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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. I don't have a 2x72, but I've found that when I go to higher grits, the belt seams dig divits in my blade. Very frustrating.
  2. I'd like to see how this one turns out...love the profile!
  3. 330mm sujihiki (Japanese slicing knife). This is a quick etch at 36 grit just to see what might be there to see .
  4. That's a good suggestion Jake. I've got to say that the tip really was just plain overly thin. It was actually difficult to sharpen properly due to the flex in the last 1/8". The next one will certainly have this issue corrected. Oh, speaking of the next one... 330mm cutting edge sujihiki. FUN, fun stuff
  5. Well, that's a relief then =p. I'm glad you're liking how it cuts! That was my first concern of course, with edge retention being a close second. I never figured I'd have to be worried about projectile injury though, lol. I hate to be the cause of you breaking your streak lol. You'll have to get me a picture when you can. Thanks again for taking this on for me. I'm really thankful to have someone who is willing to give me a brutally subjective review on my work! Too many people are overly concerned with feelings on this stuff. I'd rather have the truth so I can make the next one better .
  6. Thanks Sam! I have really been enjoying using the DMT diamond plates. I ordered the 8"x3" in extra fine and extra-extra fine. I also ordered 6, 3, and 1 micron diamond paste, and .5 micron spray. I made sprays out of the paste as well, and use them on industrial grade pieces of felt attached to a magnetic base. The base and felt are cut to the size of the diamond plates (you stick them to the plate to use them), so switching them out is easy. Annnd, an update on my little gyuto! It made it safely to my friend (a professional chef) in New York City, and I'm proud to say his review was VERY pos
  7. They're all nice, but I really like this one! The spine makes me think of bones .
  8. I wonder where the rest of my post went lol? Or was that on cktg?? Sometimes its hard to keep track! And yes!...a knife-talk break would be particularly nice in the next few weeks! You'll be the first bladesmith I've ever met face to face, lol.
  9. Gorgeous Don! I've seen the Sabatier on your youtube...looks like a sweet cutter!
  10. Very nice Daniel!! Depending on the clay you're using, a little bubbling is ok. When I use satanite, I don't bother with drying, and have no problems with the clay sticking (as long as the blade was clean!). It sometimes comes off in the quench with brine, but it hasn't affected my pattern. With Rutlands I don't bother with drying either, and I have to knock it off post quench before I can straighten. Again, great work! Welcome to the wonderfully frustrating world of differential hardening lol.
  11. Initially I brought it down to at or slightly below .05mm right before sharpening. In trying to measure it with a digital caliper now, its reading in the .08-.12mm range. This is the other one: For comparison, the recent one is 2.35mm, 2.17mm, 1.16mm, and .5mm along the spine. 2cm above the edge the new one reads 1.92mm, 1.91mm, and 1.16mm. Of the two, the other is more what I'd consider a laser type cutter. Cutting with it is pretty much effortless, almost anywhere along the edge from heel to tip. Though it is relatively flexible. This one takes more work (relatively) from heel to
  12. Thanks Sam! Those are great links and I'll definitely be taking advantage of them!! Now, as promised, some final pictures. Today was very bright with a really even cloud cover...it made for some great pictures with rather accurate color...I was pretty excited once I saw, lol. First the handle. The top picture is from the spine down, the second from the right side flat. The purpose of these was to a: show the color, and b: show the ways in which I deviated from the traditional octagonal bevel setup. Knife profile and tip down. Handle again. Some choil shots
  13. Thanks James! Actually this whole post sort of came about for two reasons lol. The first purpose is that I was making this knife for Jae (my friend)...the second, is my chef friend had contacted me about me possibly making him one. Jae will love anything pretty that cuts better than a Wusthof Classic, so this blade is a guaranteed home run in that quarter lol. Professional chefs however, are much more discerning when it comes to their knives...not to mention that they use them 8-12hrs a day in a comparably harsh environment. Add to that the fact that I never liked making something 'good en
  14. Thanks James! I'm pretty happy with it . After doing the edge up today with the DMT stones, there's a noticeable difference in cutting efficiency. The bad news about this is that I haven't a clue what a high end kitchen knife is supposed to feel or like, lol (I know its better than the 'Good Cook' brand I used to use!). The good news is that a friend who is a professional chef has offered to take the knife for a week or two and critique for me before it goes off to its new owner. I'm looking forward to it for sure .
  15. Thanks Don! I'm not the greatest with this 'good pictures' thing, lol...but I snapped a couple for now to get the feel across, then once its all ready to go, I'll try to get something worthwhile taken and posted. Still needs tweaked here and there...the blade needs sealed for one lol, plus it needs sharpened. I set the edge angle at 14° included with an inexpensive 600g diamond stone, but I'm waiting for my 1200g and 8000g (extra fine and extra-extra fine...what a silly way to name them!) 8" continuous DMT plates to get here Saturday to finish the edge out. After that, I'll redo the et
  16. Very nice Caleb!! I have a very similar forge setup in a paint can...only I used kaowool and satanite for my insulators. Way back when I made my first one, I did a small video tutorial on how. I've since changed a few things (mostly a more open front and rear, using K23 fire bricks to hold in the heat), but this process will definitely get you through the basic logistics. Whether you use a paint can, or a soup can...or anything else for that matter, I highly recommend some purpose designed thermal insulators. The difference from those to home grown is incredible. Actually....if
  17. Well, in that case I'm more than happy I could contribute . I really do have an incredible level of appreciation for this place and the members here. Any skills I may have gained since the first blade I posted years ago is a direct result of the help and advice I've received from you all. When I feel I'm in a position to give back, doing anything less would be a shame.
  18. That's gorgeous man!! Funny thing...I was just talking about that saya you made from buckeye burl yesterday on Instagram, lol!
  19. Love it, lol. I have a few videos of sharpness testing on my YouTube I think...but those knives weren't designed to flex in any way, shape, or form. The geometry is such that it just ain't happening, lol.
  20. Very nice!! As soon as my DMT stones arrive (I'm hoping Saturday!), I'll see what I can do . Actually, I have one from an older knife I made I think I can post....lets see.... That edge angle was super wide (knowing what I know about convex edges now...45° wasn't even close). The customer was going to be using it for a lot of abusive purposes. Still...it was quite sharp for what it was. Oh, and please ignore the musical background, lol...it was sort of an inside joke on the forum that the video was originally posted on.
  21. Thanks Sam . I appreciate the compliment, and am very grateful for the opportunity to share. As for the power supply, I mentioned it both above and in the article lol...its an old Sears Everstart battery charger. My understanding is most anything with current will work. From computer power supplies to 9v batteries. I do know that if you're using a battery charger, you need the kind that doesn't sense for load in order to charge. Either that or put it on the 'jump start' setting so it isn't looking to shut itself off when the battery is 'charged' lol.
  22. Little by little its getting closer to being finished. Last night I sealed a couple of the eyes (and a few larger gaps...there's lots of small ones) in the handle with CA glue, so today I sanded it all back down and rebuffed it. Once that was done, I decided to go ahead and etch my maker's mark into the right side flat using salt water and an old battery charger. I previously wrote up a full tutorial of the etching process http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17602&hl='>here, but I'll go over it again quickly with the pictures. First you need a resist. I had min
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