Jump to content

C.Anderson

Members
  • Content Count

    1,006
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

C.Anderson last won the day on September 2 2015

C.Anderson had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

4 Followers

About C.Anderson

  • Birthday 10/27/1974

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    crisanderson27@gmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/crisanderson27
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ewing, VA

Recent Profile Visitors

1,260 profile views
  1. I have a tutorial around here somewhere. You can use laser stencils, or simple vinyl stencils if your design isn't too complicated. Without the triangles that would probably be fine in as small as 1/4" diameter.
  2. I love my AHP AlphaTIG 200. Fairly inexpensive ($730 shipped), inverter, TIG/stick, AC/DC (will do steel and aluminum both, as well as various brazing functions), dual voltage (110/240), high frequency start (super nice), 200mhz pulse, and welds like a beast from 10 amps to 200 amps. Oh, and a 5yr warranty for another $30 through Amazon I have an old 110v Blue Point MIG I'm looking to replace, and the Everlast (parent company to AHP) PowerMIG 200 is looking really nice. It's dual voltage also (really nice feature), MIG/stick, and has a host of other useful functions. Its running about the
  3. Do yourself a favor and pick up a $20 pyrometer off Amazon. Then you will KNOW what you're tempering at, instead of trying to guess. My tempering cycles are specific to the steel I use, in my shop, with my equipment. I've never liked sharing them as advice, because that can do more harm than good, depending on another's setup. In addition, I never saw what steel you are using, so even knowing what your numbers are, doesn't help much .
  4. I aim for 63-65HRC on carbon, and 61-63 on AEB-L...and reach this without chippiness. My edges are so thin that I can easily visibly deflect them by running my thumbnail under them (even pre-sharpening)...so I'm not compensating with a thick edge to stabilize things. In a bit under...4yrs?...making kitchen knives, I've only had three knives come back with damaged edges. One, I don't know WHAT he did with it. It looks like someone hacked a stainless sink edge repeatedly (this wasn't a temper issue, I'm 150% positive it was a usage issue. The other two are a matched set, and were smacked edge to
  5. There are exceptions to the chipping thing. Properly thermal cycled steel is much less prone to chipping even at high HRC, but it also won't 'bend'. If you apply enough force to bend it, it WILL chip...it just takes substantially more of that force than at softer HRC. Again, this negates any positive effect a traditional steel might have. Unless you're abrading the steel to some degree, you're not doing anything to the edge.
  6. A very high HRC knife, will not bend on an ultra fine edge. It will micro chip.
  7. In my opinion honing steels are worthless on high HRC kitching knives. As a matter of fact, if a customer uses (tries to use lol) a steel on my knives and I find out, I'm likely to come beat him with it. The proper way to maintain a high hardness kitchen knife is with a high grit oil or water stone (some ceramic 'steels' will do the trick as well)...and while this is a bit less convenient than a typical steeling, a proper knife shouldn't be getting dull during service anyhow.
  8. I find the ballooning of the black Rutland's (as I used to apply it, and as most still apply it) a tiny bit irritating, as it absolutely does change the hamon. It will follow the 'line'...but the effects above and below that line will be different. The 'habuchi' for example, will not be the same as if the clay were dried properly. That said, you shouldn't be using a thick enough layer to balloon much, and if you dry that thin layer in a tempering oven for 30-60 minutes, you'll find the puffing up of the refractory to be pretty much eliminated.
  9. Nice Alan, lol. Oreo is actually (or was actually) feral. The old shop/house was in a very rural area, and we had cats EVERYWHERE. They didn't tolerate people very well at all though, and trying to catch one was futile. That said, about 6mos ago I came out of the shop and saw her sitting in the middle of the field next to our property about 30yds away. My kids were playing outside, and when I pointed her out they said her name was Oreo and they talked to her all the time lol. Soooo, I called her by her name, and she turned and meowed back. From then on I looked for her pretty regularly, and wo
  10. So, I finally got moved. My new shop will be in my 2 car garage (roughly 18' x 19'). So far, this is what I'm thinking: That pretty much covers my current tooling, and leaves me a bit of bench space for a 20 ton air/hydraulic press, and horizontal disc grinder. I just installed a 100amp 12 slot distribution panel along the left wall (roughly over the EvenHeat). My two grinders will be on one 8ga/40amp circuit, the oven will be on it's own 8ga/20amp circuits, and I'll be running miscellaneous bench lighting on that wall from other 12ga/20amp circuits. The remainder of the shop will run off
  11. Wax will work if it is well affixed to the blade (no loose gaps etc). The only difficulty then is getting a clear image out of it .
  12. I just tapped the forge body with the threads on the burner tube, and screw it directly into the body. I formed the flare into the kaowool with satanite. Done deal, works great.
  13. I'm assuming you mean 1 1/4 x 3/4 x 1 1/4? If so, that's how mine is...only it's actually 1 1/4 x 1 x 1 1/4, because my supplier didn't have the x 3/4 ones. I just reduced down to the 3/4 burner tube by using a 1" close nipple, dremeling out the seam, and 'threading a 3/4" burner tube into it. I figured this would be less of a transition than using a reducer. It's working great.
×
×
  • Create New...