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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on April 30 2019

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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    Galena,Alaska,USA
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  1. Very clean and controlled there,Rob;and good proportioning eye/blade/poll,too. Good for you to harden the poll too,neat little job altogether.
  2. Very nice forging,Gerald,yes,right on!:)
  3. It's a nice size eye...May not be easy to find a regular,hardware store handle in those dimensions.But you're in some good hickory country,and surely have your sources... Good luck,Alan,4140 will make a great drift;mild works,but gets damaged and needs fixing up with annoying regularity...So it'll be worth every effort you put into it. A photo of one of JA's drifts for inspiration- http://forgedaxes.com/blog/
  4. Alan,i don't know how close to any kind of historic context(if at all)you've aimed at,but i notice that most axes of similar pattern seem to have an added poll... https://cooperstoolmuseum.com/edge-tools/ In drawings it's not so easy to tell(above is only one of examples),but in surviving originals for the most part pretty sure there's more mass there... Any plans for adding a any,for balance or looks? Another thing i meant to ask is what do you know about the intended purpose for this pattern? Not that it isn't a neat shape in and of itself,just wondering...
  5. I think it's excellent hammer-control,Alan,wonderful,clean forging... Finding material for drifts Is a total botheration...i can totally relate...(as well as working without one,using whatever you got!:)
  6. P.S. Ironically,this iron was not without it's own connection to England...(was Anything,in Industrial Age?:) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lancashire_hearth
  7. Sweet,Aiden. You're hitting it very close to the holy Grail of axe-forging,minimum shaping by grinding.
  8. Hey Dan!:) No,i'd imagine that you're more likely to encounter some cruder,dirtier grades among the structural/architectural iron,even though they may pre-date this scene. At the time this video was shot the industrial world had already found cheaper substitutes for that good Swedish iron...Ironmaking in Sweden was dying(this particular smith unemployed and almost literally starving at that juncture),exports of iron or tools from Sweden down to almost nothing. Sweden had those lovely kinds of ore,+ centuries of experience in processing it,+ their coniferous charcoal...Both ore and charcoal pure as driven snow... But the world no longer had any use for it. A friend who uses an old Wira axe says that in sharpening,and even in handling the tool he can "feel" the loveliness of that iron...
  9. Yep,that's a standard operating procedure for me as well:Sketch on a pre-form with a soapstone,get rid of the main mass with a cut-off disc,grind the profile. Axes are an awkward bugger of a shape being so flat in one dimension,a bear to set down in that direction. Another bit of theory here:Most axes have a balance point somewhere 1/4" or so inside the eye(if you chuck a ruler or an old knife in a vise and balance the head across it).It makes an axe neutral,i.e. neither blade-,nor poll-heavy when hafted.Saves on some muscles in your hand/wrist... Yes,the top of the cutting edge is the Toe(bottom-Heel). Good for you,man,i think you're doing an excellent job.
  10. Aiden,right on,good job on welding that bit on. What you're ending up with is (not surprisingly)a GB type head,here's their average shape: Now,when you say "too tall",do you mean in that transition zone,between the eye and blade? If so,it's a natural effect of not beginning to control it soon enough,while in it's stubbier stage. It is challenging to edge-set an axe blade,but possible.If you have a large-ish radius on one of your anvil edges,place the inside corner of the bottom of the blade on it,and whack it from above,hard. (sorry if i misunderstood your point here). In general,that was a common feature in many Swedish/Norsk axes,the height at poll was bigger than at base of blade,(it was done quite deliberately,for balance). Sometimes,especially when it was fairly radical forged-in diff.,it was done with a special,dedicated forked/cleft chisel type of tool...But in milder cases like GB pictured above an anvil edge would do. Good job on controlling All factors/parameters so far,none of this is easy....
  11. Aiden,another thought for you:You'd probably (eventually)have to come up with a different drift. (I know only too well what a pain it is to come up with big enough chunk of steel...AND all the work to make something like that...:(....) But,that taper in plan view,fore and aft as oriented in the axe,it's not quite the "thing". The front and back of the eye should really be parallel with each other...That is the reason that your haft was so shy of filling the top of eye. Possibly you can modify just the very top of your drift?The parallel-sided section only needs to be really just a bit over half the eye height in length,and it can be at the very top,and applied right towards the end of shaping sequence. Alan has also brought up a rather important point-the section of the eye does not necessarily be that of a modern felling axe(something weighing 3+lbs and swung hard on the end of a 3' haft). Many bench/carpenter/et c.axes were hafted in a surprisingly modest cross-section of haft,in spite of some of them being quite heavy. It's perfectly appropriate in any type of axe that is used mostly one-handed,and in a more exact,precise,calculated sort of way(bench work).
  12. Right on,Chris,glad you enjoyed it!:) Here's another cool video pertaining to overlaying the bit: Here the bit is not pre-shaped,also it appears to be more modest in size... One must remember though that in Sweden of the time re-steeling an axe was a common and accepted procedure(kinda periodic,like re-soling a pair of decent boots). So the eye and poll of an axe was viewed as a permanent part(small wonder,it';s not easy to forge),while the bit was disposable. That is one of the reasons that there isn't really hard and fast rule for the angle of convergence of an axe blade....It was a sliding kinda deal....
  13. Right ON,Aiden! Fantastic job on pre-forging that bit steel,that's exactly what is called for. Obviously your basic forging skills are up to speed,so i'm sure you'll figure out the corresponding shapes et c. that are called for for that weld. "Stubby" is one of the hardest criteria to judge.It looks like you're right in the ball-park,if anything-not stubby enough.Extra length is(can often be) a challenge to control. Right on,Joshua,yes,ain't it something...There's a Lot of energy that goes into forging an axe head...(And grinding...uff...:( Aiden is Very wise in his attempts to keep it all under 2#...I often end up pushing 3,and that one pound of steel is critical in kicking one's ass...:(
  14. P.S. As an historical example,here's an old classic filmed about the process at E&S,Maine....overlayed bit at about 4:00...it may not be quite as massive as i write above,but these guys have their process down,et c.,et c......
  15. Aiden,it's looking really good,nice length/height eye slit,lots of potential there. I'll make a suggestion that may be hard to follow,but here goes just in case:When thinning down the "cheeks"-the sides of eye-watch that valley/divot that will be trying to form between the eye and poll.To keep it from getting out of control you may try to not let it get too deep.... An "outie",or an "overlayed" bit is a commonly practiced technique,actually more common than an inserted bit in most US axes in 20th century. However,i'm not sure if bent flat stock will give you enough mass in the end...(for everything-the forging initially,and trimming,and decarb,and grinding,et c.,et c...). Most commonly an overlay was shaped out of a thicker chunk,maybe 3/4" or so thick,with outer edges fullered off and bent down to form a U. Much like you Did do,but more mass in the center.... All the Very best of luck tho man,you're doing great!
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