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  1. Thanks for your help everyone. I think I will taking my pieces to a higher finish and cleaning then with something more than soap and water and then try to lock in the color by boiling in water and then neutralize in baking soda water. If this does not give me the results I am looking for I have some KG black baking lacquer that I might give a try.
  2. The surface was a good clean 600 grit. What do you guys do after the etch to clean and finish the damascus?
  3. Hello, I finally got around to using some nice 15n20 and 1095 for a damascus billet the other day and when I etched it I was a little disappointed in how the black color of the 1095 just washed away when I cleaned off the rest of the Ferric Chloride (1-4 ratio at room temp). I etched it for about 15 minutes cleaning it lightly once in the middle of the time and then thoroughly when finished. The depth could definitely be deeper and I'm sure that will come with more etch time, but I feel as though I am missing something. Is there some sort of trick to lock in that oxide coating? I thought a
  4. I thought I'd add my version of this great tool. So far mine is working great and has been a wonderful addition to my shop. It even helps with my everyday forging. I've got a few more things to patch up and I might even paint it. Thanks again for sharing this with us all!!!
  5. Here is a picture of my mini press. I have a few things to patch up still, but so far it is a great tool. Definitely worth the $150 I spent on steel and the bottle jack from Harbor Freight. Zach
  6. Ariel, Great tutorial! Those teeth came out great. I have been looking for a stainless with a lot of Molibdenum in it for a while now. I've heard of the 420M before, but have never been able to find a supplier of it. May I ask how you acquired your 420mv? Thanks Zach
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