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jake pogrebinsky

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Everything posted by jake pogrebinsky

  1. Darn it,Rob,that's harsh,yeah....Good for you though to challenge yourself with such risky shapes,beautifully thin section on that one....
  2. Hmm...Well,there's lots to what you guys say.Leather can of course be used in any number of creative ways. All Northern people were great innovators and engineers,and they sure did like laminating stuff...Wood and sinew and baleen and ivory all went into the sandwich,duct-taped with birch bark smeared with fish glue... (the characters i camp with here,when PR with the Inuit was particularly bad,and trade for sealskin boots not an option,used to laminate moose-hide with layers of spruce pitch,to make it in some marginal way usable for soling boots...). And we do have those Ugric jobs in the main thread with that same stand-off wooden part pierced with some sort of lashing holes,too many for suspension... Also here the rim of a birch-bark basket is reinforced with roots(and sinew+pitch in the past) in such a manner as to make that pretty stiff,and long-lasting...
  3. Right on,Billy!I totally share in this very sort of "utilitarian shamanism"(as Nikolay puts it:) I'm being cavalier only because i'm but a passing visitor in this knife-making world!:)...But you're entirely right,that's asking for it... Darn it,Alan,i dunno...Everything(almost,obviously)about this design screams "function". And,when lacking history,archaeology,et c.,and we must go out on that conjectural limb,Function is one of the good threads in that maze(or can be). Those guys were always very athletic.I see why their sheaths are wood,i can picture how they body-slam that deer,and what could happen if the knife wasn't correctly shielded... So many other separate factors are similar.Handle-comfortably bulky,soft/warm wood,no decoration to trap grime,a slight conical section to wedge in the mouth of the scabbard like a cork,to keep the crap out and of course to retain your knife during any kind of gymnastics... Same as the single-point suspension,ditto,stemming from functional factors. So a soft-ish(oiled or in any way treated hide would be pliable to some degree) material surrounding the insertion port...I can just imagine having to feel with your fingers down to the knife-point to guide it properly down into scabbard...:( (for years i used a moosehide sheath i made for belt knife,it was just that kind of dysfunction... and i actually ended up loosing the knife because of atmospheric-related looseness issues with it:)) Casting my pea-brain about the World's knives,seems like great many are filed in scabbards in rigid materials primarily...If leather is used it's often secondary,as covering...(i may be Way off,not like i'm super informed on knife history..).
  4. Man,that fuller is looking great,totally controlled,deliberate looking fuller,that.Fantastic. I presume that you used the cut-off disc and grinder both free-style?Nice job on the use of all these tools. That cutter looks even better now that i see how thick it is.Very good decision with the inline handle orientation,my experiment with transverse handle was a poor solution. Brilliant move to reduce the thickness afterwards,too. Great work,Aiden,thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills and ideas.Very inspiring,tons to learn and to think about! (LOTS of good stuff above on design,modern and not so,thanks;very much worth taking some time to mull it over).
