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  1. Oh, I always assumed there was something in there to keep it from falling in. Do you think it would be a bad thing to put a shelf inside? I suppose I could add a hold down to the front shelf to keep the metal from tipping in too.
  2. I'm in the process of building me a new forge, which is going to be a vertical propane forge. I'm wondering what people use to span the gap between the openings inside the forge.
  3. Yeah, you are correct. I'm getting ready to heat treat a blade later today in fact. What is a good test for a blade?
  4. Especially when its probable that whatever you're making won't be the best! lol Though, I do thank you for the link to that site. I had been there before to get my furnace wool but I had not revisited since then. That steel seems pretty cheap to me and I will certainly be giving him a ring once I run out of my supply of practice free stuff.
  5. For those looking to buy plain silver for smelting here is a link to a good company. http://www.apmex.com/Category/860/Industrial_Silver.aspx This is their industrial silver page. Just plain silver bars and bits and silver shot.
  6. These are old Nicholson files, and I already did some experimenting with them and the metal should work fine. Plus, they were free so they are perfect to mess up as I gain experience, heh. I forged one out yesterday that turned out OK, certainly not spectacular, but it seemed the more I tried to fix it, the more it didn't change haha, so I decided to say screw it and I normalized it and started taking a file to it to finish up the shape. I'll post a pic of it later today perhaps.
  7. Ok, thanks guys for your responses. I'm going to grind some teeth off some old files I have and have a go at them. I was titling the metal on the anvil but I don't think I was hitting it very much on the off-hand side.
  8. Figure I would ask both my pertinent questions at once. I've been doing a good bit of forging lately after not being able to really get going after I started a year ago. I was trying to make some knives using some 4140 cutoffs I got a hold of. I noticed that after a while it would start to crack length ways after being compressed down, at the tang for instance. It never hit it when it was black. Is this normal? Is 4140 good for knives. I have some files laying around I'm working on grinding the teeth off of tomorrow. Second, beveling. It seems that when I try to bevel the edges, it always wants to corkscrew and the bevel seems to move off center quite frequently. Why is this and how best to avoid it? Thanks for your time.
  9. A friend of mine and I are going to get into foundry and casting work to make stuff like castings and steel for smithing. It has fallen upon me to design the actual furnace. My question is, what could I use for the interior lining to withstand the temperature so that the furnace can be as durable as possible and last as long as possible? I've not committed to any design yet, I'm just trying to find something that can stand up to a big temperature and laugh at it.
  10. Looks like how my anvil is set up. My dad got me my first anvil for Christmas, a nice wrought iron 150lb anvil welded to what I estimate to be about 300lb iron or steel cylindrical stand thing. It's neat and heavy as hell, I can barely pick it up.
  11. I'm probably going to salvage the body of my broken microwave and turn it into the body of my forge. It also so happens that it has a two sided blower (that is, electric motor with a centrifugal blower on each side of the shaft) that hopefully still works.
  12. Another question. The metal of the forge body, how thick does it need to be? I imagine it doesn't need to be too thick since the wool and the refractory lining should prevent most of the heat from getting to it, but I'd rather ask and be safe than not ask and waste time and money.
  13. So I decided to build a propane forge with a venturi burner if possible. I want to go venturi so I don't have to have an electrical source which will make it easier on me, but if I have to go with a forced air then so be it. The burner type isn't my prime concern, fuel efficiency is. I'm just going to use it to do regular forging with, no welding. I'm thinking of doing a horizontal forge with the body made out of a propane tank. I'm not going to be doing anything big so i was thinking of just having the opening and forge area be something like 6in wide, 3in tall, and run the length of the tank to the back minus the thickness of wool and other what not with an opening so i can slide a longer piece through. I'm going to have this opening be able to be closed when not in use so as to keep it as enclosed as possible. I was thinking of lining all sides of the forge area with firebrick with wool around this to the outside plus some satanite or other material to line the wool with. I'm also going to have a door with a small opening so I can see the metal as it heats and so the exhaust can escape. Probably just going to be a little window that is 2in long and 1 in tall. Now to the questions. 1) Which is more fuel efficient, venturi or forced air? I just want regular forging temps right now. 2) What buner (brand wise) is most fuel efficient? 3) Is a square forge area or cylindrical forge area best for heating? 4) What wool is the best insulator? 5) What material (such as satanite etc) is best to line the wool with? 6) Is there something I should line the brick with? 7) Is there anything else that can be done to insulate the tank to hold heat in better? 8) Anything else that can be done to increase fuel efficiency of the forge?
  14. Yeah, just get the cheapest kitty litter and make sure it is all natural and scent free. You can get a 25lbs bag at Walmart for like 3-4 dollars. You can get a bag of play sand for 3-4 dollars too. Then just save the ash from a pile of wood that gets burned.
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