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A Bodley

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Everything posted by A Bodley

  1. Double post as Ric beat me to posting the link. Andrew
  2. Yes. Any of the drop down menu that I click on sends me to my profile. I have tried to change my screen size bigger and smaller with no change. Not sure what else I can do? Andrew Just tried again, and seems I have scared into working. May be an issue that after getting into mesenger I clicked profile. While in profile it wouldn't let me go back to messenger? BAck in forums I can reaccess messenger?
  3. Hi I seem to be having a problem for a while. As I cant get the system to allow me to access my messenger section. When ever I click onto messenger it sends me to my profile. Occasionally it works but I can never seem to work out what was different that time. Any ideas of whats going wrong? Andrew
  4. Hi Had a quick look for borax on ebay SE. and had no luck as suppliers are from UK or US. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1kg-Borax-Sodium-Tetraborate-decahydrate-High-grade-/140437856777?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&hash=item20b2bfa209 A chemicla supply company should sort you out. As will ceramic supply places as borax is used as a glaze(?). Sodium teraborate, Sodium decaborate and sodium pentahydrate are all the same appart from the number of water molecules. Good luck with the move. Andrew
  5. I hope you have found the Mastermyr find. It has a good selection of well documented tools, some blacksmithing and wood working. Here is a link that has other images and reproductions http://netlabs.net/~osan/Mastermyr/ I dont have a copy of the report but seem to remember there was a hammer around 1.5kg. I have also been wracking my brain to see where i remember seeing a reasonanbly large stumpy hammer unfortunatley without luck. If I come up with any other info i will pass it on. Andrew
  6. Hi not sure if this is of any help. But on UK ebay there is a lobed pommel for sale which has reasonable pictures of all sides. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beautiful-Heavy-Complete-10th-C-Ancient-Viking-Bronze-Sword-Pommel-2-4-OZ-/251012082414?pt=UK_Antiquities&hash=item3a717c6aee Andrew
  7. A Bodley


