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Philip West

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Everything posted by Philip West

  1. 60Si2MnA is one in case you haven't seen the specs http://www.316l-stianless.com/Spring-steel/A11603-60Si2MnA.html
  2. It does especially on thin stuff. we weld chisel sockets on a mandrel that's set in the anvil. Like in this woodwrights shop/ peter ross video. welding the socket starts about the 8 minute mark but this is a one piece socket and blade not two piece like yours. http://www.pbs.org/video/2365386383/
  3. Great video, Im just curious do you have a preference using your mandrel like that inside the socket over using a mandrel mounted in your hardy?
  4. Alan, I also wanted to add something. We all know what welding 5160 to itself is like with all that chromium. This steel only has a trace amount and it welds to itself just fine. We have made a bunch of bag axes out of it in the traditional bow tie method. just bend a small piece of the steel over itself for the bit instead of adding one and weld it up..makes a tough as nails axe..In fact the first time we ever made a axe with one is when I found out how much this steel hates water I felt the "PING" all the way to my teeth, cracked half the blade off right at the level it went into the water..
  5. Welcome, we have access to a lot of RR steel through a friend who owns a scrap yard. A few family members who work for the RR and they let me know what publications to look in to find stuff like this. That is some very tough steel
  6. That stuff is not regular 1060 it has a decent amount of alloy and hates water. It's actually 60Si2MnA http://www.316l-stianless.com/Spring-steel/A11603-60Si2MnA.html
  7. We use cold blue a lot with low layer patterns like in Damascus axe's..Also helps bring out cable pattern real well.
  8. Seems like everyone is out of stock of almost everything right now..
  9. good coal is a wonder to forge with..Im lucky to have easy access to it where I live but your right. Bad coal will make you want to throw your forge away
  10. Just a couple of pieces. A adze forged from 1060 and a, well for lack of a better term a "Danish" hawk..Wrap and weld hawk with some Danish flair. Mild body and W1 cutting bit
  11. Ok Im no dummy when it comes to forums but neither my profile or settings sections gives me a place to change my user name to my real name as asked. can someone help me out? thanks
  12. Oil would be a no go, just too much and too large a piece of steel(250#). It would take a 50 gal drum to prevent auto tempering Im afraid. Not to mention a flash fire the size of a car hood. I know what the books say about oil, but theres just no way..I wish it was 4140 to be honest then I would not be worried because we quench large sections of 4140 in water all the time. It only has to be a couple of inches of the face hardened. I may pass on it but I kinda het to because the price is so good. Anything over say 2 1/2" thick(4140,4150 etc) that we have ever tried to harden in oil always
  13. Thinking of doing a home quench of a very large section of 4340.Appx 10"x 6"x 13" the ability to heat it and lift it is not a issue. Even have a creek close by for a large volume of moving water.. Ive quenched a lot of 4140 and 4150 in water when doing large sections(but not this large) with never a problem. Ive never done 4340 though..I was thinking since its such a large section that a moving water quench would be the way to go. What say you?
  14. here it is its 60Si2MnA http://www.316l-stianless.com/Spring-steel/A11603-60Si2MnA.html
  15. Ive got the specs for those things here somewhere. They are real high in Mn about .90 and have 1.60% of Si..They don't like being water quenched.. I remember making a colonial style bag axe from one a long time ago and left the edge thick after 3x normalization cycles and it cracked slightly at the edge..i was shocked..Went to parks 50 after that
  16. There are several hammer makers out there now that make big hammers. It seems Brian really kicked off the hammer making craze about 5-6 years ago when he started making and teaching how to make his style of rounding hammers.Which really started with habermann I think.. He is one of the best around at moving material with limited effort but often forges with 4# hammers a lot. I know a 4# seems like its big but if you use it the right way its not bad to swing at all. Its all about holding the hammer right, not having a death grip and not trying to drive it through the anvil.Tucking your hammer a
  17. An Inshave forged from CruForgeV..Great steel for woodworking tools Short handled bowl Adze.. A krenov style plane. Body is white oak, sole is desert ironwood. iron is laminated mild and O1..
  18. Ive always found this to be true for us..We use a lot of wrought for probably the same reason as you. Period correct hawks and axes...Wrought sticks to itself with a vengeance for me..It just welds like butter for us, With the right heat..Never had a hawk or axe head made of wrought that didn't weld perfectly the first time with never a hint of seam. Now some recycled A36 structural stuff? Its caused pure grief before. . Aiden, that is some nice work and a nice save..
  19. Hi, great work and I like your Vid...Can I ask, what hammer is that? looks kinda like a mz75?
  20. We have both a hammer and a press. if I had to take just one it would be the hammer but the press is realy dang handy to have too..Im starting to really like it a lot..As far as the other forging does nothing for the chemistry of a blade.That and a piece of steel donst know what kind of hammers hitting it, hand or power.. The first thermal cycle after forging cancels all that out anyway.. that said I love to forge and forging allows you much great artistic freedom but its not going to make your blade stronger..
  21. Heres a little bag ax, weighs 8 ounces. Forged from a railroad tie clip.. Carving axe ready for the edge and heat treat..forged from 1060.. A reproduction flint striker from the Kangsala,Finland find..forgd from W1
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