Jump to content

Jeremy Vaught

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jeremy Vaught

  1. Thanks fellas! Yeah Fred, it stinks, but not as bad as when you seal it with linseed oil. It did turn out comfy Tim. Gonna have to do more like it. This one is pretty thick in the grip, but the curve is nice in the palm.
  2. Hola people! I haven't been around much lately. Life hasn't allowed me in the shop much, but I'm starting to get back into the swing of things. Thought I'd share this one that I finally finished up. Specs Steel is 1095 clay hardened (interesting hardening line on this one, but I couldn't get a pic of it) Blade length from guard to tip is 4 1/4". Spine is 3/16". Handle is 4". Hidden tang is double pinned in the bocote and there is a black kydex spacer between the bocote and brass guard. Hope you enjoy lookin'. JV
  3. Thanks Brian. I haven't put a ruler to it yet, but I'd guess the blade length including ricasso is about 5". I did consider marking this blade on the ricasso, but I have always marked my blades in the same place. Decided to stick with it. As far as the etching, I mixed up about 10% ferric in water and etched for about 20 seconds, neutralized the acid, then rubbed with a 1500 grit paper/cloth. Did this 3 times. It is a little dark, but the photo does make it appear a little darker. Any tips on lightening it up?
  4. Thanks fellas! I'll put a pot of water on this evening.
  5. Hola people! When I do hidden tang knifes, I usually drill them out rough, heat the tang up and burn them on. Having never done that with antler (and this being the only piece I currently have), I'm a little hesitant to try it. Anyone have any advice they can offer before I screw this up? Thanks, JV
  6. I forged this clipper probably a year or so ago and it fell in the cracks. I finally got around to cleaning it up and HTing it last weekend and got it this far this morning. Deciding on furniture now. I'm leaning towards a buffalo horn guard, a healthy slice of western juniper and then a mystery antler I have laying around. I don't etch a lot of blades, so please...feel free to critique. I'm still working on technique. Thanks, JV
  7. I was having my wife help me with some hammering Friday. I was having her hold a piece of 3/4" O1 round while I pounded it into a piece of hot 1095 for a finger groove. The end of the O1 she was holding had been forge flat to about 1/4" and air cooled. The flat end broke right off in her hand (good thing she was wearing my welding gloves).
  8. Looks good Bob! I'll have to remember the boiling trick. JV
  9. After 2 months of avid searching, I'm getting really frustrated that a guy with my experience can't find a job in the industry I've been working in for a dozen years. So I figured an afternoon/evening of hunting would make me feel better. I took a new guy with me and he figited like a 5 year old. That doesn't work out welll when hunting coyotes/bobcats/mountain lions. I may go by myself tomorrow night.
  10. Santa brought me some tongs for bar stock and round stock from http://www.gstongs.com Love 'em!
  11. Or your water wasn't hot enough. I started in my forge, but now I have an oven with a controller on it and still crack them occassionally when I let my water cool too much before the dunk. All but one time, I've heard the "ping" when it cracked. Like John said, usually in more that one spot or a spider web. I've never used 1050, but I've used a fair bit of 1075/1080/1084. Never had a problem quenching in vegetable oil. I'm sure they would have gotten harder if I had used something faster, but I always got a nice line from it when edge quenching or clay coating.
  12. I'm not familiar with this stuff, but I'm interested. What makes it different/better than kydex? Thanks, JV
  13. If I remember correctly, NG is about 1/3 the BTU of LP. Don't hold me to that though.
  14. Very nice Martin. I really like the one's of the fowl. The duck is just plain purdy and the goose is kinda funny. Thanks for sharing.... JV
  15. Damn, I came to this thread to vent about the blade I cracked a little while ago. But after reading John's post, I feel like my blade is small beans. Sorry to hear about your troubles amigo. Remember, karma's a bitch. Hers will come.
  16. Looks damn useful for a firefighter/rescue tool. A chunck of D2 like that will have no problem prying a car door open. Nice work!
  17. I've never tried it like that, but I am about to do my first interrupted quench....a few seconds in warm water, then jump over to warm oil. I'm working on several pieces in 1095 right now. Thinking of swapping my veg oil for transmission fluid to help insure hardening all the way through. I remember someone suggesting here once about warming oil and water together, taking steel to critical then force the blade down to the water for a few seconds then pulling back up into the oil. Don't recall the results of any experiments though.
  18. I can't see the pictures. I just see something like: where the pictures should be.
  19. Both would be very nice, but like the others said: there's just something about the proportions of the stag that isn't quite right for that piece. I think the blackwood would allow you more in that regard and would be more elegant on that blade. Nice work! JV
  20. I've got a stack that I picked up from the local salvage yard. That stuff is HARD! I don't stick it into the forge until after I've worked on other stuff for a good hour with my forge running wide open (my forge BARELY reaches welding temps). The only thing I've ever finished out of it was a pig sticker done for a friend. I brought it to critical and quenched in veg oil. Hardened just fine.
  21. +1 to both of these guys. I've been using AcraGel (similar to acraglass, but thicker so it doesn't run) on firearms for years and on knives since I started doing it and I've never had a failure from it. I like it becuase A ) It's strong as hell and B ) It has VERY little shrinkage when it cures.
  22. You guys make quite the team Wade. Both the blades and the leather/hides are beautiful. Nice work to both of ya.
  23. I like that alot! That's got "work knife" written all over it.
  24. http://popsupply.bizhosting.com/handle_screws.html
  • Create New...