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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on March 15

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. Yes,Rob,i like that a lot. For skinning these fat-bellied kind of blades are sweet(actually looks very much like a butcher knife i use,only shorter,which will be easier on one's wrist). Most "hunting" knives are narrower,and also commonly have the section close to that of a crowbar or a cold-chisel. It puzzled me for ages,till i finally figured out it must come from the time when people had actually took their game apart at the joints(vs molesting it into shreds and chips with saws and god knows what all). It does help to be narrower and thick-ish to get in between t
  2. Good for you,Aiden,for searching around those databases,cool stuff. Yes,in general it was always said that Any handled tool at all can be handled perfectly straight(the physics dictate that,afterall). Something that complicates this equation is when the tool is purposed very narrowly,and requires certain repositioning of the grip,like running your fingers down the neck of a guitar to play a certain riff-sometimes the curvature makes it more automatic/convenient. Also a factor was always the Hereditary nature of tool usage:You grew up using certain shape of h
  3. You're right,Aiden,in all you say. but actually,(and ironically),this- is exactly Why the conical fit was employed so widely and for so long,it made for things to be able to come apart automatically,on their own. Most axes "back then" were used of of doors,exposed to all weathers. If a properly tightened hourglass-shaped tongue gets wet,it almost always would compress the wood fibers past it's elastic limit-i.e. crush them.It has no place to go.Such haft can never again be made tight but can only be fixed by replacement. But that conical
  4. Right on,Alan,and i've finally come across it's real name- "käärmekiila":)
  5. P.S. Oh hey,managed to see your photos-Great job! Very cool drawknife,right on. I'm also an adept of using a drawknife on hafts,and then leaving them as is.Firmly believe in the rightness of a blade-finished wood in such cases(better sealed surface). I have just put some time in using a friend's axe that i hafted for him with a drawknife-finished octagonal hickory,and those facets kinda sucked on bare hands;but that's hickory. Birch is much softer,and there ain't no law against breaking the sharp facets with a bit of sandpaper either i suppose...
  6. Aiden,thanks for the update,sounds like you're on it,man.Good job. My connection sucks so bad today i can't see your photos,but bet you're getting it. Some thoughts,in a very general sense: * I always have a tough time cleaning up the inside of the eye,especially in the more complexly-welded axes(kinda wished for a set of conical or whatever boring bits for the drill,or something like that,for a while now). It normally turns into a few hours with files,and because of all that scale and molten flux et c. they can't really be your favorite,nicer kind of files ei
  7. This is what i meant by the straight hafts of a number of Scandinavian carpenter's axes: Second one from bottom;and "straight" is only approx. idea,it can actually sway back depending on how much is it of a hewing implement: (shown is actually a type of a Norwegian axe,bootlegged by this very skilled Mordorese smith but you get the idea:)) That little bit of a longer collar on yours,Aiden,puts it a little closer (yet,the two are close as it is) to Finnish kirves. Here's a photo of a Swedish Wetterlings-produced for the Finnish market.The ow
  8. I think you're doing an EXCELLENT job of it so far. You May consider doing just a bit more forging on the very edge,to bring it out further and keener. (many an older example we see are fairly worn down). Forging will get you "there" quicker and less painfully than grinding.But also that's just me,i think both your skill and the facilities for removal are way superior. 2+lb head on these is just about perfect;maybe more perfect for the woods kind of axe than a bench kind,but Well within Hoyle. Birch would be the right material for haft(this eye sha
  9. Good for you,Joshua,you're wise to carefully study this unique historical record...(so rare,man...). I too try to watch it as often as i can,as my (worthless)reception allows. At this juncture i can barely manage this text,so can't follow up on your times and frames. But yes,i seem to remember that just like you say-he bends in the back of collar,and catching some minute irregularity in the poll corners scrunches up material to ledge it over the anvil edge and work it...(the man is a freaking Paganini...he's over 80 in that video too,you know...). Related to this,the entire
  10. Aiden,i'm sure you've seen this,but just in case-here's C.F.Dahlgren forging one in on film,at Wira in 1923: He doesn't isolate any extra mass at poll(he must add it late by welding,which unfortunately seems missing from footage). Of things i noticed that are important is that his match of drift/volume inside eye must be pretty close. He later also works on inside of eye quite a bit,using also another drift for top of eye. I'm not entirely sure what type eye these came with;possibly it was very old style inverse cone(based on principle much like that used in tools with Mor
  11. Aiden,good for you for taking this on. I've only tried some elements of this here and there,so not much experience of my own. (Jim Austin though has a great break-down of this on his blog). I want to say that your transition poll to collar is Way too sharp(for any forging in general even...is that where it cracked? if so than probably why). Your original doesn't have that-it's flush on the cheeks(was even in pre-form;once formed,such transition will never forge back in flush). It(your original) does have the corners of poll left thick in pre-form,but only
  12. Gentleman posted this on a neighboring site,a find in cultivating agricultural land. (a bit further South from you,Alan,but SE US). Appears to be a shingling hatchet;with a hammer-poll and a set of false bevels on the one(the bevel)side of of course a single-bevel blade. The WI nature of material is quite evident,and the difference between the 5 components. Photo of the bevel side: ...and one from top: The materials and construction date it pretty far back,but i also get the sense that it was machine-mad
  13. Darn it,Rob,that's harsh,yeah....Good for you though to challenge yourself with such risky shapes,beautifully thin section on that one....
  14. Hmm...Well,there's lots to what you guys say.Leather can of course be used in any number of creative ways. All Northern people were great innovators and engineers,and they sure did like laminating stuff...Wood and sinew and baleen and ivory all went into the sandwich,duct-taped with birch bark smeared with fish glue... (the characters i camp with here,when PR with the Inuit was particularly bad,and trade for sealskin boots not an option,used to laminate moose-hide with layers of spruce pitch,to make it in some marginal way usable for soling boots...). And we do have those Ugric
  15. Right on,Billy!I totally share in this very sort of "utilitarian shamanism"(as Nikolay puts it:) I'm being cavalier only because i'm but a passing visitor in this knife-making world!:)...But you're entirely right,that's asking for it... Darn it,Alan,i dunno...Everything(almost,obviously)about this design screams "function". And,when lacking history,archaeology,et c.,and we must go out on that conjectural limb,Function is one of the good threads in that maze(or can be). Those guys were always very athletic.I see why their sheaths are wo
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