Jump to content

Bart Y.

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Bart Y.

  1. Nice informative video. Thanks for posting. Mind if I ask what you were using before this?
  2. Has anyone seen/tried this product before Quck-Check Hardness Tester - by Flexbar They also have a File set
  3. I like it. Also glad to see you post again.
  4. Both links need a little bit of editing to work on my pc.
  5. Dang man sorry about your eyes. I hope things turn around. You're one of my favorite to read about on the forums.
  6. Nice to see some of your work. I've seen your ingots but not many of your blades.
  7. I really enjoy seeing your work and tutorials. I always smile when I see your posts on this sub-forum.
  8. Bart Y.


    Really nice, I like it. Good job man.
  9. I like em. I don't really understand what you did though with the 15n20.
  10. Took me a while to figure out what was wrong with the picture of the guys house. Then I saw the telephone pole in the middle of the driveway. I think the picture of the guy breathing air from toilet plumbing was an early bioterrorism picture the govt made. I don't think they have it on there site anymore but not sure.
  11. I sent an email to the email address they had listed with an IP tracker attached. Someone finally opened it so I have the IP of the computer they opened it from. Opened 18-Sep-08 at 07:39:53am (UTC -4:00) - 4days21hours13mins42secs after sending Location Prescott Valley, Arizona, United States (86% likelihood) Opened on mmds-216-19-22-244.mm.az.commspeed.net ( Language of recipient's PC: en-us (English/United States) Browser used by recipient: Moz/4.0 (MSIE 6.0; WinNT 5.1; SV1; .NET CLR 1.1.4322; .NET CLR 2.0.50727) Referrer http://mail. e-psu. com/cgi-bin/inbox. exe?id=0196f8e3f6af42725f5e0b58b47af474b312& cache=HVB9DTYIegIZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ-D6Sz8tQaDatxDdAZZZZZZZZZZZZZZRZZZZZAZYZRmVTZPIPZZw1yJZZV "Location Prescott Valley, Arizona, United States (86% likelihood)" - the city the email was likely opened. Could also be Cottenwood AZ according to another IP locator.
  12. Heres a link with a similar tutorial as the original poster linked. Some of the same pictures are used but with more details and some photographs. You can edit the link to show the whole article about construction of a Shinken post forging. Erik Nelson I believe gets credit for the tutorial. Tsukamaki part: http://www.ausblade.com/images/articles/shinken/Part3.pdf Edited to show whole pdf: http://www.ausblade.com/images/articles/Bi...ara_Shinken.pdf Here is the original article: http://www.ausblade.com/articles/34/
  13. Thanks, just what I was wanting to hear. Edit: It is sharpened at an acute angle (being less then 90 degrees) but I believe I know what you ment
  14. Thanks for the recommendations. I am not quite interested starting my own forge just yet. Just a bit interested in styles with there method of producing the style, and heat treatment. I'm curious about how its made, how its heat treated, how hard it gets, ect.
  15. I was thinking of getting a few books. I am wanting to read about pattern welding styles and methods, also details on heat treating lots of knife steels (pattern welded and not). This website seems to recommend "Step By Step Knifemaking" for heat treating and scrap steel selection. And maybe some of Jim Hrisoulas' books for pattern welding. I will probably get 3 books, any recommendations? I also have a question about a manufactured stainless steel Kershaw blade. I am sharpening at about 15 degree angle (30 degree bevel) because I thought the steel could handle a smaller bevel. Once I get to the fine stones it seems the slightest bur makes it really dull, even if I can’t feel the bur I know it's there because I'll just swipe the stone on the side the bur would probably be on and it will easily cut hairs again. Do you think it's not enough of an angle? The steel seems kind of flimsy if it only takes one or two swipes on the stone to straighten the blade.
  16. I must apologize, as you can probably tell, I have not read any bladesmith books. I see now my question was probably asking what the whole history was of sword production and steel development. I just saw one sword being made a certain way in the past and it simply is made differently now.
  17. Thanks for taking time to explain this to me. I appreciate it.
  18. Ah thanks for clearing that up for me, definitely changes things. I believe I understand how and why the tutorial is done, correctly now. So hardening the blade through quenching then softening the outside through salt bath until it doesn't pose as much risk of chip/crack through is the method used? What would be the advantages/disadvantages of both methods?
  19. Hello everyone, I have been reading your forum and I must say I really enjoy reading about how everyone shares there experimenting results, and others taking time to comment and assist. I must worn you I have never done any forge work yet nor can for a while (live in tight area with a curfew). Being my first post, a little about myself; I have taken arc welding classes (and just finished) while I’m obtaining an AA in some kind of engineering. My question is a general (as far as I can tell) question regarding steel choices for katana swords. I have searched the forums and read the tutorial on the main site and it helped a little regarding the answer but not completely. I was wondering if people do much traditional Japanese katana blade forging with two steels in the US and with modern milled steel. This is regarding using two steels, high carbon for the outside and low carbon for the inside. I read the reason the Japanese did this was so the outside can be harder but not crack/chip so much because the shock would be absorbed by the inner steel. On the tutorial this is not addressed directly (lack of my knowledge). It seems that the 1050 steel quenches nicely to where the outside is hard, where it quenched fast; and the inside is softer, where it quenched slower. What I was wondering in a nutshell, is this better this way to use one steel or just lack of our common steel choices in America. Next is, if there are common American steels one can use to pair up in a blade, and maybe give a couple examples. Or is it better these days to just use one steel such as the 1050 used in the tutorial. I realize lack of any experience is probably the reason I do not know the answer. Thanks for allowing me to become a member.
  • Create New...