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Dave Stephens

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Everything posted by Dave Stephens

  1. Beautiful! And with the highly polished finish there is no where to hide any sloppy finish. Bold choice, and well executed. Thanks for sharing it.
  2. I'm sorry I didn't post this earlier. All the equipment has been claimed. Thanks guys. Dave
  3. The milling machine is gone. Everything else is still available. I'll keep it exclusively to this group for a week. If no interest after a week I'll offer them to the local school shop program.
  4. All: I am selling my home in Florida and need to get rid of my bladesmithing equipment. I thought about selling this stuff, but I'd rather see it go to a Bladesmith that will use the equipment well. I have four large pieces of equipment that any bladesmith can have if they come to my house in Florida and haul it away. You have to have a truck and the ability to load the equipment. I'll help, but some of this stuff will require at least three guys. I will have an engine block lifter for the milling machine. Please DM me if you can get to Lake Mary, Florida i
  5. It's a great looking EDC. If it was me, I would shorten the ricasso, or grind a finger grip with a small wheel into the long ricasso. Also, the plunge cut might be cleaned up a bit. Consider cutting it in with a round file before grinding. Another tip with plunge cuts is to cut a half round notch into the profile at the meeting point between the ricasso and the edge. This removes the gradual transition between the edge and the "bar" of the ricasso and creates a binary (either sharp edge or blunt ricasso). Just minor points that are mostly personal prefere
  6. Been watching this on FB. Luck in the cast, Jul! Looking forward to seeing it whole and complete! Dave
  7. Great to see you and everyone else still in the fight. I've been so tangled up in keeping the company afloat due to Covid I haven't put hammer to anvil in a very long time. Feel like I'm losing a part of my soul. Thanks for the inspiration.
  8. Beautiful. The curve of the forward bolster is really nice. Non makers might not appreciate the difference between a flat bolster and a curved one w/ multiple spacers, but every bladesmith looks at that and goes . . . wow, that a lot of fiddly work to ensure no gaps. Impressive. Dave
  9. Awesome work! Love the fuller. Looking forward to seeing it done!
  10. Really nice lines. Love the curved bolsters w/ the thin spacers. That wood is a trip. When I first saw it I thought it was fossilized bone of some kind. Thanks for posting.
  11. Post a video of it at work! Thanks for sharing.
  12. Pro tip: If you cook your brussel sprouts in coconut oil it makes it easier to slide them off of your plate and into the garbage. Really nice looking knife, Austin. I like the curve of the base of the blade near the bolster. Also, the sweeping curve of the butt of the grip is elegant. Well done.
  13. Good looking W's. As Brian pointed out (and I'm sure you already know this) the end grain is the interesting bit, so the question is how will you get those W's on the surface of the blade and not just a tiny little mosaic at the end of the tang? If you don't want to to the mosaic route, twisting is a good choice. Twist up two bars of this in opposite directions and use them as the center bars for a sword or dagger. It'll produce a nice explosion pattern like this (if you grind into it)
  14. Welcome, Bill! This forum has a ton of info on it. It's been going for years, so you can find nearly anything you're interested in. However, the search engine built into this thing stinks. So here's the trick. Go to google and type site:bladesmithsforum.com "the thing you're looking for" That way Google will search the site for you. Way better results. Omit the quotation marks if you don't want to look for the exact phrase. Luck in the quest! Dave
  15. Seems like a good idea to me. The shop press frame is rated to the 20 ton press already. We know that the "mini" hydraulic press idea works from the long-running thread that Jaron posted. I think Jess has just skipped the step of welding up his own frame for the 20 ton air jack and used a commercially available one. Jess, if I were you I would read through that (very long running thread) that Jaron posted. Some good lessons learned there. I think that small, drawing dies (like 1" round stock) will work better with this sort of staccato (hammer like) pressure. They will
  16. Welcome to the quest! Geoff and Alan make excellent points. RR Spikes are fun and really good practice. Ditto what Alan said re: dull belts. Here's a trick to reduce the amount of wear on the belts. Get a cheap 4" hand held grinder and grind all the black stuff from the forge off before you start grinding. You can also remove a lot of the material with the hand held grinder before going to the belt grinder to set the bevels and polish. Don't worry about only have a 2x42" grinder. That's what I had for many years and it works just fine. 72" belts last a bit longer, but that's real
  17. I think it's a great first knife. Much better than my first! If it is a chef's knife, you might consider dropping the point a bit to minimize the rocking necessary for chopping veggies, etc. Also, for aesthetics, I would have rounded the front of the hand slabs in a complimentary radius to the butt of the grip. Keep going! Dave
  18. Yes, you can forge it to shape. Absolutely. Just make sure to not work it too cold. You can get delaminations if you do. Keep it orange heat. Do you know what pattern you have? Keep in mind, if the billet is straight laminate (just stacked, welded, and folded) then you need to actually grind into it to reveal the pattern, so if you forge it very close to shape it will result in a less dramatic pattern. For some patterns, however, you need to forge close to shape. There's actually a lot to cover on this subject. Luck! Dave
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