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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. That looks great! How thick is it on the spine? How thick 1/2" up from the edge? One thing for future kitchen knives...is to move the hamon up to at least half the blade width. As knives get sharpened they lose height, and eventually become useless once you get out of the hardened steel . Overall though, nice work!
  2. If you're truly curious, my suggestion would be to send a small piece out for analysis. The main reason being that it's probably got a lot of alloying elements in it, and this is what determines soak time and temperature. I mean, my W2 has very little in regards to alloying elements...the most significant being a bit of chromium and vanadium...and I still soak it for 10-15 minutes at 1700 during my first thermal cycle post forging. This is the first step in refining not just the grain structure, but the carbide structure (assuming it has enough carbon for carbide formation) as well. Anyhow, i
  3. Correction...it took about half an hour lol. Still...that was cutting 7" x 3.5". http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=11492
  4. The second time I needed my 7"x3.5" forklift tine anvil cut...no flame cutters in my area would touch it. I found a vuy with a bandsaw that did it for me. The first time...I used a demo saw. I was only cutting across the piece and it STILL took forever. I used a garden hose to keep it cool. Kenon...going long ways down that thing is gonna be a BEAR lol.
  5. In for this one. I have a piece that's similar...only it's about 11"x3.5" and only maybe 26" tall. No clue what it was...I dug it up half buried in a dirt mound in a rock quarry. Threw it in the back of my truck and took it home lol.
  6. Excellent points Kevin!! My suggestion is to go even thinner...even if you must do so in the grinding stages. My knives are forged to approximately 1/8" (actually 3.5mm or so...I do everything on kitchen knives in metrics...lol) on the spine, and 2mm on the edge. I then heat treat, remove any warpage, and do my final grinding and then polishing. Most of my knives are sub 2mm on the spine (some approaching 1mm, and just over 2mm tops at the thickest part of the blade. Distal taper is important for blade utility, but ultimately, for kitchen use...thin knives cut. If the OP doesn't mind...I'l
  7. Jake nailed it. A smooth continuous line from tip to tail is visually important to me...and the shorter handle is perfect.
  8. Well...it looks definitely usable as/is. For me...on a dropped point with a curved spine like that...I like a matching drop in the tang as well. I think that alone would be a huge improvement in the look. Hope that helps!
  9. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWPRWYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the kind I've used to good effect in my shop. They wear out of course...I just got new in to replace the one in my oven. But they do work.
  10. Very nice! What temp do you normally forge weld at? I have the same pyrometer btw...works beautifully in my heat treat oven, and I can move it around the shop with ease to verify temps elsewhere.
  11. New profile is much better...though I personally prefer a much flatter edge section, and tapping it down would also bring the bulge out of the nose. That said...that's how I make kitchen knives. You should make it your own way . There is room in the world for round bellies with a santoku style nose. My personal feeling is that there's more utility in flatter edge profiles...but if this works for you, run with it. I really need to get off my rear and do some tool building lol. I've been considering doing some stainless/carbon san mai and making an integral out of it...and a tool like that i
  12. Nevermind lol...I missed your previous post with your times. Are you determining temps by color and the look of any flux you're using?
  13. A few things...if you'd like some direction. For a kitchen knife...you want thin. For a heavy use type kitchen knife (meaning chopping through bones etc) it doesn't have to be crazy thin...but in food preparation, thin will always outperform thick. Your blade profile including the handle is very suitable for a hunting/camp type knife...but probably not so much for a kitchen type utensil. For work on a cutting board you need room for your middle, ring, and pinky fingers to grip the handle, and still clear the board. If you plan to push cut, you will also need a flat edge from the heel to a
  14. I'm very very interested in carbon stainless laminates. Would you mind sharing what temps and soak times you used for the welds? I have the general process down, but specifics on a place to start always help lol.
