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C.Anderson

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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. Good looking knives my friend!! On your chef's knife...how thick is it at about 1/2" up from the edge? Chefs definitely want thin, but even a knife with a zero edge can wedge in food (try gently slicing acorn squash with a high nicu katana lol). If it's around or under .05" or so...you're in a reasonably good spot.
  2. Look what I found Ray!! I was doing some research on the chisel tip angle, and found an old thread where you were discussing a young man named Allen and his ability to pack away all you can eat ribs, lol. Its funny...but as big as the internet is, it really is a small, small world when you break it up into interests .
  3. Thanks, I'll definitely do that Bruce. The steel will likely be W2, since that's the thinnest stock I have to start with. Or I may just end up ordering some .070" 1095 from Aldo. Guess we'll see .
  4. So, I've managed to get a wooden mock up made. I think these will be a good bit easier than I was originally anticipating. My only fight will probably be warping in the quench, lol. I'm hoping tip down, with a smooth immersion into the quenchant will help fight that some though. 1 1/8" cut diameter x 3 3/16" long from tip to the heel of the cutting edge. I haven't determined the final weight yet, but I'm figuring a solid 150g would work. The lightest arrow design requires 150g, but one of the designs I've laid out calls for 250g on the tip. I figure I can make that up with a footed shaft
  5. To better illustrate what I'm looking at making, it'll be something like a cross between the above posted broadhead, and this one: The skirt will be brought down some to extend the length, as well as lengthening the tip a bit. I'll probably curve the cutting edge a tiny bit for aesthetics (similar to the first broadhead I posted, but not that aggressive a curve), but I'm aware that the angle of the cut is important, and the curve widens it. I'm thinking somewhere between 1 1/8", to 1 3/16" for the cut diameter...and a minimum of 2.5" of cutting edge. Depending on the ferrules I can ge
  6. Thank you for sharing your wisdom! I actually prefer the idea of a heavier arrow, though not quite one that's up to Dr. Ashby's 600g specification. The above lightweight arrow listed also has 25% FOC, which is a good bit higher than most setups I see. If I were to utilize the same setup on my 436g arrows, the FOC drops to 21%...which I think is still respectable. I had also planned on increasing the length to width ratio some as well...again, possibly not as high as 3:1...but surely close. That's one of the reasons I'm doing this. The ferrule on those blades will hold my replacements nicely, a
  7. I'm shooting for 150-160g. This allows me to use a 40-50g outsert to put me right on the nose at 200g on the head. Overall arrow weight should be 355g, with a 26" ATA length (nock to outsert), totaling a 27.5" overall length. FOC will be right around 25%, which should help arrow flight and penetration tremendously. I tune my compounds very tightly. Centershot is centershot, and my bare shafts group with my broadheads and field points up to 60yds. Here's a couple pictures illustrating my arrow/bow build...the spine requirements (300 spine), and the actual spine of my chosen arrow: This pa
  8. Good to know Gary! In a way, broadhead spin and weight is even more critical out of a 300fps + bow. Yes, there's more power to propel it, but the spine of the arrow has to be dead on because of that...and arrow flight can differ greatly with any change in profile or thickness. Slower bows are more forgiving of arrow flight in many ways, due to the lesser amount of resistance to forward motion. I'm shooting for +/- 1g on my heads...and will have a precise template for profile. As for the bows now though, you're 150% correct! My bow now will put a 350g arrow out at around 300fps...and the ne
  9. I'm looking at doing something like these...only unvented, and without the bleeders: I've found single bevels to be devastating to game, and would probably be using these existing ferrules to adapt my blades to the arrows.
  10. I'm considering making my own broadheads this year. They will mount to an existing ferrule which will screw into my carbon arrows. I'm fully capable of the forge/grinder work, but I'm wondering if any of you have any tips or tricks that may ease the process? Also, most broadheads you find online are in the 48-52HRC range. Do any of you have any experience with differing levels of hardness in your own broadheads? Obviously too hard wouldn't be very bright...but with a good .070" thick blade, I'd think there would be plenty of support for as much as 58HRC on the edge for a single bevel, doule ed
  11. Most folders have a similar design. Making one as an exact copy of another maker's knife to sell to someone else however...is unethical in my eyes. Now, buying a knife from another maker, and making a replacement blade would be fine, as long as you didn't claim credit for the entirety of the project. Some makers might even be willing to sell you unfinished knives for you to put your blades in. I think that's getting a bit off of your topic though. The thing about it is...most of us go through a learning curve when we start into a new area of work. Those learning curve blades aren't always par
  12. For me...I don't know that I'd be comfortable outright copying and selling anyone's design to be honest. If a person wanted a one off knife by me, but loved that design...maybe...but I'd leave my mark off of it (to keep others from asking me to replicate it again)...and would never otherwise do something like that. For me, a person making one copy of my work could be taken as a compliment. Anything more than that would feel disrespectful. I'm not sure if you meant your question the way it sounds, so please don't take my reply wrong.
