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Kevin Colwell

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Everything posted by Kevin Colwell

  1. [ alot of info about the quality of your heat treatment. OK, I had read about this test, but I had forgotten to ever try it. I am glad to hear you recommend it. I will give it a shot. I know that my early blades were not tempered well enough, and were too hard. (ok, they are all "early blades" at this point). I have only been testing with chainsaw files, and using color to assess temper. I am glad to have a more direct method. I will give it a try. All information such as this is welcomed. Kevin
  2. I have been etching them all to look for cracks and to check heat treat. I did sacrifice an early one to test flex, and it was way too hard. I used that info to start tempering longer and hotter. But no, not since that one. What is your rec on the best way to test the edge? thanks for looking, kevin
  3. It looks a little like an SOG knife that I saw on a WI-Vietnam edged weapons site. I like it, and I really like the pattern from the cable. Good stuff. kevin
  4. Hello All, This is my 7th, and is another chopper. Sort of a mini-machete. I wanted to see if I could reproduce the last design, only 25% larger. I am so new, that the idea of trying to produce very similar results in consecutive knives seemed challenging. Besides, I am giving the first on to a buddy, and I wanted one for myself. This one is about 25% larger, with a less acute edge bevel, and more of a convex shape to the edge. I forged the sweep into the blade instead of grinding it this time. It is thicker, has a very large tang peened through the handle, and feels really solid. 1095 blade and guard 11 inch blade, 4.5 inch handle Edge quenched in canola Tempered at 400F for 3 two-hour trials Polished to 1000 grit Mokume gane butt cap Rosewood and leather handle This was a lot of fun, and it was the first time I got to use my new Drill Press! This is also the limit of blade length that I can heat treat with my single-burner Venturi forge. I had to try and harden twice – the first time I did not heat consistently. It was really pushing it. I am going to spend some time learning the basics, and how to forge weld. Then, I will want to get a heat-treat setup for longer pieces, after I have learned enough basics to make working on them worthwhile. Please give me your comments. The knowledge, support and feedback I receive from this group means a lot to me. Thanks for looking, Kevin
  5. that is the nicest thing I have ever seen made from a rr spike! good imagination and technique. kevin
  6. Jared, It looks like it has potential. Of course, I am not an expert, just an enthusiast. Still, if you can grind well already, you are "in there" with this one. (I love forging - I hate grinding). How you gonna heat treat it - i.e., what do you use? I need to think about building something to heat treat larger stuff. I just treated a 12" version of the "chopper" (like the last one, 25% larger in all directions). I need to decide on a mechanism to treat longer stuff. I hope to try things like what you are making now in about 6 or 8 months. good work. Please keep posting so we can see it develop. Kevin
  7. I agree. that would be worth the money and effort to stabilize, even though it is probably pretty tough. Nice job on the knife, too. kevin
  8. that is a truly attractive pattern. good stuff. kevin
  9. Good work! It is a good thing to show your own development, and to demonstrate not taking yourself too seriously. I like the knife and hawk. Keep showing your stuff, and keep the playful manner. Kevin
  10. I like it! I can see some of the hamon, if not as clear as I would like. I may be wrong, but in the picture it looks like a small corner of the tang sticks out past the scales in the back. If that's really there, then you should smooth it over (file, grind... whatever is best). If it is not really there, then I am sorry. Either way, I like the shape of the blade. Please keep showing your work. Kevin
  11. good looking knife. it is solid looking. this has me wondering if I want to use my NEW DRILL PRESS to do a full-tang with pins. I love archery, too. I had to decide between being a bladesmith or boyer. No time for both. You got the right idea, learn one well and trade when you need the other! kevin
  12. Wade, I like the pattern, and the dye job on the handle is really good. Nice combo. kevin
  13. that is a really elegant little knife. minimalist, and everything on it seems "just so." good job, thanks for showing it. kevin
  14. Jesus, that is a wonderful piece of art (bet it cuts good, too!). Seriously, that is inspirational for us new folks, and just plane beautiful. kevin
