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Dmitry.M

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About Dmitry.M

  • Birthday 04/22/1966

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    http://www.artandknife.com

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    Oregon, WI

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  1. I never tried any "hearth" method so I have nothing to write. I make crucible steel only. I know for sure that the more oxidized the steel is the more it boils\bubbles. Maybe someone knows more and can correct me or confirm that?
  2. You are right about the bad effect of oxidation ( if we are talking about iron oxide in the steel). The consequences could be very different. From large voids\Swiss cheese to pinholes. The forging can fail at any stage of processing sometimes without warning. IMO general the rule of thumb is to keep steel from oxidation. The smaller the ingot - the smaller the dendrites that can possibly grow. Hence the smaller ingot has finer grain and is relatively easier to forge. The difference between 1# ingot and 2# ingot is huge.
  3. Amen to that Niko! You got it right and your wootz reflects that. Congratulations!
  4. Me, www.artandknife.com, USA, WI I think it is better to ask people if it is OK before listing them... as well as ask them about their correct info I did not know that Roselli make wootz... About "sharing the methods, ingredients, forging techniques" ... really?!
  5. Hi Niko. It looks not bad. But is'n it curved too much? I think it will get even worse after the HT. You may try to straighten it a bit by forging the fullers on the spine.
  6. Classy Niko! Good luck with finishing it.
  7. Well. If I understand right you bought powerhammer instead of press. Or you aim at having both? Than i'll be VERY jelaous... Nevertheless. The fast moving and cracks is common for any tool. I had tried the powerhammer few years ago and had cracks as soon as went full force\full stroke on the powerhammer. So slow and steady is the only way. The hammer has a big advantage ovet the press. It does not suck the heat out of the piece. Actually you should be able to heat it along the forging(selfheating). I've heard that on very big hammers they had to forge slower in order to keep the piece from overheating. I am not sure if this is applicable to your press. Sad that you still have to initially fit the ingot by hand. May be you can make or buy thiner\smaller dyes? May be not drawing dyes, just flat ones to press the edges down a bit. You'll figure it out. So now what? More shamshir blades? I am scared even to think what you can produce with the "machine". Give us more pictures. Please...
  8. M-m-m-m... powerhammer.... I'm officially jelaous. So far it looks great. No cracks or folding. Good luck and keep posting the pics. Very interesting!
  9. I can get locally black iron oxide in bags for $0.48/lb, Red Iron Oxide for $0.35/lb and yellow(ish) for $0.76/lb. All clean and no hassle. Yet I collect some(yellow) ore that I can pick up for free. Unless the ore smelting process itself is a goal and an essence there is no reason to use $1.5/lb ore considering hard labor, time and weather. My 2 cents...
  10. My 2 cents. If i would run this ore twice through the furnace I would not magnet it from the "contaminants". It is good natural slug. It may reduce the yeld but double run should produce pretty clean metal. If you can fing the land owner may be you can make a deal. There might be some test sights with opened ore deposites. The ore seems to be a very good. It is worth to try IMO.
  11. Niko! Nice and curly!!! Take your time. The blade is worth it.
  12. Hi Greg. Nice blade and nice pattern. This type of wootz played a lot of tricks on me. Ones you have moly or tungsten in it it has to be forged at high temp. Chrome - lower temp but still higher than unaloyed steel. So I quit mixing several alloying elements in one batch. In your case the heat treating ccould be a hassle. I would recommend to make at least double quench. First time heat it up to high temp with short soak and quench on air or in the oil. That should refine the moly-based structures without dispersing it. Second quench - as if it is an unaloyed steel_low temp), but with long soak time. You need some chrome carbides to be dissolved as well. The second quench should bring the contrast. You know what is the value of stranger's advice is, especcialy about wootz. So I give you no numbers, just the general idea that worked for me. As for me. I really quit making complex alloys. Just Fe+C+ ONE alloying element. I managed to get some vanadium and it looks like it works in very minute amounts. Like 0.1-0.2%. Tungsten and moly works as well, but you need a bit more, 0.2-0.5%. Chrome is OK in 0.5-0.7%, but not more.
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