Jump to content

Michael Pikula

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Michael Pikula

  1. Problem is the saw is/was set up to run 440v 3-phase. So I can theoretically run a 220v 1-phase to 220v 3-phase VFD, but then I need to get a transformer to switch 220v 3-phase to 440v 3-phase. However the motor can be switched over to run on 220v 3-phase, which I did, but I still have to figure out the rest of the wiring, or redo it so that I don't have to have tons of electrical conversations that aren't needed. The one point I am stuck at right now is a plate in the back that I think needs the wires rearranged... I'm attaching a picture. If I didn't care about the blade welder I would
  2. I'm in. Looking forward to it and starting to save up my pennies!
  3. I have no clue!!! When it comes to electricity I might as well be a caveman I checked the motor which seems to be 1/2hp, and can be wired for 220 or 440, tried hooking up a 1/2hp VFD that I have and the machine doesn't start up so I don't know if I should try getting the motor rewired for 220 or what. I think running a phase converter to get 220 3 phase, then a transformer to switch 220 to 440 would be a bit excessive if there is another way... I really need to find someone who knows and understands electricity.
  4. And there was much celebration! Finally got the bandsaw on the ground and in position. Now I just have to pick up a VFD and new blade and press the power button.
  5. Nicely done, in regards to the pictures and the knife! Love the reflection off the surface in the first shot.
  6. I was able to find and purchase a 16" DoAll which I will be picking up tomorrow morning. Got a good price on it, now I just have to pick up a phase converter and test it out before I consider it a win! Has a blade welder on it as well so that might make blades slightly less expensive. I'll post some picks when I have it in the shop
  7. I have been tweaking the glave a bit and thought I would comment, and post pictures once I have more changes done. I ended up dropping the width of the blade to about 3.5" as opposed to the 4" it was at. The tip will get a bit of a point, but not much. I don't think that the design of this piece really calls for it to be used for thrusting, so just enough to be functional in a bind. I have really been going back and forth about the false edge on the spine.... And I just don't know. One of the changes that I made from the "original" artwork was give it curves and lines that indicate motion
  8. Thank you for the wonderful feed back Ken and Peter! I have 66 out of 100 of these little knives that are still looking for a home. There is still a chance to pick one, or two up, because let's face it, there is no such thing as too much seax!
  9. Thanks for all the info! I guess my only other question at this point is what size would be considered a work horse? Ideally bigger would be better, but with funds being tight I'd be happy with a transitional. Hi Sam! Would be great to meet up again but driving the truck to MD and back would easily match the cost of the saw, so no dice
  10. Hi folks! Have you ever wanted to do multi bar composite pattern welding but don't know where or how to start? Do you learn better by seeing and doing then by reading? Good thing I am here to help! I would like to offer my services and shop to show you how I go about the process, and then help you do the same. The goal of this class will be to have each student walk away with a viking sword blank, ready for forging to shape, composed of two bars twisted in opposite directions (chevron pattern) welded to a single steel edge. We will go over tools used, setup, philosophy, and tricks such as how
  11. Nice work! Hope you had a great weekend that included a sale
  12. Lately I have been looking at Vertical bandsaws and trying to justify the cost of investing in one verses keeping on bogging out my tiny harbor freight toy. In looking at the cost, I am trying to figure out what are the advantages of larger bandsaws over smaller ones? If all other factors are consistent, will a 6' blade last half the amount of time that a 12' blade would last? Are there advantages in using a 3/4" blade verses a 1/4" blade if I'm only making straight cuts and have my guides properly set? I know that larger bandsaws have more mass, making them more stable, some have air t
  13. Very nice! I like it a lot
  14. So essentially we should take over the UN..... Now there is an idea! 2013, the year swordsmiths took charge of the UN and peace and prosperity was soon to follow 2014, the year of wall hanger and sword like object buy back, efforts continue to push forward to increase the quality of swords owned around the globe. 2015, America decides to join efforts and Africa adds a completely different aesthetic. 2016, A leader arises and vows to not cut his hair until all the world is united under one sword and a shroud of peace. 2017, For the first time the world is at peace, there are not crimes,
  15. Oooooo, false edge.... to a sharper point...... hmmmmm.... This may look quite good and take some mass off. I just might do that!
  16. First I did my rough grind on the belt sander, and then I flipped the blade 90 degrees so the flat of the blade was against the flat of the wheel, and I touched up my lines. Afterwards I mounted a 4" disc on an air tool, similar to what are used at body shops, and I over cut my abrasive up over the edge of the disc so that as I worked on the flat of the blade, the edge of the t-spine got clean and pretty as well. There are left over swirls at the base/transition, but like I mentioned, this is just a full sized prototype to get a feel for the piece. I may yet take it back to the grinder and wor
  17. 2013 is going to be a year of change for me and my work, and one of the changes is going to be to establish a production line. The idea is simply complex, use the best materials, the best processes, offer the most interesting and unique designs, at the most affordable price. The money from this endeavor, Pikula Production Concepts, will act as bread and butter, freeing me up to pursue advancing my handcrafted work to the next level. And so I present: The Maciejowski Glave! This monster features a nice thick T spine, a 34.4" blade that is 3.9" wide at the base. The socket is nearly 9" long
  18. But there ARE tiny elves dancing a jig inside my power hammer!!! At least last time I checked I chose to not use flux since I am trying to be more efficient, cleaner, faster, safer. Plus it is something that I haven't done before so naturally my first thought is to try it on a 15lb. billet!
  19. I decided to finish off 2012 by forge welding a ridiculously big billet, without flux, and then start drawing it out. I have been working on trying to get more videos up and learn some editing so feel free to kick back and check it out!
  20. Just curious what position you fine folks enjoy to have a "Little Seax" in? :lol:
  21. Good job Dave! I wouldn't worry about the lines of the core not following the fuller exactly, it is handmade after all. On my viking blades I usually grind my fullers on a wheel no smaller the 6inches by the way
  22. I knew I was missing something, thanks Craig! I like the concept of everyday use as well Troy, something to work into the wording.
  23. Are you a historical sword enthusiast and looking for a blade that you can carry during your next outdoor adventure, camping trip, or keep by your fire pit? A custom viking sword might not be suited, but one of my new Production Concepts just might fit the bill! These blades will be available from mid January or so, customers choice of a suitable stainless or tool steel, customers choices of grip material, optional gun-kote finish, and a target price point of around $700 (price to be determined by final production costs and cost of materials selected) Two more to be added in the following week
  • Create New...