Jump to content

Kevin Colwell

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Kevin Colwell last won the day on October 4 2020

Kevin Colwell had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

163 Excellent


About Kevin Colwell

  • Rank
    Kevin Colwell
  • Birthday 08/17/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Cheshire, CT
  • Interests
    Family (Wife and stepson) reading, Psychology, law, public policy (teaching people to get along, take care of one-another, and not destroy the planet in the process). Bladesmithing, Outdoors stuff of all types, esp. camping and ecology, exercise, cooking. Dogs and Cats.

Recent Profile Visitors

4,120 profile views
  1. Yes I have tried the full stock removal method for large knives. Never anything this large. It just doesn't seem efficient. Even if only doing the trick some factory knives that are "hand forged" do and just forge the distal tapers and call it done, then doing stock removal on the little hour-glass blob/sheet of metal that is produced by squashing both ends of a bar with a thickening toward the center. Even that is far easier than grinding in a good distal taper. For me. So... great work to achieve results that way. Trying that way is good. Now, you are sure as to why you like to f
  2. thanks for the detail Rob. That looks like a great working and playing tool. kc
  3. damn, new tools almost never work that smoothly. good job. I haven't checked in enough. I knew you mentioned making some folders when I said they were the one thing that intimidated me. I would remake the Sutton Hoo sword before I would make a slip-joint or lock back. More chance of getting it right, too (not necessarily a lot, but more). Looking forward to seeing what you make. Registration for Ashokan Sword is open. Register and come see us!
  4. I use the electric kiln for tempering and spheroidizing/annealing. The two make a good combination to get the various things done. You are right about decarb. I tested the edge of the sword, which I had draw filed after forging. The whole length of the edge was hard as glass. No decarb that I could notice, after three grain refinement cycles and a hardening cycle. Notice how uniform the color is. There is just a bit of decalescence or recalescence happening above the tip if you look. Just below the bold that holds the leg of the post vise to the arms.
  5. really nice, and I like the texture in the steel, the handle, and the shaping of the brass.
  6. It isn't really, "mounted." It is just pointed into a 2" square hole at the very bottom of the lid. Look at the pic of the barrel with a ladder in front of it. The burner is sitting on a firebrick and just slid a little into the kiln. Light it outside, aim to right, and slid it in some.
  7. burner is under the baffle, the temp probes and the sword hang in the top over the baffle. That way, only convection can heat the top part. Don Fogg, a long time ago, figured out that the top layer of air in a setup with the burner at one end and a port to put swords in through at the top of the same end would equalize well across the entire barrel. All I did was add baffles to his design, because in his there was often about 30F difference between the middle and the two ends of the barrel. I wanted to do better than that, so I added the baffle. It is just 3/32 mild. Actually, it has two plate
  8. Hello Everyone, So the idea for this kiln goes way back to Don Fogg on this forum and his old website. I was using a vertical barrel kiln for high temp heat treatment, and an electric evenheat for tempering and spheroidizing. I wanted a way to heat treat outside when quenching would happen, due to oil, flames, martempering with hot oil, etc. None of those things will happen in my basement. Well, I could not get the vertical barrel kiln to get closer than 40F top-to-bottom. No good when it is a 36" barrel and I am making 30" blades with tangs. Plus, I wanted a kiln
  9. Hello Everyone, My 15-year-old kid and I built a forge. It doesn't have any IHT or ITC or the like in it yet. Still, it easily gets up to 2200F. I took pictures at 1200C (2192F). Bottle with angle iron feet Pieces to mount burner and burner tube Drilling mounting brackets Tapping mounting tubing, but will also weld nuts on to give more thread and support. Forging/swaging little shims Shims holding mounting tubes in the the right places.
  10. A note of caution: I once bought a small forge body that I was to line myself. It was only 8" or so inner diameter. Unlined. I lined it with two inches of kaowool and sealed it with rigidizer, and then I put some satanite on it. The opening was about 4" when I was done. It never worked well, because there wasn't enough volume inside to trap the gasses/heat. You don't want to overdo this idea, but you do need a certain amount of volume to make sure you trap the heat in a gas forge. I am finishing one now from an old propane bottle with a kast-o-lite floor and 2" of kaowool wit
  11. and we are off... this will be a great one to watch
  12. hey Dave, creative and well executed. In the Chinese set of descriptors it would be a horse tooth, sanmai blade. Only, in Mandarin. I can't speak, or read, and don't plan to try. That deserves a special hilt. Have fun with it.
  13. that is really great. I am impressed. the blade and handle are both outstanding.
  14. yes, what Alan said. pretty
  15. that is a beautiful piece of steel, and the whole blade looks really good with the inlay and contrasts. Great work so far.
  • Create New...