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Steve O

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Everything posted by Steve O

  1. I’m actually surprised a 20mm didn’t shoot through that anvil! I guess i need to add anvil filled walls to my tinfoil hats for protection against the man.
  2. Top quality frontier Bowie that got jiggy with an Indo- Persian kard, and this is its pup! Very flowing and clean lines, while still screaming hand made. Looks both old and made for a very serious task. Love it.
  3. Personally, since you went for curves, give it curves like you meant it. I’m with Gary I liking more continuity of form between blade and handle design, but if you are going to break it up, then go for broke. I mean that in a good way and constructively. The scales are still very slab like- that’s fine with coffin handles and other handles that have straight lines. You have a center swell, etc going on. SO, give it more three dimensional shaping. The handle currently has just a minor radius to the edges: shape it more. If you were to look down on the top of the handle, spine view, I bet
  4. I’d be willing to use steel made out of the top heat for tooling. There’s some chrome, silicon and nickel and enough Mn to make it harden easy enough. Should be tough stuff.
  5. Copy of a M9 bayonet? Not sure about the timing of using acid, but the more consistent the finish before tumbling or blasting, the more consistent the finish when you’re done. Tumbling and blast media won’t hide deep stray scratches, etc.
  6. Jake, unfortunately many modern made anvils are NOT crowned, which is u fortunate. I think that many ew makers didn’t consider it, and others left it off so it would be easier to surface grind after heat treatment. Refflinghaus anvils are still crowned, or at least were a few years ago.
  7. So you bought a Rhino or no? I’m confused, as MorganJade IS the distributor for Rhino anvils, Incandescent is the maker. If not, which mfg did you go with?
  8. Nice job! Yes, refrigerator compressors make both nice vacuum sources and HIGH pressure/low volume air compressors. And you can get them free relatively easily :-)
  9. Dang Jen, great score! Those are rare enough in Europe, finding one in your area is even more amazing! Its like they say about love, this one was meant to be your soulmate ;-) And thanks for sharing, and also joining here. Lots of incredible talent and TRUE sharing of knowledge: peer recognized masters without inflated egos sharing information with each other. I’m NOT one of them, but I do learn from them!
  10. Heck with anvil stand, use it as an anvil. Cut two flat edges so you can forge right up to the edge, then a Couple hundred bucks get it heat treated and go to town!
  11. Jeremy, what size are the cylinders that you have? What is the rod diameter also? VERY cool project by the way, definitely the largest home built hammer I have seen.
  12. Alan, all anvil models he makes are H13, all swage blocks are ductile iron. They considered making more expensive run of swage blocks out of heat treated H13 but when he asked over at iforgeiron.com all responses were that they wouldn’t pay the extra. If you and others wanted them you could see if you could do a group buy and pay up front or at least a deposit. He appears to be a totally stand up guy and quality driven, when someone once recommended that he take a short cut he didn’t like he essentially said “nope, my name will be on that forever”.
  13. The Dayton in the shop is only a 1/3hp, so yours might have more oomph. It takes nothing to stall it out. I’ve used many sanders and only a couple belt grinders, but I will tell you this: once you have used a true high powered/high sfm machine the difference between sander and grinder becomes very self evident. What you thought was “grinding” before becomes somewhat of a joke. Except for when your knuckle goes into a 36 grit belt! This is not to discourage folks from working and buying within their mean, which is very different for all of us. I’m just saying that as Alan said earlier “the
  14. Another thing to consider with low power machines is the fact that many abrasives will NOT work well with them. You cannot apply enough pressure to get the abrasives to break down and expose new sharp edges on the grains. I’ve experienced this personally at work where we had a 3hp Bader and a smaller Dayton. The little Dayton when used with ceramics and other friable abrasives would cut for a little bit then just glaze up. You almost have to use aluminum oxide and silicon carbide belts vs zirc and ceramic. The Bader of course was unstoppable (literally and figuratively) and the better belts wo
  15. Well Jeremy, that just might be the heaviest base/anvil I’ve ever seen for a shop built powerhammer! If your hammer still isn’t stable and efficient it definitely WONT be because you skimped on materials!!!!!!!
  16. I think this is a superb design for a bladesmithing anvil. Can you provide information on the steel used, hardness, etc?
  17. I think it is an older Brooks, they weren’t so thick in the heal as newer ones are. Beautiful anvil, whoever made it. You’re a lucky dog!
  18. Hi Justin, if you don’t get any bites here maybe post it on the tailgate section of iforgeiron.com. Seems to be the only part of that forum not overcome by egos and a$$hats
  19. Ok I reread and had misread one of your posts, you will share the hydraulics between the two machines, use longer hoses, and you have decided to keep the gas engine now, sorry. Make sure the max fluidic pressure is the same or lower for the splitter as for your press cylinder. I saw for some of that companies splitters they ran at 3300psi pump output, but I didn’t see a spec for the model you bought. But I still don’t understand how you are guiding the ram.
  20. I’m trying to envision where you’re going with this but I’m lost on your ram guide. Also, you welded a frame and already had a cylinder, but you bought a complete logsplitter with a gas engine to complete your build. If I understand correctly you then will only be using some valves, and the pump. That seems a tough and expensive way to source them. Although for a complete 27 ton logsplitter, if it’s new, that’s a great price. Sorry if I’m misunderstanding you, Steve
  21. I look forward to seeing it finished, it has an Indo-Persian meets Bowie flavor to it. That trailing point with sharpened clip would be a nasty slasher even in reverse cuts.
  22. Ever get your axe finished? Love to see it. Which edge material did you use? I was a sucky forge welder and preferred using 10xx, it welds easier than anything else to mild. Also 1010 or 1018 beats unknown mild or A36 for ease.
  23. I like the direction you took it after Joel’s input. Our most used general purpose knives in the kitchen are Japanese style petties and honesuki blade patterns, especially those that deviate from the thicker spine for splitting chicken and are designed more for slicing (maybe they have another name but the profile is the same).
  24. Jeremy I think an S guard would look great. Furthermore I’d not change the profile of the blade. I like it, plus keeping it honors the man that started the work.
  25. Good grief Dan, you’ve got some large stones betwixt your knees! Color me envious! Out of curiosity what is the width and diameter of that wheel?
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