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dustin reagan

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About dustin reagan

  • Birthday 01/31/1979

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oklahoma City, OK, USA
  • Interests
    Metal: forging it, making it, carving it, shaping it.
    Fighting: sport fencing (current "A" rated epee-ist), HEMA, WMA, Judo.
    Programming: game development, AI, statistical-analysis, web-programming, general hackery.

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  1. Supposedly austempering/marquenching is possible with simple 10xx, shallow hardening steels...I think it just requires specific conditions, stock-thicknesses & quench media. For example: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/view/4910652/the-knives-of-frank-j-richtig-as-featured-in-ripleys-believe-it-or-not- Also, a couple posts from this thread: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/260037-Austempering-Advantages?p=2167304#post2167304 http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/260037-Austempering-Advantages?p=2173647#post2173647 From reading this, it seems that for 10xx steel, low-temp salts are used & it's hard to get past the pearlite nose in thicknesses > 1/8". So, yeah...not really possible with what I was trying to do...oops, well, at least I learned something... Now, I really need to get off my ass and convert my vertical HT furnace into a salt pot!
  2. Ah! great point. Yes, this is Aldo's 1075...the dearth of manganese would make this even shallower hardening than normal. I totally forgot about that! Thanks for the reminder. I think this is most likely the culprit...the hot oil was probably unable to suck out the heat fast enough to get past the pearlite nose.
  3. Thanks for the feedback. I am positive that I was able to reach austentizing temp, since I was able to harden fine (just in my regular fast quench oil) at the exact same temperature (also I was able to watch for decalescence of the steel). To double check, I did use a magnet as well, on my normalization cycles. I was just trying something new, which I have read about before, which is to quench into hot oil, near the Ms point and hold until the blade reaches equilibrium temp with the hot oil, then let cool in air. Supposedly, this type of quench is less stressful (which means less warping, etc) and results in increased toughness at the same hardness level as a more drastic quench. It acted, though, like it wasn't getting past the pearlite nose...Maybe this sort of quench is better in a slower steel, like 5160...
  4. This weekend, I finally hardened a messer blade of 1075 I've been working on. I have a temperature controlled heat-treating furnace (a home-made vertical 2 burner furnace with a baffle -- it heats quite evenly), and I soaked at 1475F for 3 minutes, then quenched horizontally into 400F canola oil. I tried several times and could not get the blade to harden. Any tips? I was under the impression that this alloy should respond favorably to a hot-oil quench. I did manage to harden the blade, in my vertical fast quench oil quench tube, but I was hoping to try something new. Thanks, Dustin
  5. For knives, I typically temper 1075 starting at 400F. I would suppose that for a sword-length blade, I should temper a bit higher? Any recommendations? Thanks, Dustin
  6. After a hiatus, I am finally at work again. I'm working on a reproduction of this messer: My question is, what is the likely construction method of the pommel? Here are a couple closer pictures (unfortunately, this is all I have to go on, as well as some measurements): I'm guessing that there's a little 'sub-tang' on the hilt, and a corresponding hole was slit/drifted in the pommel (In the second picture up, it looks like you can see where the sub-tang pokes through). Another possibility is that the pommel was forge welded on, in two pieces. Thoughts? Does anyone know, definitively how these sorts of messer pommels were constructed? Thanks, Dustin
  7. Personally, If I had the capabilities, or knew a heat-treater who did, I'd go for 5160, with a bainitic heat-treatment. Supposedly 5160 @ 54 RC in bainite is an order of magnitude tougher than 5160 @54 RC in martensite: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/260037-Austempering-Advantages?p=2169885#post2169885 (look at post #16 -- link should take you to the post, but sometimes it doesn't)
  8. Hamon + double edged + assymetry = Amazing! Nice lines!
  9. Just an update. I sent the Seax to its new owner. Here is a comparison shot between the artifact and the reproduction. It's close, but there are some slight differences:
  10. Yes, good question. I live in Oklahoma, and we visit DFW area at least a couple times a year...
  11. You could potentially get the benefits of an oil quench, without the nosedive. Take a long look at this thread: Inducing positive curvature (upward sori) in a shinogi-zukuri katana using OIL
  12. Nice package! The sheath especially has a very authentic "roughness" to it...very well done!
  13. Thanks for the comments. As far as the shape goes, here is the blade I was going for. It's supposedly a 4th century Frankish knife that an acquaintance gave his wife as a present: I personally think the knife probably had more of a belly when new, as the belly of a knife tends to get sharpened away first, but he wanted the blade to look as close to the shape as it went into the ground as possible. I think I got close, except for the tip, which on mine curves up a bit more than on the original (the water quench had some influence on this).
  14. This is my first completed blade from my own bloomsteel. The blade was made as a commission based on a small antique knife owned by an acquaintance (he's going to hilt it himself). It's very small...very narrow with about a 4.25" long blade. Notice the very distinct auto-hamon. The steel is very shallow hardening & I did not use any clay. I had to quench into water to get it to harden at all. I think part of the reason it was so shallow hardening is that I normalized too agressively (I did 4 normalizations, at 1600F, 1550F, 1500F, and 1450F). Then I did two quenches into oil...one at 1450F and one at 1470F (neither of which produced martensite). Finally, I quenched into room-temp water at 1470F. All these normalizations and quenches may have reduced the grain-size so much that hardenability was affected. This blade has either 64 or 128 layers (I got distracted and lost count of the folds).
  15. Usually I am not a fan of nosedive in seax, but here I like it! That is a nice and sturdy spine, I'm sure it feels nice in the hand.
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