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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on October 22 2018

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. jake pogrebinsky

    Anvils.

    Yes,Aweller,all of the above sounds Most sensible. I'd personally not be afraid to either crown or radius too much. For radius,the "classic" of the genre is 1/2" from the step down to nothing at the counter,taking great care to neither mar the work when working there,nor striking overly hard/close to the edge. MichaelP,yep,roger that.
  2. jake pogrebinsky

    Anvils.

    Yes,and that is most unfortunate. Any force applied to material must come from (at least)two opposing directions...And,to be predictably controlled,must be equalized between them. We all know how difficult it is to work with a flat-faced hammer...It actually makes a different tool out of it,a Set,vs a hand-hammer or a sledge.So to use a regular forging hammer on an un-crowned surface is problematic. I must confess here to not being a blade-smith myself...(mea maxima culpa:)...But iffen i do meddle in that craft,i must say that both the counter and the horn of my conventional anvil really get in the way of my holding the work,especially when it comes to forging in the bevels... I'd say that if i was up against having to do much blade forging,i'd try to come up with a post-type anvil,of an OWA type...In extremis,i'd sink a sledge-head into a stump,a 10-12 lb-er can't be that hard to get a hold of... In theory,an anvil needs to exceed the weight of a forging by at least a factor,so a 10 lb sledge head ought to work ok for an essentially a small forging that most knives are...
  3. jake pogrebinsky

    Anvils.

    Yessir,except for one very important detail that so often gets left out of discussion on anvils,namely the Crown. Any anvil must,and normally is,crowned over it's top(especially the sawmaker's anvil).It's vital for proper forging,as it limits the contact area of a hammer-blow to that (ideally) equal of the area of the hammer face.Otherwise,the rebound will act on all those areas of a forging that fall outside the struck area,bending the work upwards. Most Industrial Age anvils were made to have a crown that runs along the long axis of the face (you may want to check yours using a straight edge,to see what's up with your particular tool,but lengthtwise is most common).It served to straighten long work,such as shafts et c.,and that is why one must Forge only Perpendicularly to the face(and avoid any diagonal action,as it'll begin forming a helical twist). With all my sincere respect for Niels P.,i'll go ahead and use him as a negative example..(sorry,Niels,and hope you'll forgive the impertinence): In the first video of that thread,in the beginning,the ends of forging keeps bending up outside the strike-zone.It's happening so consistently as to cause Niels to comment on it.Unfortunately his analysis of the situation,attributing it to the left(tong)-hand work is incorrect. What is causing that forging to bend upwards is it's positioning on the anvil face,Along the hump of the crown.The rebound comes back to hit the work outside tye area where his blows fall.Was he to turn it across the face that effect would instantly abate. One must remember that a Bend is one of the forging operations,and is(barring a fairly radical and skilled)countermeasures a permanent distortion,drawing the stock thinner at the location.So that back and forth bending action is best avoided,in any Controlled Hand Forging operation. Back to OWA,those are indeed a most useful tools for blade forging.Hopefully though,as a new owner you'll be able to somehow crown their face to whatever degree(surprisingly, too much is not as detrimental as none),as well as radius any sharp edges,to avoid the unintended indenting of work... None of us are perfect,and Niels is an excellent craftsman who like the rest of us formed some habits at some point in his progress,and compensates for them in other ways.But this being the Beginner's discussion i thought it may be appropriate to bring this point up....
  4. jake pogrebinsky

    Chain link

    In an attempt to raise the T in your forge you may be giving it too much oxygen...If you look at what flame is coming out the front of the forge,looking at it from the Side,not looking directly into the fire,what color is it?(for a` Reducing Atm it should be orange). Another thing you can try is to taper a 1/4" stock sharp,and keep testing the work as it is heating up...See when the welding starts,and what happens after....How WELL will it stick,et c.Often it's very telling. Also,give any fresh weld several more welding heats;give them time to bond.In theory,welds must only be worked subsequently at welding heat.
  5. jake pogrebinsky

    Sakha (Yakut) Knife

    Aiden,i think his Instagram channel may be a good venue,also i believe that he pays fairly close `attention to the comments under his videos,you may try some of the more recent ones. Both of those photos are from a book about Sakha knives` published not too long ago there,in Sakha Republic.Typically for things published in RF it's a bit scattered,poorly organised/attributed.(i'll see if i can't find the rest of this book for you,it's not that many pages). At the top of that first photo are knives from the collection of the so-called "Kunstkamera",Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography at St.Petersburg.Typically,they're not dated,or properly attributed,nor anything else that is normally done to artefacts.They appear to be the higher-status knives,belonging to wealthier traders or herders.The topmost one seems like a stray from an unrelated collection. Those ones on the bottom,with wooden handles,are by a renown Sakha maker S.I. Gogolev-Ammyn'nikty Uus,from Taragoi,in Megino-Kangalasskiy Ulus(region). That narrow knife represents a type of it's own,carried often along with the wider ones.It was used for drilling openings,as much construction was done using a mortice and tenon principle,when building travelling sleds,or traps,or other things,including the wooden knife sheaves themselves...
  6. jake pogrebinsky

