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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. I have a tutorial around here somewhere. You can use laser stencils, or simple vinyl stencils if your design isn't too complicated. Without the triangles that would probably be fine in as small as 1/4" diameter.
  2. I love my AHP AlphaTIG 200. Fairly inexpensive ($730 shipped), inverter, TIG/stick, AC/DC (will do steel and aluminum both, as well as various brazing functions), dual voltage (110/240), high frequency start (super nice), 200mhz pulse, and welds like a beast from 10 amps to 200 amps. Oh, and a 5yr warranty for another $30 through Amazon I have an old 110v Blue Point MIG I'm looking to replace, and the Everlast (parent company to AHP) PowerMIG 200 is looking really nice. It's dual voltage also (really nice feature), MIG/stick, and has a host of other useful functions. Its running about the
  3. Do yourself a favor and pick up a $20 pyrometer off Amazon. Then you will KNOW what you're tempering at, instead of trying to guess. My tempering cycles are specific to the steel I use, in my shop, with my equipment. I've never liked sharing them as advice, because that can do more harm than good, depending on another's setup. In addition, I never saw what steel you are using, so even knowing what your numbers are, doesn't help much .
  4. I aim for 63-65HRC on carbon, and 61-63 on AEB-L...and reach this without chippiness. My edges are so thin that I can easily visibly deflect them by running my thumbnail under them (even pre-sharpening)...so I'm not compensating with a thick edge to stabilize things. In a bit under...4yrs?...making kitchen knives, I've only had three knives come back with damaged edges. One, I don't know WHAT he did with it. It looks like someone hacked a stainless sink edge repeatedly (this wasn't a temper issue, I'm 150% positive it was a usage issue. The other two are a matched set, and were smacked edge to
  5. There are exceptions to the chipping thing. Properly thermal cycled steel is much less prone to chipping even at high HRC, but it also won't 'bend'. If you apply enough force to bend it, it WILL chip...it just takes substantially more of that force than at softer HRC. Again, this negates any positive effect a traditional steel might have. Unless you're abrading the steel to some degree, you're not doing anything to the edge.
  6. A very high HRC knife, will not bend on an ultra fine edge. It will micro chip.
  7. In my opinion honing steels are worthless on high HRC kitching knives. As a matter of fact, if a customer uses (tries to use lol) a steel on my knives and I find out, I'm likely to come beat him with it. The proper way to maintain a high hardness kitchen knife is with a high grit oil or water stone (some ceramic 'steels' will do the trick as well)...and while this is a bit less convenient than a typical steeling, a proper knife shouldn't be getting dull during service anyhow.
  8. I find the ballooning of the black Rutland's (as I used to apply it, and as most still apply it) a tiny bit irritating, as it absolutely does change the hamon. It will follow the 'line'...but the effects above and below that line will be different. The 'habuchi' for example, will not be the same as if the clay were dried properly. That said, you shouldn't be using a thick enough layer to balloon much, and if you dry that thin layer in a tempering oven for 30-60 minutes, you'll find the puffing up of the refractory to be pretty much eliminated.
  9. Nice Alan, lol. Oreo is actually (or was actually) feral. The old shop/house was in a very rural area, and we had cats EVERYWHERE. They didn't tolerate people very well at all though, and trying to catch one was futile. That said, about 6mos ago I came out of the shop and saw her sitting in the middle of the field next to our property about 30yds away. My kids were playing outside, and when I pointed her out they said her name was Oreo and they talked to her all the time lol. Soooo, I called her by her name, and she turned and meowed back. From then on I looked for her pretty regularly, and wo
  10. So, I finally got moved. My new shop will be in my 2 car garage (roughly 18' x 19'). So far, this is what I'm thinking: That pretty much covers my current tooling, and leaves me a bit of bench space for a 20 ton air/hydraulic press, and horizontal disc grinder. I just installed a 100amp 12 slot distribution panel along the left wall (roughly over the EvenHeat). My two grinders will be on one 8ga/40amp circuit, the oven will be on it's own 8ga/20amp circuits, and I'll be running miscellaneous bench lighting on that wall from other 12ga/20amp circuits. The remainder of the shop will run off
  11. Wax will work if it is well affixed to the blade (no loose gaps etc). The only difficulty then is getting a clear image out of it .
  12. I just tapped the forge body with the threads on the burner tube, and screw it directly into the body. I formed the flare into the kaowool with satanite. Done deal, works great.
  13. I'm assuming you mean 1 1/4 x 3/4 x 1 1/4? If so, that's how mine is...only it's actually 1 1/4 x 1 x 1 1/4, because my supplier didn't have the x 3/4 ones. I just reduced down to the 3/4 burner tube by using a 1" close nipple, dremeling out the seam, and 'threading a 3/4" burner tube into it. I figured this would be less of a transition than using a reducer. It's working great.
  14. Thank you . And there's no reason two people can't post the same thing if the information is good, lol. The clay layout on that katana was interesting...and the process (interrupting etc) is definitely what gave me the double line. I was shooting for something like Howard Clark's 'razorwire'...and what I got does...ehh....'resemble' it in small ways I guess lol. Funny thing is, I almost duplicated it on two blades in a row. I think it would be fun making a post where people guessed at the clay layout .
  15. Again, brine into oil is an amazing thing with 1075. W1/W2 as well for that matter. Your clay layout above is perfect for it. View Album, http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/CrisAnderson27/library/Bladesmithing/First%20Katana Take a look there. The 4th blade I ever made. 23", and a dual hamon. That wasn' me...it was the steel, and the quenchant.
  16. I think 1075 in Canola oil is the problem. That said, I can't see your clay layout, or how you ground the knives either. My suggestion is 3 seconds into 120°F brine, out 4 seconds, then into your canola oil at 400°F for 10 seconds...then out and wave in air or park in front of a fan (spine to edge) for 30 seconds to a minute. From there, temper at 375 for 30 minutes, check your line on the grinder, then of you're happy fin ish your temper cycles. Lay your clay on 1/16" to no more than 1/8"...and you'll get results.
  17. Hey! I have one too! I use it to hold open one of my tool box lids, lol.
  18. Well, remember too brother, my burner is about 3-4" from the door right now, and pointed straight down for heat treating lol. I think with a single burner placed tangent and in the middle, it would work pretty well.
  19. I actually made some adjustments on mine, including lowering the injection nozzle down into the burner tube, and using a piece of magnetic sheet I had laying around for a choke lol. Definitely some welcome differences in tunability, and it seems to run better at all pressures now. It would sometimes stall, but I'm sure that will go away once I get used to where the choke needs to be for various psi settings. Here's a short video I took at 2-3psi right after I lit it tonight: https://www.instagram.com/p/BBRSuv4GOlF
  20. Absolutely! This community is easily the best general knife and sword smithing community i have been able to find in almost ten years. The respect, support, and knowledge here is unparalleled . Welcome aboard, and congratulations on the first hamon! Its addictive to say the least lol, in all of my time doing this I've never made a knife without one .
  21. Tomorrow I'm picking up the required parts to extend my injection nozzle down into the 3/4" port. I think that one thing, along with adding a port, will make the biggest difference in my burner's efficiency. I am at 300ci right now, and *should* be able to weld once I get things set. I'm also ordering some new tapered nozzles with bigger thread diameter that *should* be able to thread right into a tapped 1/8" brass nipple. This will help keep things concentric also. I'm currently using a .036" diameter orifice...but have the choice of .023", .030", and .036" in the form factor I'm looking
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