  15. Very nice! Are you forging that rail clip by hand? If so...you're a brave man lol. I have two crates full of the things and have done plenty of work with them. Breaking them down is a bear lol. Also...in case you didn't know...they are basically 1060. We had one of mine analyzed a few years back. When I get home I'll post the analysis if you like. The good thing about that is that 1060 is easy to work, and very easy to heat treat. It sharpens very easily and produces a tough blade. The main drawback is the lack of final hardness, and reduced edge holding. For the twist...I would bring
  16. No worries at all. As I said, I do pretty much higher end Japanese style chef's knives exclusively. If I can help in any way I'm more than happy to.
  17. Love the forgework! I've been doing some forged finish hunting knives here recently, and I have to say I genuinely love the style .
  18. This has been a great thread already. I'm the one that set Caleb up with his first forge...and this is an upgrade I'm very interested in as well. I use two burners instead of one (plumbing torches also), and my forge gets plenty hot for forge work...but it falls short on welding. I'm considering a larger mail box or air tank forge (already have the air tank built...just need to setup burners)...and upgraded burners are mandatory. Thanks for the idea gentlemen, and thanks for bringing the post up Caleb!
  19. Anytime, and absolutely on the questions! I do use W2, but only soak for 6 minutes before my final hardening. The 2hr soak at 1250°F absolutely removes the hardness. It's after this that I do the bulk of my grinding. The quick (yes, 2hrs is quick for this process) spheroidization soak doesn't do anything for hypoeutectic steels, but for steels over 1080 it does wonderful things with the carbides (assuming you have any alloying elements at all). Picture it like this...instead of having hard interlocked carbides all over, I have very refined, very hard, round carbide formations very evenly i
  20. Hey Wes! No...it ramps up relatively quickly for the mass now (which is not to say 'fast'...but rather, 'fast enough'!!)...but even better, with all that mass...it holds temp REALLY well. I don't thermal cycle with three standard normalization cycles...so it's tough to say as far as that goes. I do what's called a spheroidization cycle. Forge to shape, finishing with lower heats...then cycle at 1700°F for 10 minutes, 1600°F for 10 minutes, and 1500°F for 10 minutes, and quench. After that I cook it for 2hrs at 1275°F. I generally do batches of knives at a time when I can...as it's a huge tim
  21. Thanks lol! I've had a few problems here and there with it since. The biggest being the durability of the fuse holder (they melt, and burn up fuses). After that would be thermocouple calibration...but I just stack a couple pennies on shelves down the length of the kiln, and wait to see what temperature they begin to droop at. Zinc melts at (if i recall) 787°F, and its easy enough to extrapolate an accurate temperature at higher numbers from that. Otherwise, it's been really useful .
  22. Great post!! I'll add the link to my personal experience as well . http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26893
  23. My hunting gear: Both are Aldo's W2 and hand forged to shape (as you can see with the hunting knife). The broadhead is a prototype...and if it lives through destructive testing, will be part of a matched set of probably six. Both are absolutely working gear...meant to be abused in the field. Thanks for looking!
  24. Thank you my friend!! I finally got out into the shop yesterday and forged out a blank from W2. I had ordered a few different types of adapter ferrules to try out, and wanted something ready made for when they get here. The main problem I'm having is that the thing is HEAVY. As in...327 grain heavy at this point...with no adapter! I can probably lose 25-30 grain with cutting in the edge, as well as the tanto tip...but the ferrule weight will just push it back up to the same weight range again. Final specs are 1.125" cut diameter, and just shy of 3" edge length (once the tanto tip is cu
  25. That's an interesting post...I never thought to just use straight acid to etch a mark. I use a salt water etching method that works very, very well. As a matter of fact, I believe the tutorial is still up in the fit and finish section. Yep, here it is! http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=17602 If you have access to any form of positive and negative electricity (even a 9v battery from my understanding!), I'm betting you'll have much better results with the salt water. Give it a try and let us know how it compares for you?
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