    Sakha (Yakut) Knife

    Russians have made Such a mess of practically Everything over there.....Lost and mixed up and misattributed artefacts,and wrote tons of utterly nonsensical books about how if it wasn't for Marx, and Lenin,the ancient Sakha would never have achieved such successes in metallurgy... But worse yet,it is very common there to try to further demean the victims of their colonisation by representing them as Lesser,Dumber,more Primitive people,who're in dire need of help by their Big Brother...The official designation of the indigenous nations there is still the Lesser Peoples,today...:( So,naturally they'll have Sakha make these nasty,uneven,oxydised fullers,part of the "primitive" bit... In actuality it seems like Sakha were a part of the general Oriental metalworking tradition.One of their ancient epics,dating back to well over 1000 years,describes obtaining iron by a tatara-like means,and differentiating high/medium/low carbon material...(the highest-C going for the manufacture of the "tongue" part of the Vargan,(jew's harp),the tone of that traditional instrument an indicator of the purity of intent of the tatara-master:) https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/olonkho-yakut-heroic-epos-00145 (the link above is not to that one specific epic i mentioned,but to illustrate somewhat the breadth and complexity of a culture we're discussing...i'll try to find the text to that certain one,if i can,and if so will translate those verses`referring to metallurgy.....).
  7. jake pogrebinsky

    Sakha (Yakut) Knife

    P.S. The word on a street also has it that this is a decent,informative study:Seroshevsky, V.L. Iakuty: Opyt etnographicheskogo issledovaniia [The Yakuts: Ethnographic Study Experience]. М., ROSPEN, 1993, 1, 713 p. I'm not able to find a copy in English And the public domain,and am not sure if it'd be worth it buying one from Amazon or wherever.It does contain some information on knives. Hey,just came across a scan of that monograph,but it's in in Russian:http://elib.shpl.ru/nodes/8645#mode/grid/page/422/zoom/1 What pertinent info there is would lend itself well to an electronic translaton,i think.
  8. jake pogrebinsky

    Sakha (Yakut) Knife

    Aiden,you're doing a good job of it all so far. There's lots of information available,but a very great deal of it is utter nonsense(for a number of reasons not worth going into). Here're some of the sources that i'd trust implicitly: First,this Sakha maker,Alexey,his videos and instagram channel is the forefront of all that is honest and impartial in research on these knives:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGFlPb7y_QYtNodXvvdCMlA And below is a recently published book that serves`as a primary source for Alexey's work...(an excerpt from V. Jochelson's notes and below thyat the book based on V.J. and others' research), http://digitallibrary.amnh.org/handle/2246/138 Again,i think that you're on a right track:You're a `wonderful artist,i really like your interpretation of all the puukot,so use that same sense on the Sakha knives,your artist's intuition is your best tool. After a while you'll be able to tell those false notes in the general din...(and then you'll know what i mean about many ambient info sources;especially untrustworthy are the ones in Russian,btw). Now more specifically...For once i disagree with Alan,and would say that historically the fuller was finished very smooth and even.As someone mentions`above-bend the hot forging and hot-file it smooth. There's quite a confusion in historic artefact collections caused by the all-pervasive soviet dysfunction...But it's`actually worse even than that,as the entire culture of Sakha people was systematically being degraded by the Russians over nearly 5 centuries,so many of the objects produced a Very long time ago looking back from today were already affected by this negative influence,and are not representative of the real,traditional work.It was a long,rough Colonisation period...That continues today. Do try to at least get a look at the illustrations in that AMNH book,those are the best original examples that are known today. Many of the questions you ask cannot be answered unambiguously,as there were several(many) different styles,shapes,sizes and purposes for these knives,as well as regional differences. But,again, the cream of the available info is above,much of the rest of the job may be up to you and your intuition of an artist-knifemaker.... Respect,and the very best of luck... (i'd not hesitate to write and ask Alexey any of the specific structural et c questions,he's nice guy and totally into sharing the techniques). P.P.S."Sakha" is the name of the people in their language,which is also Sakha."Yakut" is a Russian perjorative term for those,but of such long duration that many have just given up and don't bother correcting.
  9. jake pogrebinsky

    San Mai WIP

    Thanks for the explanation.Again,beautiful material,good for you,it takes cohones and Much work, to get into such neat composites.
  10. jake pogrebinsky

