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J.S. Hill

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About J.S. Hill

  • Birthday 12/08/1973

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    jshannonhill@hotmail.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ringgold, GA
  • Interests
    Spending time with my lovely Wife and Children, eating, Family, eating (lots), bladesmithing, eating, Nihonto, Japanese culture (sushi--yummm!), love clay and pottery.

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  1. Have you tried this pinned thread? I don't use this process, myself, but it works for MANY folks: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17602 Hope that helps, Shannon
  2. Photos of Handle and Sheath. Handle is 6 3/4" length. Jyo-saya is 11 5/8". Total length sheathed is right at 19". They are both made from a nice piece of dense red oak. Thanks, Shannon
  3. Price is now $575.00. in Binsuido or $750.00 in fulll (mid-level) polish. There seems to be a lot of folks on the fence about this one, so please let me know if you are seriously interested. I am especially pleased with the shaping on this piece and I think it would be a nice addition to any collection. Thanks, Shannon
  4. This one is now $400.00 with mid-level polish included. For those that have inquired, this is a good time to get this one with a very expensive polish included. Thanks, Shannon
  5. This one is now $200.00 with mid-level polish included. Thanks, Shannon
  6. This one is now $300.00 with nice wooden handle and jyo-saya. Thanks, Shannon
  7. Bump! This one is for only $100.00, now. Thanks, Shannon
  8. Here I have available a very robust and powerfully-shaped wakizashi influenced heavily by the ichimonji-style during the nambokucho period: Here are the stats: nagasa: 21 3/4"" nakago: 5 1/2" motohaba: 1 7/16" kasane: 5/16" mune: iori-mune boshi: tsukiage w/ long kaeri sori: 9/16"--tori-sori (generous sori) hamon: midare with ashi in the Ichimonji style finish: binsuido Material is W2 differentially heat-treated with hamon. Tempered fully (medium hardness) as working blade/sword. Very nice and robust sugata with generous fumbari and nice shaping of the nakago and kiss
  9. Here I have available a very well-proportioned osoraku-zukuri in a longer tanto-length (smaller wakizashi length) with an impressive and robust presence: Here are the stats: nagasa: 14"" nakago: 4 3/8" motohaba: 1 5/16" kasane: just over 1/4" kissaki length: 9 5/16" mune: iori-mune boshi: tsukiage w/ long kaeri sori: right at 1/8", but appears greater hamon: choji-midare featuring billowy nioi-guchi and proficient ashi finish: binsuido Material is 1050 differentially heat-treated with hamon. Tempered fully (medium hardness) as working blade/sword. This is an aggressi
  10. I have a few blades laying around that I have just finished heat-treating and would like to sell at good prices. Here is a nice small tanto with really interesting activities: Here are the stats: nagasa: 7 1/8"" nakago: 3 7/16" motohaba: 1 1/8" kasane: 7/32" mune: iori-mune boshi: tsukiage w/ long kaeri sori: mu-zori hamon: choji-midare featuring billowy nioi-guchi and proficient ashi finish: binsuido Material is 1075 differentially heat-treated with hamon. Tempered fully (medium hardness) as working blade/sword. Blade is short but has a nice, strong presence. Addi
  11. I have a few blades laying around that I have just finished heat-treating and would like to sell at good prices. Here is a nice chef's knife that is in binsuido stone-finish. Here are the stats: cutting edge: 10 1/2"" width (widest spot): 1 3/8"" thickness: 1/8" tang length: 3 1/2" boshi: tsukiage w/ long kaeri hamon: choji-midare featuring billowy nioi-guchi and proficient ashi finish: binsuido Material is 1095, differentially heat-treated with hamon--tempered on the harder side to keep it keen for kitchen work. This would make a nice project blade. I can make a
  12. I recently had a very strange incident of a katana breaking during the quench right below the machi. Odd windy day and the forge needing more "tuning". I took the nakago and made this kiridashi. Here are the stats: cutting edge: 1 3/8" OAL: 5 1/2" thickness (at greatest point): 1/4" Material: W2--differentially hardened and tempered for fairly high RC Edge is shaped with stones and has binsuido finish appropriate for a working knife. Would be excellent for an edc or woodworking. Steel is colors of temper, but I can remove that at customer's request. This is just a nice litt
  13. JJ, Do you have the specs for this batch? Just curious, as I am kinda tracking how much the lower-manganese changes the results. Good looking knife. Looks like you grew some nie and possibly even some ara-nie in there. A ten minute soak on a hypo-eutectoid will do that. I think the hamon is technically "hotsure" in suguha, nie-deki. Funny, kinda looks like it has ayasugi-hada ala Gassan-school. As far as sheath, I would go with something practical with this hybrid style. Leather pocket it fits down into with a belt-loop. Just my humble opinion. Thanks for showing!
  14. No traditionally-trained togishi will admit he/she is using any acid or etching compound. It is considered shady and bad-form--a way to cheat the time it takes to do a really good stone polish. The black powder is kanahada or jitekko--suspended in oil with filtered leavings from uchigumori and they become nugui (kesho if kanahada is used, sashikomi if jitekko is used). It helps bring out the jihada and darken the hue of the steel. Looking up and learning nomenclature is integral to learning about Japanese style blades and nihonto. The terms are specific and make discussion about niho
  15. Q-1: What causes the lines in any pattern-welded blade? Carbon migration certainly occurs, which one would think would create a less-intense pattern in high-layer count blades (which DOES occur, to some extent). But there must be some amount of difference in the steel where it has de-carb'ed then been folded into higher-carbon steel. Possibly heating inside the charcoal forge creates a type of "case-hardening" effect that gets folded into the mix as well. Take into account that there is little if ANY soaking done in traditional Japanese forging and you negate at least a portion of the carb
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