  5. Thanks,guys:) I got that thing all metalled-up...And i tell you what-this design is something that is ancient,i'm convinced now. It is like a pebble,that was smoothed over perfectly by uncountable oceans of human experience... For me to Not screw something up takes something like Divine Providence,and all these processes so far went off without a hitch...Not even a hint of treachery,whatever came out flawed was perfectly foreseeable,and was not prevented due to my laziness or lack of focus Only. It's crazy,i've never done a single project that went This smoothly before This was what that kerf came out looking like as i took the cord bondage off.It went a long way towards coming together,in just one night's drying. Now if i wanted to make it appear seamless,i could've run a flat needle file in that crack to lap it perfectly,but i'm a slob,and am interested in where it'd go naturally,on it's own,so i don't do nuffink to it. . At the last moment i realise i forgot to bore the suspension orifice...I used a drill,and even filed the shape smooth afterwards,but i sure didn't Need to-the tip of that knife could've accomplished this easily(if maybe not so accurately,not that it matters here). Working with that brass shim stock turned out to be very easy(no idea how thick it is,i'd guess .025?). Marked it by wrapping it in place,gave it maybe 5/16" for flanges and locking seam(eyeballed those distances but used a straight edge for lines). Made the bends over a sharp edge of a plank,flattened those flanges nicely.(metal gets doubled-over at all edges except the very bottom that just gets flushed up). Photo of top piece flanges bent and hammered but the locking edges not shaped yet: Then it just all freaking went on...Practically in spite of all my attempts to mess it up...Look how ridiculously,undeservedly smooth and even and regular it all is: This last photo shows that kerf,now closed.As i said above,if i bothered about lapping it,or simply cleaning it down to fresh wood,it'd be literally invisible. (i rarely do clean kind of woodwork;all my tools are badly contaminated with scale,burned waste oil residue,charcoal dust...from my forge,that Black Hole of Calcutta,crap propagates to all other corners of my messy establishment...:(..): The knife has Beautiful locking/release action...Yet another ridiculously fortuitous thing in the run of them,feels utterly Undeserved (and Is,i'm a slob).So yet again,this is a literally fool-proof design. I still got some trimming to do at mouth there,and those pricked-in designs(to help the metal adhere to the wood),and the suspension loop too.And as i work on all that i'll keep on wondering:Wassup with this tin stuff,what did it replace?! Was it always metal(not like these guys were not capable of making thin sheets;half the ornaments sewn onto Evenki shaman's garb are of forged sheet)? Or did this WWII/Lend-lease era tin replaced some other material?Birch bark,with it's exposed rim finished in some manner?.. (it wasn't leather;Nikolay specifically warns against tying knots in babiche thong that forms suspension,it gets wet and comes loose;so rawhide couldn't have been relied on to keep the knife in place).
  6. And so we embark,to make a sheath based on method shown by N.Aboimov,as has been shown him by the tundra Evenki. I've barely,kinda/sorta enough of this same birch left from making a handle,and will try to use it as i So much liked the way it carved...lovely soft evenly-grained wood. If i screw this up i've plenty of spruce,which will be more traditional anyway,and more practical being lighter and stiffer. Through a slot sawn along one side i keep cutting and sawing more wood out for the blade till i can insinuate it deep enough to scribe the bolster on the face of that standing-off part: I was too lazy and spaced out to've put any kind of an edge on the knife yet,it has a couple sharpish sections though,and works Great for practically all these operations,Very much as advertised.Brilliant design based on the very knife that we're working on here. So on like this till the knife is bedded enough: I Really like this process,and method itself appeals to the way i myself like to do stuff.It's very "conservative",for lack of better term.Similarly i always leave the end of a board wild untill i'm ready to make that final decision,or leave the nailing off of a structure till i square and level it,et c.This has a similar risk-free factor,the outside is done last allowing you to adjust it to whatever expedients you've maybe had to resort to shaping the inside. Top view of a still-square,axe-finished blank: But finally i Am ready to shape the outside...and indeed it was the most pleasant process...Here's where i Really could've used the knife itself,but it only has the lousiest pre-edge on it,and i'm a bit concerned with having to stretch them tin parts on in a bit here,so just use a drawknife...The tool-kit has been totally minimal,it could easily have been just that knife,but i Am in the village vs camp,and like the rich white guy i am exercise my prerogative and use my drawknife!:) (other than that i only used a short Stanley "Short-cut" and my utility knife that i seem to use for everything...and a pencil... And now one more action-as instructed by Nikolay i lash the deal with some nylon cord,tying clove-hitches gradually squeezing that slot tight.It works fine,and i'll let it hang over the woodstove for the night to let it get used to it's new shape,before fitting the tin parts....
  7. Far out,James. Super honest,clean forging...Love those welds on wings...Excellent job,congrats on going the distance on a project of such scope and complexity... Far out,James. Super honest,clean forging...Love those welds on wings...Excellent job,congrats on going the distance on a project of such scope and complexity...
