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igrec

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About igrec

  • Birthday 06/06/1973

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  • Website URL
    http://www.atelierdeyann.fr

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    toulouse, france

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  1. This approach is indeed very interesting...
  2. igrec

    Inazuma Tanto

    yes, still non traditionnal, but "inazuma tanto" called. Inazuma means "flash" and is an ataraki observed in folded steel blades. You should at least try to add a quench line, not speaking about a hamon. You makes decent blades, well machined, but very far from beeing the real thing. Why call them so? I do not like the quickly done/plastic look of your sheaths, though.
  3. Bo hi are carved -always- after the hardening process, maybe you have been punished by the kamis for that mistake ? A quick etch will probably reveal you were too hot. Working by hand make you way more focused when you are heating your blade for quenching. Spend more time, you'll be rewarded, I can tell. Fear of loosing working time may not enter the equation, as the goal is not really the result
  4. Thanks for your interesting replies. I'll post a picture of the axle in initial state. I have actually already made test blades, and I am finishing the last one's polish, it is made by folding the most carburated part of the bar, using the traditional clay and staw ashes method. I'll make a new topic when finished, but this is a preview of this steel in it's actual state on the blade :
  5. Hi Gentlemen I found two almost buried cart axles on my property wich is an old farm, located in south west of France, in an historical place for iron smelting. The pictures below depict the two faces of a slice of one of them, polished and etched with nitric acid. It is hard to believe, but it really looks like a bloom compacted and drawn to form the axle. The size of the slice is 46 X 50 mm. Each axle weight between 40 and 50 kg! What do you think about my lucky found ?the other picture shows the steel part after quenching/breaking to separate iron and steel and a sample of the resulting folded steel. High res 3000 pixels : http://www.atelierdeyann.fr/face1.jpg http://www.atelierdeyann.fr/face2.jpg
  6. igrec

    Hira Zukuri Katana

    Something to read that will explain all : http://www.bugei.com/niku.html
  7. This is a nice sunobe, but the thickness should taper toward the kissaki, even at this stabe, then you will be able to forge the bevels in. Do not forget that the final width = sunobe width + sunobe thickness. The nakago should be aligned to the edge, not to the back at this stage, it will take its definitive shape when forging the bevels.
  8. Very interesting, Jesus. Good to see that this craft is still full of dicovey after so many time practising. From my point of view, the cracking risk is part of the game, making yaki ire a rich human adventure... For a production/commission work, I understand your concern though. Can't wait to admire the result anyway
  9. igrec

    hishigami

    Thanks for the idea, but why not adding some pictures of the process, even on a test tsuka, so we can figure out how to do it. I am very interested in trying this.
  10. igrec

    Usuba

    Just after the quench you have 30 seconds during which the steel will not snap when you straighten it, then after tempering, still hot you can adjust the remaining curvature. Out of the quench, the blade is curved as a banana, after tempering to the right hardness, much of the curvature is gone, the remaining is easy to adjust if you are not too much impatient. When you grind the bevel, the blade will curve a bit toward it, but in a small amount easy to adjust. Sean, what do you mean by kataba grind? a kataba is a saw whizout back for crosscuts. Maybe you saw pictures of the process for honyaki blades, which are top notches kitchen knives, monosteel with selective hardening, very hard to make. The awase blades receive a thin film of clay before the quench over the entire blade.
  11. igrec

    Usuba

    Hello everybody, Traditional Usuba made by awase style (ni mai), iron and white paper steel. 8 inches of cutting edge and 13 inches overall lenght. Natural stone polish and burnishing for rust prevention. Those blades are very chalenging to make, since they are really thin (2 mm) at the spine, and wide (5 cm or 2 inches) and I let you imagine how the blade warp during the quench. I would call that a lateral sori ! I broke some before I figured out how to straighten that warp. I am very glad to share the result here.
  12. Thanks a lot. I am a great fan of your work, the iron brush is full of priceless informations, and those past weeks, I spent a lot of time on your picasa gallery. This video is the cherry on top...
  13. Ask Sigmund Freud, he sure have an answer you won't like...
  14. Nice blade, I like the pattern of the wrap on the pommel, but I agree with tgdula, maybe a thin cord underneath to get some contrast?
  15. This piece of art will live far longer than anyone of us. Beautiful from pommel to tip. It leave me speechless.
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