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jake pogrebinsky

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. Darn it,Rob,that's harsh,yeah....Good for you though to challenge yourself with such risky shapes,beautifully thin section on that one....
  2. Hmm...Well,there's lots to what you guys say.Leather can of course be used in any number of creative ways. All Northern people were great innovators and engineers,and they sure did like laminating stuff...Wood and sinew and baleen and ivory all went into the sandwich,duct-taped with birch bark smeared with fish glue... (the characters i camp with here,when PR with the Inuit was particularly bad,and trade for sealskin boots not an option,used to laminate moose-hide with layers of spruce pitch,to make it in some marginal way usable for soling boots...). And we do have those Ugric jobs in the main thread with that same stand-off wooden part pierced with some sort of lashing holes,too many for suspension... Also here the rim of a birch-bark basket is reinforced with roots(and sinew+pitch in the past) in such a manner as to make that pretty stiff,and long-lasting...
  3. Right on,Billy!I totally share in this very sort of "utilitarian shamanism"(as Nikolay puts it:) I'm being cavalier only because i'm but a passing visitor in this knife-making world!:)...But you're entirely right,that's asking for it... Darn it,Alan,i dunno...Everything(almost,obviously)about this design screams "function". And,when lacking history,archaeology,et c.,and we must go out on that conjectural limb,Function is one of the good threads in that maze(or can be). Those guys were always very athletic.I see why their sheaths are wood,i can picture how they body-slam that deer,and what could happen if the knife wasn't correctly shielded... So many other separate factors are similar.Handle-comfortably bulky,soft/warm wood,no decoration to trap grime,a slight conical section to wedge in the mouth of the scabbard like a cork,to keep the crap out and of course to retain your knife during any kind of gymnastics... Same as the single-point suspension,ditto,stemming from functional factors. So a soft-ish(oiled or in any way treated hide would be pliable to some degree) material surrounding the insertion port...I can just imagine having to feel with your fingers down to the knife-point to guide it properly down into scabbard...:( (for years i used a moosehide sheath i made for belt knife,it was just that kind of dysfunction... and i actually ended up loosing the knife because of atmospheric-related looseness issues with it:)) Casting my pea-brain about the World's knives,seems like great many are filed in scabbards in rigid materials primarily...If leather is used it's often secondary,as covering...(i may be Way off,not like i'm super informed on knife history..).
  4. Man,that fuller is looking great,totally controlled,deliberate looking fuller,that.Fantastic. I presume that you used the cut-off disc and grinder both free-style?Nice job on the use of all these tools. That cutter looks even better now that i see how thick it is.Very good decision with the inline handle orientation,my experiment with transverse handle was a poor solution. Brilliant move to reduce the thickness afterwards,too. Great work,Aiden,thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills and ideas.Very inspiring,tons to learn and to think about! (LOTS of good stuff above on design,modern and not so,thanks;very much worth taking some time to mull it over).
  5. Thanks,guys:) I got that thing all metalled-up...And i tell you what-this design is something that is ancient,i'm convinced now. It is like a pebble,that was smoothed over perfectly by uncountable oceans of human experience... For me to Not screw something up takes something like Divine Providence,and all these processes so far went off without a hitch...Not even a hint of treachery,whatever came out flawed was perfectly foreseeable,and was not prevented due to my laziness or lack of focus Only. It's crazy,i've never done a single project that went This smoothly before This was what that kerf came out looking like as i took the cord bondage off.It went a long way towards coming together,in just one night's drying. Now if i wanted to make it appear seamless,i could've run a flat needle file in that crack to lap it perfectly,but i'm a slob,and am interested in where it'd go naturally,on it's own,so i don't do nuffink to it. . At the last moment i realise i forgot to bore the suspension orifice...I used a drill,and even filed the shape smooth afterwards,but i sure didn't Need to-the tip of that knife could've accomplished this easily(if maybe not so accurately,not that it matters here). Working with that brass shim stock turned out to be very easy(no idea how thick it is,i'd guess .025?). Marked it by wrapping it in place,gave it maybe 5/16" for flanges and locking seam(eyeballed those distances but used a straight edge for lines). Made the bends over a sharp edge of a plank,flattened those flanges nicely.(metal gets doubled-over at all edges except the very bottom that just gets flushed up). Photo of top piece flanges bent and hammered but the locking edges not shaped yet: Then it just all freaking went on...Practically in spite of all my attempts to mess it up...Look how ridiculously,undeservedly smooth and even and regular it all is: This last photo shows that kerf,now closed.As i said above,if i bothered about lapping it,or simply cleaning it down to fresh wood,it'd be literally invisible. (i rarely do clean kind of woodwork;all my tools are badly contaminated with scale,burned waste oil residue,charcoal dust...from my forge,that Black Hole of Calcutta,crap propagates to all other corners of my messy establishment...:(..): The knife has Beautiful locking/release action...Yet another ridiculously fortuitous thing in the run of them,feels utterly Undeserved (and Is,i'm a slob).So yet again,this is a literally fool-proof design. I still got some trimming to do at mouth there,and those pricked-in designs(to help the metal adhere to the wood),and the suspension loop too.And as i work on all that i'll keep on wondering:Wassup with this tin stuff,what did it replace?! Was it always metal(not like these guys were not capable of making thin sheets;half the ornaments sewn onto Evenki shaman's garb are of forged sheet)? Or did this WWII/Lend-lease era tin replaced some other material?Birch bark,with it's exposed rim finished in some manner?.. (it wasn't leather;Nikolay specifically warns against tying knots in babiche thong that forms suspension,it gets wet and comes loose;so rawhide couldn't have been relied on to keep the knife in place).
