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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on October 22

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. jake pogrebinsky

    San Mai WIP

    Thanks for the explanation.Again,beautiful material,good for you,it takes cohones and Much work, to get into such neat composites.
  2. jake pogrebinsky

    San Mai WIP

    Beautiful patterns in that material(-s),and such neat job....So,that is C diffused into SS a certain way?...And randomised by forging,or diffusion itself is randomly purty like dat? Lovely looking steel in any case,right on!
  3. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Absolutely try doing that then.Aim for the Minimum of air to raise any given heat. And if it takes longer(within reason,of course),so much the better.There's lots of thinking and planning to be done between heats.
  4. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Hmm...Well,running it full blast even shortly,while raising the heat,may well be too much... There's a number of ways one can make a slide,or a gate valve...(slot the pipe and slide in a piece of tin with a wedge-shaped opening cut in it,to make it adjustable?). But for an experiment you can just block the intake on the fan itself with a piece of cardboard or whatnot... Ducting is plenty good for the air system...I have an awful mess myself,made of ducting,tinfoil,duct-tape and such crap...(i actually had duct-tape start melting and smoking and stinking yesterday,first time ever!:)...not sure why...).But my blower is hand-cranked and Very adjustable. Best of luck,man,it'll all settle into a sensible pattern for ya,always kinda rough at the first.You're doing good.
  5. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Andy,i think that maybe your main trouble comes from running that blower unrestricted...It's WAY too much air for what you're doing... A quick&dirty way to check would be to restrict the Intake on the blower itself with a pivoting plate of some sort(or even tinfoil as an experiment). Ideally you'll have a slide-valve of whatever kind in one of sections of pipe connecting that blower.... Also,if you could get a bucket of ash,i'd try piling it into the drum on two sides,to make your fire more of a trough,closer shaped to the work you're trying to do... That's,generally,how forging worked,you shaped your fire to the work.Depending on the fuel and other factors it was done in a number of ways.Like those that work with soft bituminous coal shape the fire with wetted green coal,allowing it to dry and moving it in towards the fire as need dictates. Your anthracite is loose,much like coke,and not coking sort itself.So you'll have to use something else to shape your fire.Ash, kitty-litter ,any other kind of clay/dirt...Got any driller friends?Ask them for half a bucket of drilling mud... It none of it has to be purty Or permanent...Like this one crazy person i used to know said :"High-tech Principle/Low-tech Application".Much in forging science is just like that.
  6. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Hurray!Into the utmost Weirdom! Strap 3/8" x 1" folded with yet another same,so in inch sq. in front of eye... And between welding, and forging to shape,and fullering off the blade part it is now about 3/4" by maybe a 1/2"...(do we really loose That much in translation?:( ....AND,with all that beef there i Still fought them weld-seam sand one of them Still appears to have a hairline separation...(there ought to be a Law...:( I'm frankly having whiny thoughts of wading into some bum mild...it was engendered by the Dump...it could've been leftovers from the latest const. project,airport runway ,equipment repair and the dread AR plate...(what IS in AR-grade to make it abrasion resistant?). Anyway,it's just a toy,for a friend's 11-year old...
  7. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Alan,i had to revisit the pipe hawk today.My friend for whom it was started really wants it regardless,so i went to see what all i can do to make it in any way presentable,before i HT and finish it (in whatever manner). Pipe was the first concern.Look at the funky automotive body-work hammer-head i happened to have: Looked to be about the ticket,and pretty much was.(Was i to make a habit of this it'd be easy to reforge as a hardy tool).Just used it as punch,which gave a decent conical shape inside... I didn't get to test that Petersen trick of drawing edges of the bowl down.Just punched it with a normal hole punch,then this funky gizmo,and it gave me enough room then to take it to the tip of the horn...(there i just octagonized it and quit;wish i had the time to screw around with it for much longer,but...).Corrected the fuller afterwards,and called it good,even though it looks a bit too much like a common hex-nut ....ah well... My second and probably main concern was that ugly crack. Not wanting to dedicate the time and energy to reforging the entire deal i had an idea i wanted to try. I cleaned out the crack(with a hack-saw blade + one of those knife-shaped files,not sure the name of it...Then i made a right shape of a wedge,heated the main body,fluxed the crack,and jammed the wedge in there using a punch and a drift,really forced it in. It all welded up ok...All in all,for being a sort of a sweeping dirt under the carpet kinda thang,it came out better than i expected...Certainly beats that butt-crack...:( (top and bottom views): ...and as i started filing quickly improved even more...Anyway,i must run with it.And,i think i'll still stick 3 rivets of 3/16" brazing rod there through that junctureto reinforce it further(god knows why,for all the ugly it was a fairly sound joint),and for the Bling-factor. I'm frankly surprised that the bowl-flange weld took all that abuse...Now i kinda regret not having the time or werewithal to white-smith this whole deal,it certainly has the beef to spare for it,was Intended to be ground down.. But i think i'll try to finish it with much forged surfaces retained,a look saying:"yes,it was bootlegged at some local forge,but kinda competently,not Too sloppy"... It does have a decent chunk of 1095 for the edge,good welds there,too,and it hardened nicely...So it's not totally without merit.
