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Barrett X. Houston

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About Barrett X. Houston

  • Birthday 04/15/1992

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    Los Angeles California
  1. Kick@ss! Thanks for sharing, I'm adding that to my favorites .
  2. Crap I made a topic when I meant to write a reply. Sorry .
  3. Since steel was so expensive, most Seaxes would have been made of low carbon steel that were then case hardened, right? But the case hardening doesn't seem to harden much of the blade, and with rough use, I'd bet the hardened portion would have been used up rather quickly. So what would a Saxon do if his knife crapped out? Could the knives possible be re-case-hardened? Or did the owner just have to deal with it?
  4. While I love forging and wouldn't want to make a knife any other way, through research and critical thinking I've found many wholes in the"forging is more natural than stock removal" idea. Through browsing the internet, I've seen many bladesmiths that stand firm to the idea that forging will produce a more effective knife than one made through stock-removal. The whole idea is that by forging, the side-to-side steel grain is maintained while when you use stock-removal to make a blade the grain doesn't flow through the whole blade and is cut off at many places. However, these same people who say forging is superior use techniques that (I think) interupt the grain flow of the knife. For example: Hot Cutting- lets say I want to make a scandi style knife. If I were to use a hot cutter to make the point, isn't that interupting the side-to-side grain? Rough Grinding- A thing I see alot of people do is to forge their blade to ROUGHLY the final shape, then spend hours at the grinder to get the final profile. Isn't this in a way like stock removal?
  5. I'm in real need for some tongs, but I want to save my money and get as few pairs of tongs that I can. I usually work with flat bar and 1/2" round stock. Could I buy some half round tongs and use them for both?
  6. I'm really in need for some real tongs, I'm tired of having to use vice grips to hold my steel. If anybody has any old beat'em ups they're willing to sell, I'm up for it. Looking for flat stock tongs and round stock tongs (for 1/2" round stock.)
  7. The only thing leaf spring I've been able to get my hands on has come from small trucks and pickups, and the stuff seems pretty damn wide. The springs are at least 2 1/4 inches wide. Its a pain in the @ss forging tangs on the blanks. Are the leaf springs you guys work with this big?
  8. Generally speaking, what would be the better economically decision before the Bessemer process; 1. thin, high carbon blades or 2. thick, case hardened blades or 3. thick, pattern welded blades Sounds like a dumb question, but it's something I've been thinking about lately.
  9. I've just started working with leaf spring, and while I love the stuff, I'm terrified of stress cracks. I'm afraid that while I'm using the knife the damn thing with fall apart on me . Once I'm done hardening and tempering, is there anyway to test for stress cracks? I think I remember hearing somewhere is that a good way is just to wack the back of the blade on something.
  10. Through my struggles to keep the bevels of my knives even, I've tried many little tricks and shorcuts along the way; many of them admitedly stupid and a waste of time. But through my messing around I found a really cool trick. Since I had alot of trouble working on my off side, instead of switching from my good side to my off side, I just raised the angle alot on my good side. I'll try to give an example: so you're forge one bevel pass with the blade facing you, instead of switching it around and forging with the blade away from you, you put a much steeper angle with the blade facing you (sorry if That wasn't a good example.). If you do it right it results in a sharp bevel on the off side that you can even out as you go. Its hard to explain and it sounds kinda weird but it does work. Anybody else ever done this before?
  11. I'm having trouble getting my counterbends to work. When I counter bend my knife, the tip moves independently from the rest of the edge; when I'm finished forging in the bevels, the tip is very curved while the rest of the blade is straight. Would I just be better off straightening it as I go?
  12. SHHHHHHHHHHH! It was the Crypts *wink wink winkedy wink*
  13. I wasn't able to get a leaf spring from a 50's-60's car, but I was able to get one from a 90's car. I did a spark test and they seem fine, but I still haven't done a quench test. Should the quality still be good?
  14. I just got mine apart a few minutes ago. I just clamped it a vice, and sawed off the two clips and the bolt holding it together. It was alot easier then I thought it was going to be. Damn those springs are thick, damn near took a whole cutoff wheel to cut through one.
  15. Wow! B. Norris and Don Fogg left me advice? Sh*t, I consider you guys celebrities . Just to be sure, are you guys saying to micro bevel, then work on each side one at a time? I've also seen forging tutorials that tell you to hammer with the blade flat on the anvil. I know this would lead to one side being beveled and one being flat but... could you do it this way then even out the bevel on the last few heats?
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