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Steve O

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Steve O last won the day on October 1 2018

Steve O had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Joaquin Valley, CA
  • Interests
    Hunting, fishing, camping, smithing, hanging out with the family.

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  1. I’m actually surprised a 20mm didn’t shoot through that anvil! I guess i need to add anvil filled walls to my tinfoil hats for protection against the man.
  2. Top quality frontier Bowie that got jiggy with an Indo- Persian kard, and this is its pup! Very flowing and clean lines, while still screaming hand made. Looks both old and made for a very serious task. Love it.
  3. Personally, since you went for curves, give it curves like you meant it. I’m with Gary I liking more continuity of form between blade and handle design, but if you are going to break it up, then go for broke. I mean that in a good way and constructively. The scales are still very slab like- that’s fine with coffin handles and other handles that have straight lines. You have a center swell, etc going on. SO, give it more three dimensional shaping. The handle currently has just a minor radius to the edges: shape it more. If you were to look down on the top of the handle, spine view, I bet the scales are a consistent thickness, or very close to it, their whole length. Make it flow and look more organic, like a human body. Make it pull in like a waist, flair out like hips, etc. Not only will that give a more finished look, it will potentially lock it into your hand more securely. It most definitely will reduce hot spots when working with it. The good thing is your customer liked what you made them, and you gave them what was requested. But before you make the rest try giving more shape to the next ones, or at least grab a hunk of wood (could be pine even) and work on sculpting it more. Best, Steve
  4. I’d be willing to use steel made out of the top heat for tooling. There’s some chrome, silicon and nickel and enough Mn to make it harden easy enough. Should be tough stuff.
  5. Copy of a M9 bayonet? Not sure about the timing of using acid, but the more consistent the finish before tumbling or blasting, the more consistent the finish when you’re done. Tumbling and blast media won’t hide deep stray scratches, etc.
  6. Jake, unfortunately many modern made anvils are NOT crowned, which is u fortunate. I think that many ew makers didn’t consider it, and others left it off so it would be easier to surface grind after heat treatment. Refflinghaus anvils are still crowned, or at least were a few years ago.
  7. So you bought a Rhino or no? I’m confused, as MorganJade IS the distributor for Rhino anvils, Incandescent is the maker. If not, which mfg did you go with?
  8. Nice job! Yes, refrigerator compressors make both nice vacuum sources and HIGH pressure/low volume air compressors. And you can get them free relatively easily :-)
  9. Dang Jen, great score! Those are rare enough in Europe, finding one in your area is even more amazing! Its like they say about love, this one was meant to be your soulmate ;-) And thanks for sharing, and also joining here. Lots of incredible talent and TRUE sharing of knowledge: peer recognized masters without inflated egos sharing information with each other. I’m NOT one of them, but I do learn from them!
  10. Heck with anvil stand, use it as an anvil. Cut two flat edges so you can forge right up to the edge, then a Couple hundred bucks get it heat treated and go to town!
  11. Jeremy, what size are the cylinders that you have? What is the rod diameter also? VERY cool project by the way, definitely the largest home built hammer I have seen.
  12. Alan, all anvil models he makes are H13, all swage blocks are ductile iron. They considered making more expensive run of swage blocks out of heat treated H13 but when he asked over at iforgeiron.com all responses were that they wouldn’t pay the extra. If you and others wanted them you could see if you could do a group buy and pay up front or at least a deposit. He appears to be a totally stand up guy and quality driven, when someone once recommended that he take a short cut he didn’t like he essentially said “nope, my name will be on that forever”.
  13. The Dayton in the shop is only a 1/3hp, so yours might have more oomph. It takes nothing to stall it out. I’ve used many sanders and only a couple belt grinders, but I will tell you this: once you have used a true high powered/high sfm machine the difference between sander and grinder becomes very self evident. What you thought was “grinding” before becomes somewhat of a joke. Except for when your knuckle goes into a 36 grit belt! This is not to discourage folks from working and buying within their mean, which is very different for all of us. I’m just saying that as Alan said earlier “there are sanders and then there are grinders”.
  14. Another thing to consider with low power machines is the fact that many abrasives will NOT work well with them. You cannot apply enough pressure to get the abrasives to break down and expose new sharp edges on the grains. I’ve experienced this personally at work where we had a 3hp Bader and a smaller Dayton. The little Dayton when used with ceramics and other friable abrasives would cut for a little bit then just glaze up. You almost have to use aluminum oxide and silicon carbide belts vs zirc and ceramic. The Bader of course was unstoppable (literally and figuratively) and the better belts would keep freshening up until they were completely spent.
  15. Well Jeremy, that just might be the heaviest base/anvil I’ve ever seen for a shop built powerhammer! If your hammer still isn’t stable and efficient it definitely WONT be because you skimped on materials!!!!!!!
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