  8. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Alan,thanks. Yes,this method is legit,challenging but tres rewarding...(it's another step on the way to forging a goosewing...provided i live long enough...:) Blending welds...the bane of my existence...The entire point of all this diabolical exercises is of course exploring Forge welding.... I'm doing the best i can,and at this point you'd think that i knew what i'm about...I wonder if i'm hitting the "ceiling" somewhere...The BTU's contained in spruce?My method of making charcoal(i'm pushing the volitiles issue in the Japanese manner,the best i can,i doubt i can improve it more....)....Just sheer Volume of my fire?... Whatever it is i seem to have a tough time getting things hot enough...And trying to push T oxidises them thin edges first,of course,therefore the lousy blending.
  9. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Wow,Alan,that was a struggle and a half....Ending in a total fiasco. I shorted that socket pre-form in width,which disallowed the drift to pass the entire way. It don't work without a drift,too complex a shape to air-forge...(a bad habit of mine,as i likes trying all these different types of axes,and am Way too lazy to forge a drift for each and every one...). So it was looking crappier and crappier,the material of the blade pushing into what little space there was inside the eye...Till finally,welding on that little "counterweight"-poll,i smashed the last of the opening all the way shut...:( And man was it one ugly,murthered forging at that point!I was just too tired to think,or would've quit long before that point...Crappy feeling that,loosing a patient... (actually,a number of the uglier contorted details were very reminiscent of very old,Medeaval woodchopper axes,and some very old,village-smith-made Piilukirves...interesting...) So this morning i carved up the corpse with a disc-grinder,it was kinda fun,and very educational.Broke what welds i could by cold-forging,and the ones that wouldn't come apart i just welded back into the blade section.Surprisingly,welding was not the issue.All but about an 1"+ of the socket-weld were good... So i kept the blade piece,and made a new socket.This time i didn't forge out any thick piece but just used 1/4" plate...Previous one ended up a bit under 3/16" and i didn't like how tinny that seemed...(and made it hard to weld,cools off too quickly). 1/4" is too thick,i think,but this Is an exploration... And after 7 more hours of insanity i did end up with a tool,which beats the other option anyway... I'm too beat to post a million photos of messy wired-up failures et c.(i've a goofy camera and need to reduce each photo laboriously anyway,And no point wasting space on forum),just one shot of where i'm at with it at present. And below that i'll post a photo of an axe forged by a man named Serge,(i'm not sure where he's at,but have access to a video of his shop and other info,just too beat right now),to whom i take off my hat and bow Very low indeed...One heck of a smith that... Serge's work:
  10. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Quick summary of the forge-day...Itv was long,and hard,and so i'll just post a few photos. (what they'll illustrate is an axe with a collared eye that was typical for Sweden and Finland;this is a later,somewhat more complex mode,as illustrated in Lars Enander's book on forging). An old,failed attempt with drift inserted,(to be used as pattern): New pre-form,3/8" thick: Blade,1/2" thick and it's future spur(that in this variant actually forms the front of socket/collar): Blade and spur complete,offered up to eye pre-form: Ditto but with the drift: All parts including the bit-steel(minus the poll counter-weight),ready to be welded on the morrow...
  11. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Alan,thanks.I see what you mean now,and there's lots else to think about...(i kinda like that working out the bowl over that ball-stake ...)can see it resulting in that pot-belly look...) Really would like to give it another shot with,perhaps,slit&drifted way,but not sure i got the time...:( Conner,yes,just like Zeb says.The difference between an electric and a forge-weld is that arc(or whatever other el.way)takes metal all the way to liquid.Forge,aka Diffusion weld,is getting things close together,while very clean,and fairly hot,to allow them to exchange their electrons,"knitting" together (albeit in an imperfect crystalline lattice...). Zeb,thanks! Yours is an interesting idea,but i'm afraid that a weld such that will not like the bending very much...:(...(even if generously flanged-out...i don't think it will,anyway,but may easily be way wrong too)
  12. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Alan,thanks,man.Chuck is missed;but i always appreciated your informative posts.You've a great gift for being able to put things simply,even fairly complex ones(like talking of ore chemsitry or the history especially,some Huntsman process...). Did you by chance in that quote mean "eye",vs "bowl"? I thought about what you've said as i forged (other things);and it crossed my mind that the eye on S. ones is nice and tall,so forged Very competently,without loss of height of cheeks. May be tough to follow... Another thought,i wonder if you noticed some old examples where the Blade appears cleft&welded on,filework kinda echoing that on the bowl pedestal? Is it also a faux weld-joint filed in? Could either/both been actually done by welding? Is there any evidence that Any axes in history may've been constructed by cleft-welding the blade on the Outside of eye? And,today's foolishness...used the last of that horrible old remnant to blade a little light call it for decency sake "Finno-Ugric" hatchet... The relic remnant... ...forged out to this,that's all there wuz... ...eye preform,3/4" sq.mild.... ...after a number of welding heats....(uff...)... Profiled with an angle-grinder...
