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Everything posted by C.Anderson

  1. Looks pretty good for your first kitchen type profile Caleb . A couple of suggestions though, if you'd like! First, I wouldn't put any sort of ricasso on it, unless its very high up the choil. The heel is a performing part of a good kitchen knife (think about slicing THROUGH something, and it makes sense)...and while some types have a thicker choil, most chefs I know today prefer the geometry to be maintained all the way through the heel. Remember, any real thickness in a kitchen blade will almost always cause wedging. Second, I'd work a little bit on finishing your bolster area pr
  2. Definitely overheating. However, do NOT redo the heat treat!! As Alan said, its small area, and will sharpen out naturally with use. On a side note, my fsvorite handle for a Forgecraft is a wa (Japanese) style octagonal. They really fit the blade profile well .
  3. Knives like this aren't meant to be used all day. It would absolutely be a beautiful, functional display in a rustic kitchen. Not to mention a wonderful every day prep knife for the old cowboy cooking in that kitchen. Nicely done .
  4. Nice craftsmanship, and gorgeous hamon!! If I were to try to give some constructive criticism...and was forced to pick something I would change...the only thing I could come up with is that I'd thin it out behind the edge. I like my edges about .5mm thick (or a bit thinner) behind my primary bevel...and right about 1mm thick when measured 1cm above the edge. I've made kitchen knives both ways, and the difference in how they cut is absolutely incredible. Again though, its a beautiful knife...and I'm sure your wife absolutely loves it!
  5. That's beautiful Jake. I don't have any input for you...but I'd like to follow along anyway .
  6. Love the 12" chef in maple as well, the lines are just right for my aesthetic lol. On the filework...it's very beautiful! Just make sure to round it all nicely, or you may have some complaints of discomfort to the middle finger from people who use them often (professional chefs). Overall beautiful work!
  7. The silica gel is a nice idea. I don't use home made clays, but I've found a rougher grit finish is very helpful.
  8. Love the lines! Beautiful, simple, clean, all add up to something greater than they'd be alone. I like it
  9. Yeah...loving the finish! Is it just a typical blacksmith's finish? Like beeswax applied while still hot from tempering?
  10. That...is a very good looking knife!
  11. As always I love the lines of your knives!! One question on this one...are you leaving the bolster alone (meaning square to the blade as it is in the photograph)? I notice in the drawing that it's rounded, and meets the edge at the choil/finger guard area. That seems a lot more natural to me.
  12. Great video Sam!! I loved the one on barrel making as well...incredible stuff. Thank you Alan!!...it seems brine is incredibly misunderstood as a quenchant these days. I use brine exclusively on any blade thicker (at quench) than 1/8". I have a few other particulars that determine if I choose it over the Parks 50 I have...but thickness is a major one, with length being the next thing to consider. I've used it with every steel I've ever played with, from Admiral 1075/1080, to W1, to Aldo's W2. Failure rate (meaning during the quench procedure prior to tempering) is som
  13. I ordered my Satanite years ago in a 50lb bag (do a google search, you'll find it in bulk for cheap)...but have recently begun using Rutlands, as its available at Ace Hardware and Home Depot. In general I prefer the Satanite, though some characteristics of the Rutlands are nice as well. The main reasons I'm teaching myself to use the Rutlands though is that the results are satisfactory, and its readily available locally. The main difference that I had to learn to overcome is that the Rutlands puffs up when you heat it (I don't have the patience to let the junk dry for however many days it take
  14. Nicely done! Thin is key when it comes to kitchen knives .
  15. That is a HUGE forge lol...I think your problem would be that in order to being it up to heat...you've got to saturate the thermal mass of the bricks. This would take a lot of fuel in that size chamber I think. I recently picked up a trashed 220v kiln, and built a http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26893'>110v electric heat treat oven out of it. It works very well, and heats very evenly. I built it for smaller blades (under 18" or so), and set it up so it can be stood on end for either vertical or horizontal use. Also, with the amount of bricks I had left over...I can easi
  16. Very nice! Out of curiosity, how thick is along the spine...and what kind of taper is there from the spine to the blade? I've really fallen in love with kitchen knives lately, and love seeing work from other makers in that area .
  17. I understand this...but the difference between a 60 Rockwell knife, and a 62 Rockwell file, to someone trying to file the knife with it...isn't going to be incredibly noticeable (at least it never has been for me). The main point in my post was that the edge should evenly either skate, resist, or be cut very slightly but evenly by a file. The actual hardness was only partially relevant. The type and intended usage of the knife will have more of an impact on the desired hardness than the fact that its a 'knife'
  18. Ok...a couple small things here. What hardness do you want this knife at? A properly heat treated knife will usually be harder than the file all along its length, or at the least nearly as hard. Either way the edge should either evenly skate the file, or the file should evenly bite. There should be no 'skating the file on some spots'. Either the blade is hardened and the file skates, or there are other things causing the file to skate here and there and the blade isn't properly heat treated. If you want to do justice to your grandfather's blade...I would highly suggest that you blunt the edge
  19. You can pass the blade back and forth through the hot spot to heat evenly. You don't have to just pull it through. Imagine trying to cook a sausage with a lighter. You wouldn't just heat it thoroughly one section at a time. You'd pass it over the flame end to end, rotating it until it was heated through, right? Well...your blade is the sausage, the flame is the forge. Pass the blade back and forth through the heat spine down (with the edge just within the coals) until the edge is just non-magnetic. When that happens, pull it out, flip it around edge down...and pass it back and forth a couple p
  20. I'm not sure what you mean by ash not letting it stand on edge? You should have a relatively deep bed of coals for heat treating. To be honest...you should for forging as well. But you need a bed to even out the heat during heat treating with the method I mentioned. Another method involves passing the spine through the hot part of the bed of coals until the edge comes to heat. If this is your bed of coals, you'd pass the spine through the middle/upper center portion of the coals until the edge EVENLY comes to the right temperature...then you flip it around for a couple passes.
  21. You couldn't reforge it without ruining the current heat treat regardless...so its good that you don't intend to . You could however, always grind some off of the edge side of the tang to narrow it if you wanted. A .75" stick tang in a 1"-1.25" oval shaped handle would be plenty strong I think, and you could keep still the octagonal if you wanted. Either way...good luck!
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