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B. Norris

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Everything posted by B. Norris

  1. Here is where it is at now. Still need to sand the spine, clean up the tang, and make the handle. This thing is seriously hard, I keep having problems with the edge chipping out, just trying to sharpen it, and am wondering if waterstones would be softer and present fewer problems. ~Bruce~
  2. Here are three pictures, from different angles, of the same blade. Admiral Steel 1095, Satanite clay, Parks 50 quench, heated by eye in the forge. Polish is EDM stones to 1200 grit followed by 1500 & 2000 grit, Silicon Carbide, paper. Etched for 15 minutes in Lemon Juice. Lemon Juice was applied to blade with paper towel and blade was kept wetted. Polished, by hand, with 10000 grit AO compound from Supergrit. Etched agin, with Lemon Juice, for another 15 minutes then polished as before. ~Bruce~
  3. Some pictures of the weekends progress. Right now it is sitting at 1200 grit, I have sandpaper in 1500 and 2000 grits plus polishing compound in 3000, 5000, and 10000 grit. I am contemplating etching the blade at some point as well because, I am curious about the steel this thing is made from. I took out, relatively, large chip at the heel of the blade by changing the angle of the drop, so the line is slightly straighter than the original. After working the concavity on the "flat" side, with each grit, I then laid it flat on the stone and worked at flattening the edges, eventually I switched to my medium grit, ceramic, stone from Spyderco because, it is larger and easier to get things really flat on. The area near the tip is not quite right but, the tip profile is going to change and I am waiting until afterwards to clean it up. Still lots of work to do. The spine is still untouched and needs to be done. The tip profile needs to be adjusted to get rid of the grinder damage. I wonder if the tip was broken and this was an attempt to put a new tip on and make it sell-able? Then the bevel needs to be re-done. I will do the profiling, carefully, on the KMG but, I am wondering about the bevel. My inclination is towards using a rougher grit Blaze belt to do the grunt work and then switching to finishing by hand to avoid issues with overheating. I do not want to mess it up but, that is a lot of metal to take off by hand! The Blaze belts run really cool and at a slow enough speed on the KMG it should be controllable. The tang is not shaped properly and I will have to thin it out a bit as well. Here is a picture of where it is at now. ~Bruce~
  4. Just to tilt the odds in your favor... You could use Aldo's 1075 (shallowest hardening, commercially available, steel I know of) in combination with some 52100 (more chromium than O1 and, therefore, deeper hardening.) ~Bruce~
  5. Whoa! What's not to like? Those pictures on the Vikverir website are great, definitely taken by someone with the eye of a craftsman. ~Bruce~
  6. The handle came off without a hitch. Yes! Started working on the non-beveled side of the blade with the stones last night and ended up resorting to 120 grit. The pitting from rust did not seem too bad until I attempted to remove it! There are still a few little spots, here and there. I will go to 240 grit next and evaluate any remaining pitting, especially in areas near the edge. Here is what it looks like now, I tried to avoid erasing the stamp and will just get that area as best I can at the higher grits. ~Bruce~
  7. Found this video while researching about this knife. ~Bruce~
  8. Round handles will easily turn in the hand while chopping. Ask me how I know and I'll show you the scar! Make the handle oval or teardrop in cross section, anything but round! What metal is the guard made from? My only other critique would be to use the same metal for the twisted wire of the grip. Last of all some good advice that somebody once gave me. Mix up some epoxy and use a toothpick to apply it to the bottom of the groove for the wire before putting the wire in place. The excess will wipe off easily and the glue will give it a little extra hold. ~Bruce~
  9. The very best post vise stand is simply a post... Something like an 8"x8", about 6-10 feet long, buried in the ground. Having room around the vise is also a very good idea. The best portable stand, IMHO, is a large container such as a 55 gallon drum. Cut it down to the right height, reinforce the top and bottom edge. Add a semi-circular plate, on top, to bolt to, and a ring for the foot of the vise at the bottom. Don't forget a drain plug! A 55 gallon drum, that has not been cut down, holds about 459 pounds of water, not including the weight of the barrel. That makes for a very sturdy stand and it does double duty as a slack tub. ~Bruce~
  10. Once it is welded, ONLY forge it at welding heat thereafter. I know I've broken this rule myself, I know others routinely break it but, sooner or later, it will bite you. ~Bruce~
  11. Found this at a Flea Market for cheap and had to do something to rectify the abuse this beauty has been through. Judging from the damage, this knife has suffered from a lack of care for quite some time... First of all, it was used as a cleaver, going off the way the handle is cracked - Deba knives, incidentally, should NEVER be used in this fashion! Secondly, used to cut stuff it was not intended to cut, going off of the numerous chips in the edge, none of which are too large thank goodness. Deba knives are much harder than western cutlery, and therefore can chip out if used for anything except the intended purpose, in this case cutting up fish. Lastly, attacked with a motorized grinding stone in a misguided attempt to "clean" it up. This last one damaged the tip especially. Sending this out for professional repair would likely cost somewhere between $100-$200 and that is just not in the budget. Therefore, I