  8. Yes,very much so. Now,i'm sure that the similarity between these knives and seaxes is not lost on you,Alan,of all people! Leaving the history and technical details aside,i'll go ahead and say that these Are the actual archtypal seaxes. That universal appeal the seaxes have,everyone tries to find their own path to that.I think that Aiden's choice is very wise-strike at the very ancient,the subconscious,the ethnic memory,if you will. It helps build and strengthen immunity to much of the trite,the formulaeic,the distracting influences of all the hollywood-ish imagery our information landscape is so littered with. Any maker needs that to remain creative. Afterall,a good shaman must be good at accessing the Lower world,directly!:)
  9. That's some beautiful wood.And not only that,but getting it yourself is an extremely valuable lesson/training/meditation on Physics of it all. Same goes for your admirable experiments with tars and resins and all that stuff. I really believe there's a Huge amount of validity in your pursuing these paths.It's basically going back to the Source,a real education that is based on the solid foundation of previous experience,as any advanced knowledge must be. Without it it's easy to loose your way. Moden knifemaking is following a bunch of rabbit-trails that i think will end up being dead-ends,those cold,slippery,heavy handle materials,plasticised wood,all that will drop off i think as an unviable,idea-based stuff only. Things for us humans must be rooted deeper,in that they'd appeal to deeper more basic neurological processes. The looks alone of an "interesting" handle materials(i'm thinking of all the oily tropical exotics) is not enough,it don't "satisfy" on the more complex levels. Like it or not our brains process the incoming information based on more than mere ideas,it needs to be more solid than that. Yes,even that smell of resin is yet another important factor-maybe it tells our brain that this compound is a bacteria- or bug-repellent...I dunno,and it's not necessarily about any rational deconstructing either. I just think you're hitting some important neurological signifiers with this work,AND doing a very good job of it as well. Respect.
  10. Ground the tip back to where i can easily and reliably drill through a 1x...And if need be it can be done again...I Did like the look of that break,even through a 10x prospector's glass couldn't see individual grains(somehow managed to get a tiny bit of WI even that far out to tip...that looked weird under magnification,very dirty:). Then again following Aiden's example wedged and epoxied the blade in,photo of dry fit: After epoxy set somewhat cleaned up excess,and whittled the handle down to about what it needs to be;may cut it down shorter still,i'll see... My sneaky plan with that one check didn't fly,it didn't get glued up,and maybe even grew longer overnight in spite of my having given the wood a couple coats thin raw linseed oil(thinned with lots of mineral spirits). I think i'm a nitwit,and that check is old,i've just taken my chunk out too close to the end of that piece of firewood:) But,it ain't a pie'ano,as they say,and we'll deal with it if it becomes too much of an issue later.Meanwhile i'm itching to start on the sheath...
  11. Beautiful job on that knife,Rob,real sweet shape,nice and warm and tactile-looking:) Congratulations on that great new tool,man,it must be an exciting addition to your tool-set,opening up all sorts of new and wonderful possibilities! It's a challenging tool,that one.Not so much for getting used to it,though it takes some doing and time,but tools That cool have a strong tendency to influence our design.,You've a wonderful eye for line and shape,don't let it mess with that,show it who's the boss:)
  12. Excellent job on both of these,Aiden,congrats. You've done a great job translating original designs into this REALLY clean lines+finish of your responsible,modern process-Not an easy thing to do,either to envision or to execute. So the best of both worlds,i think,the beauty utility cool-factor of originals preserved,and indeed improved upon in modern materials. Doesn't get much better.
