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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. Thanks for appreciating it!! That's the entire reason I wrote it .
  2. Love the kiridashi!! I wrote the etching tutorial (thanks for pointing him to it Alan!), but I'd be curious how the images were transferred from being laser printed, to being etchable though .
  3. I STILL have a Warlord action figure, lol. His cape is intact...though I'm not sure I have his helmet still. I'll have to dig it out and post a picture . By the way, I remember you from SFI, and it's been a LONG time since I heard the name 'Angus Trim'!!
  4. That handle material is crazy!...and the knife is gorgeous! Your daughter should absolutely love it .
  5. Another thing I'd suggest is a larger pipe than 8". You need internal volume, and to keep the blade FAR AWAY from direct heat. 8" with 2" of kaowool per side is too small for even knives. You simply can't avoid hot spots. 8" with even 1" of kaowool would even be too small in my opinion. The pinned threads are awesome resources. Here's another recent (horizontal) WIP by Daniel Cauble: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=31716&view=getnewpost The one thing you'll notice on all the effective ones is a larger diameter tank. I think the water heater tank is as small as I
  6. Very nice!! The video was as helpful as all the pictures combined .
  7. Hey Daniel! Nice build!! Just out of curiosity, where did you get your thermocouple?
  8. I do this stuff for a living, and spend on abrasives probably 5x what I spend on steel, lol . If it weren't for the cost of belts and sandpaper (I only use Rhynowet, too!), I'd have almost no overhead!
  9. Right Luke, lol? i've got two modified drawings of my own design that are TOTALLY inspired by these. One of these days I will seriously get around to doing them. I have two 1" W1 rods that have been earmarked for them since I first saw the drawings .
  10. Thank you Dan! I'm not sure what you mean by 'changing section'? Unless you mean the spacers? If so, that's one of my favorite parts as well .
  11. Looks, interesting...lol.
  12. Hello David! WIll you be doing bringing it along on this post? Or making one of your own? If you do your own, would you be kind enough to post the link here for us? Thanks!!
  13. Thanks Miles!! They actually both have the same wrought iron for spacers...but I know which one you mean .
  14. Thanks Wes!! My style was actually inspired by a single trio of knives, that I first saw in 2010. They were made by a gentleman on this board by the name of Matt Venier. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17172 You can see some similarities, though mine were always my own . Those three are still some of the most beautiful kitchen knives I've ever seen.
  15. Thanks!! The spine is 2.55mm (.100") at the ferrule. The grind isn't convex, though it is lightly convexed at the last 7mm (roughly .25") before the edge. To put this knife into perspective, the thickest part of the knife at mid blade is 1.39mm (.054"). The balance point is at 1cm (a bit less than a half inch) forward of the heel. Thank you!! The kitchen knife market is incredibly competitive lol, luckily my sense of aesthetics seem to be relatively well received . The performance doesn't seem to hurt much either . Thanks Alan!! Both knives are very, very comfortable in any s
  16. In addition to the above knife, I'd also like to share the knife I finished prior to this one. 185mm Ko-gyuto (little chef's knife), in Aldo's W2, with stabilized black mango, nickel silver, and 165yr old wrought iron. And again the choil, to give an overall feel for the thickness. The thickest part of this knife is just in front of the ferrule, at 1.73mm (which is a little less than .070". Thank you everyone for looking .
  17. So! I haven't posted a new 'Show and Tell' thread in a few years now I think...so I figured it was time . First, a 270mm 'gyuto-hiki' (cross between a chef's knife and a slicing knife) in Aldo's W2, with stabilized buckeye burl, 165yr old wrought iron, and reclaimed copper water piping from the nearly 100 year old high school I attended. A shot of the choil (edge up) so you can get a feel for the thickness (or lack of, lol) of the blade. And with my fourth ever leather saya. .
  18. Love those! I use vernier's...but it eventually ruins them (not to mention they get dull and the mark begins to suck lol). Those other two little tools are freakin wonderful. You could mark your flattened bolt (I have a small block Ford head bolt that will do beautifully!) with hash marks to get you in the 1mm or 1/32" ballpark area as well. Thanks for sharing!
  19. Best news I've heard all day . Just ordered a bunch of 7/8" rod from David at Globe Elevator. It's nice to know I can work it yellow to get my shape, then lower the heat and beat it up a bit to break it apart some lol. Thanks for the tip Alan!
  20. Haha, I'm not up to smelting yet!! Though eventually one day I might. The Globe Elevators thing might work. I need it for kitchen knife spacers, so 1" rounds would be perfect. I don't think the phosphorous would be an issue as I don't forge it much anyhow, just enough to give it some cracks in the grain...so that would probably work the best regardless. Here's an example of the kind of use it's being put to: That's the 165yr old wagon tire stuff. It gets shaped with the handle, so it's difficult to etch (at best!) once it's finished. Ferric chloride does ugly things to beaut
  21. Thanks! Wrought and birch bark will be stunning together . A quick side question...where are you guys finding your wrought? I've been keeping my eye out but so far all I've gotten is these few pieces of wagon wheel, and they were a gift from a mentor. I would think here in Arizona there'd be boatloads of the stuff, lol....but I'm really not sure where to go about looking.
  22. Yep...hot hot hot as these guys said. I don't forge wrought below a middle orange, unless I'm wanting to add cracks into the material for character. Like this: The palm swell is forged 165yr old or so wagon wheel wrought iron, and when I made it (this was my fourth knife) my forge wouldn't GO over a middle orange heat lol. Luckily cracked and old is what I was going for, so it worked out.
  23. A few of my recent pieces . 270mm wa sujihiki, with musk ox, Oregon maple burl, and 5460yr old bog oak. I have better pictures of this knife somewhere, but I can't seem to find them. 265mm wa gyuto. 265mm wa gyuto, with black dyed Hawaiian mango, and reclaimed copper piping spacers. 280mm wa sujihiki. The handle was actually made by a good friend of mine named Mikey Riggen in Hawaii. Another wa sujihiki with a Mikey Riggen handle. This time with mammoth ivory and bog oak. The knife is 300mm long. 185mm ko-gyuto with more of the dyed Hawaiian mango, nickel si
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