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A Bodley

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  1. Has anyone tried to buy from this past link? I've tried twice and have the notice that PayPal has been cancelled? Andrew
  2. I use quick release connectors from "Bes" in the UK. Can't work out how to post the web page from my tablet. But look for part no. 8847 in lpg/oil fittings. Really easy to use when swapping burners from my one regulator. Andrew
  3. Paint the ends with either white glue or emulsion to slow the water loss while it dries. Which should reduce the amount of shakes. You can also work it green and leave a bit of extra material to correct any changes as it dries. I've turned some plum when green which end up slightly oval when dry. If your impatient look up how to microwave dry. I've never tried this but it looks like a quick way of working. Andrew
  4. Does listing the item as a gift affect insurance? I've heard issues in the UK having issues claiming insurance for lost knives from makers only being reimbursed with material costs by the post office. I regularly see posts on British blades on blades confiscated by customs as being illegal (assisted openers, gravity knives etc) though they are sold in the uk by larger shops. Andrew
  5. Are you planning on having the water feed onto the belt. Or have the bottom wheel sitting in a bath of coolant picking up water as it goes? I've used water grinding wheels which used a great of coolant that you used a pedal to do onto the bottom of the wheel which seemed to work well. I'd look at having the motor high to keep it away from water drips. Have you don't any research on industrial coolants for grinding? Keep an eye on your lungs as my asthma gets set off being near cold damp air especially when in airesol form. Andrew
  6. From memory it fits a scabbard belonging to Henry v. But I don't see any evidence that it's Henry v's. Sword looks real. Andrew
  7. For the best overall history of European armour look for "European armour" by Claude Blair. Anything by Alan Williams is great on metallurgy but a bit light on history of armour. It you have a look around armour archive you should get an idea of the different look of armour and how it varies in time and regionally. Andrew
  8. Going off at a tangent. Root wood? How was this harvested and processed? I've seen large trees that have blown down with wide girths but the roots were similar to the upper branches. The internal structure of roots is different from everything above ground but I don't know in what way? Has any one used root wood? How does it differ from real wood of the same species? Andrew
  9. Castree kilns sell ceramic fibre in 7.5 Meter rolls and some times smaller amounts. They also sell on evilbay. Make sure you get it rated for at least 1250°C ideally 1400°C. This should stop it melting from heat. But flux will eat this lining really fast! You will need rigidizer as well. I use rigidizer then cover in fire cement which helps. For the bottom of the forge you can use thin fire brick which does resist flux reasonably well. Or if you are making it from scratch then castable refractory may be something to think about. But be aware that solid materials take a while to get to temp. Andrew
  10. For powered respirators online auction sites are a cheap source especially if you aren't in a hurry. I've bought a couple over the years for £100 each. Looking on evilbay there are a couple of versflo's with face mask and charger for around £250 in the UK and Germany. If you see an old one check that spare parts are still available. Andrew
  11. How is your neck? As the trend is heavier as the motor is in the head piece. Have you looked on auction sites for second hand or new reduced? If you go buying new call your local welding shops and ask what there best price is. As in the UK a 3m adflo welding unit retail s for £1100. But my local welding supplier could do exactly the same unit for £680. Still lots of money but cheaper then the big shops. I personally use a 3m Jupiter which I bought off evilbay for £100. Andrew Andrew
  12. I can find a copy on amazon at $57 but can't find it on the UK site??? http://www.amazon.com/The-Traditional-Blacksmithing-H%C3%A5vard-Bargland/dp/1936013010 Andrew
  13. I am really unbelieving of dating an axe head to a 75 year age range. Carbon 14 dating is poor at defining recent age ranges. Multiple samples might be able to give a range of less then 150+ age range single sample would probably cover 300+ years. Dendrochronology based on the boat they were found with gives a time of deposition not manufacture. I doubt that there is a good dendrochronology database for cherry in the shafts but there would probably be not enough growth rings to date these anyways. I think oak needs at least 25 rings to be dateable. What is everyone's thoughts on of cherry as a axe shaft? Would it cope as an axe shaft? Or just be decorative? Stylistically these could be in at least a 250 year age range. I have looked through images from a visit earlier this tear to the Dublin museum and found another couple of board axes with a presumambly original shaft. I have no idea if these are real or for display. Though other axe heads are displayed without shafts. It might be how the axe and shaft survived but both shafts taper out into quite short shafts. How much was lost?? Andrew
  14. Hi seen that three Late Viking axes were found in Ireland last year. Dating from the late 11th C to early 12thC they still appear to have there shafts surviving. My google foo in low as I can only find images or very brief description of these. Not quite sure how they have dated these (dendrochronology?) as the forms look like earlier pieces. Here is a link to the Dublin museum scroll down to item 10 http://www.museum.ie/en/exhibition/gallery/clontarf-1014-photo-gallery.aspx Andrew
  15. Where in the UK are you? I have spoken to Yorkshire charcoal products several years ago about having known wood charcoal. The cost compared to CPL didn't make it feasible. From memory there best price was around £1.50 per kilo compared to CPL at £0.80 per kilo. Have you looked at making your own? Dacon has some good how too's and issues in producing good charcoal similar to Japanese smithing charcoal. Andrew http://www.yorkshirewoodlandproducts.com/charcoal.html
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