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jake pogrebinsky

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  1. Excellent,Joshua,it looks like you're happening on this,right on! From experience i know how both the top and bottom edges of an axe blank suffer in forging.(They're also challenging to correct,as few if any of sections of curvature would lay against any surface you may have on your anvil...unless like some Swedish shops you actually forge special top-tools/bolsters for that specific axe shape). I'll even be a total wuss and go ahead and confess that i no longer even use a prick punch for laying out.On number of occasions the marks from my small square punch have grown into fairly unpleasant(both visually and structurally)stress-riser issues...But that's going a bit far,i'm sure you know what effect your marking system will have. Best of luck,man!Happy forging!:) (and safe&happy holidays:)
  2. Thanks,Jerrod,yes-that is a very good way to describe that action. Here's a good example of a weld that failed to within about 50% of it's intent: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-J-B-Stohler-Axe-Head-Jersey-Type-Honed-to-a-Razor-Sharp-Edge-/202821916120?hash=item2f3920d5d8%3Ag%3AwJIAAOSwGEFdzH6E&nma=true&si=umXEE57fR%2B1XIUPiPUv78KWLIM0%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 If you look at all the photos there you'll see how one entire half of the cleft-weld holding the edge insert didn't make a bond... Yet,that tool is all wore,it served in it's intended use well;the other half of that Very ample weld area has held up. That is btw one of the best,most reputable American makers of late 19th-early 20th c.c.,J.B.Stohler,failures like this were Most uncommon for him. Also,if you look carefully at the top views you'll see how the poll is comprised of 4 parts,3 laminated pieces(for added mass+room inside eye),and a hardened steel butt-plate,which helps secure that 3-part weld further.
  3. Thanks,Alan,possibly that's the engineering term? And here i quickly stole some schematic off the net...It's representative enough of the Principle...(just wish they drew the weld areas larger,those stingy-looking welds make me cringe:)
  4. Jerrod,my apologies,i'm sure that i used that technical term incorrectly. What i meant by that is that the weld is positioned in a Plane that parallels that of the force in which the axe is used...Yet not exactly,as the two usually cross at a slight angle. A good example of maximizing the efficiency of a weld in the the general forging practice of course is a chain-link...(i'll try to find a schematic in case someone is not familiar with that weld). What happens there is for the weld to fail the two halves of a lapped joint must Slide past each other(or fail in tensile manner as you indicate as the strongest point). That is what i meant to indicate by bringing in "sheer",obviously a misplaced term. But the Idea of lap-weld used in chain-making is what works well in axe construction. The Area of the weld is maximised too,for further security. (although that is the stick of two ends-the smith has better have the skill to close the entire weld before it cools or oxidises,or he'd be better served by a weld of lesser area/better bond....
  5. Joshua,good job,glad to see you're trying this out. In the third photo from top,those aren't cold-shuts,looking straight at the edge of stock? If so,i'd grind those out before you go about shaping things further. (sorry if i'm seeing things).
  6. That is Finnish axe called Piilukirves,it is a hewing tool,specifically for levellin and planishing log walls in a very specific type of log-work they practice in Finland. The one above is it's relative,possibly an ancestor,from Sweden in late Middle-ages... referred to as "1700"...(by those that been falling down this rabbit-hole a while now:) all this verbiage is to put forth an idea that it's not at all random,all these choices of methods of cobbling together an axehead...
  7. Basically,the decision is based on what is wanted/and how to get there most expeditiously. For example,that axe you forged of late in Hot Work topic(great job,btw;my internet is intermittent,and i couldn't comment just then),you chose a type of axe that is essentially almost poll-less. However,to create even the transition from poll to cheeks,as well as thin those some,and to make that transition forward all took time and energy. Potentially,especially if were you up against a design that called for more variance in mass, you could accomplish it easier or faster by welding. Heres a cool photo of a yet-unwelded components of an axe similar to one you posted: It is by a smith Mathieu Colette,from Montreal,here's his FB page: https://www.facebook.com/pg/Taillanderie-Claudel-609826759129934/photos/?ref=page_internal That photo doesn't really show that the middle piece that grips the blade and the front of socket is cleft on both ends,this kinda "bow-tie" shape in section. The blade is forged from two more pieces,and socket is comprised of three more,so this particular method is a 6-piece construction.
  8. Jeremy,that's cool that you're digging the ways axes were welded...there sure were many and sundry... However,it Always matters how you "get there"...As in,it always matters a great deal how the forge-weld is oriented. General rules is that a forge-weld is strongest in sheer,so many welds used in axes are positioned so that the plane of the weld is parallel to the forces that act on the axehead in use. Both cleft-,and skew-welds are common in Germanic-Skandinavian types of axe construction,and those about cover it...(those welded-on polls are a simple butt-weld of course,the one you show above has a an obvious section of a rasp employed-good idea!:). But,yes.They say that the maximum section of stock one can forge by hand is 5/8"(this means Forge,as in delivering a fully penetrating blow). So an axe weighting 2-3-whatever pounds pretty much necessitates a composite const. method.
  9. Nah,she's not the right kind,you need Bufa sonorum(now those make for interesting kissing...). Good work,Ibor,right on.
  10. Excellent,Kris,the Very essence of "traditional",that! A very interesting and valid reinforcement idea,Very cool. Could allow one to use that gorgeous WI,and not worry about any structural consequences at the same time.Lovely:)
  11. Why such complicated "spider" overlay around the poll?To reinforce it? And do the 3 different alloys represent the traditional construction detail/pattern? (any particular one?)
  12. Right on Kris!!!:) Beautiful steel,great going!:)
  13. Beautiful job,Will.Thank you for covering the process,and all updates.
  14. It IS,Alan,for sure... Frankly,i have a number of puzzling moments reading the description of their process... BUT,power to them,for sure,my blessings on Anyone trying to produce axes,my nit-picking criticism is neither here nor there... Darn it all,guys,my day-job is really catching up now,i've pried myself out of the forge,and will soon do a Cheshire Cat on the forum...:(...Though i still hold a glimmer of hope to ht some of the later forgings...(how i'd love to hang at least one,and swing it a time or two,but that's probably out of the question:()
  15. Tomahawks descent,in part,from what a guy may term "Biscay" pattern,as in around about Bay of Biscay,where iron was plenty and economy weak,so many cheaper trade-goods were obtained therein... Those were agrarian regions,with the type of wood-cutting chores amounting to the Slashing sort,clearing land,pruning fruit trees,and the like. (Although Basques do have some massive,thick/heavy/convex-bladed felling axes that they make to this day,and that they're famous for). So these smaller axes had a keen blade,thinning considerably in front of eye. It's pretty much a natural consequence of when you go to make a weld right there,forward of the eye,without you indulge in all sorts of specialized trickery to deliberately avoid that.. So yes,you're right,it's rather tomahawk-like in essentials.Trade-axish branch of that whole tree:)
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