Jump to content

Kevin Colwell

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    4,804
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

Kevin Colwell last won the day on July 16

Kevin Colwell had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

140 Excellent

7 Followers

About Kevin Colwell

  • Rank
    Kevin Colwell
  • Birthday 08/17/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cheshire, CT
  • Interests
    Family (Wife and stepson) reading, Psychology, law, public policy (teaching people to get along, take care of one-another, and not destroy the planet in the process). Bladesmithing, Outdoors stuff of all types, esp. camping and ecology, exercise, cooking. Dogs and Cats.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,462 profile views
  1. yes, go get it. so to speak. Alan was correct regarding thickness. Forge to 3/8 and then grind 1/16th off to clean it up, leaving 5/16 at the ricasso. Even daos, which are light and 29" long, usually have almost 5/16 at the forte, and so do jians. It is a really common thing for a sword to be that thick and then taper down to just over .16" in the first 5 inches and then hold that for a span, and then taper again over the last 5 inches. That is for "cut-and-thrust" swords. Frequently end about or just below .125" Jians often end at .1 daos at .12" (so do messers). It is a good balance strat
  2. those will work great for ht furnaces. I like it!
  3. that is a great start. I am eager to see where it goes. Regarding larger heat treatment apparatus, I suggest either a barrel with a port in the bottom side and top middle and another hole on the top, opposite side, for hanging the blade in. The hole on the bottom is actually at the bottom of one side, not the true bottom of the barrel, so you can put a burner in. I use a 3/4" T-rex type. Line barrel with kaowool, all over the inside and put little wire loops to hold it. Takes about an hour to build, and if kept covered, will last almost forever. You have to put firebricks in the bottom to crea
  4. Jake - I agree with Alan, those are really a step above most work. I am impressed, and they will become heirlooms. Just what we want with our work. Nice ones.
  5. thanks for the info Alan wonderful to know.
  6. good results. I think the handle looks quite good, too. I have never etched anything electrically. I did buy a Chinese etching machine because the front was translated wrong so the knobs are called "tits." My etching machine has tits. Beat that.
  7. thanks for sharing the detail of your process. I enjoy it a lot. I have been in my, "clean shop" for months, polishing a katana and a guan dao, and I miss forging. I need to finish some hand work and then I can forge some more. The tiles in your "canoe" are cool. I thought you were going to cut angles on them and ferry flip them at first. Always amazes me when that many welds all set just right. I know they don't have much choice in the matter, but it is still always amazing.
  8. that is a great idea. nice work. I hope the issues got sorted out. The rose is a creative touch.
  9. put a t-section on it, and you could make a Khyber knife. Or, make a nagel, and go with the messer. They become a sword when you intend to use it to fight and kill another person, and they are so long that they aren't useful for anything but chopping people. If they can chop people and firewood, they are a machete or a bayonet or something. Just my thoughts. Around 20 inches.
  10. great score, indeed. People sometimes get all strange about this, but I like to use old files (disston, too) and make shop tools out of them. Chisels, gravers, punches, scrapers, etc. You can make all sorts of shop tools from old file stock and heat treat it yourself. kc
  11. that looks great. I don't usually get that much banding in W1. I love the knife, though. Just a comment. It looks awesome.
  12. yes, great work. the video was interesting, too. thanks a lot for sharing with us.
  13. this is an ambitious project. I am looking forward to it!
  14. love the work. I especially like the filet knife.
×
×
  • Create New...