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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. Thanks guys! On the handle...this is a rough approximation of what I'm thinking (I used bog oak for the example wood). The contours will be different...this is just a faceted 'bevel/emboss' filter in Photoshop, but the profile of the scale and 3D effect of the filter gives you a general approximation. It doesn't look too bad! I'd play with it a little of course, on the knife...but in the end that may work. Domed nickel silver pins to match the polished contours of the spine and grip would top it off wonderfully. Now...to see if I can pull it off lol. I've literally never done sca
  2. Very good (on the second shot, lol)...except that I do in fact use clay. I want the hardening line on the butt to get progressively narrower towards the bottom, and clay is the only guaranteed way to control the placement. Thank you for the compliments as well . It's always nice, and often surprising to me to hear that others appreciate my aesthetic sense. Almost as surprising as it is every time I'm able to realize a knife that expresses it properly .
  3. As for the handle materials...I don't have stag...though I thought about it. I like the idea of the bog oak as well, though even stabilized it's a very brittle wood to work with. The claro walnut is classic...and if i do it right the 'shotgun butt' look could finish off the knife well. The snakewood is just flat gorgeous, and the nice warm, deep red tones of it would be classy also. I'm just not sure yet. Here's a piece of that walnut with a light, 600 grit pass on the grinder to show the figure: And here's a few other pieces. That black dyed mango was a thought as well, but i
  4. Thank you gentlemen! Caleb, all of my EDC type knives with this profile handle have hardened butts as well: That's my other personal knife . As far as the how...tell me how you think you would do it if I asked you to as a customer, and then I'll tell you how I actually did it .
  5. So, I've been immersed in kitchen knives for months and months now, lol. Part of my making process involves thermal cycling the forged and cleaned up blade blanks in a controlled round of heats, that ends with a through hardening and spheroidized anneal for 2hrs at a much lower temperature. The last batch I have been working on ended up being 18 knives in total (I tossed a couple kiridashi and EDC knives in there for Christmas gifts). Needless to say, thermal cycling 18 knives was a bit time consuming, so...in between I decided to make a knife for myself out of Aldo's oldest run of W2
  6. Love it . Nice and thin behind the edge, with a great edge profile for push cutting. Beautiful work!
  7. Looks great! Just out of curiosity, what's your thermal cycle and heat treating process? The reason I ask is that I use only W2...thermal cycled and hardened in an oven, then tempered at 375°F-400°F (which puts it at 64-65HRC), and it generally won't take me 4-5hrs to grind a full sized gyuto (210-270mm...or 8"-12") from heat treat thickness, to a .1mm (.003") edge. From there I polish by hand to the edge thickness I like to sharpen at. I'm thinking the problem is that you're using your belts to the point where you're simply polishing, lol. I know they can get expensive, but fresh belts cut c
  8. You've received a lot of great advice, and I like all of it. I think the contrasting red can be made to work, though I'd perhaps thin it some. The reason your drawing looks awkward to you with a straight line from the handle through the guard to the blade, is that the blade is so very straight before it hits the clip, and the handle is so very straight after. Most design classes will teach that almost everything looks better if it's got a slight angle, or curve, or some subtle variation in line from truly straight. The same can be said of equal balance. A perfect mirror balance side to side f
  9. That sounds like an excellent plan . And, your two knives really are beautiful, as Wes said...you've got a great start! I can't wait to see where you go with it!