  13. The learning process is progressing most productively,i'm doing most of the stuff i'm not supposed to do,and results are very educational. I left the handle very bulky hoping that it'll have an easier time reconciling with it's new shape,but it started checking anyway. That's perfectly fine since i'm doomed to using epoxy on this one anyway,and that epoxy will hold everything together. I went ahead and shaped the handle a bit closer,which allowed me to experiment with actually using the tool. Here's an important concept that hasn't come up yet(i don't think).It may be hard to tell from my crap photo,but the idea is to orient the blade in the handle a few degrees Off(short vertical line is the axis of handle,and maybe you can see those few degrees of deviation in plane from that of the blade). That is done(by some)to ease the motion of using a single-bevel knife.It automatically orients it with the Median of it's combined angle towards the work,at natural wrist position(does it make any sense?): I'll use these hose clamps to control checking for now,and once ready to epoxy i'll relax them to allow epoxy enter the checks and tighten to glue it all up. Meanwhile,since i can now kinda use the knife,i'm following through on Aiden's sage advice and experiment with it best i can. Broke off the tip drilling a pine 1x,which is Very cool in a number of ways:It was Way too thin anyway,and i got to see How it broke:It bent very easily over,and snapped almost immediately at attempting to be bent back. I was beginning to think that it may be too hard yet,but now this tells me it's about right,i think.There's plenty length to re-grind the blade another even time or two...And,i got to see the grain-looks perfectly fine and satisfactory to me... I'm having a good time with this,it's a very practical,down to earth process,very enjoyable. Tons to learn!:)
  14. Aiden,thanks-this is a Lot of really cool,sound,useful advice...That's great,I'll keep on thinking about all these things you bring up. I'm very happy to hear that you mean to venture into cutler resins,good for you man!I think aside from practical issues it also adds soul,some more of that intangible "cool factor". Btw,one point about resin sealants that rarely comes up is Hygene.Not only it seals any minute cracks where that deadly to us Anaerobic bacterium can find refuge from the large/predatory/symbiotic with us airborne yeasts (that eat them),but also many volitile compounds in these resins act as an antiseptic,or even antibacterial substance. Birch tar,say,used in medicine to cover extended burns,et c.(pine or spruce resins as well contain similar antibiotic compounds to n-th extent). Some of these cutler's resins will preserve the wood of the handle as well as keeping it safe for work around food. I badly wanted to experiment,and may yet(though i lack your systematic,patient,rational approach).But also have none on hand,and would like to get this handled so that i can play with it to see how it Works,and to do it's own sheath,hopefully. I'm just lazy-woods around abound in resins...But still too much snow on the ground,be a pain to set up an extractor for birch tar,and though i can easily access spruce pitch it'd take a while to dial-up consistency/viscosity/drying time...
  15. You're happening,man.Nice and thorough and systematic,very cool.I think all these will turn out great,and will be very interesting to hear what'll you think once they're in your hand,being real knives. I like that scraper,neat job on that,right on!
  16. Is this contagious?Addictive?You guys could've warned me,at least... Ah well...I'm (of course) making every beginner mistake possible,and my blank is melting away like a popsicle... Most of the terrible damage i've done to it with my hammer is going away,but i just hate to be loosing any more mass,especially on the steel side,this was supposed to be a thick-ish knife... I think i've done all i really could.There'll be a few dark pits on the back(consistent with historic puukot:)),none close to the business end/edge of things. The thing is at about 120 grit,and i think that's where it'll stay(i honestly don't know if i own any finer anything). The fuller is also to 120;not a True 120 with Every scratch out,but fairly close. I never corrected it with my disc,decided to leave it "naytural/organic-loike",as in irregular in shape.I think it'll match most of the other lines in the final product. Finish-wise,i scooted it around on the kind of a stone that my friend is likely to use on this,and it left scratches coarser than 120...So,my only concern is with bacterium.Is he likely to dig around with it in a critter or a fish and put it away without washing-Oh YES. Will crap get trapped it scratches and putrefy and poison him-i doubt it...or there wouldn't be any nomadic hunter-gatherers left...:) Heck of a job trying to photograph a shiny object...but it looked somewhat like this,towards the end of the process(i dod raise the shoulders from as -forged to those marker lines,my steel has meandered too low there anyway): The back is similar,with a few dark,oxidised pits...Those i actually burned...(darn it,i dunno how you guys do this-these forgings are so tiny...have to bend right to the anvil to see,but the worst part-it comes to heat before ever i had my smoke!That messes up my thinking process,see..:(..