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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on November 30 2023

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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    Galena,Alaska,USA
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  1. Joshua, I'm totally with you...I only have one nice old cross-cut hand saw that i use(and a two-man in the cache that is used but rarely),and half expect to one day be looking at maybe cutting up something as nice or nicer even... I do hate destroying any old tool,it always makes me think:"Could i Make one like it?",and the answer is always resounding No...:( But we all have ways we temporise... The Golden Age of American toolmaking had produced So many saws that the predators still today buy them wholesale at estate sales,make their money selling on one or two rare exceptional ones to collectors,and offering the stripped blades of whats left in lots of a dozen or so to whomever,cheap(-ish). I have a friend who makes uluaq for a living and who buys such lots,and when in need of one i go and bum an odd blade from him. I was always of two minds about producing anything that is essentially a Native design,and so only dabble at it but rarely,for an odd gift here and there... Ironically,as much processing of meat and especially fish for drying and what not that i do , I've never got a hang of using this local form of tool. It takes some practice to be both competent and comfortable with it.
  2. A glue joint on a handle of California redwood(nice soft/warm/grippy stuff for the purpose). This is a slightly different kind of knife,for use in skin-sewing,but the principle is the same as the uluaq.
  3. P.S.The magic of the old h.t. onany old saws kept to that fine balance between the spring temper and the edge-holding ability. That left many of them fairly brittle,enough so to where if you score a line with a file it'll break right on it. Thats how many an oldtimer worked in the past,but i find the cutoff discs handy,they only overheat a negligible distance in from the cut.
  4. Aiden,anymore i went to mostly a tow-piece handle,with a blind locator pin or two. A decent blade on a tablesaw gives one a glue-joint that's almost invisible(depending on color/grain pattern of wood of course). I personally never had much luck making a recess by milling,at least not neat enough for my liking. It also makes for somewhat of a problem to locate the pins accurately,but that's negligeable. The reason for my technical difficulties is that i most often make such knives for use as intended,on local meat and fish,and as such they Hugely benefit from being as thin as possible,in part because of the inherent slight flex. My choice of material is a carpenter's saw as old as possible,not only because the steel back then was fantastic(some are actually crucible material),but also because the older ones were taper-ground:That gives you an option of distal taper. Also,many old saws already have the oxide layer that i like to preserve,its stable,and lovely in color and texture. (Obviously it makes sense to work this mat'l in such a way as to preserve the original h.t.,good luck trying to get something that skinny heated evenly,et c.). The problem with an untidy handle recess is if course hygiene,as small fragments of whatever will get in there and putrefy. The old originals used some type of cutlers resin,which often doubled as glue that held the blade to the handle. I've seen some sealed with the actual Seal:)(the red stuff the postal packages were sealed with),and some other that i couldnt i.d.,but darker(probably charcoal filler). The resin in all of these is nice and anti-bactetial,to keep things safeer from all that microbial action.....
  5. From_the_North_Eastern_to_Central_Europe.pdf (I'm being haunted by an Academia.edu logarithm and misery loves company...but do let me know if it's not enough of a reason to plague all o' youse with it too...).
  6. You Are a barbarian, Joshua, (the word "barbarian" being evocative of all those incomparable Hunnic gold ornaments and Carolingian cloisonne and so many other examples of barbarity now in world's museums,to me at least :)).
  7. Doug,i don't want to sound cavalier about this,but something tells me that i'd not really be rocket science to accomplish. I'd shape the old trimmed edge first (using chisels + cape chisel+ triangle file to true up), then scribe it onto a still-square section of future new edge and likewise shape it with hand tools (today,in reality i'd use a cut-off disc for majority of waste removal). Once some degree of close fit is achieved it's possible that just some judicious flat-forging may be enough to lock the corresponding parts together; that i'm not certain about and that lovely example above does appear to've been welded. At some late-ish stage of the American "Golden Age" of tool-making there was a patent registered where replaceable edge system was designed,based on a single wide dovetail. (of course forgot who/when/et c.,but distinctly remember seeing the patent pages...).
  8. Stumbled across this by accident and shamelessly copied it from here: vintage axe stricker - Bing images Ain't it cute though? And what do you guys think that is,a repair? Machined cold and then welded,maybe? (Stricker was such a somber Pennsylvania "Dutch" maker,so hard to imagine him caught at any kind of frivolity :))
  9. Right on,guys,so glad that the link works,and we all can see that material. Frankly,i don't know what to "make" of it,so many European patterns represented there (practically all known?) Couple-three typologies mentioned that i never even heard of...and a strong realization of knowing way too little of metalwork in Ireland...
  10. Geoff,sorry about this,let me try a different way: Antiquities_from_the_River_Blackwater_II.pdf
  11. Antiquities_from_the_River_Blackwater_II.pdf
  12. Thanks,Joshua,good stuff! I've played with steam a little,love it to bits.
  13. Excellent job,i Really like the overall lines,and that gentle bend of the handle is sweet! i'd guess that it'll prove to be a most useful tool. The radius of that blade is somewhat more moderate than majority of "carving" axes,that should give it more authority,less muscle effort needed to guide it. Anyway,good going,a very fine tool there.
  14. NICE work,Kris,right on!!!! "Challenge" is an apt topic description!:}
  15. I'm with Joshua,i found this thread too late and Aiden is pretty well embarked by now. Looking good there,Aiden,i think there's a good chance it'll make a great tool! It's difficult to generalize about "carving" axes,as the many jobs involving carving wood are very diverse,and the species of trees worked,And the many styles in which such work is done. The only two points come to mind as more/less shared are the more pronounced radius of blade,and the more open configuration of the hang. The radius issue depends on the curvaceous-ness of work performed-the more radical radius minimizes the edge contact zone,while keeping the heel and toe of the edge further/safer distance away from unintended cuts. The openness of hang is often combined with a gentle sweep of handle Backwards,allowing for further controlling that issue. The single-,vs double-bevel edge also has to do with the degree of curve expected to be encountered in work: Single-bevel tool is more "aggressive" (takes less energy to keep it embedded in material). However,in cutting it describes an arc going down into the material(when used bevel-up). If the radius of that part of carving allows it-great,if not the tool will dig-in jarringly. So a double-bevel edge is more versatile option as capable of carving a tighter radius,or dealing with more contrariness of grain. The poll on carving axes is normally moderate to non-existent,unless you're including hewing axes in general (meant for much larger work where the added mass is handy),many carving axes are poll-less. It'd depend some of how much work is done in a horizontal plane-the extra mass of poll is often used in felling axes,say,where it balances the tool in lateral movement(takes less energy on your part to keep the blade from diving due to gravity). When mostly chopping up and down direction an axe benefits more from it's mass concentrated in the blade,where gravity directs it like it does a radically-unbalanced dog-headed hammer. But sometimes a poll is present. One of very popular carving axes is made by Svante Djarv,it has a poll (maybe in part due to the slit&drifted eye). Robin Wood axe is essentially that ancient Rhinelander pattern,an all-purpose basic axe that evolved out of all sorts of wood-chopping chores. You're doing fine,Aiden,and will figure things out as you go from this point. For future reference,or just curiosity,you may want to check out some Djarv axes,also some by Karlsson,and the fairly recent one by Julia Kalthoff...And maybe the iconic one by Stefan Ronnqvist where all the physics are truly radicalized... Kalthoff: S.Djarv: https://thespooncrank.com/svante-djarv/ Karsson: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/434667801522852305/ Ronnqvist: http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9
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