  10. Very nicely done! What's out of balance on the second one is the line of the spine where it transitions to the blade. VERY few knife designs pull off a broken line there successfully. I can't even think of a single one off the top of my head...but I know there's a couple. On the forge thing, depending on what you're looking to make...a cylinder is much more efficient than a box. My main working forge for bladesmithing is a paint can, and my second one is a cut up 7gal air tank. I'm considering making a replacement for my paint can out of a mail box...but we'll see. The theme though is a cy
  11. I'm incredibly happy with my Pheer 454. I believe the url is www.2x72grinder.com. Jose is a great guy, and the parts used are top notch. The flat platen is compatible with all KMG accessories (radius platens, chillers, etc all bolt right on). One thing I would not do is skip the variable speed. The things I am able to do now that I was unable to before are incredible...and the learning curve is much less steep due to being able to slow the grinder down to a crawl when trying new methods. Anyhow, that's my vote. The price to quality ratio is the highest I've seen among the currently market
  12. I don't do Damascus at all, lol...so I'll leave that to others. But for a second knife both the Damascus and overall blade look great! One thing I do know however, is kitchen knives! As a knife for kitchen use...I have two concerns, and one suggestion based on a guess. First, there doesn't seem to be a lot of knuckle clearance. Most chefs use a pinch grip (first finger and thumb on the blade, handle held loosely in the remaining three fingers), but there still as to be room for the other fingers when the heel is contacting the board. The above brings me to my next concern. The first roug
  13. I would not sand the guard. It fits the rest of the knife as/is. On the warped blade...you should be straightening after/during tempering anyhow, so I'm not sure where the issue with straightening is coming from. I ONLY straighten blades at tempering temperature. I've snapped too many to take the chance of cold straightening anymore lol. As I said on Instagram, this blade is by FAR the most balanced visually I've seen you make. You should absolutely be proud! I can't see the thickness of the blade, but it doesn't look too thin to me. Most newer makers make the mistake of making blades far
  14. So, I've been trying and trying to upload a video of this knife I took awhile back, to help show the hamon a bit better, but apparently 'paste' is a command I either have no mastery of, or the forum simply refuses to recognize. That said, I finally figured out how to get youtube to give me a short url, so I'm just going to type it in manually. I'd like to embed it...but if I can't even paste, I'm thinking embedding will be all but impossible. As always guys...thanks for looking, and thanks for the compliments and commentary ETA ~ Oh hey...look! It embedded on its own! Nice!
  15. On a side note...Glen from GS Tongs makes some really nice hammers, of all types. Being a smith the faces are dressed pretty much perfectly when you get them. You may end up modifying it once you know what you like, but until then...you won't get a much better start. You can google the name in order to find him.
  16. Try that with the rail hammer Vaughn...you might just be surprised . One thing I'd like to note about handles...is that they do need some give to them. When I was a kid I did some framing for my uncle. I showed up to work with a shiny new Estwing framing hammer. You know, the all steel kind with the rubber handle? Anyhow...I was laughed off the jobsite. Literally. My uncle made me leave and told me not to come back until I had a hammer that wouldn't kill my elbow. The same goes for forging hammers. That's why I hollow the necks of all of my handles, to absorb shock by letting the handle f
  17. Hello Jan! I supplied them with a digital image. They made a vector graphic out of it which can be scaled up or down pretty much infinitely. If you can get a clean image for them, they'll tell you what they can do with it.
  18. Chris, I'd possibly be interested in a version of Sam's hammer. Or better, some detailed pictures and/or plans. I can get scrap steel at $.050/lb out here...in both structural and solid form...so it'd be easier to just build it myself .
  19. Strange that I didn't get notification of these replies! I'm really glad that this was able to help some of you guys out. I also think that my charger got left out in the rain a number of times before I picked it up (it was outdoors at my dad's house). It only works at all on one setting, and that's the 50amp one. It makes a bit of a racket while doing so as well, lol. I've been meaning to pick up something else...I just haven't gotten around to it yet, as this still does work very well. Makes me a little nervous though...every time I use it, lol. For those of you having issues wit
  20. Subscribing. I'll probably end up building a modified tire/Appalachian style hammer. Somewhere in the 50lb range would probably do nicely for me. I still need to build a press as well, lol. So many tools, so little money!
  21. Excellent topic!! I'll attach some pictures of my go to hammer at the bottom. As far as weight, I like anywhere from 2.5lbs, to 4lbs or so. My current main use hammer is just under 4lbs, and I have a second and third of the exact same design (with different face profiles) at 2.75lbs, and 1.5lbs respectively. I also very much prefer forward weight hammers!! When I first started forging, I was using a 3lb double jack type mini sledge. Basically a general use hammer that I'd dressed the face on. It worked, but it wasn't anything to talk about. When I made my first forward weight hammer however,
  22. Thanks Dave! And you bet...thin is the trick . I like the Yakuza thing by the way...lol.
  23. Thank you Allen! It's really, really hard for me to capture the hamon on these. The contrast in the pictures is only one face. Kind of like a candid snapshot of a beautiful girl. You get that moment...not her smile, her voice, and all the other aspects of what make her really beautiful. At every angle there is something else to see. Every time I look at them it's kind of hypnotizing, lol. The difference in color is absolutely there, but as you turn them, there is a tight, undulating silver ribbon of habuchi that you can barely see in these pictures. It shows stark white...like white gold a
  24. Thank you! Aldo's W2 is pretty great stuff for hamon...and lucky for me, if you treat it right, it makes for excellent sharpness and edge retention as well. All benefits in a good kitchen knife .
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