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SteveShimanek

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About SteveShimanek

  • Birthday 06/12/1962

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  • Website URL
    www.oloteleforge.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    9th circle of hell
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, blacksmithing, Japanese swords, martial arts

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  1. Sorry, I wasn't too clear...use the highest grit that affects the scratches on the blade effectively, then move to higher grits. Your surface is already fairly clean, so keep your sanding direction along the length, all in the same direction. Clean carefully when changing grits, change water, and add some sodium bicarbonate to keep flash rust down.
  2. If you go the sandpaper route, start with the highest grit you can, and treat the entire surface the same to avoid any dips or waves; use a backing pad of something firm and flat. The kissaki area is finished perpendicular to the rest of the blade. If this is a Japanese sword, the value will be lost by an amateur "polish"; as a maker who also has done some restoration work on antique swords, i can state it is not an easy process to learn. If this is just a Chinese replica, have at it. Please respond as to the origin of this sword?
  3. If this is a Japanese sword, the value will be lost by an amateur "polish"; as a maker who also has done some restoration work on antique swords, i can state it is not an easy process to learn. If this is just a Chinese replica, have at it. Please respond as to the origin of this sword?
  4. Worth a try, nothing to lose but time and some fuel.....and you might learn something.
  5. Bet he didn't have eye protection, either....the rice straw bundle is for diverting most of the flux spray, but how many have been blinded no one knows?
  6. Glad to see you posting again, Dan....I wondered what you have been up to. Nice work!
  7. working on the 40 year old sail boat, mowing the lawn, polishing and making shirasaya for a Japanese spear....the usual.
  8. Garry, you are doing some very fine work there! I wonder if you would be interested in doing a wood trade...I have a Hawaiian Koa rifle stock blank that i would trade for an equal amount of NZ swamp kauri, if you are interested. I did not see a private message button on your profile anywhere, so put it here.
  9. Mild steel has worked fine for me.
  10. The steel plates probably effectively quenched the tang; you may need to temper to blue or hot stamp your mark earlier in the process.
  11. Not bladesmith related, but I have been teaching myself to TIG weld aluminum, as i repair numerous corrosion holes in a diesel fuel tank from my 40 year old sailboat. Aluminum is a very different animal than steel, but I am making progress. Boat work has taken precedence over shop work lately, but i have some sword polishing backlogged that i will be back to soon.
  12. That cannon pattern is rocking; have you cast it yet?
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