  6. And so we embark,to make a sheath based on method shown by N.Aboimov,as has been shown him by the tundra Evenki. I've barely,kinda/sorta enough of this same birch left from making a handle,and will try to use it as i So much liked the way it carved...lovely soft evenly-grained wood. If i screw this up i've plenty of spruce,which will be more traditional anyway,and more practical being lighter and stiffer. Through a slot sawn along one side i keep cutting and sawing more wood out for the blade till i can insinuate it deep enough to scribe the bolster on the face of that standing-off part: I was too lazy and spaced out to've put any kind of an edge on the knife yet,it has a couple sharpish sections though,and works Great for practically all these operations,Very much as advertised.Brilliant design based on the very knife that we're working on here. So on like this till the knife is bedded enough: I Really like this process,and method itself appeals to the way i myself like to do stuff.It's very "conservative",for lack of better term.Similarly i always leave the end of a board wild untill i'm ready to make that final decision,or leave the nailing off of a structure till i square and level it,et c.This has a similar risk-free factor,the outside is done last allowing you to adjust it to whatever expedients you've maybe had to resort to shaping the inside. Top view of a still-square,axe-finished blank: But finally i Am ready to shape the outside...and indeed it was the most pleasant process...Here's where i Really could've used the knife itself,but it only has the lousiest pre-edge on it,and i'm a bit concerned with having to stretch them tin parts on in a bit here,so just use a drawknife...The tool-kit has been totally minimal,it could easily have been just that knife,but i Am in the village vs camp,and like the rich white guy i am exercise my prerogative and use my drawknife!:) (other than that i only used a short Stanley "Short-cut" and my utility knife that i seem to use for everything...and a pencil... And now one more action-as instructed by Nikolay i lash the deal with some nylon cord,tying clove-hitches gradually squeezing that slot tight.It works fine,and i'll let it hang over the woodstove for the night to let it get used to it's new shape,before fitting the tin parts....
  7. Far out,James. Super honest,clean forging...Love those welds on wings...Excellent job,congrats on going the distance on a project of such scope and complexity... Far out,James. Super honest,clean forging...Love those welds on wings...Excellent job,congrats on going the distance on a project of such scope and complexity...
  8. Yes,very much so. Now,i'm sure that the similarity between these knives and seaxes is not lost on you,Alan,of all people! Leaving the history and technical details aside,i'll go ahead and say that these Are the actual archtypal seaxes. That universal appeal the seaxes have,everyone tries to find their own path to that.I think that Aiden's choice is very wise-strike at the very ancient,the subconscious,the ethnic memory,if you will. It helps build and strengthen immunity to much of the trite,the formulaeic,the distracting influences of all the hollywood-ish imagery our information landscape is so littered with. Any maker needs that to remain creative. Afterall,a good shaman must be good at accessing the Lower world,directly!:)
  9. That's some beautiful wood.And not only that,but getting it yourself is an extremely valuable lesson/training/meditation on Physics of it all. Same goes for your admirable experiments with tars and resins and all that stuff. I really believe there's a Huge amount of validity in your pursuing these paths.It's basically going back to the Source,a real education that is based on the solid foundation of previous experience,as any advanced knowledge must be. Without it it's easy to loose your way. Moden knifemaking is following a bunch of rabbit-trails that i think will end up being dead-ends,those cold,slippery,heavy handle materials,plasticised wood,all that will drop off i think as an unviable,idea-based stuff only. Things for us humans must be rooted deeper,in that they'd appeal to deeper more basic neurological processes. The looks alone of an "interesting" handle materials(i'm thinking of all the oily tropical exotics) is not enough,it don't "satisfy" on the more complex levels. Like it or not our brains process the incoming information based on more than mere ideas,it needs to be more solid than that. Yes,even that smell of resin is yet another important factor-maybe it tells our brain that this compound is a bacteria- or bug-repellent...I dunno,and it's not necessarily about any rational deconstructing either. I just think you're hitting some important neurological signifiers with this work,AND doing a very good job of it as well. Respect.