  13. A couple of my recent hamon: 310mm sujihiki. 270mm sujihiki.
  14. That's a very, very interesting forge and burner design! Bookmarking this for future reference.
  15. Hey there!! A couple things... First, excellent sketches! Second...for my clarification...what is the overall length of the knife (I'm guessing 240mm based off the scale?)...and at what distance from the tip are you looking at hitting the .8mm mark? It looks like approximately 40mm if your drawing is to scale (based off the middle picture, and your 'edge' being 10mm), and if so...that might be a bit too thin for tip durability. I would go no less than .6mm 1cm from the tip...and prefer a bit more in my own knives. As for your edge...the .8mm thick 1cm up from the cutting edge is reasonab
  16. It's Cris . I don't mind btw...but I wanted to catch you so you didn't feel silly when you realized you'd been calling me by the wrong name for however long, lol. That's a good site to go by. Many times knives blur the lines. For example, I make a ko-gyuto. Basically a santoku length gyuto (180mm), full heel height (50mm/2"). It's a popular knife. I also make a 'gyuto-hiki'...which is a short heeled (30mm-40mm) slicing knife, but with a more gyuto'ish' edge length/profile (210mm+) and tapering spine profile. A lot of guys love them. In my experience, a gyuto is defined by being sort of
  17. Santoku can be as thin as a gyuto. It's more of a profile difference than anything else. What part of the profiling is giving you trouble? Is it difficult because of the san mai?? Working in monosteel, they're pretty basic. If it were mine to do... ...and I wanted a gyuto out of it, I'd hammer the edge up until it matched the heel (there should be a less than 1mm upsweep from about 1cm from the heel, no more), then profile it all out again. I would bring the tang up until it followed the line of the spine (it should rise at an angle to the board). From there, draw out the length to the
  18. Looks good! That profile would be more of a santoku though . What are you mainly going to use it for?
  19. The snakewood. It's really a stellar pair of scales...and I think it could do the knife justice...but vicious, brooding, capable, gloom and doom bog oak is still in the front of my mind!
  20. So, I figured I'd add my first leather sheath to the mix as well, lol. First leather anything actually. ] Ignore the handle, its temporary, stuck on with spray adhesive, and literally made from a 2x4 (dyed it with the leather dye lol)…so I can easily test different shapes for comfort. But the knife and sheath are pretty much done. I still have to seal the sheath (going to use beeswax), and of course finalize a set of handle scales…but otherwise that's it. This is my first ever leatherwork‬...and since I want to carry this knife every day, I decided on 6oz leather for a slimmer ove
  21. Excellent!! I just did my first leather sheath last night...so if you need any help, by all means send me a PM. The main things I'd suggest are measure at least three times, use a good glue first (some of the glues are almost as good as stitching as it is!), and a quality overstitch wheel for your stitch holes. I used a set of calipers as a scribe to draw out the lines for my stitches, but a leather groover would certainly be better. Other than that, mine went well. Oh, one other thing...depending on what you're going to seal the sheath with, its a good idea to carefully seal the inside befo
  22. There is no measurable amount of austenite left at the cutting edge in W2, after hardening. As far as having the carbides within the grain boundaries, or not...I'm guessing that there wouldn't be a lot of change in the aggressiveness of cutting. However...there are substantial...measurable changes in toughness as you said, as well as edge holding...since your edge won't be prone to microchipping from carbide fallout. Your very hard carbides are very fine, and are no longer sitting within the grain boundaries where they would weaken the edge. Imagine it like a stone wall. You want all o
  23. Thank you! I'm glad my tutorial could help you out!! On the handle thing, do you mean this model? If so, I think that's way too much handle for this knife...for a couple reasons. First, about 3/4" of the butt needs to remain exposed. Because of this...if the handle extends too far into the finger choil...it'll look unbalanced. This can be mitigated by narrowing the scales some, allowing them to be longer without causing too much visual imbalance. For a full height tang, it leaves me a really narrow window for the handle to look 'right'. That said, I'm definitely wanting to get
  24. Thank you gentlemen!! For what it's worth, I agree completely on the scales. The main reason I drew them up this way specifically was so that it was clear in pictures that they weren't the full height of the tang. My initial plan was actually to make it so only the rounded and polished areas protruded from the profile of the scales, but that didn't show well in the pictures. That said, I like the idea Jake suggested, of halving the width of the exposed flats by about 50% (as opposed to either as drawn above, or only leaving the polished area exposed). That gives me the rebate I want, and
  25. A few more handle options! Claro Walnut Spalted Oregon Maple Koa Keep in mind, these are actual pieces of wood I have onhand...so I can get the wood to look VERY close to the pictures...as far as figure and color goes. What's each of your favorite?
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