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C.Anderson

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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. I'm actually 95% certain they are quench cracks. Just the other day I dropped a piece of thicker steel (about 1/4" x 2" x 3") in the slop bucket after knocking it off with a hot cut. The cracks are random and run all across the surface of the steel, as opposed to radiating from the edge. They also do not go all the way through, and are different on both sides. If the steel was relatively even in thickness (as it appears in the picture) prior to quenching, I think its very likely what we're seeing. Some advice on heat treating in coal/charcoal, and you should practice this while normali
  2. Great first attempt at a knife! Those look a bit like quench cracks I've seen in thicker steel I've dropped into my slop bucket, or used to heat quenchant. Sometimes if you forge too low you get cracks, but I've never seen them look like that. I'm guessing you heated it on the high side before quenching maybe. What did it look like before finishing? Were the cracks there then? They don't look like cold shuts (the folds you mentioned) to me...but I could be wrong. Again...great first attempt!
  3. I don't know in California...JPH might know.
  4. Absolutely. Its a huge deal here in AZ. You can burn Arizona Desert Ironwood...but you'd damn well better not make knife handles out of it lol. If you get a permit you're more than welcome to haul off as much deadwood as you like though.
  5. Count me in as having zero knowledge, and a desire to learn.
  6. Thanks again . Rob...warpage is my biggest fight. It doesn't matter how much you normalize...its going to warp when its that thin. How much and in what direction is anybodies guess lol. If you grind them thin enough to make grinding post heat treat a reasonable proposition, they warp more. If you grind them thicker to help fight the warpage...you now get to work with twice the thickness of hardened W2, and trust me...that's NO fun. On top of that...its STILL warped lol. I don't have a belt grinder, just a 3x21 belt sander...which makes it even more a fight. That being said, I normally harden
  7. Thanks guys! Walter...I've found kitchen knives to be an absolute whirlpool for my knifemaking efforts lol. If you look at the last picture above, it looks like a simple, very thin wedge. The reality is it's very much ground like a blended shinogi zukuri katana with a 3" o-kissaki as far as the geometry goes, only with the actual shinogi (as the thickest part of the knife) being just a hair over 2mm thick. They're incredibly complicated little buggers, and getting them just right is a challenge I enjoy. Plus, and probably most important...the majority of the people who buy them use the
  8. Looks great!! Its hard to tell from the pictures, but what's the overall thickness (both now and intended?), and did you forge in distal taper?
  9. 215mm gyuto. Overall stats: Blade: W2 from Aldo Bruno. Weight - 186g Balance is about 3cm forward of the ferrule. Edge length - 215mm (8.5") Heel to belly (flat part of edge) - 115mm (4.5") Overall length - 395mm (15.5") Height at heel - 48mm (1.9") Height at midblade - 33.5mm (1.34") Height 5cm from tip - 27mm (1") So far, this is my favorite of the kitchen knives I've made. The design and execution pretty much went flawlessly, which as we all know is worth appreciating! I'm pretty happy with this blade overall. Its my first 'tall' chef's knife at 50mm on the heel, and
  10. That's partially what I'm talking about Alan...the spine should flow as one line, and the ricasso on this type knife should be in line with the bottom of the handle as well. Like you said, this is no problem with a stick tang. I actually printed the knife off and took a look. I think the curvature on the butt is fine. There's an illusion of a crazy amount of curve due to the blade being drawn level. If you turn it to a bit more natural level...making the centerline from butt to tip level...it becomes much more of a drop point, and the curve on the butt isn't so exaggerated. The changes I
  11. Its a nice design...any changes I'd make are more personal preference. Things like a more even transition from ricasso to handle, and a bit less curve to the butt while still retaining the shotgun overall shape.
  12. Hey guys...I've got a question. A friend of mine said he recently bought a 'HUGE POWER HAMMER!'...lol. He's calling it a 'Stamp Hammer'...and said its a 'Garmeen Lesley' from Russia, and was imported in the 50's. Now...try as I might...I can't find a single reference to this thing on the internet. His description of it includes the words 'huge'...'heavy'...'massive'...etc. None of which are helping me. Now...this is the same friend that got me my anvils years ago (that took me 3mos of reminding him in order to actually GET)...and is known for exaggerating and/or flat out confusing things.
  13. I've never used epoxies on knives before (I don't really do scales), but recently I've been looking into them to seal my kitchen knife handles, as opposed to beeswax. Count me in for the discussion .
  14. Thanks Tony! I'm in pretty much regular contact about his W2 lol. My understanding is that he's looking at January hopefully for the new batch. I have four sticks of the junk W2, and he replaced them with six sticks of old stock W2 without blinking, and told me to use the junk stuff for tomato stakes lol. Its things like this that will keep me going back to Aldo exclusively for steel. The only other place I deal with is onlinemetals.com, and that's because Aldo doesn't carry W1, and online metals has great pricing and a nice certification (a bit of vanadium AND tungsten!) on their steel.
  15. This is how I did my first friction folder, only I used a small nail for the pin, and two brass washers. When I trimmed the pin, I trimmed it so that half the diameter of the pin was extended beyond the second washer. From there the peened ends matched nicely . All in all it looks great Caleb! I do have some questions based on the pictures though? First...is the handle all one thickness throughout? Meaning is the butt the same thickness as where the pin goes through? Generally you want a little taper from rear to front (distal taper in the handle, if you will). This helps you get a secure
  16. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26985&hl'>W1 gyuto-hiki chef's knife.
  17. Sneak peek for you all. But first I have to ask........what goes well together? Why, hamon and burl of course!!
  18. So...I have some good news, and some bad news. First the bad. I got the knife back from Son late last week. The idea was to remove the handle (it was held in place with beeswax), repair the modified tip, repolish the blade...and get it sent off to Jae in Canada within the week. Unfortunately the temporary beeswax handle adhesive was a hell of a lot more thorough a mount than I expected, and I shattered the ferrule trying to remove it :l. Fortunately I already had some wild dyed and stabilized burl wood on standby, since a new handle is now in order. Also, given the things I've learned in t
  19. Thanks Geoff. And thanks for posting these Jake...as always I love the look of your knives .
  20. Nice set Jake!! Do you know offhand what US steel cs70 is comparable to?
  21. Kind of, but not really. I use a wax buff to finish up my handles for the most part. The buff pretty much takes care of anything so loose that it'll chip or peel. What's left is pretty solidly on there. If you look closely at the butt of the knife in the first picture, you'll see that it's pretty much all solidly connected. Just the appearance of bark is left.
  22. Thanks Caleb! That's actually the raw bark from the blank I used to make the scales .
  23. ...friction folder . This order came from someone who's definitely become a good friend over the last few months. As some of you know, I've been primarily making kitchen knifes since I've been back to work in the forge. I was contacted here via PM by a professional chef who was curious about my work. I sent him a knife to abuse for a week (from my http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26985]WIP thread[/url]), and the feedback he's given me has been invaluable. Last week he asked me if I knew how to make a friction folder. My reply was 'Umm...well, I know how...but I've never a
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