Jump to content

A Bodley

Members
  • Content Count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by A Bodley

  1. As the link above isn't working. Is this the same link?? http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/publications/archaeometallurgy/cfaarchaeometallurgy2.pdf
  2. A Bodley

    York museum

    Just tried to up load. Sat 5 pm uk time. Seems its running a viking dialup form of server. link and wait 5 min plus. loads slowly! Good luck. make a brew while waiting or come to think about it, how about a sword should be forged by the time everything loads Andrew
  3. A Bodley

    York museum

    York Museum trust has put a few of there out of print reports on PDF's on tinternet hope this may be of help to those interested in old leathery irony bits. http://www.yorkarchaeology.co.uk/resources/pubs_archive.htm Enjoy. Andrew
  4. You could be funky and make a spear. Andrew
  5. One thought to see if your experiment does make a difference would be to polish and etch a small section after quench but before temper. This should show if any change in pattern actually occured. Good luck and looking forward to results. Andrew
  6. That motor is cheaper then I expected. I assumed a motor that size would be over £100 unless a old/one off. My thoughts were an inverter would be about half the price of a motor and no issues of removing the motor and finding one that will fit the shaft and be able to withstand the forces when you stall the mill. Good luck with the refitt. Andrew
  7. You might find a phase converter useful and less time consuming. I f you have room in the shed. Here is one that might be big enough http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2HP-TRANSWAVE-STATIC-415V-3-PHASE-CONVERTER-LATHE-MILL-/160476290364?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item255d21dd3c or 240volt version http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4KW-5-5HP-240V-3-PHASE-MOTOR-INVERTER-CONVERTER-/160477192927?pt=UK_BOI_Industrial_Automation_Control_ET&hash=item255d2fa2df Andrew
  8. Here are my vertical and horizontal forges from a while ago with a Eric Thing sheet metal forge. They sit ontop of a heat treat forge. Andrew
  9. I found this site a while ago. Might be able to find some ideas if you want more http://runicdictionary.nottingham.ac.uk/index.php (h)nakki (OWN: hnakki), m. n. 'back of the head, nape of the neck'. sāl(a)/sēl(a)/siāl(a) (OWN: sála), f. n. 'soul'. sārriða (OWN: sárriða), f. n. 'wound-fever (?)'. siarða (OWN: sjarða(?)), v. 'to bugger'. signa (OWN: signa), v. 'to bless, sign with the cross, to dedicate to a god'. siða (OWN: siða), v. 'to put, keep in good condition'. slø̄gʀ (OWN: slœgr), adj. 'skilful'. stȳrimaðr (OWN: stýrimaðr), m. n. 'steersman, skipper, captain'.
  10. Why are Dendrites good? Where you trying to make wootz? What am I missing?? Andrew
  11. Hi Petr, Have been looking for an article in Archaelogia (possibly) that discuss's ring hilts. Seen it along side other articles I have read. Unfortunately I have had no luck so far. All my online search's cant seem to find Archaelogia articles. But found this which shows that there may some information around. A catalogue of Anglo-Saxon and other antiquities discovered at Faversham, in Kent http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=8vdUrp2JcmAC&printsec=frontcover&dq=A+catalogue+of+Anglo-Saxon+and+other+antiquities+discovered+at+Faversham,+in+Kent&source=bl&ots=RvlzcQMy7d&s
  12. Buy what you NEED not what you want. You have an anvil but no Drill. You can work around your anvil till you can afford the luxury of a new one. Buying what you want means filling you shed/workshop with lots of duplicates of nice tools that dont really get used. (Talking from experience) Andrew
  13. If you aren't sure why not cut it in two 5" blocks then cut one with teh rings one with the lines? My tupence Andrew
  14. I would hope that at $140 it shouldn't need much doing to it. Have you looked on Iforge for there threads on repairs to vices. Untill its in your hands then you can start using it and work out what NEEDs fixing. Then get to it. Check the pivot point of the arms as this is prone to wear/slack. Andrew
  15. Have you been drinking pints of creme de menth today? Or are you thinking of going feral? Andrew
  16. Ask your self what parts of knife making do you like? Designing, forging, grinding polishing handling. What parts do you self critise the most? Do you put off challenging sections or always look for more technical solutions. I personally need deadlines to complete anything. I find delays are due issues in the design or making process I dont really like. Andrew
  17. So when the iron/steel is over heated the fe burns off as well as the carbon. But what causes the holes? Is it micro sections turning liquid or the burning iron follows grain boundries? Am I thinking on too small a scale? Andrew
  18. Right I have burn't of iron/steel in a coal forge and ruined work like everyone. But what happens when it burns? Decarburising of steel makes sense. But mild steel at 0.03% carbon can be a huge sparkler. But is it any bigger then 1% C.? Why can't I keep using the burnt metal as its only lower in carbon content? Isn't it? I have had most problems burning metal in coal forges and can usually avoid it unless distracted or talking to someone. But can you burn steel in a gas forge? What does it look like? Yours in confusion Andrew
  19. I really like the shape of the knife and scabbard. But what holds the belt loop onto the scabbard. From the images it looks as though it can slide off? Andrew
  20. Here is a forge back found in Denmark (I think, on display at Moesegarg) It is well known to archaelogists as it has the face of craved onto it. I believe its made from soap stone and has never been used due to the stone not changing its structure from heat. I was shown some images of other forge backs from a swedish archeologist last year which showed the face (curved side) was on the fire side. He also had images of a forge with the hearth insittue at ground level. Which implies viking smiths forging squating on the floor like in Africa/Asia. Allows the use of feet to help hold tools and w
  21. Just come across this book on ebay. A bit rich for my wallet but thought it might be of interest to others here. The image of a large cone furnace(?) near the end has me intrigued. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/All-Japan-Blacksmith-Technic-Workshop-Tools-Pics-Book_W0QQitemZ390108924368QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5ad44dc9d0 itme no. 390108924368 in japan Andrew
  22. I think all you need to do is register. From memory a very quick and easy process tacking a minuet or two and your away. Andrew
  23. Hi GBC, Couldn't get the link to work. I think problem is on the BL site. But a search for pattern welding gave the same result Andrew
  24. Though this has nothing to do with Wootz. Here are some images of the crucible molds and some old cruisables at Abbey dale in Sheffield. This site was making cruicible steel untill the teh 1940's. The molds are two part and the outer has the handles on the side with a hole i nthe bottom. The long thinner pieces on the left is placed inside to form the crucible and the hole is pluged later. Old and a couple of newer crucibles at abbey dale. Andrew
  25. Hi All, Here is a link to the British Library's online theses. Lots still need to be digitised but there ARE some very good theses here. There are a few about swords and medieval history. I havn't even touched the Metallurgy ones as I had trouble understanding the titles. http://ethos.bl.uk/Home.do Andrew
×
×
  • Create New...