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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on January 19

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. Right on,guys,so glad that the link works,and we all can see that material. Frankly,i don't know what to "make" of it,so many European patterns represented there (practically all known?) Couple-three typologies mentioned that i never even heard of...and a strong realization of knowing way too little of metalwork in Ireland...
  2. Geoff,sorry about this,let me try a different way: Antiquities_from_the_River_Blackwater_II.pdf
  3. Antiquities_from_the_River_Blackwater_II.pdf
  4. Thanks,Joshua,good stuff! I've played with steam a little,love it to bits.
  5. Excellent job,i Really like the overall lines,and that gentle bend of the handle is sweet! i'd guess that it'll prove to be a most useful tool. The radius of that blade is somewhat more moderate than majority of "carving" axes,that should give it more authority,less muscle effort needed to guide it. Anyway,good going,a very fine tool there.
  6. NICE work,Kris,right on!!!! "Challenge" is an apt topic description!:}
  7. I'm with Joshua,i found this thread too late and Aiden is pretty well embarked by now. Looking good there,Aiden,i think there's a good chance it'll make a great tool! It's difficult to generalize about "carving" axes,as the many jobs involving carving wood are very diverse,and the species of trees worked,And the many styles in which such work is done. The only two points come to mind as more/less shared are the more pronounced radius of blade,and the more open configuration of the hang. The radius issue depends on the curvaceous-ness of work performed-the more radical radius minimizes the edge contact zone,while keeping the heel and toe of the edge further/safer distance away from unintended cuts. The openness of hang is often combined with a gentle sweep of handle Backwards,allowing for further controlling that issue. The single-,vs double-bevel edge also has to do with the degree of curve expected to be encountered in work: Single-bevel tool is more "aggressive" (takes less energy to keep it embedded in material). However,in cutting it describes an arc going down into the material(when used bevel-up). If the radius of that part of carving allows it-great,if not the tool will dig-in jarringly. So a double-bevel edge is more versatile option as capable of carving a tighter radius,or dealing with more contrariness of grain. The poll on carving axes is normally moderate to non-existent,unless you're including hewing axes in general (meant for much larger work where the added mass is handy),many carving axes are poll-less. It'd depend some of how much work is done in a horizontal plane-the extra mass of poll is often used in felling axes,say,where it balances the tool in lateral movement(takes less energy on your part to keep the blade from diving due to gravity). When mostly chopping up and down direction an axe benefits more from it's mass concentrated in the blade,where gravity directs it like it does a radically-unbalanced dog-headed hammer. But sometimes a poll is present. One of very popular carving axes is made by Svante Djarv,it has a poll (maybe in part due to the slit&drifted eye). Robin Wood axe is essentially that ancient Rhinelander pattern,an all-purpose basic axe that evolved out of all sorts of wood-chopping chores. You're doing fine,Aiden,and will figure things out as you go from this point. For future reference,or just curiosity,you may want to check out some Djarv axes,also some by Karlsson,and the fairly recent one by Julia Kalthoff...And maybe the iconic one by Stefan Ronnqvist where all the physics are truly radicalized... Kalthoff: S.Djarv: https://thespooncrank.com/svante-djarv/ Karsson: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/434667801522852305/ Ronnqvist: http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9
  8. Alan,your work has that really special affinity with the look/feel of the historic examples of older work. Sweet,and Very classy,as usual! Reading carefully through all the process i think of you doing all that filing on WI. Of course WI does not equal WI,but often when so engaged the softness of the material makes filing a bit tricky. Do you soapstone your files,and/or keep the file card Really close at hand,or any other special tips and tricks when filing extensively on wrought?
  9. Gerhard,for cultures that use a lot of flesh in their diet,(fish in particular),it's important for the cut through the meat to be Continuous,a single-cut,with no back-and-forthing or jaggedness. As any irregularity may end up harboring a harmful bacteria,especially for dried or otherwise preserved product. The semi-circular blade serves that purpose quite well. An ulu-like radial action simply stays in it's track easily. Today's mechanized slicer for cold-cuts and cheese functions on the same principle. (so does a radially-ground chisel in ironwork,or that same shape in leather-cutting tools). Tuna being a very large east,and it's meat being very expensive,it's a small wonder this shape is particularly associated with butchering it.