  13. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Thanks,Alan. Yes,those boys in Sheffield knew their stuff. Were those S. jobs mostly wrapped/welded,or were they punched and drifted?....(would punching the bowl be easier in the case of the full integral const.?...(were the fly-presses coming into play by then?). In the past i never had any occasion to delve into this whole issue,i must say that i'm discovering it's appeal now in the process of playing with it. Afraid that i may now have to leave off,as i meant to stick to the issue of those kirves/yxa eyes primarily,my forge-time being so damnably limited...:( Darn it anyway...now that i'm beginning to see the elegance of these old hawks,and the potential for all sorts of study therein...:(
  14. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Thanks,Alan.Somehow what came to mind was the old wisdom from incomparable Hunter S.:"When the going gets weird the weird turn pro". (just kidding,i'm in no danger of that). I do have another saga from the realm of weird,this time i'm kind of poaching on your preserve. I need to put together a more or less "authentic" tomahawk,for a good buddy,and i went for my historical data here:https://www.furtradetomahawks.com/more-pipe-tomahawks---15.html I is to be a pipe-job,eventually.(I should've studied up on the info posted by you over the years,but my connection was lousy and didn't get around to doing it yet though i know it'll cost me time,materials,and fuel). In any case i knew i'll ball it all up on the first try and so just wanted to Feel my way around the subject. So i gathered that most such pipe-hawks were made in Sheffield,and were fairly well finished,as in white-smithing pretty much all over.Some,of course,were later imitated in asst'd rifle-works and forges,but even the fully forged ones tend to follow the detailing of the filed/ground/engraved ones. But even if one was produced with a view of eventually being white-smithed,it still needed to get forged to shape.So i figured i'll start there. The likeliest stock i had on hand was this mystery mild,1" x 3/8".I was Hoping to have a good,solid weld in front of eye,And have a bit of beef there(for that file-worked detail there).So was happy that it was over a quarter. My hopes were dashed:After SO much working and re-working,the nominal 3/4" that i Could've had there(wuz i a pro) dwindled to nuffink,and the weld,eventually, got all stressed apart. But that was later,meanwhile i was satisfied that the mystery alloy will weld to self,and had enough for to play with: I was cavalier about issues,one being how little blade width i can get out of 1x 3/8 if i do an asymmetry and have only That stock...So i chopped into it,and faggoted it back on itself... ..then split itadding a 5/16" thick chunk of 1095,and Then i had enough...(i think...): It's kinda funny how those bite-marks from my vise(as i used it in drifting the eye to shape to keep the pressure off my weld) resemble/echo that file-work "beading" one sees on many examples...:) So for now on to the pipe-end.Split from 3/4" sq.;refined,and the flange "wings" forged to that iconic rhomboid shape: Now it would Seem like it's a good time ton shape it some,but i don't dare...I Needs a good weld there,and mean to whack it serious-like... So the bondage,and into the fire... And,bly me,the silly thing actually welds up...whadduya know... (of course,this is after a number of ruthless heats and vicious blows,so you can watch my poor main weld begin to creep apart...:( ...but i'm glad i kept it solid for this operation.However,that anus-clenching process cannot be postponed,and i must shape it now,so soon after welding,but hey,if it's a good weld... So i fuller it on my old gnarly gillotine... ..and then my day goes all askew...I get company in the forge,putting it to me that it's Way past beer-thirty,and i Have been in here too long today,and my thinking is clouded.So i decide to facet the future bowl(harkening back to my days as an ornametal smith)...And it goes poorly,i've too much length,and basically am tired and brainless. So the effect is crapulous,and that main central weld now looks likewise...So the beer wins...But,hey,i've learned Things today...and as you know:"Big enough pile of Anything ought to be worth Something!".
  15. jake pogrebinsky

    I-beam metal for knife making?

    DMW,what Geoff and Joshua said is vitally important,as casual as it sounds. Get in a habit of forging a hook just like that,every day of forging before starting on your main project,and you'll Discover things,every time! Things about fire management,and holding your work in tongs,and much about the tools,and countless other things... Steel is a crystalline lattice,the way it reacts to your attempts to manipulate it is very special,and is best learned directly,by muscle knowledge... Treat steel with respect and dedication,and it'll respond,like a good horse.And will reward you by an ability to See,to design in steel,and that in turn will make you happy with your forgings,and make them very appealing to others as well... It's a Language...and hooks like that are the ABC's.... (Nice hook,Joshua...:)