    When in Florence the Stibbert is a bit out of town and is only viewable with a guided tour. There is not enough time to see everything but its worth going if you have time. Also there is the Bagello in the centre of town very near the Ufficci. It has a good decorative arms and armour section on the top floor. Here is a link for museums in Florence. http://www.museumsinflorence.com/musei/stibbert_museum.html Have a look at what else is in town that might be of interest. In Venice the Dogges Palace has a good armoury which is worth seeing as is the whole palace. There is also an oriental colle
  8. From Ian Pierces book, Found at Lough Derg (New Curraghmore), County Tipperary, Ireland. Overall length, 78.5 cm Blade length 64.5 cm (found in five pieces and fitted together) Lenght of cross 11.3 cm Lenght of grip 8.4 cm Had a quick look on the national museum of Dublin with out success. Andrew
  9. Another view on Howards comments. If you make your own you will buy extra material that may be used in the future, if/when you make another forge. The skills and experience will give you greater confidence in whats going on. Buy one and its there going and you will work with what you have. There will always be a learning curve in making forges. For me buying the materials cost about £100 (us$200) for the material to make at least three forges (venturi and blown). I am looking to remake at least one forge to fit the material I am working.I dont regret spending the money but it took ages t
  10. Just heard about this new site of online publications of the Viking society for northern research. Not found any info on swords but there seems to be lots of discussion of sagas and language. Enjoy. http://www.vsnrweb-publications.org.uk/ Oh if anything weapon or armour related turns up can you post a link. Andrew
  11. Not sure this is the answer you are after, but have you seen this book on British Iron Age Swords and Scabbards from the British museum? http://www.britishmuseumshoponline.org/invt/cmc23233/ I briefly looked at this years ago but havn't been able to afford it yet. Hope this is of some use. Andrew
  12. I don't know a lot about uroshi lacquer. But fopr those in Europe there are uroshi supplies at what was Dick tools. Here is a link to some uroshi http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/716306/Ki-Urushi-for-Suri-Urushi.htm Enjoy. Andrew
  13. Hi Richard, I know understand what you are seeing. If you look on the picture of the bellows with match sticks. This shows the two leather hinges. The round rod you are seeing, on the other image, is the head of a nail. Above the hinge was an angled piece of wood which you can see. Not totally sure of what it does other then filling the void and stopping the top board being over extended. Though the leather sides would also restrict this. I think I saw ages ago some plans on IFI of a set of bellows similar to these. My search fu has failed in finding anything. Andrew
  14. Hi Richard, The top and bottom board have leather hinges nailed to the boards. The top board has a wooden strip to between the board and nozzel. You should be able to see the make up of the bellows. There are the top board, rib, centre board, rib and bottom board. The ribs have small straps running on the inside to the boards to keep them central. There were at least two layers of leather covering the hinged sections to make this area air tight. If you need any more information I will try and help Andrew
  15. A while ago Owen asked for some help in repairing some bellows he had. Here is a brief WIP of the rebuild. The bellows were made by Allday’s and Onions in March 1892. Tried plan A to get it back into life, with some Newcatle brown, shots of jim beam and an emergency can of woodpecker cider. Proof its really old? These appeared to be in reasonable condition but on closer inspection the leather was very dry and suffering from a bit of red rot. The wooden boards were also having issues with wood worm. Here are a few images of the dismantle of the bellows. I was attempting to ke
  16. I have seen some pieces that have minor damage (chips or big scratchs) on late medieval armour. There is very little earlier armour and most of those with any damage have been repaired (church armours). Armour was a protective tool. If you have a big accident in your car/crash helmet and survive, how long do you keep them or use them. As today there was a recycling of material. 15th Century brigandines (small multi-plate armour riveted to fabric) used old armour, 16th Century Jack of plates (small multi-plate armour sewn between fabric) used old brigandines, 17th Century Harquebusiers armour u
  17. Nice build. I like the wheels on the mill as well. Does it move much when being used? What speed are you runnign teh top rollers at? I have been slowly getting pieces together for one of these and have had different recommendations on speeds. McDonald recomends 20 rpm while I have been advised to look around 30 rpm. Any thoughts? Faster speed mould reduce time hot metal is in contact with rollers. But what is too fast? Andrew
  18. Hi all, After the discussion of Pure iron at Owens hammer in I thought others would like to see where it is available in the UK. http://www.pureiron.co.uk/index.htm There is also the real wrought iron company http://www.realwroughtiron.com/home-12.html Andrew
  19. Hi thought you might be interested in these papers from the recent symposium. Only briefly looked at these but the typology of pommels looks very interesting. Enjoy http://finds.org.uk/staffshoardsymposium Andrew
  20. Depends on how fast you need the bone. I usually use beef shin bone. Strip off all the waste meat and bones skin. Cut off knuckles and remove marrow. Wash in dilute detergent/cleaner. I concentrate on removing the marrow as the oils from this stains the bone (unless you want this affect. When you have scraped the whole clean leave for an hour or two in dilute bleach. Leave to dry and its now ready for use. Lazy way (I havn't done this) would be remove knuckle ends and leave for insects to deflesh etc. After several months it should be ready. If time is an issue I would buy pieces of prepare
  21. Well they arn't cheap but this one is cheaper but not as easy to move around. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SPECTRO-SPECTROTEST-JR-METAL-ANLAYSER-XRF-ANALYSIS-/370486771848?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item5642bb8088 Essential piece of kit for any budding mad scientist. Though, from the xrf read outs and discussions with metallurgists, understanding what the reading exactly mean is a whole new ball game. Andrew
  22. Here is the image of one of the seax's in York that has been cleaned and etched. I think I can see similarities but could be wrong. Still looking to see if I can find an xray. Think I dont actually have a copy though. Andrew
  23. From what I understand talking about xrays. The image shows the xrays that have made it to the image plate. The different colours are caused by the amount of xray absorbed.light areas have hi density, dark low density. So you see everything at one time. I dont know if varing carbon content changes density or if phosphor or silica make bigger difference. One other issue of archaeological items is that corroded areas have low density (white areas on xray). This pattern seems a bit similar to a sax from York. I will try and find image and hopefully an xray. Andrew
  24. 92??? I hadn't even started packing it to then. The Leeds museum opened in 1996. Are you like me and running years in a binary decimal system?? (only count every other ten years, makes me feel in my twenties) Andrew
  25. well I can't disagress with Owen. Looks a bit shitty. Like the elongation of the teeth. Andrew
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