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B. Norris

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Everything posted by B. Norris

  1. The most important tool you can have is knowledge. Use your money (or perhaps save a little more) and attend a class. You will learn much more and far faster then just buying one piece of equipment. Also, consider filling out your profile. You could live right down the block from me and I wouldn't know! My point is, the members here are a generous bunch and if you are close to anyone, you will probably get an invite to visit. ~Bruce~
  2. Is it done yet! Looking very good but, wanna see it finished. Maybe a scabbard too... ~Bruce~
  3. Good to see the fruit of all that hard work. Assuming the knife is destined for your kitchen, please let us know a bit more about it and how it performs. ~Bruce~
  4. Nice knife. You should consider trying a tapered tang in the future, you will be amazed how it changes the feel of the knife in hand. Wood looks familiar but, it is very hard to say, my guess would be mesquite or something in the acacia family. ~Bruce~
  5. Wish I could hold that in hand. Great job there. ~Bruce~
  6. Too bad it's blunt! Doing the engraving had to be nerve wracking... You made it through though. Any plans for a sheath? ~Bruce~
  7. Good work there Ben! ~Bruce~
  8. Nice! Looking forward to finished pictures. ~Bruce~
  9. Nice, clean, work! I am sure your customer will love it. You should do a few more of these. ~Bruce~
  10. Really like this one Richard. Your treatment of the antler and the color of the spring are masterful. I too hope that it make a sinister, ratcheting, noise when opened! Best wishes for the up-coming surgery. ~Bruce~
  11. That looks like a chopper for sure, Mark. Makes me feel like a little kid again, just wanting to run off into the woods and hack stuff up! ~Bruce~
  12. Very nice work. ~Bruce~
  13. Always a fun ride to do something different! That looks quite nice Rob. ~Bruce~
  14. Ben, I really dig these. They look big and beefy. ~Bruce~
  15. That is going to be nice when done. Just go slow fitting those scales! I've seen a billet cut for the feather pattern before. The Mastersmiths doing it used a very blunt, wood splitting wedge, welded to the top die in a press. It looked like they had intentionally ground the end of the wedge at a more obtuse angle, about 45 degrees. Going off memory, the width of the wedge, where the bevels ended was about 1/2 inch. ~Bruce~
  16. Nice work John, that looks like quite a bit of fun to make! How is your hunt for a place going? ~Bruce~
  17. Jul, Those are gorgeous! And tiny! Having the opportunity to touch so many lives and even, sometimes, to create community, seems to me the most compelling reason to spend so much time, effort, blood, sweat, and heartache making rings, or knives, or whatsits. This is one area where "modern" just falls short and it is such a source of disappointment to me that so many of my customers have been so well trained to just give me their money and have no further contact. In my eyes, it is so much better to know the person who made the object you buy, to be able to give them feedback in the future, and, most of all, to share in a bit of their story and have them share in a bit of yours. ~Bruce~
  18. I keep coming back to look at this one. That is truly inspiring work. ~Bruce~
  19. The original was clearly intended to impress. Your work in re-creating it is no less impressive. Still, it should have had a pattern welded blade! Maybe on the next one. ~Bruce~
  20. That blade is sweet Michael! I quite like how the line between the wrought and the W1 is wavy from the trip hammer blows. Good to hear your hammer is up, running, and that you are using it. Hopefully, I'll be joining the power hammer owners club myself in the next few years. ~Bruce~
  21. Sorry to hear about the langseax self destructing but, this looks very good to me. I like the lap weld in the wrought iron bar, a bit of added character from the metals previous life! Not to mention the bug holes in the oak. How did you deal with them by the way, fill with epoxy or superglue, or just leave them be? The two other knives look very nice also. ~Bruce~
  22. The broken-back seax has a handle length of 7 & 5/8 inches. OAL of 17 & 1/2 inches. Blade is 10 inches long, 1 & 5/8 inches wide at the break, and 1/4 inch thick for most of the length. Handle is some nice, straight grained, walnut in a teardrop cross section. This thing feels very tool like in the hand, sort of like some farmer cut the handle down on a polearm and started using it as a knife. Steel is up-cycled leaf spring but, not the usual 5160, 9260, or 6150, it acts more like a 10xx steel, maybe 1060. The Viking knife, with the carved, antler, bolster has a handle length of 4 & 5/8 inches. OAL of 8 & 7/8 inches. Blade is just slightly under 4 & 1/2 inches, 5/8 inch wide at the widest point, thickness is about 1/8 inch. The wood on this one is Milo, a hardwood from Hawaii that is similar to Koa. Steel is up-cycled coil spring, most likely 9260, it seems to have a ghost of a hamon to it. The small Viking has a handle length of 4 & 1/8 inch, not counting the ring or its keeper. OAL of just under 7 & 3/4 inches. Blade is 3 & 5/8 inches, 9/16 inch wide at the widest point, thickness is just a hair under 1/8 inch. Wood on this handle, as previously mentioned, is Red Oak Burl. Steel is 6150 and might show a hamon if I polished and worked at it. Right now it is at 400 grit and then etched . This one came out with the blade not quite in line with the handle. I guess my wife gets to keep this one like she wants to! The Puukko had a handle of around 4 inches but, is already sold so I cannot give exact measurements. The handle is some curly birch I found with a traditional flaxseed (linseed) oil finish. I was reading about spoon carving and one of the websites I stumbled upon mentioned soaking the fresh carved spoons in flaxseed oil for 3 days or so, until they stop absorbing oil. The birch wood is quite thirsty and really soaks the oil up. The flaxseed oil is supposed to polymerize and harden up a bit after a few months. The oil has quite a yellow cast to it but, even so, I really like it. No other oil I've used seems to bring out the character of the wood quite like the flaxseed oil! ~Bruce~
  23. This might be up your alley. Blekinge County Museum ~Bruce~
  24. Brooch comes from North Star Armoury. The relief work is made by acid etching. The hardest part of carving with the dremel, is finding burrs small enough and having the right shape! Burrs for the dremel either seem to be very small, 1/32"-1/16", for engraving work or quite large 1/4" or so. I ended up using some diamond burrs, mostly because I already had them and the size and shapes worked for what I was doing. ~Bruce~
  25. Emiliano, The one with the ring has a handle of Red Oak Burl. I soaked it in a strong tea solution to darken it up a bit. Also wiped it down with vinegaroon, then sanded the black off. The black doesn't sand out of any of the porous areas and tends to accent the grain. Yes, the first one has a carved, whitetail, ferrule. I started carving the antler, by hand but, did not make much progress. After attending Axe 'N" Seax-in" and seeing Petr's demonstration... I grew a pair and finished it up with the dremel! This knife will also have a ring on the end of the handle, when it is done. ~Bruce~
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