will be doing the work myself. My plan is to re-shape the tip profile, as indicated by the black sharpie. Clean up the concave surfaces on the back and above the bevel with some high grit EDM stones. Re-establish the bevel to follow the new shape of the edge and attempt to crisp up the line where the bevel meets the upper surface of the blade. Remove the handle and fabricate a replacement. One wood used in Japan for handles (aside from Ho) is Ichii, or Japanese Yew, Taxus cuspidata. My thoughts are leaning towards finding some dwarf ornamental yew (many houses in the area have them and it should be possible to get some) and a horn bolster. I will have to find a horn for cheap somewhere that I can cut up to get the right piece from near the tip. My research indicates that this knife was from the 1950's time frame. Sold through a company in Japan called Masano or Masado (I saw the name but, forget the spelling now) but, made by individual smiths. All seem to have the flimsy brass ferrule instead of the traditional horn, most likely to reduce cost. A review, by some fellow in Sweden, on YouTube, indicates he is very enthusiastic about the one he got. A translation of the Japanese text, by those who can, would be most appreciated. I suspect what it says already (an indication of the type of steel used and construction) but, might be surprised. Advice, from those who know, would be appreciated as well. Thanks! ~Bruce~
  12. Have you seen the GIB (Grinder In a Box) kit that Jamie Boley of Polar Bear Forge sells? Hands down the best value for the money. However, they are not plug and play. You will have to build it. He just provides the parts for the grinder frame. You will still have to come up with contact wheels, nuts and bolts, idler wheels, a motor, etc. Still... You get a grinder, comparable in quality to a KMG, for quite a bit less. My opinion about grinders is that this is one of the singularly most important tools to a knifemaker. Therefore, it makes sense to put the money down and buy a high quality grinder. Should knifemaking not work out, you will always be able to re-sell a high quality grinder. Cheaper grinders do not hold value nearly so well. Also, cheaper grinders will not do the work as efficiently as the higher quality machines. Let's say you can grind a knife out in 1 hr. on a good grinder and 3 hrs. on a cheap one. 30 knives later the good grinder has saved you 60 hrs. worth of your time. A good grinder will more than pay for itself, just in the value of the time that it saves! ~Bruce~
  13. "it took maybe an entire hour, or what seemed like an hour, using the Trizact to get one side of a large flat-ish grind gyuto done. the unetched hamon was not showing as well as it was previously at this grit, i think because the belt was basically burnishing the steel. in retrospect, that's simply a ridiculous amount of time for one side of a knife and one grit." Wide, flat, grinds are hell on belts. There is so much surface area, all in contact with the belt, that it is nearly impossible to bring adequate pressure to bear and keep the belts from glazing. More so the fine belts than the coarse ones because, the higher grits generate more heat and the instinct is to use less pressure. You can verify what I am saying by using a brand new belt on your blade, it will cut much better at first and then take longer and longer to get the scratches out. The same belts, on a contact wheel and hollow grinding, will not seem appreciably duller. The same belts on a smaller surface area will not seem dull because, more pressure can be used and the higher pressure will do what is intended for these belts and break away dull grit, exposing fresh, sharp, grit. You can use belts up like they were free and slate the "dull" ones for some other purpose, such as hollow grinding - this approach will make the most of your time but, cost in belts. You can say "the heck with this" and just sand the blade out by hand - this will probably take less time than using the dull belts but, more than using belts like they were free. You could find a way to apply more pressure, without overheating the blade, either by using belt lubricant or wet grinding. Another option is finding a way to physically remove the "glaze" from the belts, the wire brush does not seem to be doing this. I have heard other knifemakers recommend using a brick (the high-fired ceramic ones, usually red) with as much pressure as possible, to remove dulled, "glazed", grit and expose the sharp, fresh, grit. I have done so myself and it does seem to work, though not as well a brand new belt and it needs to be repeated frequently and that uses a belt up at a much faster rate than otherwise. "maybe the steel is just extra hard. but the funny thing is the persistent scratches seem to lurk where the hamon isn't so if anything it's the softer steel that's not getting ground. like the softer steel is sitting in low spots." Sharp abrasives will cut the hard or the soft steel equally well. Dull abrasives will not cut the hard steel as well as the soft and you will have problems like you mentioned above. It is exactly the same as trying to sand metal pins in a wood handle, you have to use sharp paper (and a hard, flat, backing) or else the wood goes away and the metal does not. ~Bruce~
  14. You will need to level out the flat surfaces of the bevels and make the edge a consistent thickness. If not... It will give you no end to problems when you harden! Try using a round (chainsaw) file in the fuller until everything is even. ~Bruce~
  15. Many abrasive belts must be used with the correct amount of pressure. Use too little pressure and the belts can "glaze" and stop cutting before the abrasive is used up. Are you using the recommended amount of pressure with your belts? Don't the Trizact Belts contain a dry, lubricant? Perhaps, in the higher grits, it is more noticeable? Have you thought about using either the cork or felt belts that are now available, instead of the Trizact? Another thought is to use higher pressure on the Trizacts with the addition of belt lubricant, this might allow you to use the correct pressure without excessive heat buildup. ~Bruce~
