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SteveShimanek

Supporting Member
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About SteveShimanek

  • Birthday 06/12/1962

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  • Website URL
    www.oloteleforge.com
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    9th circle of hell
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Japanese swords, martial arts

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Dave, my boat is here in Pago Pago harbor, American Samoa; it is a 1980 Lancer 36 designed as a IOR racer/cruiser. It was cheap, so you know how much goes into THAT! I have been working on it since February and just got to sail it for the first time the other day; plan is to leave to sail north in October/November time frame if all goes well.
  2. Nice project, coming along great! Still working on my boat as well, a 36 foot sail boat; we are heading back to Hawaii in the very near future.
  3. A death grip on the handle causes a lot of damage to body structures; the hand and arm should guide the hammer and let it hit, but a looser grip is needed. The shape of the handle is important as well, most stock handles are too thick and not indexed. I profile mine like the profile of a samurai sword grip, like an oval with square sides.
  4. When using very fine grits after establishing the shape and foundation polish, it is better to go in one direction (along the length and back) while ensuring coarser scratches are not left behind; this is all wet sanding with water with baking soda added to minimize flash rusting, and a lot of rinsing and changing water at each grit change.
  5. Sorry, I wasn't too clear...use the highest grit that affects the scratches on the blade effectively, then move to higher grits. Your surface is already fairly clean, so keep your sanding direction along the length, all in the same direction. Clean carefully when changing grits, change water, and add some sodium bicarbonate to keep flash rust down.
  6. If you go the sandpaper route, start with the highest grit you can, and treat the entire surface the same to avoid any dips or waves; use a backing pad of something firm and flat. The kissaki area is finished perpendicular to the rest of the blade. If this is a Japanese sword, the value will be lost by an amateur "polish"; as a maker who also has done some restoration work on antique swords, i can state it is not an easy process to learn. If this is just a Chinese replica, have at it. Please respond as to the origin of this sword?
  7. If this is a Japanese sword, the value will be lost by an amateur "polish"; as a maker who also has done some restoration work on antique swords, i can state it is not an easy process to learn. If this is just a Chinese replica, have at it. Please respond as to the origin of this sword?
  8. Worth a try, nothing to lose but time and some fuel.....and you might learn something.
  9. Bet he didn't have eye protection, either....the rice straw bundle is for diverting most of the flux spray, but how many have been blinded no one knows?
  10. Glad to see you posting again, Dan....I wondered what you have been up to. Nice work!
  11. working on the 40 year old sail boat, mowing the lawn, polishing and making shirasaya for a Japanese spear....the usual.
  12. Garry, you are doing some very fine work there! I wonder if you would be interested in doing a wood trade...I have a Hawaiian Koa rifle stock blank that i would trade for an equal amount of NZ swamp kauri, if you are interested. I did not see a private message button on your profile anywhere, so put it here.
  13. Mild steel has worked fine for me.
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