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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. No worries! I'm about to be contrary again lol... Golf ball dimples will work as well, particularly for rich mixture wet flow applications. It makes the 'boundary layer' thicker, decreasing overall effective port volume, but helps reduce puddling and increases overall flow. I just never used it because it's too difficult to get even dimples inside a port for an average guy...thus the low grit port walls to get a similar net effect. This kind of stuff is F1 car level and higher, where an engine can cost $250,000, and set of cylinder heads an easy 40% of that lol. Edit ~ I
  2. Actually dimpling and/or a roughened surface is very useful for increasing airflow and air speed within a port (which is what our burner tubes are). The idea is that air has less friction than the surface if virtually any other medium, and so by creating a thin layer of turbulence via a regular patterning of dimples or roughness, the air that is not disrupted will see significant gains in air speed and so, overall CFM. The idea isn't to promote lift, but to make the tube more 'slippery' for want of a better word, to reduce the overall coefficient of friction, and increase airflow. I've used th
  3. I'm still kind of in a 'well, it works!' zone right now. I spent a bit of time tonight adjusting my injection nozzle placement, and I've come to the conclusion it needs to be lower than it can currently reach (ala the other thread in this forum). No need to apologize!! And I actually did that tonight as well on the choke thing. The differences were negligible, and as Jerrod says, the thing seems to want more air, not less. I'm actually going to order a pair of those wyes and redo the burner bodies. May as well do it the best way possible to begin with, and the wye is going to disrupt
  4. Quick corrections! It's a 1 1/4 x 1 x 1 1/4 tee, and I've made zero attempts to improve or tune anything yet . When I do my first moves will be a choke, and injection nozzle placement. But...I do agree with you completely Joshua! Just no time right now to go into it completely. Please, carry on!
  5. I wonder how well that will work Jerrod. The concept seems there, but the most efficient forges I know of work at lower pressures lol...so I would have to think it through.
  6. 45 is better. Harder to find by a mile. I went to my local industrial plumbing supply and they hadn't even heard of them. I've found them here though. At the other places I've found them in the past they were all on back order once put in the cart however...so I never bothered to pursue it.
  7. I was looking around Grainger, and found these as well, which might work better as I believe they are the right diameter to just screw into the 1/8" nipple: https://www.grainger.com/product/AMERICAN-TORCH-TIP-Contact-Tip-45G045?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP In addition, they come in packages of 5 for $12 lol. I'm running .036" now....but I'm curious what all you guys are running.
  8. I used blanket because it's much easier to form. That said, if you do so be sure you coat it with satanite or some other refractory mortar. Breathing in little pieces of refractory blanket is very, very bad for you.
  9. Nose my friend...the nose placement lol. I haven't adjusted where my injection NOSE is either lol. Something I definitely need to do .
  10. Hey there Jerrod! Is there any real benefit to the taper tips? I was actually hoping I could find a tip that I could screw directly into the tapped 1/8" nipple. I hate having a junction there!
  11. Btw, I just built a burner almost exactly like this less than two weeks ago lol. Mine doesn't protrude down into the 3/4" burner tube however. I may need to adjust that!
  12. Point of fact, they might dimple it . Well said though, lol...I'm just being contrary today .
  13. Pretty much, yep! The flare is built into the forge lining though...so it won't wear out . I've still got to learn to tune the things...but they definitely get hot, that's for sure. What mig tips/orifice are you using, out of curiosity?
  14. Yep lol. the only modification was tapping the inside of the weird little adapter for the mig tip, and drilling out the 1/2" x 1/8" brass adapter so the brass nipple would slide through. Outside of that it was literally a screw together deal.
  15. I just recently built a burner for about $29 in parts, including all of the brass pieces from the ball valve forward. The end result works well enough, though i haven't done any adjusting so I don't know if it will weld when done. I already had a POL adapter and a regulator so it was just a matter of a hose with adapters, the ball valve, a 90, brass nipple, mig tip, a 1 1/4" x 1/8" reducer, the 1 1/4' x 3/4" x 1 1/4" tee, and the remaining burner tube parts. It burns quick and clean from about 1psi to 17psi. My forge is about 300ci, but where I have the burner placed is for heat treating and b
  16. He means 72" diameter. I have the same platen.
  17. Graham Fredeen!! Super glad you're back my friend!! For those of you who don't remember, Mr. Fredeen here is the man who finally pushed me over the edge into making swords and knives...and with knives like this as his 'rusty' blades, you can see why.
  18. That square file will forge out to a 28" x 1.25" sword blade with great profile and distal taper. Just sayin .
  19. I think I can add to this one . Here's a few pictures of the only time my shop has EVER been clean lol. 10 minutes after I finished building it Forging area and heat treat oven in the middle back, and what ended up a finishing bench on the right. Grinding area and my forge on the right. That bench is huge and weighs a freaking ton...and is NOT going to be fun to move next month. The other side of the shop (the first two pictures were taken from the double doors). That bench has been with me since shortly after I first started making knives in 2008 lol. It currently holds a drill press
  20. Heya Wes! We saw Ride Along 2 lol. I'm not usually one for that kind of comedy...but it was actually pretty good . Platen chiller and wet grinding together are amazing lol.
  21. Hey Wes! Only have a quick moment to reply as we're in the theater waiting for the movie to start lol. On the wet grinding, I have used two systems. The first was a mist system like you'd use outside your front porch in the summer. Hook it up to a hose spigot and put a shut off valve on your grinder. This worked but the nozzles kept plugging with calcium. They were cheap and easy to change but it got annoying so I built a second system similar to an airbrush that uses compressed air and a siphon to pull chilled water from the bucket I use to feed my platen chiller. Between the chiller
  22. Beautiful work Wes!! But I've told you that already . I have had those scratches show up in the hardened steel as well...and have my own theory as to why (which falls in line with Kevin's). I make clay hardened kitchen knives almost exclusively anymore, and as we all know, those knives have to be thinner than is reasonable to heat treat. So they get forged, cleaned up to whatever grit I feel like (sometimes 60, sometimes 120...just depends....I've gone as high as 500 grit though, specifically to eliminate pre-heat treat grinding as an issue), and heat treated. From there, they get ground to
  23. Count me in on this information as well Wes! You know I'm always looking for more information on w2 and hamon .
  24. Absolutely! Out of curiosity...did you harden this one in a forge or oven? Either way you've gotta love W2 lol.
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