  15. Hey, those are great for beginning. For what it's worth, I have little patience for finishing, too. I have found that working to keep a uniform pattern of scratches really improves the overall appearance (run paper from ricasso to tip or stroke entire length of blade across paper for the last polishing step). I agree that function is most important, so work to make sure that the handles feel good, there are no sharp corners anywhere, etc. Your forging and grinding looks really good for the time you have spent. I have been doing this about as long as you, and I am impressed by the kukri's shape. I really wanted to let up after the forging was done, but I have found that the way to work is to take pleasure in the process rather than the outcome. After all, if you are like the rest of us, you will always be working on a knife anyway. If you have "the bug" you will never really be "done." good work, kevin
  16. jake, that is great work. I see what you mean about the "bling." It looks more like a shelf piece than a personal weapon, but it still looks great. The technical level required is impressive. kevin
  17. Honestly, I don't know what type of wood it is. I had a stack of blocks, and I went with this 'cause it looked cool. I'm glad you guys have taken the time to look. I changed the design somewhat based upon feedback from the critique board. I really think that it is closer to what I wanted now than it was when I asked for the input, and I thank everyone who helped me (jim p, geoff, wade, and sandpile... ). I like this one so much that I am going to try and mimic it with slightly wider stock, and maybe a little thicker toward the tip for more momentum. (this was made with 1" 1095, and I have a couple of 6ft bars of 1.24" x .25" 1095). thanks for looking and commenting. kevin
  18. Greetings All, I am posting the "almost done" version of this knife. It is 1095 just over 10" long 2.5 wide 3/16 to 1/8" thick edge quenched in canola tempered at 425 for two 3-hour cycles 1095 guard mokume butt cap I want to thank those who gave me input when I asked on the "Design and Critique" board. I am continually pleased by the willingness of those in this community to help someone with essentially no experience. I can't over state how much this means to me. Any comments, advice, or encouragement are welcomed. You guys have been serving as proxy teachers, although I have a lead from a nice gentleman for some real teaching soon. Thanks, Kevin
  19. JPH, good stuff. your work and teaching are inspirational. one of my colleagues and I were learning of the other's interests. we decided to trade some resources. without actually discussing anything, I took him a book and he brought me a video. guess what, they were both yours. "Frankengrinder" sounds both interesting and intimidating. thanks for the postings. I love to see your work. This is a wonderful art. I really love to spend my time trying, and I love to see the stuff that dedicated people can produce (of course - the general level on this forum is both inspiring and daunting). kevin
  20. jd, that is a beaut of a dagger. I like the guard and handle. the blade is shaped wonderfully, and the pattern contributes without overpowering. some day... if I keep drinking milk (and practice, practice, practice...). thanks for the posting. kevin
  21. gerhard, that is a nice combination of material and textures. It is elegant, in a sturdy and rough way. I like it a lot. It shows that one can communicate skill without going in for anything gaudy. keep them coming. kevin
  22. Sam, Nice hammer. You seem to have a pretty high rate of production going lately. Good stuff. The guy in the vid has the best touch I have ever seen with a power hammer - he must have been using that thing all of your life. Keep up the good work. When is Peter's Valley? I need to get some more formal training (I don't really mind taking a class when I want to learn, I went to college for 11 years). Kevin
  23. Welcome, this is a great place, and it will surely shorten your learning time. These guys notice things I don't, and it helps me to develop. that knife looks like it would work well for disassembling the average deer. good work, keep 'em coming. Kevin
  24. Great knife, and I love the surface treatment. Can you tell us what you did after soaking it in vinegar? (I am playing with soaking in vinegar right now, and I would love any ideas for in the morning when I take it out). thanks and great work, Kevin
  25. sandpile, thanks. I just got a new vise that has more square top and jaws. I couldn't do that with last vise, but I will surely try that trick now. I have a tap and die set I have never used. I think I may give threading a shot. I will probably peen the thing over no matter in the end. I like the idea about the twist clamp a lot. I would not have thought of it, but it seems good. Similarly, I have been using chainsaw files and drill to slot guard, but did not think of dremel cutoff wheel. Geoff - I looked at the file guide, and I can't spend $150. I think I will try to make one soon. The one I make won't be able to withstand grinders, but I my wife would grind me down if I bought the expensive one. thanks again. Forging is great fun, and so much better because you guys are willing to help new people out. Community is a wonderful thing. Kevin
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