    San Mai WIP

    Beautiful patterns in that material(-s),and such neat job....So,that is C diffused into SS a certain way?...And randomised by forging,or diffusion itself is randomly purty like dat? Lovely looking steel in any case,right on!
  11. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Absolutely try doing that then.Aim for the Minimum of air to raise any given heat. And if it takes longer(within reason,of course),so much the better.There's lots of thinking and planning to be done between heats.
  12. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Hmm...Well,running it full blast even shortly,while raising the heat,may well be too much... There's a number of ways one can make a slide,or a gate valve...(slot the pipe and slide in a piece of tin with a wedge-shaped opening cut in it,to make it adjustable?). But for an experiment you can just block the intake on the fan itself with a piece of cardboard or whatnot... Ducting is plenty good for the air system...I have an awful mess myself,made of ducting,tinfoil,duct-tape and such crap...(i actually had duct-tape start melting and smoking and stinking yesterday,first time ever!:)...not sure why...).But my blower is hand-cranked and Very adjustable. Best of luck,man,it'll all settle into a sensible pattern for ya,always kinda rough at the first.You're doing good.
  13. jake pogrebinsky

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Andy,i think that maybe your main trouble comes from running that blower unrestricted...It's WAY too much air for what you're doing... A quick&dirty way to check would be to restrict the Intake on the blower itself with a pivoting plate of some sort(or even tinfoil as an experiment). Ideally you'll have a slide-valve of whatever kind in one of sections of pipe connecting that blower.... Also,if you could get a bucket of ash,i'd try piling it into the drum on two sides,to make your fire more of a trough,closer shaped to the work you're trying to do... That's,generally,how forging worked,you shaped your fire to the work.Depending on the fuel and other factors it was done in a number of ways.Like those that work with soft bituminous coal shape the fire with wetted green coal,allowing it to dry and moving it in towards the fire as need dictates. Your anthracite is loose,much like coke,and not coking sort itself.So you'll have to use something else to shape your fire.Ash, kitty-litter ,any other kind of clay/dirt...Got any driller friends?Ask them for half a bucket of drilling mud... It none of it has to be purty Or permanent...Like this one crazy person i used to know said :"High-tech Principle/Low-tech Application".Much in forging science is just like that.
  14. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Hurray!Into the utmost Weirdom! Strap 3/8" x 1" folded with yet another same,so in inch sq. in front of eye... And between welding, and forging to shape,and fullering off the blade part it is now about 3/4" by maybe a 1/2"...(do we really loose That much in translation?:( ....AND,with all that beef there i Still fought them weld-seam sand one of them Still appears to have a hairline separation...(there ought to be a Law...:( I'm frankly having whiny thoughts of wading into some bum mild...it was engendered by the Dump...it could've been leftovers from the latest const. project,airport runway ,equipment repair and the dread AR plate...(what IS in AR-grade to make it abrasion resistant?). Anyway,it's just a toy,for a friend's 11-year old...
  15. jake pogrebinsky

    couple of axes

    Alan,i had to revisit the pipe hawk today.My friend for whom it was started really wants it regardless,so i went to see what all i can do to make it in any way presentable,before i HT and finish it (in whatever manner). Pipe was the first concern.Look at the funky automotive body-work hammer-head i happened to have: Looked to be about the ticket,and pretty much was.(Was i to make a habit of this it'd be easy to reforge as a hardy tool).Just used it as punch,which gave a decent conical shape inside... I didn't get to test that Petersen trick of drawing edges of the bowl down.Just punched it with a normal hole punch,then this funky gizmo,and it gave me enough room then to take it to the tip of the horn...(there i just octagonized it and quit;wish i had the time to screw around with it for much longer,but...).Corrected the fuller afterwards,and called it good,even though it looks a bit too much like a common hex-nut ....ah well... My second and probably main concern was that ugly crack. Not wanting to dedicate the time and energy to reforging the entire deal i had an idea i wanted to try. I cleaned out the crack(with a hack-saw blade + one of those knife-shaped files,not sure the name of it...Then i made a right shape of a wedge,heated the main body,fluxed the crack,and jammed the wedge in there using a punch and a drift,really forced it in. It all welded up ok...All in all,for being a sort of a sweeping dirt under the carpet kinda thang,it came out better than i expected...Certainly beats that butt-crack...:( (top and bottom views): ...and as i started filing quickly improved even more...Anyway,i must run with it.And,i think i'll still stick 3 rivets of 3/16" brazing rod there through that junctureto reinforce it further(god knows why,for all the ugly it was a fairly sound joint),and for the Bling-factor. I'm frankly surprised that the bowl-flange weld took all that abuse...Now i kinda regret not having the time or werewithal to white-smith this whole deal,it certainly has the beef to spare for it,was Intended to be ground down.. But i think i'll try to finish it with much forged surfaces retained,a look saying:"yes,it was bootlegged at some local forge,but kinda competently,not Too sloppy"... It does have a decent chunk of 1095 for the edge,good welds there,too,and it hardened nicely...So it's not totally without merit.
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