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Posts posted by Mike Barton
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Anthony try looking at the ABANA website and finding local blacksmith chapters in your area. Then check the local blacksmith chapters' websites for sale sections and you might find some pricing on hammers.
I have attached the 50 foundation plan pdf from the Little Giant website.
Hope this helps out some and good luck on the hammer acquisition.
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I just received one of these wrenches; it's well made and works very well.
Bruce thank you for offering them here.
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its odd though .. strange things have been happening since this head turned up.
you know .. the creepy sounds .. the things that go 'tink' in the night ..
and then i woke up this morning and someone has written "LEZAN" on my mirror...
le zan?
is that in france somewhere?
i just dont get it.
Dee,
Congratulations.
You need to write the letters for LEZAN backwards on something and hold it up to the mirror..
Then you'll see that heavy industrial equipment must be in your future.
Mike
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I'm in Florida on a business trip. I can't believe how hot it gets in the lower 48.
Hey Dave welcome to my world; 80 degrees and 94% humidity when I left for work this morning.
Where are you at in the Sunshine State? If you are going to be here for longer than just your business trip give me a shout.
It is going to be a busy thunderstorm run this week so remember you don't need to hear thunder before you head inside.
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Ray,
If your forged blades didn't always look so superb, I'd say what the heck you should do stock removal.
Enjoy your time off from forging, and get back into it when you're good and ready.
Do we get to see your take on a Scandi sheath in the future?
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Glad your home safe and sound Dee. Hopefully your trip home was uneventful in comparison to your journey to the States.
Those beautiful knives you presented managed to show your abilities quite well.
Looking forward to seeing what you come up with now you're at the next level.
Mike
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Brent,
I have been patiently waiting for your version of a carbide faced file guide since getting one of your regular ones a while ago. I am still only using it with my Simonds hand files and it is as flat and true as the first time I used it. Please put me down for a cabide faced guide when, not if, you get it figured out.
I've got a lot of faith in you
Thanks,
Mike
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Simonds files will out last Nicholson by 10:1. But they only cost 2-3 times more. The Multi-Kut have a tooth pattern that hogs very aggressively, doesn't clog on steel and leaves about a 220 finish.
+1 on these Simonds files. I watched flea bay and got a great deal on a quantity...I'm still on the first one after over a year
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Dee,
You knocked my eye's out with this one
Between this and Don's Seax I might never get my eyesight back right.
I'm really glad to see you back in full swing.
Mike
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Dee's Thread is a sticky at the top of this subforum click here for a shortcut Furnace Building
Mike
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Oh, yeah!
The war really ruined the economy of the upland south, to such an extent the effects were still noticeable into the 1940s or later depending on where one was.
This is one of the main reasons some of us were well into adulthood before we realized "damnyankee" was actually two words...
Well I've been in my adulthood for a few decades and still call some of them a "damnyankee"
Now you tell me it's actually two words??? I guess that's why they were mumbling about that stupid old redneck.
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Mutt,
Use the search function and you can find more than you want to know about building forges. Here's a link to one topic Links to Forge Plans that has more links within the thread.
Good Luck, this stuff is addicting!
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Don,
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into keeping this place running.
Even when you have to change it to make it better! We HOPE!?!?
Hey who moved all the Smileys to that side ---->
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john marcus Posted Today, 03:23 PM
thanks looks like it would control the temp as well
The design was recommended primarily for temperature control, making it possible to idle a blown forge at whatever temperature you want within the limits of the blowers and burner used. It was reported that this controller set up would hold the forge to +/- 5 F of the desired set point, without the undesired flash(WHOOSH) of using forge temperature reignition.
This could also be used to operate a gas powered heat treat forge with the addition of a muffle to minimize steel decarbeurization.
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John,
You might try this arrangement on the pdf file attached.
It came from another forum, and at least one forge controller has been built and is being used successfully from the design. It does require the purchase of a PID controller and some other hardware, but with careful shopping it shouldn't be too expensive.
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Hi Everyone,
I just was catching up with Aldo and noticed he's been too busy to do an update on the 1084. So i'll do my best to try to concentrate on that part of our conversation that pertained to the 1084.
robert washburn Posted Jul 31 2009, 08:13 AMWhat length is this steel? Robert
Robert,
The steel usually ships in four foot lengths at just over 5 lbs each. I haven't seen the new improved shipping containers, but my steel orders have never been short or damaged when I got them. Although I did need about a half a day just to get off all the duct tape from the original shipping method!
Christopher Price Posted Yesterday, 03:02 PMAldo, any update on how the run went?
Chris,
As happenened last year, the mill has moved the smelting date to match their production schedule changes. The new smelting date will be about two weeks from now, and the rolling will take a couple more weeks to get done. Aldo thinks he should start shipping around the second week of September at the latest.
Just as an aside if you preordered please remember to send your payment.
If you haven't heard back from Aldo he's trying to go through his e-mail as soon as the multiple rush jobs he has been working on make it through inspections. Believe it or not he really has a day job. His rented mule, that he disguises as a van, keeps needing to see the vet. So everything, business and personal, has been backing up. I keep telling him not to hit that mule quite so hard.
Hopefully I got everything right on this update. If not, hopefully Aldo will correct me if he can find the time to get on line.
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Nick Wheeler Posted Today, 03:12 PM
Grr... gonna have to do the test another time. Had some issues and I'm just not happy with my test blades. This sucks, I was really hoping to pass and have Don's signature on my ABS test paper.
Thanks for the support guys!
Nick,
Don't worry about it.
I'm certain, knowing you, there was a valuable lesson you have learned. When you work out the kinks please let the rest of us know what you found out. This old bonehead appreciates the way you usually do that with the knowledge you have to share.
You'll get there
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I can read the handle stamp now that I'm taking time to look closer at the pic. They are 1/4" X ???
What width are the TONGS YOU LOVE
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Hey Nick,
Are those Tom Tongs or GS tongs in the last pic?
I hate you for your anvil
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Hi Nick,
It's really nice to see you on this forum
hankknickmeyer Posted Today, 11:02 AMNick,
Keep it thin. Most of the knives that have failed (in the people testing with me) fail the bending test.
This echoes what I've heard from every Mastersmith for all performance test knives, so I'll leave it to Hank's words.
I know how anal you are
... so I'm not worried about you passing the test.
GO FOR IT!!
Mike
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deker Posted Yesterday, 09:04 PM
I talked to Aldo yesterday.
I bet that was an expensive bill...Talking to Aldo all day yesterday
But I can't wait to talk to him myself, just to see what kind of beneficial madness he's come up with for the bladesmithing crowd
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+1 on being able to view this video again. I lost mine in the interim of migrating computers.
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Is their a standard for what glasses should be used when gas forging?
Something that blocks a ceratin rays or percentage of UV or anything like that?
Look at the safety glasses thread pinned at the top of this same Beginners Place forum
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I think the prominent guards on the Scagels help draw the eye away from the position of the spine in the handle. For whatever reason it just doesn't seem as obvious in his blades.
It doesn't seem as obvious in a true Scagel blade because there is a transition curve that puts the handle inline with the spine of the blade at some point on the handle. It's like he was using a french curve to align the handle and blade spine to give the hand some distance from the work area, and offset the alignment at the juncture of the tang and guard. This is probably why they feel so good in the hand, at least the one Dr. Lucie let me hold at his table at last years BLADE Show felt good
one of Don's
in Nominations
Posted
This one definitely needs to be in the Hall of Fame!