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SIXFOOTER

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About SIXFOOTER

  • Birthday 01/25/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boca Raton, Fl
  1. Deciding to get serious about getting an anvil. I need one as big as I can get, at least 100# and I need it in Florida. That way I can come get it. Unless I can find a Stellar deal that includes shipping. Any Ideas?
  2. I just started Blacksmithing a year or 2 ago and the last 2 years have helped teach the Blacksmithing portion of the Metalworking merit badge at the scout camp up in Jupiter, we had about 14 kids the first time and about 20 last time, some as young as 11 or so. Most had never picked up a tool, but they made up fot it in enthusiasm. I would say go for it, you will need help as its hard to keep an eye on more that 3 or so by yourself. We had 5 forges going at once and a guy like me at each one to keep an eye on them. Was a good time.
  3. If you change your design a little bit and use a pinch bolt on the tool are, you get a quick change tool system with 1 are and several tools.
  4. no problems with alignment, I use a 1/2" shaft on my tools and cut a piece of 1/2" tube on the shaft that serves as a spacer. Its cut to the exact length to center the tool with the tracking wheel and the drive wheel. It makes changeout really simple and fast
  5. Wow, thats pretty cool. I have been building stained glass for years and when I need a Patina I get it from a bottle. Never thought about making my own.
  6. I built a KMG clone useing a combination of several designs. Mine pretty much looks liks a KMG, the biggest departure is I use a pinch bolt to attach the various tools to the tool arm. I drilled a 1/2" hole horizontal in the tool arm, cut a slot in the end into the 1/2" hole. Drilled and tapped a hole for 3/8x16 and use that to clamp the tools in the arm. What that does is allows for 1 tool arm and whatever tools I want. Also the pinch bolt allows for a very quick change for the tools, approx 1/8 turn on the bolt. I have an 8" wheel and a flat platten. A 10" might be better I think. The platten I have a 2" and a 3" wheel. These allow cutting the curves for finger grooves but a 1" might be a good tool to add to the list. The flat platten is an excellent tool. With a stop block on the tool rest it allows for very accurite grinding on the taper for both sides of the blade with very little farting around. I wsh I had the fancy drafting tools and the knowlege to use them that cwilliams does, nice stuff.
  7. Don, I beleive you do an excellent job moderating this forum, it is absolutely the most polite one that I frequent. This is a good thing.
  8. Yes, you and everyone you know is a redneck if.......
  9. That cart setup is not only functional and compact but is also very safe. Distance from the forge is not as distance from a direct heat sourse ie in front of the forge. With a cart setup like that there are at least 1 or 2 shelvs between the forge and the tank. The tanks are very tough although not bullet proof. The guy that roasted his truck was a moron running around with a loose tank rolling around in the back. As stated above, use an armored line or copper. HD has a gas hose that is flexible and pretty tough. Its for hooking up a gas water heater or stove. The 4 foot line is about $15 and its hi vis yellow. There are several hundred thousand gas grills out there with the tank right under the grill and every year a few go Thermal. I have seen several do it. Usually from a grease fire in the bottom, but sometimes just a bad design. Use the armored line and some common sence in the setup and it will be fine.
  10. No reason for it to be all that expensive. I have a 1.5hp dc motor, Pacemaster controller (will run 3hp motor) and the 3 step pulleys and got all of it on Ebay for just about $110
  11. Anyone want to go stick this 18" marble tile on the wall for me?
  12. OOPS, LOL, no it won't matter. I used hex bolts on the bottom of mine and am looking for a piece of really dense foam to put under it.
  13. What are the countersinks on the top side of the base plate for?
  14. The SSR is an electronic switch. It is different than a dry contact in a relay. ALL electronic devices eminate heat of some kind due to the fact that thet are not 100% effecient and use some power internally to do whatever it is that they do. That heat has to go somewhere or it will build up in the device and shorten the life of it. A dry contact in a relay or switch or whatever uses no power at all, so it produces no heat and needs no heat sink. The relay or switch is not 100% either but its inefeciencies are somewhere else. SSR'r are built with a flat back specifically for a heat sink. A simple C shaped piece of sheet metal about 3"x9" will do fine for most applications although bigger is better. Use a dab of heat transfer grease on the back of the SSR to ficilitate thermal transfer and hake sure there is some air circulation about the heat sink.
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