  16. The manufacturer not making this model anymore is no indicator that the battery it uses is not available. I would put some time into finding a replacement battery and, perhaps, stockpile them if found. ~Bruce~
  17. The first one. A couple more. Last one finished. Still working on the sheath for this one. Oh! Whoops. You wanted only one. ~Bruce~
  18. That is a particularly inspired bit of pattern welding! Hard to believe from the picture that it is 30" long. Having Petr's distinctive touch on the furniture will only add to the package. I am looking forward to it... Eagerly! What's wrong with Viking Elves? They did, after all, give us the Ljósálfar (Light Elves - who are "fairer than the sun to look at") and the Dökkálfar (Dark Elves - who are "blacker than pitch" and live underground) concept which dominates the perception of "Elf" in pop culture. ~Bruce~
  19. Wieland, You never disappoint! Awesome. Just awesome! ~Bruce~
  20. Brandon, I forgot something. After you are done with the stones, use a strop, with stropping compound. You will be amazed by the difference before and after stropping. Here is one source for strops and compounds - StropMan. After making myself a strop (and learning that the red compound is too fine to use first) I do not consider a knife done until it has been stropped. After you have gotten a knife truly sharp, you will be able to keep it sharp for an amazingly long time by, simply, stropping it. ~Bruce~
  21. Brandon, Sharpening a knife, properly, is ninety nine percent technique. There are a plethora of entities trying to sell you gear and, in all fairness, they will get a knife sharp but... None of them will work if your basic technique is off. I recommend going to the thrift store and buying a bunch of cheap knives to practice on. Read through this article, Step-by-Step Knife Sharpening, then break out your Lansky System and go through all the steps in the article on a cheap, thrift store, knife. The single biggest mistake most people make is going up a grit too soon. You must be able to feel a "wire edge," over every bit of the edge, before stepping up a grit. The second most common mistakes people make is to sharpen with bevels that are not the same angle and/or, to rock the blade and "round" the edge over unevenly. The Lansky System is good because, if used properly, you will get bevels that are even on both sides and, also, because it helps you to develop a "feel" for doing it right. After you have gotten the basic technique down on the cheap knives, move on to a better quality knife. ~Bruce~
  22. Scott, This might work out well as an edge grinder if you can get grinding cylinders to fit it that are not a diamond abrasive. Here is a link to the owners manual. It does mention: "Never grind any metal (i.e. lead, copper) with the diamond head." I was hoping to find a source for replacement grinding cylinders but, the manufacturer does not have them listed anywhere on the website. They do, however, make a 1/4" diameter cylinder for the machine. My guess is the 2 original sizes/grits are available as replacement parts. You could probably find cylinders that will work, from other manufacturers, as long as the shaft of the cylinder head is a common size. For example my Dremel came with two sizes of expanding rubber drums that hold little, round, sandpaper belts. Of course, that is a bit of effort and money to put into a 1/12HP machine! ~Bruce~
  23. Chris, How is the Lapis priced, by the kilogram, gram, or carat? Any idea what a price point would be for us, on the board? Also, a good tip I was given, long ago, is that the dark, azure, blue (such as the nodule in the upper right of your photo) is considered a lower grade than a lighter, brighter, blue. Calcite (the white stuff) should not be present except in very low grade material and the size and amount of pyrite will also affect grade (and therefore price.) The reason I mention this is that it is common for lower grade lapis to be sold at the price point for a higher grade, especially to foreigners and neophytes. Caveat Emptor and all that. The lower grades (darker material) could be a very good value for the money, especially for things like knife handles, as long as one is not paying the higher price point. Below are some pictures to (hopefully) illustrate. High grade lapis rough. Lesser grade lapis rough. More on lapis here - The Collector: Lapis Lazuli Buying Guide ~Bruce~
  24. My last order of belts were a trial of the Blaze and the Trizact. The Blaze belts easily last three times longer than the cheaper belts. The higher grit belts (Trizact) do not seem to last any longer than the cheap ones but, what I do notice is that they run at least twice as cool and that is worth the extra expense to me. ~Bruce~
  25. Gabriel, Try any of the following: TruGrit Inc., Pop's Knife Supply, USA Knife Maker Supply There are other suppliers but, these are some of the ones that carry the better belts at reasonable prices and are a good place to try some different belts out until you can figure out what really works for you. Try the Custom Google Search that one of our members rigged up for us to search the forum for what type of belts and grits to order. Or, use Googles advanced search features to search just this domain, if you know how. TruGrit inc, (I have heard) is very good with suggesting what type of belts and grits the beginning knifemaker will need - just call them up and tell them what you are doing i.e. what steels you are working with, forging or just stock removal, etc. ~Bruce~
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