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C.Anderson

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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. Very nice! I was on the phone with Rich when you heat treated it . I'm seriously going to get some damascus going on myself!
  2. Thanks man! Never been to Tokyo lol, so for me it just means working the polish and etch until I'm happy with it, lol. Every blade is different, and the more you work, the more experience you'll have in making them do what you want. Maybe we'll get together one of these days and I'll help you out with some polishing tricks. It's awesome to find another local maker!
  3. Beautiful work on that one. Simple hamon are actually rather attractive when polished out right. They make for a really clean looking blade. If you can trick the thin habuchi into prominence, the results can be exceptional I think .
  4. Heya Owen! Great points across the board. One thing I'd like to mention is that the 3pt tempering jig method generally actually saves me time, in that the blade is straightening during the tempering process it would be going through anyhow. My tempering jig is very similar to my 3pt vice setup. What I've found is that by tempering it in this position, the set is eliminated by the time the blade is fully tempered.
  5. Mostly just use common sense. If it were a heavy set I was trying to remove, I'd heat it then bend it in the jig (safer to bend it while it's hot), then heat it some more. On one like yours, bend it a little...heat it, tighten the jig until it's at the full overbend, then heat it some more. I use hammers, mallets, dished stumps, overbend jigs in a tempering oven...and pretty much any other method I can find to make it work. On hardened carbon steel, the only thing I DON'T do is straighten cold.
  6. If you make a small metal three point jig and temper it with the bend overcorrected 200% (meaning bend it straight, then bend it the same amount past straight as the initial bend) it will usually relax in a temper cycle or two.
  7. Exactly, you send them in artwork, and tell them you need the negative, not the picture itself. Or you can send the artwork in as a negative so you don't have any confusion. To the OP, my stencils are about .25", and the letter size of the smallest letters MIGHT be pushing 1/16", but they aren't super clear at that low resolution, and some of the letters have to be cut out. Here's a thread that talks about it more if you're interested: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17602
  8. I use vinyl stencils that can be bought at any print/sign shop. My current ones come from FedEx/Kinko's.
  9. A good general use kitchen knife could be anywhere from .5-5mm or more thick at the spine, depending on where you measure. When you say 'at the spine'...that leaves a whole lot up for interpretation. I know of choppers that are 8mm on the spine and more at the thickest point. There are no rules, other than when you get too thin. Too thin means too flexible, too weak, and too flat to be useful except as a filet knife. And even beyond that...the ONLY rule is, if it cuts well for its intended product...its a good knife. Numbers can help you get in the range (maybe), but there's a whole hell of a
  10. What is the length of the knife? Honestly though?...and I hate to tell you this...even if it's shorter (150mm) that thickness pre-heat treat...is going to give you a lot of issues no matter what you harden in...and you won't be able to grind out any warpage because it's already so thin. That's honestly too thin even for a finished knife unless it's a small utility. Many guys stop grinding PRE-SHARPENING at .5mm on the edge. In the kitchen knife world, there is a type of knife called a 'laser'...and another type called a 'workhorse' (this terminology refers to the grind, not the shape). A wor
  11. If you want the 'cullens' for whatever reason...run down to home depot and pick up a proper diameter oak dowel (1/2" seems about right). Cut off a piece, and wrap it with 120 or 220 grit sand paper. This will give you a nice, perfectly shaped indentation, which you can further refine with higher grits. It's a bit labor intensive...but no more so than with needle files, and the end results will be more uniform and pleasant to look at.
  12. Most chefs don't like the curved choil. I keep it on my knives as a design element, but catch crap for it a lot. They like a straight down choil that drops right from the ferrule. For heat treating, your stated method will work fine.
  13. Very nice! I've been meaning to build myself a full on forge. My little paint can deal has handled everything I've thrown at it though, from swords to kiridashi lol. About all I've never done is weld...which is my next goal. Very nice!
  14. Well, the first thing I would say to you...is an answer to a question you didn't ask. Don't undersell your work. My kitchen knives sell for $3.50/mm to start (an 8" chef's knife starts at $720ish or so for example), and I'm booked solid through the middle of next year. I know as a newer kitchen knife maker you'll need to make sales etc, but I would highly suggest loaning out your first knives to a few local restaurant chefs and getting their input on what to change before selling anything anyhow. The kitchen knife market is recently being flooded with makers for some reason, and they're almos
  15. Heya everyone, lol. I just pointed this thread to a beginning smith, and thought I'd update. I never did harden it, though I may eventually some day. What I did do, was beat it with my heavy (8lb) hammer, lots of semi heavy even taps...work hardening the face. I did this pretty consistently over time, and eventually redressed the face just until it was perfectly flat. I gained an easy inch of rebound with a 1" bearing with this method, which puts it JUST shy of back into my hand. In the last five years, I've used the thing to death and honestly, I couldn't be happier.
  16. Love this! When I was going to build a vertical kiln, I was going to do three heat zones myself. Wih my calculations, I think what you're going to find is the top one almost doesn't even have to turn on lol.
  17. Just saw the picture Jake...and yep! Love that type of mount setup!
  18. Love the tsuba!! Do you have a closer, more highly angled picture of it (like from the blade up)? The finish is great.
  19. Gorgeous Wes!! And you know I love wrought myself, lol!
  20. There are so many variables here that it is almost impossible to trouble shoot without being in your shop...and I agree with the suggestions of the gentlemen above. One thing you could do is grind the blade smooth with a 220 or so grit belt, and etch it in ferric chloride. Look for an even line to indicate where your hardening stopped. If there's a line (and I'm betting there will be) you'll know what you got. If there's NO line, this won't tell you whether you got the blade hardened or not...just that it's completely one or the other. Also, a Nicholson file will be between 64 and 66 HRC. If
  21. I have a Pheer 454. I've used it side by side with a KMG, and honestly...found the Pheer smoother and more solid...partly due to the direct mount 56c motor. http://www.2x72beltgrinder.com/ I supplied my own motor (Leeson 3hp) and used the VFD to cut it down to 110v. I also opted for the 6" drive wheel, small arm attachment, and the flat platen vs a contact wheel arm...which I don't need or use for my knives. Pricing right now with motor is like $1575.
  22. If you meant my topic Alan, I just took care of it . I also backlinked to this post as well, and gave credit for the information to Geko. Thanks again to him for sharing!!
  23. Credit for this addition goes to Geko, who posted a topic recently regarding two beautiful kiridashi! You can find the topic here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=31895#entry308500 And here is his post regarding laser printing your stencils! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ hey guys, i made a little video about it for you . its really no big deal. and you can transfer nearly everything with it that you can print on paper. 1. to transfer a logo to a knifeblade you need a laser printer! inkjet dont work for this! and not every paper works. try differe
  24. I'd love to see it attached to my post! This is the biggest deterrent for people in regards to salt water etching. Even if you just tagged it at the end it would be incredibly helpful. Brilliant, and thanks for sharing!!
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