  10. Ground the tip back to where i can easily and reliably drill through a 1x...And if need be it can be done again...I Did like the look of that break,even through a 10x prospector's glass couldn't see individual grains(somehow managed to get a tiny bit of WI even that far out to tip...that looked weird under magnification,very dirty:). Then again following Aiden's example wedged and epoxied the blade in,photo of dry fit: After epoxy set somewhat cleaned up excess,and whittled the handle down to about what it needs to be;may cut it down shorter still,i'll see... My sneaky plan with that one check didn't fly,it didn't get glued up,and maybe even grew longer overnight in spite of my having given the wood a couple coats thin raw linseed oil(thinned with lots of mineral spirits). I think i'm a nitwit,and that check is old,i've just taken my chunk out too close to the end of that piece of firewood:) But,it ain't a pie'ano,as they say,and we'll deal with it if it becomes too much of an issue later.Meanwhile i'm itching to start on the sheath...
  11. Beautiful job on that knife,Rob,real sweet shape,nice and warm and tactile-looking:) Congratulations on that great new tool,man,it must be an exciting addition to your tool-set,opening up all sorts of new and wonderful possibilities! It's a challenging tool,that one.Not so much for getting used to it,though it takes some doing and time,but tools That cool have a strong tendency to influence our design.,You've a wonderful eye for line and shape,don't let it mess with that,show it who's the boss:)
  12. Excellent job on both of these,Aiden,congrats. You've done a great job translating original designs into this REALLY clean lines+finish of your responsible,modern process-Not an easy thing to do,either to envision or to execute. So the best of both worlds,i think,the beauty utility cool-factor of originals preserved,and indeed improved upon in modern materials. Doesn't get much better.
  13. The learning process is progressing most productively,i'm doing most of the stuff i'm not supposed to do,and results are very educational. I left the handle very bulky hoping that it'll have an easier time reconciling with it's new shape,but it started checking anyway. That's perfectly fine since i'm doomed to using epoxy on this one anyway,and that epoxy will hold everything together. I went ahead and shaped the handle a bit closer,which allowed me to experiment with actually using the tool. Here's an important concept that hasn't come up yet(i don't think).It may be hard to tell from my crap photo,but the idea is to orient the blade in the handle a few degrees Off(short vertical line is the axis of handle,and maybe you can see those few degrees of deviation in plane from that of the blade). That is done(by some)to ease the motion of using a single-bevel knife.It automatically orients it with the Median of it's combined angle towards the work,at natural wrist position(does it make any sense?): I'll use these hose clamps to control checking for now,and once ready to epoxy i'll relax them to allow epoxy enter the checks and tighten to glue it all up. Meanwhile,since i can now kinda use the knife,i'm following through on Aiden's sage advice and experiment with it best i can. Broke off the tip drilling a pine 1x,which is Very cool in a number of ways:It was Way too thin anyway,and i got to see How it broke:It bent very easily over,and snapped almost immediately at attempting to be bent back. I was beginning to think that it may be too hard yet,but now this tells me it's about right,i think.There's plenty length to re-grind the blade another even time or two...And,i got to see the grain-looks perfectly fine and satisfactory to me... I'm having a good time with this,it's a very practical,down to earth process,very enjoyable. Tons to learn!:)
  14. Aiden,thanks-this is a Lot of really cool,sound,useful advice...That's great,I'll keep on thinking about all these things you bring up. I'm very happy to hear that you mean to venture into cutler resins,good for you man!I think aside from practical issues it also adds soul,some more of that intangible "cool factor". Btw,one point about resin sealants that rarely comes up is Hygene.Not only it seals any minute cracks where that deadly to us Anaerobic bacterium can find refuge from the large/predatory/symbiotic with us airborne yeasts (that eat them),but also many volitile compounds in these resins act as an antiseptic,or even antibacterial substance. Birch tar,say,used in medicine to cover extended burns,et c.(pine or spruce resins as well contain similar antibiotic compounds to n-th extent). Some of these cutler's resins will preserve the wood of the handle as well as keeping it safe for work around food. I badly wanted to experiment,and may yet(though i lack your systematic,patient,rational approach).But also have none on hand,and would like to get this handled so that i can play with it to see how it Works,and to do it's own sheath,hopefully. I'm just lazy-woods around abound in resins...But still too much snow on the ground,be a pain to set up an extractor for birch tar,and though i can easily access spruce pitch it'd take a while to dial-up consistency/viscosity/drying time...
  15. You're happening,man.Nice and thorough and systematic,very cool.I think all these will turn out great,and will be very interesting to hear what'll you think once they're in your hand,being real knives. I like that scraper,neat job on that,right on!
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