(and burns good material...ought to be a law...is That why you guys get so into swords?"Cos they're bigger?:) Anyway,i figured it'd be the right time to burn in the tang.Originally i wanted to tap it into a green,boiled piece with bark on,pretending i'm out in camp on the tundra...But,one of my hammer faux pas was that lethal thinning of a spot Right above the handle...And it may've not been happy getting pounded into unrelieved wood. So i just used an older chunk kicking around and burned it in. It went very well,i tapped it with a rubber mallet,and it went like butter,in 4-5 heats(to black,using little propane torch,so knife could stay in the vise). The grain is oriented across the growth rings(to help prevent splitting),and edge is towards the bark-side.That side will shrink more,helping to preserve that comfortable egg-section of the handle. On to HT.Normalised x3,held at temp for a minute,and edge-quenched into hot canola oil,about a gallon and a half of it. It bent pretty severely,the convex side arched backwards...I didn't have a clamping jig,as i didn't know just where and how much it'll go(to plan for a shim for over-bending slightly).So i did Aleksey deal,and 12 seconds into the quench took it out and straightened it on a piece of slightly concave wood,using rubber mallet. It straightened out,but a few minutes later,as i came into the house to temper it,i noticed that now it went the Other way,Lots. So i gave it an hour at...?...but the dial of my little dumpster-find toaster oven set at about 380F. At the end of 1 hour cycle straightened it out again with rubber mallet(i do Everything with it:)...Seems to've worked. It definitely hardened,and after that first tempering cycle felt,oh,maybe just a tiny touch softer than my commercial processing knives? I don't really want it diamond-hard...Especially for experimenting with using that delicate long tip as a drill and a mortising attachment...But,we'll see.The learning process continuing!
  17. Another insight into how the finish Was,or would look "best" in our execution,is of course our interpreting the technique of manufacture. How WAS it made?What characteristic finish did the process impart?.... (an EXCELLENT post by Alan as i'm writing this...Great stuff!!!). I once met this madman(literally),and this one emphatic statement from him i'll never forget.He said several times,describing his approach to building :"High-tech principle/Low-tech application". I think it can be applied in a general sense to many ancient working methods.Alan says it all best,i'll just add that what really impressed me once and made me think was when the Chinese analysed those two ritual axes they have in one of the museums that are made of Carborundum. How do you polish Corund,which is #9 on that scale of hardness where 1 is chalk and 10 diamond?Right,only using diamond. And sure nuff,microscopy reveals scratches made by crushed diamond(probably just per Alan's description,on a piece of oil-impregnated leather,walrus or not i'm not sure they can tell:). So,it is known from archaeology done by J.Giddings for example(on ancient Inuit culture in Western Alaska,Pt.Hope et c.,some sites dating back as far as 5500 years i believe),that those guys were really into their microblades. So much so,apparently,that the flakes and fragments constiture a significant component of the very beaches they inhabited. A Very high-tech principle,that,to make an engraving burin out of very soft matrix tipped with something very hard... From all this we may safely assume that technical limitations were Not the factor in design or execution,that all those guys were capable of just about Anything...They were guided in their design by utility principles of many kinds,but Not a lack of technologies.
  18. Ok,Aiden,a few more loose thought on this very important issue-just How far we go in finishing these?And in what direction(-s)?! Something i forgot to mention about that fish-cutting video:When the guy shows off his sheath,he deliberately points out the Elaborate manner in which it was made.He marvels about how closely/evenly those prick-marks are made(and awl or knife-point).Those we know from Aboimov to be a part of the locking mechanism that keeps the metal parts adhering to wood. He also admires those C-shapes burned into the exposed parts of wooden sheaf,and you can see how about them too the maker wasn't lazy-they're stacked very close together. Those Nikolay mentions specifically in one of his videos.He tells how a guy would make up 2-3 little bent-wire pokers,and sitting by the fire at end of the day would have them all heating up and using them in turn to burn in those decorative marks. All that helps us to see the Whole picture,how they were working in general,what were their requirements,circumstances,et c. We know that a knife is really kinda inseparable from it's sheath,right?Look at puukot,leuku(what's pl. for leuku?:)...they all have their very distinct,characteristic sheaths,complete with style,decoration,material et c. So if a knife+it's sheath make an equation(and i argue they do),then the sheath must be then telling us enough about the degree of knife finish. They Must be balanced,and probably by intuition,and "artistic" vision,we must try to achieve that balance...
