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B. Norris

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Everything posted by B. Norris

  1. Provided that you mount the anvil well, a heavy stand will add to the effective weight of your anvil. ~Bruce~
  2. Thompson's Scandinavian Knife Supply (an affiliate of Brisa in Sweden) has birch bark, it is listed under Other Knife Handle Materials. Also, if you will check the last article from the August 2012 post on Nordiska Knivar - it is about the horsehead puukkos and gives some interesting history. Nordiska Knivar Traditional Nordic Knives is a website which features various puukkoseppa in a blog format. Very inspiring! ~Bruce~
  3. How about this? A minimum of 3 inches blade length. Small blades will allow more people to participate and make the KITH more lively. If someone wanted to go bigger, that would be fine but, it is not required. Puukko do not get very large, in general. If you want to make a big blade... Do a Leuku instead of Puukko, Heck, make a set with Leuku and Puukko. If you do, I hope I get your entry! Stick tang knife with scandinavian grind, i.e. no secondary bevel to the edge other than a micro-bevel. Blade of a diamond cross section with the ridge 1/3 of the width from the spine. No plunge cuts and ricasso, just diamond cross section all the way to the handle. blade ground with 17 degree bevel (per side, 34 degrees included.) Unless you do a Leuku, in which case use classic shape, thickness, and grind. Traditional, leather sheath, with wood insert, is part of the package. A good challenge to develop some new skills. Incorporate as many found, unexpected, or scrap components as possible. Make something that fits the traditional aesthetic with out the requirement of traditional materials. Maybe you have small pieces of scrap micarta that you plan to use in place of a stacked, birch bark, handle. If you want to use traditional materials that would be fine too. Names to be drawn July 31. ~Bruce~
  4. Hunter, A few possibilities: 1) The kilns temperature is not accurate. Perhaps the lack of scale is an indicator of not reaching temperature? Did you check with a magnet before quenching? 2) Your quench is too slow or does not have enough volume. Lowering the temperature of your oil will not help, hot oil is less viscous and circulates more readily, cooling a blade faster than cold oil. If you are lowering the temperature of the oil because the volume is low, you may not cool the steel quickly enough during that crucial half second. You can easily check if the quench is the problem by quenching a test coupon into warm/hot water and seeing if it hardens. Be sure to use a test piece that, should it crack, will not upset you! 3) Has the decarbeurized layer been removed prior to testing for hardness? This was mentioned previously but, you did not mention anything in this regard. ~Bruce~
  5. Hunter, 1095 could be giving you trouble on a number of fronts. Your mix of 1095 and 15n20 is still hyper-eutectic and I will just use 1095 for the sake of simplicity. You have something like 0.5 seconds to get from the austenitization temperature (in this case 1475 Fahrenheit) to below the Ms (Martensite start) temperature. I have seen numbers ranging from around 500 degrees F to 1200 F for the Ms temperature of 1095. The point is, are you certain that the cooking oil you are using will cool the steel, that much, in less than half a second? This is the reason quenchants like Parks 50 or Tough-quench, from Brownells, are recommended for shallow hardening steels. Another, riskier, option is to quench into hot water for a few seconds and then into oil until cool enough to touch. You could also really take chances and just quench into water. Next, are you certain that the steel was at the temperature the kiln was set at? This may sound elementary but, different heating methods take different amounts of time for the steel to reach temperature. Electric kilns are among the slowest. I am making the assumption that your kiln is calibrated and accurate. 1095 also requires a soak time, at temperature, once it has been reached. This is necessary with hyper-eutectoid steels, like 1095, to ensure there is enough carbon in the matrix to harden. Around 10 minutes should do the trick. If you are taking your steel, putting it in the kiln, waiting 10 minutes and then, quenching. The steel may have just reached the Austenitization temperature but, not had any time to soak, and not enough carbon is in the matrix to reach full hardness. There should be no appreciable grain growth at your austenitization temperature of 1475, leaving it in there longer will not cause an unwanted state in the steel but, not leaving it in long enough will. ~Bruce~
  6. That is a nice start but, where are the other ten? ~Bruce~
  7. The single biggest thing you could do, is to control your light levels so that you are better able to judge the temperature of the metal. ~Bruce~
  8. David, My solution (not saying the best solution) is to use a 1/16" bit and 1/16" stock. I cut the stock a bit longer than needed (fudge factor) then chuck it into a drill and run some coarse paper, with a hard backing, over it. The backing is necessary to keep the pin from developing high and low spots. You need to take off enough material that it fits the hole just right. A bit of practice beforehand is a good idea. Flip the pin over and do the other side and you are done. The coarse grit gives the glue something to hold when you epoxy it all together. With 1/16" stock you will need a delicate touch or, just support the backside of the stock somehow. ~Bruce~
  9. Sending your wood out, to an outfit like WSSI, and having it professionally stabilized would likely solve all of the problems you mentioned. Well, maybe not the copper fleck! That said, what is wrong with the way the wood looks on this handle? So, it was darker than you wanted or expected but, it still looks good and fits the knife. Good job on the knife too, BTW! ~Bruce~
  10. Love those pictures of you hammer setting that flower jade cabochon! ~Bruce~
  11. Good work but... That groove around the junction of handle and bolster is quite distracting! ~Bruce~
  12. This is your chance guys, to thank an administrator here (and especially Alan!) for everything they do. Thanks Alan, and everyone else! ~Bruce~
  13. Beautiful work (as always!) on those fittings Richard. Whomever commissioned this set is a very lucky person. The keeper for the strap on the frog is a masterful touch. ~Bruce~
  14. Like the brut de forge take on a Tanto. ~Bruce~
  15. Puukko, Sgian Dubh, or Boot Knife! ~Bruce~
  16. Keep skimming through the forum and catching the title of this post except... My brain reads it as "Garbage Cables!" ~Bruce~
  17. Thank you for the link George. You sure got lucky this year Pieter-Pauld, glad to hear you like it! ~Bruce~
  18. Caleb, My take on your work (assuming I had the money to actually buy knives!) is that you are still an emerging maker. I might buy a knife from you, if it were marked with your makers mark and inexpensive enough that I would not be passing over other knives I really wanted. My goal would be to hold on to it on the off chance that your career blossomed. In the long run, it would be fun to wave under your nose in ten or twenty years! Your work shows quite a bit of potential but, you would do yourself a favor if you developed your skills further before taking on new challenges. What I mean by this is, you posted a knife (about three knives ago) and asked for critique. Some very good points and suggestions were made. I was very impressed by the maturity you showed in asking for criticism and left that post thinking... "The next knife this guy makes is going to be awesome!" Personally, I was really looking forward to the next few knives but, each one left me disappointed because, I felt that instead of addressing the issues with fit and finish - you attempted a new challenge and settled with workmanship that is less than you are capable of. My advice to you would be to slow down a bit and be more methodical with your work. Pick a knife type, bowies for example, and make a few. Make each one better than the last and when you reach the point where you are satisfied (i.e. any flaws you can point out yourself in the knife really are minor) move on to a new challenge. The skills you have developed in getting to that point with your previous work will carry over. One of the points previously made in this topic is that before you can sell knives, your customer must trust you and the quality of your fit and finish is a big part of developing that trust. This is not intended meanly. You asked and this is, I feel, a brutally honest reply. ~Bruce~
  19. Hah! I've a couple pairs of old, wrought iron, tongs on my rack that I never use... ~Bruce~
  20. B. Norris

