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A Bodley

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Posts posted by A Bodley

  1. I use quick release connectors from "Bes" in the UK. Can't work out how to post the web page from my tablet. But look for part no. 8847 in lpg/oil fittings. Really easy to use when swapping burners from my one regulator.

    Andrew

  2. Paint the ends with either white glue or emulsion to slow the water loss while it dries. Which should reduce the amount of shakes.

    You can also work it green and leave a bit of extra material to correct any changes as it dries. I've turned some plum when green which end up slightly oval when dry.

    If your impatient look up how to microwave dry. I've never tried this but it looks like a quick way of working.

    Andrew

  3. Does listing the item as a gift affect insurance? I've heard issues in the UK having issues claiming insurance for lost knives from makers only being reimbursed with material costs by the post office. I regularly see posts on British blades on blades confiscated by customs as being illegal (assisted openers, gravity knives etc) though they are sold in the uk by larger shops.

    Andrew

  4. Are you planning on having the water feed onto the belt. Or have the bottom wheel sitting in a bath of coolant picking up water as it goes?

    I've used water grinding wheels which used a great of coolant that you used a pedal to do onto the bottom of the wheel which seemed to work well.

    I'd look at having the motor high to keep it away from water drips.

    Have you don't any research on industrial coolants for grinding?

    Keep an eye on your lungs as my asthma gets set off being near cold damp air especially when in airesol form.

    Andrew

  5. For the best overall history of European armour look for "European armour" by Claude Blair. Anything by Alan Williams is great on metallurgy but a bit light on history of armour.

    It you have a look around armour archive you should get an idea of the different look of armour and how it varies in time and regionally.

    Andrew

  6. Going off at a tangent. Root wood? How was this harvested and processed? I've seen large trees that have blown down with wide girths but the roots were similar to the upper branches.

    The internal structure of roots is different from everything above ground but I don't know in what way?

    Has any one used root wood? How does it differ from real wood of the same species?

    Andrew

  7. Castree kilns sell ceramic fibre in 7.5 Meter rolls and some times smaller amounts. They also sell on evilbay.

    Make sure you get it rated for at least 1250°C ideally 1400°C. This should stop it melting from heat. But flux will eat this lining really fast! You will need rigidizer as well. I use rigidizer then cover in fire cement which helps. For the bottom of the forge you can use thin fire brick which does resist flux reasonably well. Or if you are making it from scratch then castable refractory may be something to think about. But be aware that solid materials take a while to get to temp.

     

    Andrew

  8. For powered respirators online auction sites are a cheap source especially if you aren't in a hurry. I've bought a couple over the years for £100 each. Looking on evilbay there are a couple of versflo's with face mask and charger for around £250 in the UK and Germany.

    If you see an old one check that spare parts are still available.

    Andrew

  9. How is your neck? As the trend is heavier as the motor is in the head piece. Have you looked on auction sites for second hand or new reduced? If you go buying new call your local welding shops and ask what there best price is. As in the UK a 3m adflo welding unit retail s for £1100. But my local welding supplier could do exactly the same unit for £680.

    Still lots of money but cheaper then the big shops.

    I personally use a 3m Jupiter which I bought off evilbay for £100.

    Andrew

     

    Andrew

  10. I am really unbelieving of dating an axe head to a 75 year age range. Carbon 14 dating is poor at defining recent age ranges. Multiple samples might be able to give a range of less then 150+ age range single sample would probably cover 300+ years. Dendrochronology based on the boat they were found with gives a time of deposition not manufacture. I doubt that there is a good dendrochronology database for cherry in the shafts but there would probably be not enough growth rings to date these anyways. I think oak needs at least 25 rings to be dateable.

    What is everyone's thoughts on of cherry as a axe shaft? Would it cope as an axe shaft? Or just be decorative?

    Stylistically these could be in at least a 250 year age range.

    I have looked through images from a visit earlier this tear to the Dublin museum and found another couple of board axes with a presumambly original shaft. I have no idea if these are real or for display.

    Though other axe heads are displayed without shafts.

    It might be how the axe and shaft survived but both shafts taper out into quite short shafts. How much was lost??

    Andrew

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  11. Hi seen that three Late Viking axes were found in Ireland last year. Dating from the late 11th C to early 12thC they still appear to have there shafts surviving. My google foo in low as I can only find images or very brief description of these. Not quite sure how they have dated these (dendrochronology?) as the forms look like earlier pieces.