  19. So,fairly recently Aiden brought up this interesting matter,the knives of different people inhabiting the northern regions and the Arctic coast of Eurasia.If anyone is interested we've been discussing it here: And that reminded me that i actually been asked some time ago to make something of the sort,and so am finally getting off my duff about it. It isn't an objective to reproduce any of those very specific knives,but more to work "in the spirit" of that region. This will be a weird thread,kind of a making of a knife by a non-knifemaker,and for everyone really interested in this subject i suggest you find Aiden's thread "Northern knives" for a legit process. Anyway,not really owning a grinder or any other knife-making gear,i decided to be sneaky and use WI in all critical parts that'd need to be ground and filed(and fullered,this thing will need a considerable fuller on one side). So i forged out a piece of WI,and welded a identical size piece of 15N20 to the back of it.I tried to keep the steel as flat and nice as possible,so i wouldn't have to work too hard at shaping it after:) This knife will be convex on the back,which will act as a single bevel.The other side will be dead-flat,plus have a sizable fuller. That is how many of this region's knives work,and it is also so that my friend,who's terrible at sharpening(worse even than me:(..),can place the flat side down to the stone,and sharpen without worrying about maintaining angle(then just de-burr lightly on convex side). So since i've welded a rectangular blank i now had to convex the back somehow.The edge steel is only .100 thick,so i couldn't very well screw around too much... So,before i pointed the blank,i drove in the fuller.I did it using my cross-pein as a set-tool(please don't ever do that;you're never supposed to strike two hardened surfaces together).After the fuller was in i went to correct the edges some,couple missed blows et c. In the process i realised that because of fuller being there the blank curved up in just the direction i needed it to...So i helped it to do that some more,and didn't have to try to figure nuffink out-i had my convex back surface. So then i just used an angle grinder to grind most of the thickness of WI off of the edge that will be the Edge.I couldn't very well forge that in,as WI is Way soft,and 15N20 so skinny already...it wouldn't have worked. After grinding i did hammer the edge with the flat against the anvil face,close to one of my(nicely radiused)edges.It worked well,it was easy to keep the forging from twisting,it being cupped and all. So now i had this skewed to a knife-edge blank that i went ahead and cut the point on,for good measure. And that's what it looked like: And the back side: I wend immediately to grinding the whole deal,and these were my regrets very soon:I was so happy to've had good access to forging in the bevel that i overdid it,in one place,and not being able to grind that thin steel too much,i may get screwed there yet...we'll see. But i didst grind it pretty darn flat,using my filthy little upsidedown 3x21,and then was up against having to clean up that fuller. I wanted to try scraping it clean,so quickly and dirtily(like i do everything:(... i shaped a left-over chunk of file to about the right shape: (sorry about the lousy photo,wanted to show what that bit of file looks like.I then chucked it into a broken axe-handle,and went to town on that fuller). Now i regretted not doing a better job forging the fuller...I easily Could have.My too-ugly-to-be-called-sen workied ok,but as such tools do,it actually accentuated the bumps and gullies...So i may have to use my peanut grinder to brush that disgrace out afterall... (it also jumped out of the fuller at times gouging my beautiful newly-ground flat!I'm learning that it takes a lot of patience to be a knifemaker...but it's kinda fun too:) Well,i'll finish the blade the best i can,see if i can explode it in HT,and add to this if it survives.I did learn a couple things today,and have food for some further thoughts too,so it's all worth it.
