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MrBaz

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Everything posted by MrBaz

  1. Specs: 3/16" thick 1095 Differentially hardened in 190* oil Sandblasted finish The scandi grind is purely for looks. A secondary bevel actually puts the edge on it. Black Linen Micarta Handles w/ Red spacers 1/4" SS pins and NS lanyard hole Can't find my ruler, but hopefully the pictures will put it in scale. $90 OBO shipped CONUS. Here you can see a sort of flat spot on the primary grind where it got away from me a little bit while I was grinding. You can see the small 'ding' on the spine near the handle. Knife balances right about where my finger is at.
  2. Are you going to burnish the shinogi-ji?
  3. I think the second one would make a better chopper. It has a little more mass right where it counts. Grinding a dagger evenly? You'll get varying answers, but it isn't too hard. Just go slow and remove as little metal as possible. Don't get excited about it and move too fast. You'll end up making mistakes too fast as well.
  4. I would definitely wait a while before trying this one. Get some good experience first on simpler shapes. That thing pictured has some serious compound curves that are going to be real fun whether you are forging or stock removal. Oh, and sharpening is going to be a real pain as well. Interesting design though.
  5. It would probably be best to just go ahead and anneal the steel (easy to work with) and then harden after you are done. Just remember, sharpness is NOT a determining factor of steel hardness. You can make mild steel sharp, but that doesn't mean it can hold that edge for long. Run the file test on the edge. If the file 'skips' across the edge without cutting in, then the edge is hard. If it bites in, it isn't hardened enough. When you experience this you will know the difference. I would suggest doing the test on a piece of mild or annealed steel and then comparing it to a piece of steel you KNOW has been hardened 60RC or above. The first time I experience it, I was amazed at how big a difference there really was.
  6. I knew it was an air-hardening steel, but I'm just trying to get a feel for how everyone hardens their D2. I'm thinking of ordering a batch and wanted to see what the hardening process was like.
  7. How did you harden the D2?
  8. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    Awesome, thanks.
  9. Wow, good deal. I'm going to look into this. Thanks for posting this.
  10. Amazing work. I'm just curious where you got your sword sharpening from? Did you simply just watch videos and read up on it (triald and error approach), or were you taught?
  11. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    See, now you're making me do even more reading/research on natural stones. How am I ever going to get time to actually make some knives?
  12. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    From where do you purchase your natural stones? I'm going to stick with synthetic for now until I can gain enough revenue to have reason to pay for the natural stones.
  13. Where can I find 1084? For some reason I am having difficulty finding a source. I'm using 1095 for now, but I would like a little bit more forgiving steel when it comes to hardening (but yet not 5160/52100).
  14. Copper and nickel silver mokume?
  15. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    Exactly. Visiting differnet forums for different sharpening methods (one focused on kitchen cutlery, one on straight razors used for shaving, and another on general use knives) gave me tons of great knowledge. Basically, it boils down to this: They all pretty much do the same thing. No stone is exactly 'superior' to another. Stropping vs. using a very high grit finishing stone is a moot argument. Some of these guys are so into it that they strop using 1 micron or less diamond abrasive. Depending on what grit you are using and what finish you are seeking, you may want to use a diamond stone, a carbide stone, or an aluminum oxide stone. Some cut faster than others, but leave a less desirable finish. Some cut fast and leave a very nice finish, but they don't last as long. Some synthetic Japanese stones perform the same as their natural counterpart. I did find it interesting that there are vastly more people that use a DMT diamond plate to flatten their stones than people that use a specific flattening stone. Some used the DMTXXC, but I think the majority of them used a DMT8C, which is a 8"x3" 325 grit plate. I think I'll take a point from Wes at Carter Cutlery: It is more about skill/technique and less about equipment. I'll stick with just the standard aluminum oxide stones for now. I'll get a feel for them and venture from there.
  16. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    That place and badger & blade is where I have been doing a lot of reading. Very interesting material.
  17. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    I've been looking up some reviews on the other 'ceramic' stones. It seems that quite a few of them (even the Shapton stones) use a type of plastic-based resin/epoxy as a binder. This is why they don't need to be soaked in water before use.
  18. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    What would be the underlying reasons to buy a ceramic 1000 grit stone vs. a 1000 grit Aluminum Oxide stone? Same goes for other higher grit stones? Seems there isn't much difference in pricing.
  19. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    Alright. What about this arrangement: Aluminum Oxide stones: 800, 1200, 3000, 6000 DMT 325 as a very course stone as well as a flattening stone.
  20. MrBaz

    Pick 3 stones

    I will be setting the edge with these (and some other stones I have) as well as sharpening some high-end knives. Is a natural stone that much different from a synthetic stone?
  21. I was actually contemplating getting the DMT325 to use as a flattening stone as well as a very course sharpening stone. I had talked to another professional knife sharpener who does a lot of single-bevel knives. He uses a DMC325 to flatten all of his stones.
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