    KITH Kard design

    Any progress on your knife? I know the KITH has passed but, seems sad to shelve the project. ~Bruce~
  21. Great job George. I'm jealous of Pieter-Pauld, his luck this year (hopefully) makes up for the disappointment last year. Care to share your source of briar for knife handles? Seems like a good wood to use: looks good, good stability, has intrinsic value, etc. ~Bruce~
  22. Any progress on this project James and did you see the knife Roman Stoklasa recently posted in forged Elmax? Bruyere ~Bruce~
  23. Gary, The knives you make, while not usually exact copies, have the same "presence" and appeal as historical examples. Not to mention a higher level of "fit and finish" than most of the originals. IMHO, you have, quietly and steadily, developed into one of the top smiths for historically influenced knives from N. America. Thanks for sharing about the AR show as well. ~Bruce~
  24. That is a genuinely good idea. Have you seen any of the videos Walter Sorrell sells? One of them, I think the one on Hamons, has a tool he built to hold the sandpaper. The idea is that it clamps the paper over the edge of a bar and he applies the blade to the corner, instead of the usual clamp the blade and bring the paper to the blade idea. The basis for doing so is that you can use every little bit of the, expensive, sandpaper that way. I've been playing around with EDM, or diemaker's, stones and really like them. They are much more economical than sandpaper but, sandpaper still works better for a, final, satin finish on a blade. If you try out the stones, a hard stone, such as the ones called "EDM" or "RES-CUT", is my preference. It also helps to have an inexpensive, coarse, diamond stone to flatten or shape the stones to match the contour you are working. ~Bruce~
  25. Out of curiosity, what is it about the fully sharpened forward edge that you do not want to do it again? ~Bruce~
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