for more uniformity when the tempering was broken into more than one session. Sounds like your experience backs that up pretty well. Luke
  8. I, too, learned that normalizing meant air cooling, and annealing meant slow cooling. The more I looked into it, though, the more I realized that true annealing has to go much slower than what we're going to get with burying a blade in ash or vermiculite. Many hours in some cases, as I recall. Around then I started calling the regular blacksmith's kind of slow cooling "super normalizing", and just took it for granted that I'd never get a true anneal, but rather a very good normalization with the procedure that it was practical for me to use. That's why I called it normalization, instead of annealing. Quite possibly a mistake based on my own made-up terminology. I'm pretty sure that the slower the cooling rate, the better the stress relief, and in that regard, it makes sense to differentiate between air and an insulating medium. I'm certainly no authority, and I'll happily go along with the consensus on this. The last think I want is to be handing out wrong advice to the new guys. Luke
  9. Ken, that's how almost all of us got started, and one foot following the other has taken folks far, indeed! Howard, coming from you, that makes me happy! Ken, pay particular attention to Howard's posts. He's forgotten more about heat treating than I've ever known! Luke
  10. Heat treatment is a huge subject, and I can't do more than scratch the surface here. First, check out the Metallurgy section of this forum for more depth, and waaaaay more informed people than me. You can get as in-depth as you want to, with heat treatment, but here are a few basics. Lots of good knives have been made with no more than what I'm going to say here, but to really get the maximum performance, you have to learn a lot more.. Critical temperature. This is where the steel changes state. It's the temp. you need the steel to be at for normalizing, and quenching. Most simple steels do us a favor, by becoming non-magnetic at about this temp. Keep a magnet handy, and check it as the blade gets hotter. Once the magnet no longer sticks, "soak" the blade just a little longer, (15 seconds or so), then you're there. Normalizing. Also called stress relief, this consists of bringing the blade to the critical temp. and then cooling it as slowly as you can. Burying it in ashes works, or you can use garden center vermiculite. Once it's room temp., you've normalized it. The stresses that remain from forging can cause a blade to warp when you quench it. Normalizing relieves some of these stresses, and lessens the chance of warping in the quench. Many smiths will normalize three times before quenching! Quenching. Take the blade, once it's reached critical temp. and put it in oil, (most of us), or water, (the bravest only!), and it will fully harden. A fully hardened blade will laugh at a file or drill bit, but you can snap it with your bare hands. That's too hard, and the next step, tempering, is done to soften it somewhat, making a good, durable tool. The oil you use for quenching can range from used motor oil, (about the worst), through transmission fluid, (works OK), to purpose-made quenching oils (the best). Getting started, I used transmission fluid successfully for quite a while.. Methods differ, but I put the blade in edge-down, and gently swirled it about just a little. Tempering. This is the process of softening the blade down just a bit from fully hardened. Once the blade has been quenched, it is put into an oven and left for an hour or two at a temperature much lower than forging temp. Typically, the tempering temperature is around 400 to 500 deg.F. A used toaster oven will generally be a good choice for this operation. Using the wife's cooking oven to raost a blade that has oil on it will get you scolded pretty hard! As I said, I've only scratched the surface here. The critical and tempering temperatures vary with every alloy, and the details of the procedure very with every smith. That's a basic rundown of the process, though, and you can ask more questions from there. The people on this forum are a great bunch, and will be glad to help you along. Good luck, and have fun! Luke
  11. Geoff: That's one of only a couple of Heinlein stories that I haven't read. On the other hand, I think that the first time I ever heard of tesseracts was in "Glory Road". N-dimensional geometry is a mind warping concept, isn't it? Todd: I absolutely agree about the character qualities of bladesmiths. As a group, they're among the nicest people I've ever known. Ornery at times, it's true, but overall, just a wonderful bunch. Luke
  12. Let's see.. I'd add metallurgist, firebug, romantic, and obsessive-compulsive. I don't think three dimensions are going to be nearly enough. How do you feel about tesseracts? Luke
  13. Wow is right! What an eccentric performance! Luke
  14. Watching you make this journey has been a great learning experience. There is no substitute for making one's own mistakes, but seeing an honest account of another's trial and error is the next best thing. Thank you for documenting your experience so well, and sharing all of your setbacks, as well as your triumphs. I admire your ingenuity, as well as your determination. Congratulations!! Luke
  15. Gorgeous! I, too, wonder why you applied it to an apparently flat bar. Do you intend to remove stock for a blade, or is this a test piece? Darn pretty, either way.. Luke
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