  10. I've never found an arrow point either! Most of Alaska is not the greatest place for finding things,it's vast,and largely untrod by archaeologists (who,much like the rest of us,are intimidated by all the vastness,and it's a real PITA to get around!). And when paleolithic people were here they were very few per all this vastness,so finding something is mathematically intimidating,your chances are cosmically few. I do live somewhat close (80 miles by snowmobile in winter/150 by water in the summer) to where an older culture in the past(up to fairly recently) knapped and traded chert from a couple local to them there sources. A lady i'm friends with here is a biologist for the USF&WS, and a number of years back she's made a significant discovery of lithic points. I think i may've rapped about that here in the past,it was a find so large and so Odd in a number of ways that not unlike you,Geoff,my buddy Karin is also somewhat irritated and hurt by this element of skepticism that the find engendered. (The scientists at UAF and many other researchers had it for a number of years now,maybe that ill-defined pall has dissipated,i should ask Karin if she heard the latest). But!!! Fairly recently our Northern archaeology got a great break-the dread Climate Change has been melting these permanent,ancient snow patches.As opposed to glaciers,who are so dynamic that the artefacts sift down to the rocky moraine beneath to be ground to dust by unstoppable movement-the snow patches preserve everything intact. And the beauty of it is that they preserve Organics,intact... I was reminded of all this by Alan's great notes on darts and atlatls above,there're some uber cool examples of windings and sections of shafts in this snow patch finds. This is East of me,around the Divide where my drainage (Yukon) goes West,and everything to the East drains into McKenzie river valley.But also there're trade routes to the ocean,the Inside Passage and the wide North Pacific... I don't know what cultural attributions the scientists are making there,but like here those are Dene people,who's been around here pretty permanently for...? (14 000 years or so at least?). Anyway,if you'll have the time to watch this there's some really neat stuff discussed and shown (and even a copper point way at the very end...).
  11. Great job on All of these,Faye,good for you for persevering,and working your way through the inevitable challenges.Right on. All of the axes above would sooner qualify as "poll-less". That extra mass at the poll is fairly difficult to come by in a folded-type of pre-form. It Was done,but the starting stock would have to be 1" thick minimum,or even better. Alternatively,that mass was added by welding on an extra piece,or in later years by slitting&drifting the eye. It's a very odd idea to use an axe in butchering game in the field. It ruins the meat,and deposits sharp bone shards throughout what will be food. In subsequent butchering,in some cultures, an axe was used for making certain cuts like chops,and splitting soup bones for more effective cooking,but those were very specialized meat axes(very broad and thin of blade). In the last couple-three decades there's a presence of a confusing term,"hunter's axe",that i think was popularised by some Swedish makers in an attempt to create more business among the outdoorsy and so on. Those are meant for hunting camp chores,not for the parting out of a game animal.(Some have a rounded and polished poll,for ostensibly "beating the hide off",another made-up concept). Also,axes were at times driven with another tool but Very rarely,and then only with a wooden mallet. It stands to reason-a kind of poll that is suited for striking is Really different. An example of that are the top tools used in forging:The poll is very long(for anything used metal-on-metal Will mushroom and needs to be dressed periodically),but also the sides of the eye are Way thicker to transmit energy in such use. Indeed the eye shape itself is different,smaller,and a short oval close to round.Many of these were also not wedged,as the wedge works poorly with being beat on. There` was a pattern on the West Coast called Rafting,axes with extra-heavy poll that had a hardened face(moderately thin,to prevent fracture,like anvil facing). These were used to drive the eye-spikes to attach the chains that held the log rafts together. Those spikes were very soft,to prevent damage to axes,but still those axes suffered damage to the face eventually,having to be dressed et c. Just some very general info here,obviously we all choose to design,and use,the tools any which way We desire to!:)
  12. There is,it's called a Biscayne pattern. One of world's oldest metallurgical centers,the Bay of Biscay,was the origin of those cheap "trade axes" originally imported into the New World,to eventually become what is known as a "tomahawk". Those were light,poll-less axes of different sizes and weight,heavier ones used for felling and other forestry chores(many older felling axes used on hardwood had a narrow bit,to concentrate force of impact).The smaller ones were used in orchard and vineyard work. Traditionally and to this day most of these tools had a compression-fit handle,the system of hafting,another characteristic that contributed to the later concept of "tomahawk". Not surprisingly the pattern was(and is) more common in Central and South America,those places originally colonized by the countries sharing the Bay of Biscay coastline. Here's a typical example of a Swedish product forged for that market:
  13. Admittedly,i've never tried it on on anything like a blade,though i've upset a thickened edge on other things. It may not be all that difficult,i'd not be surprised if forging was done free-hand(with subequent clean-up by usual blade-making means). If i had to do something like that i'd start with the T.Begin the upset,it'll be easy to do-it's not Really as much of an upset as Riveting,sharp/multi-directional blows,should be easy to control. Once enough material accrued at the spine a set-tool,a type of a butcher,can be used to simultaneously true up the undersides of the T,and to fuller the groove that determines that thickened blade section above bevels... Probably best done by using top+bottom tooling...Long ago,the forge teams were numerous,it'd not be as much of a challenge as it is today,for most of us "one-armed" smiths. Today,a spring-fuller + some limiting pins should give one plenty of control for something like that. Eventually the T can be refined with any degree of control simply over a properly-radiused edge of a stake-tool,quite a standard operating procedure.The fuller will help register the forging at proper orientation on the stake. The bevels would be forged in last,after the edge serves it's purpose for edge-on forging of the T. Some of the older draw-knives had a similar profile,although in one dimension only,but still a bit tricky.
