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jake pogrebinsky

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jake pogrebinsky last won the day on January 19

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About jake pogrebinsky

  • Birthday 05/28/1966

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  1. NICE work,Kris,right on!!!! "Challenge" is an apt topic description!:}
  2. I'm with Joshua,i found this thread too late and Aiden is pretty well embarked by now. Looking good there,Aiden,i think there's a good chance it'll make a great tool! It's difficult to generalize about "carving" axes,as the many jobs involving carving wood are very diverse,and the species of trees worked,And the many styles in which such work is done. The only two points come to mind as more/less shared are the more pronounced radius of blade,and the more open configuration of the hang. The radius issue depends on the curvaceous-ness of work per
  3. Alan,your work has that really special affinity with the look/feel of the historic examples of older work. Sweet,and Very classy,as usual! Reading carefully through all the process i think of you doing all that filing on WI. Of course WI does not equal WI,but often when so engaged the softness of the material makes filing a bit tricky. Do you soapstone your files,and/or keep the file card Really close at hand,or any other special tips and tricks when filing extensively on wrought?
  4. Gerhard,for cultures that use a lot of flesh in their diet,(fish in particular),it's important for the cut through the meat to be Continuous,a single-cut,with no back-and-forthing or jaggedness. As any irregularity may end up harboring a harmful bacteria,especially for dried or otherwise preserved product. The semi-circular blade serves that purpose quite well. An ulu-like radial action simply stays in it's track easily. Today's mechanized slicer for cold-cuts and cheese functions on the same principle. (so does a radially-ground chisel in ironwork,or that same shape in leathe
  5. I've never found an arrow point either! Most of Alaska is not the greatest place for finding things,it's vast,and largely untrod by archaeologists (who,much like the rest of us,are intimidated by all the vastness,and it's a real PITA to get around!). And when paleolithic people were here they were very few per all this vastness,so finding something is mathematically intimidating,your chances are cosmically few. I do live somewhat close (80 miles by snowmobile in winter/150 by water in the summer) to where an older culture in the past(up to fairly recently) knapped
  6. Great job on All of these,Faye,good for you for persevering,and working your way through the inevitable challenges.Right on. All of the axes above would sooner qualify as "poll-less". That extra mass at the poll is fairly difficult to come by in a folded-type of pre-form. It Was done,but the starting stock would have to be 1" thick minimum,or even better. Alternatively,that mass was added by welding on an extra piece,or in later years by slitting&drifting the eye. It's a very odd idea to use an axe in butchering game in the field. It ruins the me
  7. There is,it's called a Biscayne pattern. One of world's oldest metallurgical centers,the Bay of Biscay,was the origin of those cheap "trade axes" originally imported into the New World,to eventually become what is known as a "tomahawk". Those were light,poll-less axes of different sizes and weight,heavier ones used for felling and other forestry chores(many older felling axes used on hardwood had a narrow bit,to concentrate force of impact).The smaller ones were used in orchard and vineyard work. Traditionally and to this day most of these tools had a compression-fit handle,the
  8. Admittedly,i've never tried it on on anything like a blade,though i've upset a thickened edge on other things. It may not be all that difficult,i'd not be surprised if forging was done free-hand(with subequent clean-up by usual blade-making means). If i had to do something like that i'd start with the T.Begin the upset,it'll be easy to do-it's not Really as much of an upset as Riveting,sharp/multi-directional blows,should be easy to control. Once enough material accrued at the spine a set-tool,a type of a butcher,can be used to simultaneously true up the und
  9. Faye,i can totally relate to anyone having a tough time with the "science" of it all,always did find the theory confusing meself...:( A couple more/less practical troubleshooting methods: Take something like a 1/4" rod(sq. or round or #9 wire or whatever),and forge or grind a sharp-ish pointed taper on one end. During the heating,using this rod as a poker of sorts,stick the sharp point into,or close to the area you're heating to welding T. Try this every once in a while starting from before it's to heat,each time giving it(that sharp point) a bit of time to co
  10. A Totally casual question,(just in case Jarrod is bored:)),especially since i think it's come up before...and maybe more than once. Lead bath pops up in HT sequence of tooling,files in particular for some reason. I can't quite figger this one out:The melting point of Pb is around 625F,not enough for quench,and seems kinda high for tempering anything(particularly files). What was at the bottom of the industry's attraction to Pb bath,historically?
  11. P.S. Faye,i'm NOT saying that there's necessarily anything wrong with your T or Atm. The scale on your forgings,and around the anvil stump looks fine,visually,thin and not excessive... But speaking for myself i know by now i have a real problem with patience in regards to waiting for stuff to come to heat,where the big heavy forging is involved. Especially that first heat,the most important one,is difficult to wait out for some reason...
  12. Joshua hi,Happy Solstice-Merry Christmas-Happy New Year to you,Sir,and everyone here! Yes,i piped up tentative-like. Cautiously,because you guys are doing a great job trying to help Faye here,and also 'cos i'm away from my forge at present,and it feels weird dispensing advice whilst not actually forging oneself... But since i have,again i'd like to point to Heating specifically.Unfortunately we all do it differently,and i presume Faye's using propane? It's been years since i forged with propane,so am sadly under-informed on specifics of that...Would ju
  13. Faye,i feel your frustration,and am only too familiar with everything you're going through. On the bright side,you're doing Really good at practicing all the necessary moves that are involved in building an axe-head,welding seems to be the main challenge,but all these other things-forging that complex 3-D shape-are also most crucially important,and you're getting better very rapidly. I really like that last pre-form,great job on that. We all know just how tough it is to help someone with a welding situation remotely...You're getting some wonderful feedback though,n
  14. I'd love to but i So rarely get a chance!:) You're very knowledgeable,Alan,and articulate,And level-headed with your info,i've learned much from you over the years... Thank you in particular for those dates above,it's nice to have something a bit finer than a century(which is as fine as my pea-brain stretches). But about those seams i'm pretty sure(and thanks,Joshua,for taking good close-up photos). It was probably the most common welding scheme of the period,3-layer stack.The steel poll-plate,not Strictly necessary on a little side-axe,may well
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