    Here is a link to the Dublin museum scroll down to item 10

    http://www.museum.ie/en/exhibition/gallery/clontarf-1014-photo-gallery.aspx

    Andrew

  12. Where in the UK are you? I have spoken to Yorkshire charcoal products several years ago about having known wood charcoal. The cost compared to CPL didn't make it feasible. From memory there best price was around £1.50 per kilo compared to CPL at £0.80 per kilo. Have you looked at making your own? Dacon has some good how too's and issues in producing good charcoal similar to Japanese smithing charcoal.

    Andrew

    http://www.yorkshirewoodlandproducts.com/charcoal.html

  13. Depending on interest. here are some other collections that are worth seeing.

    A visit to Glasgow museums for there arms & armour collection is worth seeing. Kelvingrove also in Glasgow has some nice medieval art and some a&a.

    Royal armouries in Leeds is worth seeing would take at LEAST half a day if you like a&a. http://www.royalarmouries.org/what-we-do

    Mary rose museum has recently opened in Portsmouth http://www.maryrose.org/your-visit/

    IF you like artillery then a visit to the outskirts of Portsmouth in one of the late 19th century forts is Fort Nelson, part of the Royal Armouries.

    Cambridge has the Fitzwilliam collection with a reasonable a&a collection.

    Oxford has the Ashmolean museum not much a&a on display but great art etc there.

    Andrew

  14. How well do you understand hydraulic's and the power contained within them? If you know how these can kill you fine. If not it may be worth contacting Don Fogg through his web site to but a copy of Battson's "build your own hydraulic forging press". Huge amounts of info of how to make two designs of press's. Cost about £20 a while ago with postage etc to the UK. Its US centric on suppliers but the build and design info transfers to the UK.

    You may struggle to get a reasonable press using single phase. Three phase shouldn't be a problem.

    This might be a better press then the one you were looking at. But you would need to check the speed and pressure to see if it would work.

    If you havn't made much Damascus already then looking at a large flypress may be cheaper and safer.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FLY-PRESS-/151052998033?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item232b75d591

    As with ebay these can go cheap depending on location. Size 6 or larger are usually recommended.

    Andrew

  15. "thinking more of something that fits between the first crusade to end of the middle ages."

    Not sure of what nationality you are looking at. But Mail would suit this time frame and be suitable for your gambeson.

    Though more time consuming to make (butted or riveted) needs little in the way of tools.

    Andrew

  16. Ebay can be good. Here is a 3m jupiter similar to the versaflow at a LOW start price.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-Jupiter-Airfed-Respirator-Mask-Charger-Battery-Hose-Turbo-Unit-Strap-/180973313699?pt=UK_BOI_ProtectiveGear_RL&hash=item2a22d99ea3

     

    I use one of these and like them as you can buy filters and replacement batteries, £160+ (or buy whole units off ebay again). Do check that you can get parts for any unit you are looking at buying. The first cheap set I bought couldn't get anything. So resold to help buy the jupiter.

    Obviously I have no links to the auction just posting for others to see that some bargins are there if you have time to wait.

    Andrew

  17. If you are going into Denmark there are a few that are worth going to if you have the time, Copenhagen there is the National museum http://natmus.dk/en/?cHash=813aa549da4173f208a1dc3c9efd457e lots of swords and other items. try not to cry at there gold room as the really nice swords are above your head in REALLY low light levels as everyone knows how gold fades in sunlight! After that rant, Go on a Sunday morning and have there Brunch. About $20 per head for all you can eat food and pour your own vodka for bloody mary's.

    The Tollhuss musem is good for swords and 16th century armour and there have lots of firearms and cannon. There displays are a bit dated but worth seeing what they have.

    Most of the local museums had some viking metal work and are worth taking a punt on if you have time. But other locations worth seeing is Reibe. They have some viking and later swords and metal working tools on display. http://www.ribesvikinger.dk/Default.aspx

    If you are going north around Arhuss then the Mosegard museum is worth visiting. http://www.moesmus.dk/ They have a LOT of the items found at Illerup on display. The number and range of teh items found is staggering.

    If I can remember any others worth seeing I'll add them later.

    Andrew

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