  20. Aiden,that's one of them million-dollar questions!:) It's probably the most difficult balance to strike. You're a modern maker,working in a tradition of very accurate geometric lines,nearly-perfect surfaces,very machine-work degree of precision and fit. I think that it's a very good thing,and only being technically better,more advanced than say Evenki in this case,can you then adjust "down",so to speak.Never the other way around-afterall,you must wrap your mind around any technique you wish to practice,be able to envision what it was like for the original maker,and the best way of doing that is being more Broadly experienced. So with your knowledge of and access to modern equipment you can do that,you can get there. But making knives is an Art,it is a language whereby you communicate to someone else,a system of symbols if you will.That involves even more of your potential capacities,very complex interplay of intuition and vision and spatial relationships. I think you're Very good at mensuration and precision of craft,and you're Very good at reading and re-interpreting these complex shapes. You're smart-all the cultural background is not lost on you.You're young,your mind is flexible,and you're keeping it open,too!:) I think you have All the potential that one can possibly desire to get Any place you'd set your mind on!These knives are probably just one of the stepping stones,but i think you're progressing excellently along with them! So good,in fact,that you've led me into temptation...I actually needed to make something like this for a few years now,a close friend asked me for a Sakha-like knife...So today i embarked on forging some hybrid between several of these we've been discussing. I won't clutter this thread for us,Alan wisely pinned it so it be a repository for all we manage to dig up collectively,i'll stick it elsewhere and maybe throw a link in here later(as we should link your "Northern knives" thread to here.)
  21. Yes,second video is cool. Nikolai is cool.He don't say too much,but everything he does say is pretty much to the point. Now the third video: He says in the beginning that the knife is typical for Evenki it being on the thicker side(though not as thick as is more usual). Knife is made out of an old file,but hasn't been forged,just reduced by whatever means. Apparently,whoever ground it out of a file controlled it well enough(or thought he did),to temper it down from original file hardness. But Mikolai has tempered it down yet softer,he likes for his knife to take an edge quickly once he stops to resharpen. His requirement seems to be able to sharpen the knife on whatever rock happens to be in the vicinity. Then he talks about Evenki being able to make a knife out in the field out of Anything.Valves/scythes/files et c.,et c.,way out on the tundra out of a broken trap spring. They anneal the steel and shape the knife by forging and finish with a file.Quenching is done by making a wooden trough and filling it with soap,fat,or melted parrafin from candles. When in the village they use gear lube(70-90 w),occasionally floated on top of water. At the very end he mentions how uneven heating warps the blade at times,and it shatters at attempts to straighten as quenched or after tempering... On the table with the knives is an old classic of the soviet era,a mechanical hack-saw blade.Those are still sold among knifemakers there,and are a popular material.He views it as good stuff but on the thin side.
  22. Ok,just watched that first video. Not sure about his fish-cutting;i'm entirely unfamiliar with Japanese ways,but for around here that'd be pretty unskilled cutting(cuts themselves are quite different here too,but of course these are some serious fish-eating injuns,it's the main staple here). He says that he got the knife from Evenki man(for a bottle,as he states with satisfaction:(,as he points out just how much work went into the sheath.....).But had to re-grind it himself. I kept looking for convexity on the right side,but i don't think i see it...The left is where he shaped that single bevel He also talks of the right side being "flat",or "straight"...So i think i'm leaning towards it being a store-bought blade(it's got that peculiarly high-gloss finish),originally symmetrical,handled and sold by Evenki.
  23. Conner,i think you done great.I really like how fair(technical term)you forged to a taper and bent that tail for handle.Very nice job on that,and the rest too. Respect!:)
  24. Hi,Tim,really nice to see you on here.Heard your name for years,in connection with your knifemaking and the forge too,of course. I like the way you finished that blade,i like that texture.It's appealing on some instinctive,gut level.Somewhat like the very classy old architectural ironwork by Yellin and few others. And that forged-in bevel line,very satisfying to look at. Good for the old iron-addled brain!:)
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