  14. Faye,i can totally relate to anyone having a tough time with the "science" of it all,always did find the theory confusing meself...:( A couple more/less practical troubleshooting methods: Take something like a 1/4" rod(sq. or round or #9 wire or whatever),and forge or grind a sharp-ish pointed taper on one end. During the heating,using this rod as a poker of sorts,stick the sharp point into,or close to the area you're heating to welding T. Try this every once in a while starting from before it's to heat,each time giving it(that sharp point) a bit of time to come to heat. Pretty soon you Should experience that poker sticking to the forging,more and more so.You'll actually feel the Weldability begin,and progress.Sometimes it stuck on me so damn hard that i had to abort the heat,and use tools and force to tear it back off the forging i was trying to test. If the sticking feels lazy,or weak,maybe some factor is indeed off and needs troubleshooting. You didn't say but I must assume you're using a Venturi burner. Alan is right that a blown burner is vastly easier to adjust,especially when one needs to amp-out the heat,but here's a quick&dirty way to get an idea of the Atmosphere inside your forge: Step over to the side of the forge to where you're not looking directly into the door,you're "around the corner",and can't see the through the door,no direct line of sight at the inside of forge. Now look at the air escaping from the forge door,in front and above the opening. You'll be looking at the transparent gases escaping from the door,and depending on the background it will be kinda tough to judge,but in general are you seeing more of an Orange tint to these gases,or the Blue/Green tint? The transparent Orange flames is what is desirable for welding(or even just forging in general,it indicates the Reducing Atm inside the forge,i.e. more Carbon/less Oxygen). A couple years ago i helped a friend adjust a new Diablo forge he just got,and using this method i got it pretty well set by playing around with the little flat choke-plates on top of venturi burners.(If you still have the manual or any instructions that came with your forge they may mention these things). Another method,even more "alchemical" but one that actually helped me a lot in the past is something that Bogdan P. has described some years back:As you're watching the flux(whatever borax-based) melt,try to judge it's color when close/at/or even past the welding T. It's color,tint, should be "Warm",i.e. tending to Warm red and orange and such,vs Cold tints with bluish/white in it... Physically at that stage the molten flux will be liquid,the surface very Smooth with multitude of small bubbles rapidly running around;vs still,and almost "scaly"-rough looking,much less active/mobile... Lastly,just to cover as many bases here as possible,look to your lower-C steel carefully: I used to get my steel at the local supplier where the guys working there were just super nice and sympathetic to the Cause :),they not only let me rummage in their dumpster,but would actually save all kinds of odds and ends for me. Many drops had a designation marked on them,that at first i used to ignore,but eventually i learned that "mild" does Not equal "mild"...There were many types of low-C steel that were weird in any number of ways...(Alaska is a pretty industrial place,much heavy equipment repair et c.).It wasn't only the matter of running into some crap A36,it was more complex,any number of M+3-digit designation plate,and not infrequently AR-grades,and All sorts of weird creatures... Needless to say it didn't help me to learn to weld,some of these alloys being very difficult due to assorted element combinations. If at all possible,try to get a hold of a straight-up AISI 1018/1020,if only a small chunk for an experiment,to compare against what you're using now...
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