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Brian S. Pierce

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About Brian S. Pierce

  • Birthday 03/06/1983

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  • Location
    On the Klamath River, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Bushcraft, knives, shooting, reading, coffee.
  1. Dave, I'm not an expert, but I believe Kevin Cashen recommends a 5-10 minute soak(for simple carbon/low alloy steels) provided you can maintain a consistent temperature. My understanding is that grain growth is largely a function of temperature, not time. There was a post over at Bladeforums where they analyzed O-1 soaked at critical for 5 hours (IIRC) which showed no increase in grain size vs. O-1 soaked 10 minutes at critical. Of course, decarburization was an issue in an atmospheric forge.... Link to Original Thread Link to 5-Hour soak results (pictures missing unfortunately) A
  2. Is that a hamon, or post-HT grinding?
  3. Very exciting! I can't wait to see the challenge results.
  4. Very nice! Looks to me like a kiritsuke with a sheepsfoot tip. I love kitchen knives with long, flat edges...and it looks like you do too.
  5. Nice work! Looks like a Hudson Bay crossed with a Bowie to me. I daresay yours looks better than the original...much cleaner work while still expressing the same essence of character. Congrats on the article, and may you receive many further orders as a result (although hopefully not all for the same knife!).
  6. Do you have a shot of the spine? I'm curious about this reverse spine taper.
  7. Folks, I've been asked to forge three mushroom-hunting knives for some friends. All the commercial mushrooming knives I see have hawkbill blades, and I'm not sure I can make, let alone sharpen such a thing. Instead, I'm thinking of doing a 2-3" convex-ground sheepsfoot blade in 3/32" 15n20. Has anybody made their own mushroom-hunting knives, and how did you design them? Brian
  8. I used to live on the street above the flooded one in the second video. It's safely up the hill by the brick apartment building visible at the beginning. The warehouses to the left are part of a lumber yard, and my friends tell me the river carried off a ton of lumber, just swept it down into the Connecticut river. What's so impressive is the degree of flooding of the Whetstone brook. It's usually no more than 20 feet across and 2-3 feet deep where it runs through the town. I'm sure Dick is fine, if he's up on a hill. Might be a while before he can make it into town though, if his roads lo
  9. I lived in Brattleboro for many years, and they've had some some serious flooding in/around downtown. Sad that I'm missing out on all the fun. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpRErzxj0Uo
  10. Freakin' beautiful Scott. I've been trying to produce something like this for a while...you give me inspiration. It reminds me of Rick Marchand's "Swept Tribal Necker"...though I do prefer your black oak burl. Any specs as far as blade length, OAL, balance, etc?
  11. I don't know what is traditional, but I did a pair of kiridashi last week and took one straight down to the edge, the other I scandi ground. Honestly I prefer the scandi ground kiri because I find it more versatile as a utility knife. I'd stick with the chisel if this is going to be a woodworking tool, otherwise do what seems best to you. Edit: Did you seriously forge those out from a RR clip? I hope you have a power hammer, or are simply blessed with more patience than I.
  12. I have no personal experience with this, but based upon what I've read, D2 and other alloy steels benefit from low temperature thermal cycles to deal with retained austenite...but there is a difference between a cryo cycle at -300F and a sub-zero cycle at -100F. Dry ice in a bath of acetone or alcohol should bring the temp down to -100F which is cold enough to transform the retained austenite to martensite. This transformation takes place at the speed of sound and only requires that you reach the correct temperature. Soaking for hours at -100F won't provide any additional benefit. A cryo cycl
  13. @Owen: You're saying that in your experience, it's better to have an edge that chips on the brass rod test than one that flexes? This is helpful to me in determining what results I should look for. Now to throw the ball back at you, I have a few "professionally" heat-treated knives and none of them chip on the brass rod test. They also elastically deform under lateral stress, unlike my knives with comparable geometry and hardness. @Edgar: Certainly geometry and intended use in going to factor here. My doubts about sufficient hardness come from a post of Kevin Cashen's concerning hardness
  14. I too have a bunch of 3/32" 15n20 bandsaw steel! Mine's from a lumber mill in Vermont. I was able to get a transition line with 15n20 by edge quenching, but I never tried to produce a hamon. I think (maybe) I read that the nickel content inhibits the subtle activity you see in steels like W-2, but honestly I'm not qualified to say. Give it a try and let us know how it turns out.
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