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Kevin Colwell

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Everything posted by Kevin Colwell

  1. Yes I have tried the full stock removal method for large knives. Never anything this large. It just doesn't seem efficient. Even if only doing the trick some factory knives that are "hand forged" do and just forge the distal tapers and call it done, then doing stock removal on the little hour-glass blob/sheet of metal that is produced by squashing both ends of a bar with a thickening toward the center. Even that is far easier than grinding in a good distal taper. For me. So... great work to achieve results that way. Trying that way is good. Now, you are sure as to why you like to f
  2. thanks for the detail Rob. That looks like a great working and playing tool. kc
  3. damn, new tools almost never work that smoothly. good job. I haven't checked in enough. I knew you mentioned making some folders when I said they were the one thing that intimidated me. I would remake the Sutton Hoo sword before I would make a slip-joint or lock back. More chance of getting it right, too (not necessarily a lot, but more). Looking forward to seeing what you make. Registration for Ashokan Sword is open. Register and come see us!
  4. I use the electric kiln for tempering and spheroidizing/annealing. The two make a good combination to get the various things done. You are right about decarb. I tested the edge of the sword, which I had draw filed after forging. The whole length of the edge was hard as glass. No decarb that I could notice, after three grain refinement cycles and a hardening cycle. Notice how uniform the color is. There is just a bit of decalescence or recalescence happening above the tip if you look. Just below the bold that holds the leg of the post vise to the arms.
  5. really nice, and I like the texture in the steel, the handle, and the shaping of the brass.
  6. It isn't really, "mounted." It is just pointed into a 2" square hole at the very bottom of the lid. Look at the pic of the barrel with a ladder in front of it. The burner is sitting on a firebrick and just slid a little into the kiln. Light it outside, aim to right, and slid it in some.
  7. burner is under the baffle, the temp probes and the sword hang in the top over the baffle. That way, only convection can heat the top part. Don Fogg, a long time ago, figured out that the top layer of air in a setup with the burner at one end and a port to put swords in through at the top of the same end would equalize well across the entire barrel. All I did was add baffles to his design, because in his there was often about 30F difference between the middle and the two ends of the barrel. I wanted to do better than that, so I added the baffle. It is just 3/32 mild. Actually, it has two plate
  8. Hello Everyone, So the idea for this kiln goes way back to Don Fogg on this forum and his old website. I was using a vertical barrel kiln for high temp heat treatment, and an electric evenheat for tempering and spheroidizing. I wanted a way to heat treat outside when quenching would happen, due to oil, flames, martempering with hot oil, etc. None of those things will happen in my basement. Well, I could not get the vertical barrel kiln to get closer than 40F top-to-bottom. No good when it is a 36" barrel and I am making 30" blades with tangs. Plus, I wanted a kiln
  9. Hello Everyone, My 15-year-old kid and I built a forge. It doesn't have any IHT or ITC or the like in it yet. Still, it easily gets up to 2200F. I took pictures at 1200C (2192F). Bottle with angle iron feet Pieces to mount burner and burner tube Drilling mounting brackets Tapping mounting tubing, but will also weld nuts on to give more thread and support. Forging/swaging little shims Shims holding mounting tubes in the the right places.
  10. A note of caution: I once bought a small forge body that I was to line myself. It was only 8" or so inner diameter. Unlined. I lined it with two inches of kaowool and sealed it with rigidizer, and then I put some satanite on it. The opening was about 4" when I was done. It never worked well, because there wasn't enough volume inside to trap the gasses/heat. You don't want to overdo this idea, but you do need a certain amount of volume to make sure you trap the heat in a gas forge. I am finishing one now from an old propane bottle with a kast-o-lite floor and 2" of kaowool wit
  11. and we are off... this will be a great one to watch
  12. hey Dave, creative and well executed. In the Chinese set of descriptors it would be a horse tooth, sanmai blade. Only, in Mandarin. I can't speak, or read, and don't plan to try. That deserves a special hilt. Have fun with it.
  13. that is really great. I am impressed. the blade and handle are both outstanding.
  14. that is a beautiful piece of steel, and the whole blade looks really good with the inlay and contrasts. Great work so far.
  15. that is a beautiful knife, and he will treasure it. He should, anyway. It obviously has a lot of thought and love poured into it. I do prefer the thinner tail on the guard, but it is a balance. Some folks make the finger portion of the guard so thin and pointy I worry that it may hurt someone. I love this knife. I also love the sentiment/reason.
  16. great fortitude man. They look good but I realize it is tricky to get them just right. making scissors and the like is a zen thing, I think.
  17. nice work! interesting etching.
  18. 1. damn. 2. I am impressed with your smelting/hearth melting ability. very impressed. 3. Even with modern steels, I start with 8 or so pounds to get a 2 pound sword. That is because of the complex pattern welding. It always seems a shame, doesn't it? Like the old Bugs Bunny cartoon where big lathes were taking trees to make toothpicks. One tree = one toothpick. 4. I know that phosphorus adds contrast to wrought iron or bloomery steel. I seem to remember (sort of) that it can also cause some other properties, like hardness and brittleness. Are there any reasons / how do you work
  19. man - that is amazing work. Good to see/hear from you. I suggest making the repeating little voids a design element. Get an itty bitty drill and open them up. It would look really cool. Sure, the Vikings didn't have twist drills but they had spade drills and other shapes, and that is soft enough material that they could have drilled it. Either holes or inlays. I just had a gruesome thought seeing your spear beside the original. I have always found the shape that you made to be more visually pleasing. It just looks better to me. So, I was thinking (early morning, coffee and
  20. that is a great machine. It changes the scope of your work, immediately. I have used one of his presses for 10 years. Same one. The motor gives out about every 4 years. But, you can change it out in about 20 minutes. I built a little protective box to go over the motor since the ones on mine weren't tefc motors. Seriously, make some dies. Also, make some spacers, so you can get stock to consistent sizes as steps in the process. I use mine every time I forge, just about. Even for making a small knife. I have, about 3 years ago, built a tire hammer at one o
  21. damn Jake, that looks like the stuff Vince Evans used to turn out. That is about the highest compliment I can give for that sort of set.
  22. that is a clean blade, and the complex geometry is really cool. Great work.
  23. Alan beat me to it, the steel he suggested is perfect for what you want. I engraved the guandao after it was hardened and tempered, but I used carbide gravers and a steel handle. I also used a magnagraver and an airgraver. I tried everything to cut that stuff :)!
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