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Dave Stephens

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Everything posted by Dave Stephens

  1. Really nice lines. Love the curved bolsters w/ the thin spacers. That wood is a trip. When I first saw it I thought it was fossilized bone of some kind. Thanks for posting.
  2. Post a video of it at work! Thanks for sharing.
  3. Pro tip: If you cook your brussel sprouts in coconut oil it makes it easier to slide them off of your plate and into the garbage. Really nice looking knife, Austin. I like the curve of the base of the blade near the bolster. Also, the sweeping curve of the butt of the grip is elegant. Well done.
  4. Good looking W's. As Brian pointed out (and I'm sure you already know this) the end grain is the interesting bit, so the question is how will you get those W's on the surface of the blade and not just a tiny little mosaic at the end of the tang? If you don't want to to the mosaic route, twisting is a good choice. Twist up two bars of this in opposite directions and use them as the center bars for a sword or dagger. It'll produce a nice explosion pattern like this (if you grind into it)
  5. Welcome, Bill! This forum has a ton of info on it. It's been going for years, so you can find nearly anything you're interested in. However, the search engine built into this thing stinks. So here's the trick. Go to google and type site:bladesmithsforum.com "the thing you're looking for" That way Google will search the site for you. Way better results. Omit the quotation marks if you don't want to look for the exact phrase. Luck in the quest! Dave
  6. Seems like a good idea to me. The shop press frame is rated to the 20 ton press already. We know that the "mini" hydraulic press idea works from the long-running thread that Jaron posted. I think Jess has just skipped the step of welding up his own frame for the 20 ton air jack and used a commercially available one. Jess, if I were you I would read through that (very long running thread) that Jaron posted. Some good lessons learned there. I think that small, drawing dies (like 1" round stock) will work better with this sort of staccato (hammer like) pressure. They will
  7. Welcome to the quest! Geoff and Alan make excellent points. RR Spikes are fun and really good practice. Ditto what Alan said re: dull belts. Here's a trick to reduce the amount of wear on the belts. Get a cheap 4" hand held grinder and grind all the black stuff from the forge off before you start grinding. You can also remove a lot of the material with the hand held grinder before going to the belt grinder to set the bevels and polish. Don't worry about only have a 2x42" grinder. That's what I had for many years and it works just fine. 72" belts last a bit longer, but that's real
  8. I think it's a great first knife. Much better than my first! If it is a chef's knife, you might consider dropping the point a bit to minimize the rocking necessary for chopping veggies, etc. Also, for aesthetics, I would have rounded the front of the hand slabs in a complimentary radius to the butt of the grip. Keep going! Dave
  9. Yes, you can forge it to shape. Absolutely. Just make sure to not work it too cold. You can get delaminations if you do. Keep it orange heat. Do you know what pattern you have? Keep in mind, if the billet is straight laminate (just stacked, welded, and folded) then you need to actually grind into it to reveal the pattern, so if you forge it very close to shape it will result in a less dramatic pattern. For some patterns, however, you need to forge close to shape. There's actually a lot to cover on this subject. Luck! Dave
  10. Hi everyone. When I was a teen there was an illustration in a Dungeons and Dragons book of a sword that was shooting a lightening bolt, or energy, or something. The drawing showed the sword encased in wavy, crackling energy or magic or something. Here is my attempt to capture that feeling in pattern weld. Minor inclusion near the base of the blade, but . . . meh . . . still looks okay. This is an Oakeshott XII blade, copied pretty exactly from Peter Johnsson's design. I haven't come up with a hilting plan for it yet. Probably bronze fittings and carved black
  11. 1080 and 15n20 are an easy weld. There should be no problem of having the same steel on the weld. Without more data it is hard to troubleshoot. From what you describe you should be getting good welds. However, feather pattern by its very nature wants to delaminate all the time. You probably already know this, but keep it HOT, because if you try to move the steel in a feather billet when its even a little too cold and it'll split up like a celebrity couple. You're not getting flux trapped inside your welds, are you? Make sure you are grinding the layers to a crowned sha
  12. All the 2012 Videos are back now. So, we've lost some trailers and the infamous "Cheesy Swordsmiths" videos forever, but the main content is all back now. 2013 full-length is on the homepage of Arcticfire.org, the 2012 videos are under the video subpage, and I'm starting to link the 2016 videos there. Until then, all the 2016 videos are on Michael's Youtube page linked above. Thanks again Alan and Michael! Dave
  13. When setting a weld with a hand hammer you can have what appear to be a perfect weld by grinding the edge but the layers have not fully fused because insufficient force has been used to join the layers fully. Good welds = Clean + Heat + Pressure. The reason those of us with hydraulic presses, etc. have an easier time in setting welds is the large amount of pressure we can apply. So, my guess is you had a good initial weld, but full layer fusion required more force for a full setting. Try this: Do exactly what you did before, but then take it back
  14. Hi all: Michael is doing his magic and recompiling (or whatever you call it) the videos from the DVD's generously loaned by Alan. So far we have Don's hand finishing techniques, Peter's sword construction, and my crushed W's pattern welding video. You can find them on his channel or the Arctic Fire website. Thanks Michael! Dave https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCONxF6KdMJN9ymPa2pT5S6A/videos http://www.arcticfire.org/videos.html
  15. Excellent. I'll add the videos back to the Articfire.org site and post youtube links here when done.
  16. Thanks Alan! Thanks also, John for the backup. I am very relieved we can get these pieces back online. Cheers! Dave
  17. I presume it was just out of insane jealousy of my charisma, talent, and rugged masculinity. Haters gonna hate. Right? (;
  18. That would be great, Alan. I'll DM you my mailing address. Thanks! Dave
  19. Our Arctic Fire youtube channel and Facebook page has been hacked or vandalized or whatever you call it. All the videos were deleted. I had a copy of the AF 2013 event on a local computer, so I was able to re-upload it to http://www.ArcticFire.org, and Michael Bergstrom, luckily, hosts the 2016 videos on his channel, but I have no access to our old 2012 videos. As you know, some of these are pretty popular and have significant historic/sentimental value for some of us because Don Fogg was one of the presenters. Does anyone have a copy of the 2012 DVD? If so, can we "b
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